FALSE DEVIL’S DOME (DARK PRINCE) 2730m 8957′
A notch separates Devil’s Dome and the false one, which is just west of Devil’s Dome.
1. South Face, South Ridge. Climb part way up the snow gully between Devil’s Dome and the False Dome, and traverse up from right to left on slabs of the lower east face below the notch. Gain the south ridge and follow it to the top. There is mostly Class 4 and short sections of Class 5 climbing on the ridge. (II,5.5,s).
FRA Ian Hamilton, Bert Port, Howie Ridge, 1975.
2. Southeast Face (Exorcist’s Diedre). There are two gigantic, slanting, left-opening dihedrals on the southeast face. Use the right-hand one, and the route is 6 pitches long, mostly on the left-hand wall. The Class 5.7 moves occur on the second pitch, which is difficult to protect, with bottoming grooves. Above an overhang, there is a steeper wall with a shallow, water-worn groove. Above this point, it is (II,5.7,s). 7/8/1982.
3. Southeast Face. Face north, and take the buttress left of the left dihedral (see Route 2). Scramble on grassy ledges. The second pitch goes into the left dihedral; follow the dihedral through well-jammed chock-stones (Class 3) to the summit ridge and scramble to the This is the easiest route. (I,5.1,s).
FRA Jim Gilman, Brian McKay, Pat Post, early 1980s.
4. Northwest Ridge. Done during the 2014 traverse (refer to Traverses of Devil’s Range)
5. West Face (Son of a Beast). This route is on the right side of the west face in a right-facing corner (right of Son of Odin). Flakes, chicken heads and many long, clean cracks. The highlight is a massive fin halfway up. Eight pitches. (III,5.10).
FRA David Lussier, Stephen Senecal, 8/25,
The descent was down a short scramble on the south ridge, and a 60 meter rappel from an old station.
