MOUNT CHIPMAN 2562m 8406′
This castellated summit has good rock, and since the park boundaries were changed (the park used to form a square) it lies in the northeast part of Kokanee Park. The altitude given is a surveyed value. On the 1:50,000 scale map, it is 2510 meters.
Difficulty: C/D3
Elevation gain: 3300
Key elevations: Park 5100′, Summit 8400
Distance:
Time: 8 hours
Season: early July through September
Access: Difficult
Map: 82F/14 Slocan.
West Face, South Ridge.
Drive: From Highway 31A
0.0 Turn south on the Keen Creek road
7.4 km (4.6 miles) Just past a big mine dump, turn left onto Ben Hur Creek FSR. At 7.6km, 200 meters, go straight. Zero odometer.
l.6km Turn right (sign, Ben Hur m/1). Follow it through several cut blocks to its end at about 5km – 1550m, 5100 feet; (high clearance, four-wheel drive).
Route: Follow the creek on the west bank, with a cut block, open timber, bushwhacking and mossy boulder fields. Continue over a buttress west of a lake to the alplands west of Mount Chipman. Ascend steep snow on Chipman’s west face to the south ridge, which is Class 3 on good granite. A cairn was found on the summit. The time was 7.5 hours (round trip) but the party was fast. (III,3,s).
FRA Kim Kratky, Fred Thiessen, 20/6/1997.
The north ridge (pinnacles) may offer good climbing.
CHIPMAN 2562 m. (surveyed elevation) by Kim Kratky
Car approach: drive Highway 31A to Keen Creek turnoff, 7.6 km. west of Kaslo. Follow Keen Creek road for 8 km. to a big mine dump. Just past the dump turn left onto Ben Hur mainline road. At 200 m., go straight. At. km. 1.6 turn right (signposted “Ben Hur m/l”). Follow the road through several cut blocks to its end at around km. 5 (5100′). The Ben Hur section needs a 4WD vehicle for its upper sections (steep).
Approach on foot: Leaving the vehicle at the end of Ben Hur road, follow the creek S. along its W. bank through a cut block which quickly gives way to open timber and fairly unpleasant bushwhacking (slide alder, devil’s club, rhododendron). Traverse unpleasant mossy boulder fields and continue over a buttress W of a lake to reach the alps W. of Chipman (about 3 hrs. from the car).
The climb: From the basin, ascend moderately steep snow on Chipman’s west face to reach the south ridge (1100′). Then follow good granite on the class 3 south ridge to the summit without difficulty (1 hr. from basin). A cairn was found on the summit. (note, Earle: this peak may have been climbed by John Carter or Steve Kent of BC Parks).
Return via ascent route. Later in the season, the snow of the west face would give way to rock; thus, a different route might be more practical. However, we’re not talking about anything difficult, here. We returned to the truck by traversing NW from the basin at 962-238 and then descending a snow tongue parallel to the ridge NE of Satisfaction Pk. This was somewhat better than the approach, but there was still considerable bushwhacking farther down. Return was made from the summit in 2 hrs. 50 min. The total day was 7 hours. 30 min.
Pinnacles along the ridge N. of the summit and subsidiary peaklets to the N. would seem to offer good rock climbing. Access may be better from cut blocks located between Deer and Ben Hur Creeks along the long forested ridge extending N. from the summit.
SUMMARY: Mt. Chipman 2562 m
1. West face/south ridge (II,3,s) First ascent unknown. From end of logging road on Ben Hur Creek, follow the valley south to alps west of the peak. Ascend snow of west face to the south ridge and follow easy rock north to the summit. 4hrs. up. 7 1/2 hrs. for total trip.
