FRIGG TOWER 2620m 8596′
From Highway 23, south of Galena Bay, one has a good view of this spectacular flat-topped tower. The name is a proper one (rather than improper), since Frigg was a goddess, the wife of Odin (note Frigg Glacier on the map).
1. Northeast Buttress (Frigg Newton). Follow the south side of Odin Creek from the road at Pingston Creek, and go up to the base of the tower, 6 hours. Make camp.
The bushwhacking continues part way up the buttress. Much of the northeast buttress is Class 3 until the final headwall. A Class 5.8 pitch is followed by some Class 4 rock. A Class 5.9 pitch on the headwall leads to a long 5.65.7 pitch to the summit. (II,5.9).
Mel Fish, Scott Flavelle, David Lane, August 9, 1984.
2. Northwest Buttress. This is the rappel route to the ridge west of the tower. It is by far the fastest way off, either one 50-meter (165-foot) rappel or two rappels. The northwest buttress is two short pitches of Class 5.95.10 on the ascent. A bolt has been placed to reinforce the rappel piton in the middle of the route.
Robert and Mavis Bauman, Ron Blaue. This appears to be their way of descent.
3. Southwest Face. This route is 120 meters (400 feet; 6 short pitches) in a series of crack systems on the southwest face, Class 5.7 at the most. (II,5.7).
Rob Dalinghaus, Rob Whelan, 17/8/1991.
One may combine the lower three pitches of the south face route (southwest face?) with the upper four pitches of the southeast ridge (7 pitches, Class 5.9), a nice, direct lime.
David Jones, Joie Seagram, 8/2005.
4. Southeast Ridge. From Mooncastle Lake, the climb starts in a treed area above slabs. The first 6 pitches follow the ridge proper, bypassing difficult sections on the north side. The last 4 pitches go up the summit headwall, using diagonal ledges to bypass blank sections. A long day; much route finding on good rock, sustained Class 5.85.9 at the top. (III,5.9,**).
Robert and Mavis Bauman, 8/1996.
Descend by one (or two short) rappel on the northwest side (50m) to the notch. Pass over the unnamed bump to the west and sidehill over steep snow and heather back to Mooncastle Lake.
