MOUNT ODIN 2970m 9744′
Mount Odin, the highest peak of the group, is hidden from view from the logging roads except near Odin Creek. East of the ice tongue of its east glacier (Frigg Glacier) lies Mooncastle Lake, under Frigg Tower.
1. East Glacier, East Ridge. From a lake to the south in the valley of Ledge Creek, go over the ridge to steep ice east of the summit. The party approached from Peters Lake. The east ridge itself is easy. Rated Class 4 because of the glacier. Ice, Glacier (II,4,s.). 1928.
Alternate approach: Start from a helicopter camp above the Odin Creek headwall. From the Odin-Saturday col (glacier), descend a steep snow and ice couloir (one of the easternmost; one rappel) and traverse open country south of Mount Odin. Attain Frigg Glacier very easily just west of the western set of “shark’s teeth” (see Mount Grady also for more details). Twelve hours round trip. There is also a steep, icy snow gully leading up to Frigg Glacier.
Alternate approach: From a helicopter camp at beautiful Mooncastle Lake under the south side of Frigg Tower, ascend the north margin of Frigg Glacier to the east ridge; four hours up. Ice, Glacier (II,4,s). August 9, 1980.
Leon Blumer and Dan Robertson also reached Mooncastle Lake, on foot, on September 13, 1981.
UNNAMED (HUGIN) 2780m 9121′
Located 2.4 kilometres ESE of Mount Odin, south of Frigg Glacier. Its rock faces are black. A cairn with no record was found in 1980 (on Mt. Hugin, the northwestern summit). It is just east of the col (214-997) 1.5 kilometres east-southeast of Mount Odin.
The names Mount Hugin and Mount Munin (0.5 km southeast, lower, a double summit) are proposed for this double summit (1999).
These two were the ravens that sat on Odin’s shoulders on his throne in Valhalla. When Odin needed to know what was going on in the world, he sent his ravens out to gather the information.
MOUNT HUGIN 2780m 9121′
1. North Slopes. Start from Mooncastle Lake and proceed over Frigg Glacier (see Mount Odin). Cross the bergschrund on the north side of the mountain and climb to the summit rock. The last 15m are very exposed but easy; 2.5 hours. Ice, Glacier (II,4,s).
LA, KK, PT, August 10, 1980.
2. Northeast Ridge. From camp at Mooncastle Lake, cross Frigg Glacier and gain the lowest point of rock. The northeast ridge is 16 pitches with some snow, much Class 4 with some Class 5.45.6 sections. Scenic. Ice, Glacier (III,5.6,s,*).
Steven Horvath, Hamish Mutch, July 31, 1999.
Descend on snow, then via Frigg Glacier.
3. West Ridge. Mount Hugin is easily reached by the west ridge after gaining the col east-southeast of Mount Odin (214-997; see Mt. Odin).
FRA by Doug Brown, Diane Colwell, Maurice St. Jorre, Sandra McGuinness, and David Shadbolt, 27/7/2003.
MOUNT MUNIN 2770m 9088′
1. Northeast Rib (Nowhere Buttress; Mt. Munin). This buttress is the mirror image of the northeast ridge of adjoining Mount Hugin. From a small lake one-kilometre southwest of Mooncastle Lake, make a very difficult approach by descending 300 meters to cross a stream. The first four pitches are a series of small roofs and overhangs, back and forth through them (rope drag); the following 8 pitches are easier. The climb ends on easy terrain just below the southeast ridge (unrope). The party of two did not go to the summit. Rappelling is the easiest return, down the rib if one has enough equipment, but the return was by rappel to the next valley south, adjoining the approach to Mount Grady. Go to the upper edge of Frigg Glacier, and descend the glacier (which resulted in a bivouac). (IV,5.6). This rating ignores the return on the glacier.
Bruce Fairley, Hamish Mutch, August 2005.
