DEVIL’S DOME 2790m 9154′
The highest peak of the Devil’s Range is the most impressive one visible from the Drinnon Lake approach, and has no easy route.
1. South Face, Southeast Ridge. There is snow at the base of the south face.
Pitch 1. Start up a layback and a steep slippery crack (Class 5.0). After one rope length, move onto the southeast ridge on firm rock, above the notch in the southeast ridge.
Pitch 2. Ascend a corner with several wide cracks, and then go right onto a wide ledge (5.3).
Pitch 3. Ascend two sloping ledges, and move back onto the ridge. Then go up a chute (5.3).
Pitch 4. Go up thin climbing to a ledge (5.3).
Pitch 5. Go left to turn the smooth wall, then up (5.5).
Pitch 6. Steep. Scrambling leads to the summit. Four hours up.
Descend by three rappels and climbing down. Use angles, small angles, Leepers, thin blades, slings and chocks on the solid rock. Be careful of the black lichen, which is slippery when wet. (II,5.5,s,*). July 18, 1971.
2. Snow Couloir, South Face. Ascend the snow couloir between Devil’s Dome and False Devil Dome, to the left of the south face, to the notch at the top. Traverse right on a broken ledge system, and climb two pitches up a “gully-chimney” with very loose rock. At the top of the second pitch, ascend 5 metres up a crack under and around an overhang (Class 5.6). There is easier rock to scramble to the summit.
The route is well protected with chocks and runners. Descend by two rappels west of the route. Not recommended. (II,5.6,s).
3. South Face The route is in a crack system up the middle of the south face, which must be entered indirectly.
Pitch 1. Start from a large rectangular block, climb over a slight overhang (soft, rounded, yellow rock) into a dihedral using an awkward layback, and go up its right-hand wall. There are thin, breakable, blade-like flakes at the top (sling; Class 5.7). Then traverse up to the right into the crack system.
Pitch 2. Easy climbing on rock.
Pitch 3. The face is inset on this pitch, with a chimney on either side. Start in the right-hand chimney and do a delicate traverse to the left-hand one, to easier climbing and grassy ledges above. Belay 6 meters above the ledges.
Pitch 4. Very good climbing, to a narrow stance on a sloping slab below a prominent overhang. 50 meters.
Pitch 5. Climb the overhang using a crack and hole under it (very tight). A chockstone lodged at the lip of the overhang provides a hold. The next 3 meters are the crux (Class 5.8). Belay. There may be easier climbing to the right on the fourth pitch. 12 meters.
Pitch 6. Easy rock to the summit ridge. It is well protected by chocks and runners. (II,5.8,s,*), July 31, 1977. This route has been affected by rockfall near the bottom (much cleaning).
4. Northwest Face (Running with the Devil). There are two pitches, Class 5.9 and 85m long, done during the west-to-east traverse of the Devil’s Range.
FRA Nelson Rocha, Cam Shute, July 27, 2014.
DEVILS DOME Record of Summit Register by Kim Kratky
Compiled December 1988 by Kim Kratky from the original document.
Devil’s Dome, 9100′ highest peak in Devil’s Range
FIRST ASCENT–July 1971; Bob Dean and Howie Ridge; via south-east ridge from camp in Drinnon Pass; Kootenay Mtn. Club; (first attempted in 1970 but turned back 1/2 way up).
SECOND ASCENT–Sept. 3, 1973; Gordon Stein, Peter Wood, and Howie Ridge; via Route 1 from camp at lake South of the summit; interesting due to snow and ice; rappelled off in darkness; Kootenay Mountaineering Club.
THIRD ASCENT–June 24, 1974; Gary Bruce and Scott Rowed.
FOURTH ASCENT–July 11, 1975; Ian Hamilton, Bert Port, and Route 1 with harder variations on the south.
FIFTH ASCENT–August 15, 1975; Peter Wood (KMC) & Scott Rowed (KMC new member); by way of Route 1 with easier variations to the East; 3 1/2 hours from notch in East ridge + 2 hours from camp at Gwillim Lakes; cold, cloudy day with strong winds at times; dry!
SIXTH ASCENT–July 30, 1977; Peter Koedt, Jara Popelkova; via boulder pile gulley-chimney just south-east of the west ridge; literally a pile of shit; not hard but not recommendable; ca. 5.5 and 5.6 direct near top.
SEVENTH ASCENT–July 31, 1977; Peter Koedt, Jara Popelkova, Gunther Offermann, Elena Offermann; South Face; nice route; 5.7–5.8; 6 pitches.
EIGHTH ASCENT–August 1, 1982; Ian Hamilton, Dave Adams, and Peter Wood–KMC; 7:30 am–12:30 pm; from camp by lake via Route 1; hail and rain for 15 min. near the top of 2nd pitch; black lichen became unpleasantly greasy; clouds & thunder around while writing this; no lightning so far.
NINTH ASCENT–August 6, 1982; Jim Jones, Dan Offin; via the S.E. ridge; good for a few larfs; wristwatch stopped working on the way up so we “trashed it” on the summit; enclosed find remains.
TENTH ASCENT–August 1, 1983; Leo Jansma & Mike Brewster, KMC Hiking Camp ’83; via S.E. ridge; one good pitch; 3 1/2 hours from the snow below notch; welcome Valhalla Wilderness Park.
ELEVENTH ASCENT–July 1, 1985; Chris & Peter McIver; via SE ridge; sunny.
TWELFTH ASCENT–August 8, 1986; Cliff McCluskey, Tim Evans, Craig McCallum, John Cameron; via SE ridge & SE gulley; great day.
THIRTEENTH ASCENT–August 24, 1986; Jeff Eppler & Bob Walton; via SE ridge; “the 51st classic climb”; it’s snowing we gotta run!!
FOURTEENTH ASCENT–September 7, 1986; Paul Allen, Robyn Laytham, Liz Stanich, Rod Beauprie (our first tech. ascent–Liz & Rod); beautiful weather; grand vista; an enjoyable 5.6 climb.
FIFTEENTH ASCENT–August 9, 1987; Dick Erickson, Tom Dabrowski, Bob Popielarszyk, Jim Truitt, Lou Demaria, Inter-Mountain Alpine Club, Richland, Wash.; on a traverse of Devil’s Range; Big thunder & lightning to the north; will have to leave quick.
SIXTEENTH ASCENT–September 20, 1987; Peter McIver, Kim Kratky, Steve Horvath; via standard route; a fine, sunny autumn day.”
The final entry was added as part of the new summit record put in when the original was removed because of damage by rodents and water, on September 20, 1987.
Kim Kratky
