The summits on the rim of Kokanee Glacier, from The Pyramid to Kokanee Peak, are part of a large massif which supports the glacier. The summits are easy to climb. Maps: 82F/14 Slocan, south border and Map 82F/11 Kokanee Peak.
APPROACHES TO KOKANEE GLACIER
1. Keyhole. Kokanee Glacier is most often reached from the southwest via the unmarked trail to The Keyhole. The trail branches off from the Kokanee Lake-Gibson Lake (parking lot) trail at the cascades – the high point of the trail. It ascends to a sharp notch, The Keyhole (2730m) just northwest of Esmeralda Peak, 3.5 hours from Gibson Lake.
2. Slocan Chief Cabin. The “best and safest” route is the trail behind the terminal moraine that leads left under The Battleship to the left (east) side of The Battleship (see Kokanee Glacier Trail post).
There are also two routes up the right (west) side of The Battleship, the left hand trail on rock and the right hand on snow, close to each other.
3. Kokanee Peak / Gray’s Peak col
4. Joker Lakes and Coffee Pass
The principal summits are listed below from northwest to southeast.
THE BATTLESHIP 2610m 8563′
Located on the northwest margin of Kokanee Glacier.
Approach by trail from the cabin. The “best and safest” route is the trail behind the terminal moraine which leads left under The Battleship to the left (east) side of The Battleship. There are also two routes up the right (west) side of The Battleship, the left-hand trail on rock and the right-hand on snow, close to each other.
The names of The Battleship and The Giant’s Kneecap may have been interchanged on the map, because The Battleship resembles a knee, and The Giant’s Kneecap distinctly looks like a World War I battleship. (Bob Dean)
GIANT’S KNEECAP 2760m 9055′
Giant’s Kneecap is a spur into the glacier, north of Esmeralda Peak. It is prominent from the Keyhole. The south ridge is a scramble on good rock.
The glacier is best approached from the lateral moraine between The Battleship and the Giant’s Kneecap. Glacier (III,5.0,s). Richard Wareing, Parker Williams, August 29, 1959.
1. West Face, South Ridge. The south end of the west face is easy to approach from The Keyhole over snow above the main part of Kokanee. Use either side of the south ridge in places, and the climb is a short scramble. Glacier (I,3,s). FA unknown.
2. North Ridge. Approach from the north up Keen Creek and Joker Lakes. The north ridge rises out of the ice of Kokanee Glacier and is an “exacting climb”. Time on the ridge, 1.5 hours. The difficulty rating, below, is a guess.
3. West The first ascent party approached from The Battleship to the west face almost directly below the south summit (which appears to be the highest point from below). The route is to the left (north) of a prominent inside corner which cuts the face to the right (south) of the south summit. Ascend through a grey section of rock via cracks leading first slightly left, then back right onto the yellow slabs. From here, ascend the slabs to the summit always keeping left of the inside corner and right of what appear to be loose blocks. Traverse along the ridge to the true summit (north). An enjoyable route. Glacier (II,5.0,s).
FRA Gordon Coots, Mike Wisnicki, 08/1966.
THE PYRAMID (Mt. KITCHENER) 2760m 9055′
Located on the northwest end of the ridge, west of the Giant’s Knee Cap.
From Kokanee Pass, hike east up forest and alplands. Climb the west ridge, keeping to the right (max. Class 3-4) where the rock is best. The party descended the north ridge (Class 3).
FA probably by prospectors or miners, or in the 1920s, when the early climbers ascended Cond Peak.
UNNAMED 2790m 9154′
A double summit supporting a transmission tower.
UNNAMED 2770m 9088′
This summit, just northwest of The Keyhole (pass), is a walk.
ESMERALDA PEAK 2790m 9154′
The Keyhole (pass) is just north of Esmeralda Peak.
FFA Peggy Carter and Ada Levy (New Denver, B. C.) were the first women to climb this mountain, probably in the late 1920s.
1. FA The summit is easily reached from The Keyhole, on snow and rock by climbing up the rock above the Keyhole.
2. South Ridge. This short, easy ridge is used to traverse Esmeralda Peak to Cond Peak. It is easiest to descend the east face to the snow after using the south ridge a short
3. Southwest Ridge. The pinnacled southwest ridge is a good climb with good Class 5.0 rock. Follow the trail to The Keyhole; when by the old mine workings cross across the ridge to the southeast side. Bypass difficulties on the right side. Exposed. (III,5.0).
FRA Gerry Brown, John Carter, Ian Hamilton, early 1960s.
4. South Face. Go up grassy avalanche paths east of the southwest ridge, parallelling the southwest ridge, to the foot of the south face. One easy Class 5 pitch at the bottom puts one on good granite, scrambling, to the top. (II,5.2,s).
FRA Barend Bredenkamp, Steven Horvath, 08/1988.
Direct Access to the Esmeralda-Cond Ridge
Climb the spur which is in line directly with the view from the parking lot at Gibson Lake, Class 3 (not the left skyline). It leads to the ridge between the two peaks, and the base of the spur lies above the highest mineshaft of the Molly Gibson Mine about 600 meters above the lake. Use the Kokanee Lake trail (to Slocan Chief cabin) and branch off when high on the hillside on a moraine.
FRA Rick Askew, John Steed, 1969
COND PEAK 2800m 9186′
Cond Peak is the highest point in the park, in the south above Kokanee and Gibson Lakes. It is probably the summit (overestimated at 9400 feet) ascended by a Survey party in 1893-1895. Kane Peak is nearly as high.
1. South Ridge. The short, easy south ridge is easily reached over the glacier (or the west ridge) from the Keyhole, or the south ridge of Esmeralda. Another way is given in “Direct Access to the Esmeralda- Cond Ridge”, before Cond Peak.
FA Cond Peak was ascended by fifteen members of the Kokanee M. C., including Mrs. C. H. Gansner and Wm. McLeary, late August 1921, route not stated.
2. Southwest Slopes. This is a good descent route on the southwest side of the Cond-Kokanee ridge (early season) on snow for nearly 600 meters. Then bear right (west) to avoid bush There is a little bush-whacking to gain the trail just above switchbacks (also good for ascent).
KOKANEE PEAK 2790m 9154′
Southeast of Cond Peak, and north of Grays Peak.
1. East Slopes. Gain the Grays-Kokanee col. (The approach is given under Grays Peak. In the early season, Kokanee Peak is easily climbed on snow from Grays Peak in fifty minutes).
Traverse the eastern rock slabs and snow slopes below the ridge to the steeper snow slopes (edge of Kokanee Glacier) east of the top, and ascend. The top is easily gained via Kokanee Glacier from The Keyhole, around Cond Peak, in the summer. (III,2,s).
FA unknown.
2. South Ridge. The south ridge can be gained by climbing the west face on a sort of buttress to the right of the couloir (Class 4 at bottom, steep rubble, goat pastures in middle, blocky granite in upper section), and then up the south ridge (Class 5.0). (III,5.0,s). FRA Steve Horvath, 1975.
Descend directly from the Grays-Kokanee col to Gibson Lake with some bushwhacking. Descent from Cond Peak to the southwest and then west (between Cond and Kokanee; see Cond Peak) presents no problem, but cliffs are present directly below the alps below Kokanee Peak. One may traverse northwest along the alps above the cliffs to Route 2 of Cond Peak, but it is much longer.
GRAYS PEAK (HAYSTACK) 2760m 9055′
Located two kilometres east-northeast of Gibson Lake, on the south end of the ridge. This peak is a favourite ascent of local climbers, especially early in the season when snow covers all the low bush. The south summit (invisible from Gibson Lake) is the higher. A glacier still clings to its eastern slopes.
This is the mountain on the Kokanee beer label – accurate except reversed.
1. North Ridge. Follow the trail from the parking lot at Gibson Lake until the last sign to the trail on the upper road. Continue on the road a short distance to the mine portal and mine tailings pile. Enter the woods above and behind the portal and travel through light brush following a small water course on its left side. The brush gives way to open grassy slopes beneath some rocky bluffs. Climb up and over the bluffs and work your way straight up until you reach a well-defined gully with a stream entering from the left of your line of travel. At this point look up to your right and Grays Peak is visible with an edge of the glacier showing. Traverse meadows to the right (southeast; northwest goes toward Cond Peak) and sidehill left up to a ridge which separates you from the access pass. The ridge can be penetrated in two spots (vegetation). Quite low on the ridge there is an obvious grassy ramp used by goats. When you reach the ridge, the route to the low pass (col) between Kokanee Peak and Grays Peak is obvious. Keep high, and scramble over a rocky rib to gain the pass. From this point, it is 45 minutes on snow to the top. (But on return, it is difficult to find one’s way down to the mine )
It is wise to carry a rope and crampons, as well as an ice ax, because the top of the final snow slope is very steep.
One can also use Route 2 of Cond Peak, and bear southeast along the alps above the cliffs, but it is quite long (Kokanee Peak descent route, alternate).
Glacier (III,4,s).
FA unknown.
See Kokanee Peak for the descent (from the Grays-Kokanee col) and also the alternate below.
Alternate Approach (or Descent)
The above approach is inefficient because one must traverse southeast (right), and then traverse northwest on the return (long) if one does not wish to bushwhack down. In early season, when there is snow, it is better to take a more direct line (roughly the line followed by the bushwhack down, see Kokanee Peak). Take the old steep trail (on the hillside at the parking lot at Gibson Lake) until it meets the road. Follow the road uphill and around a switchback until the road crosses a small stream. Head uphill through the bush keeping to the right of the stream, and follow the openings up to the treeline at about 2130m (7000 feet) and then to the col.
A trail cut along this route would save much effort.
2. Southwest Ridge of North Summit. Approach as for Route 1, but traverse right to the southwest ridge. Ascend the Class 4 ridge and avoid some of the gendarmes by moving right. The long ridge arrives at the north summit of Grays Peak and the regular route to the higher south summit is followed (snow, glacier). Glacier (III,4,s).
FRA David Adams, Knut Langballe, about 1973.
3. Southeast Face. Climbed on a traverse from the pointed summit of Grays Peak (see below).
GRAYS PEAK (pointed summit)
The pointed summit of Grays Peak lies south of the main summit, on the ridge between Kokanee and Coffee Creeks. (The main summit is not visible from Gibson Lake.) It is the pointed summit 400-500m north of the most southeastern, flat-topped summit, with a notch between the two.
1. West Approach the same way as for the southeastern flat-topped summit (below), from the west, about 1.6 km (1 mile) on the road, below Gibson Lake, and bushwhack east up a creek bed. The summit is the left-hand of two towers.
Three roped leads (a ramp, a very easy lead, and a thin wall) give way to a very few hundred meters of scrambling. Then climb an overhanging crack and several leads of Class 4 rock to the summit. The rock is firm.
The descent used seven 20-meter rappels, and there is a virtually bush-free route on the return. (III,5.4,s). 18/10/1980.
2. East Rib. Approach via Coffee Creek (road washed out, trail very overgrown – see post) and the four-wheel drive road to the Ministry of Forests recreational site. Hike the Coffee Creek trail for 1 hour, and then leave the trail and diagonal west through timber to reach the alpine zone east of Grays Peak in about 3 hours.
Cross a small glacier and climb the east rib of the peak (S, or SE, of Grays Peak) on excellent granitic rock. The rib is a series of steps, Class 3 and easy Class 4, about 8 hours from the car.
Traverse the ridge north to the main summit of Grays Peak (Class 3-4) using one 25-meter rappel. Scramble up the southeast face of Grays Peak, traverse it and descend the regular route to Gibson Lake and the parking lot, 13 hours. Glacier (III,4,A0,s).
4/09/1987.
GRAYS PEAK (most southeastern summit)
The most southeastern of the four summits of Grays Peak appears to be flat-topped. All the summits are visible from the city of Nelson.
1. Southwest Face. Start from the road 1.6 km (1 mile) below Gibson Lake, and proceed up the steep hillside left of a creek. Reach the upper of two small basins (the lower basin is wooded) and ascend the centre of the face.
Pitch 1. Climb off the snow, on rounded and grooved slabs, friction.
Pitch 2. Ascend a rotten gully left of a cliff band, easier than Pitch 1.
Pitch 3. Free climbing up ramps and ledges.
Pitch 4. Climb a 25m wall, with a waterfall on the left (from a snow- patch). It becomes a nearly vertical inside corner, (5.7).
Pitch 5. Cross the snow patch and go left onto a big block (easy). Pitch 6. Go up a series of ledges and gullies (easy).
Pitch 7. Ascend the final wall, 15 vertical meters, difficult, and emerge just west of the southeast summit. The ridge here is only 0.3 meters thick. (III,5.7,s).
Mid-June 1979.
Using an alternate route (free climbing down), one can glissade towards Kokanee Creek on the descent. Seven hours return to the car.
UNNAMED 2485m 8156′
Coordinates 919-059, west of Silvertip Lake.
Park at km 14.7 on the Gibson Lake road, near a spot where several small streams cross, and ascend just downhill from the lowest stream.
Bushy and Class 4 by the southwest face after passing through a notch at 908-055, west-southwest of the summit. (III,4,s).
FRA Paul and Scott Allen, Kim Kratky, 18/06/2009.
KOKANEE RIDGE by Kim Kratky
Kokanee Ridge Esmralda to Kokanee Pk So, I thought I would track down my two trips to Kokanee Pk. and fill you in on this very easy route. My first occasion was on June 23, 1974, when Janice and I went with a huge pack of KMC people, some of whom I believe left the main group to climb pinnacles on the SW ridge of Esmeralda. The latter group was probably John Carter, Howie Ridge, Bert Port, Iaine Martin, and maybe Knut Langballe.
Anyway, our group parked before reaching the Gibson Lake car park and ascended snow tongues to a col N. of Grays Pk. I wouldn’t recommend this approach later in the year–bushwhacking could be unpleasant. After climbing Grays, Bob Dean, Janice, Libby Martin, and I strolled over to Kokanee Pk. from the summit of Grays Pk. in 50 min. It. was just an easy snow walk. Apparently, we returned to the Kokanee-Grays col and descended directly to Gibson Lake. Details of this part are sketchy–hey, better to say, “non-existent.”
The second outing was on July 25th, 1976, just before my first climbing camp. On this outing were Janice, Peggy LePage, Gordon Frank, and some young guy named Brian Bigness who was surprised to see himself rapidly outdistanced by Peggy and Janice. We followed the standard route to the Keyhole, and then subdued (I’m being sarcastic, here) that unnamed 9,100′ bump N. of Esmeralda, Esmeralda, and Cond. We then plodded over to Kokanee Pk. via the glacier, just a snow walk once again. We next descended S. on snow to the col between Grays and Kokanee and continued SW via snow and a moderate bushwhack right to Gibson Lake. These are the only times I have: departed at 9:20 am; reached the Keyhole at 12:20 pm; and returned to cars by 4:30 pm. So, the total loop took a leisurely seven hours; I can’t imagine that we were going really fast.
These easy trips have been, and are, frequently made, so I certainly would be embarrassed to claim many firsts.
There are two more things to note. I seem to remember that one can get into cliff bands descending directly to Gibson Lake from the Kokanee Pk.-Esmeralda Pk. area. Secondly, I think the usual approach to the Grays Pk.-Kokanee Pk. col is via an alpine traverse from the Keyhole trail.
Kim Kratky
