SATURDAY PEAK 2730m 8957′
Saturday Peak is 1.8 km WSW of Mount Odin. The KMC climbed two routes on it during the 1973 KMC climbing camp. Between 1963 and 1965, members of the Geological Survey of Canada were active in this area and may have done some unrecorded ascents.
Map 82L/9 Gates Creek..
1. West Ridge. This peak is easily reached over Odin Glacier from a helicopter camp above the Odin Creek headwall. The west ridge is Class 3-4, and begins where the glacier touches the ridge. Ice retreat has altered the beginning of this route.
FA July 28, 1973. See Route 2.
2. East to West Traverse. Ascend Odin Glacier to the notch east of the first significant outcropping on the ridge. The second lead, on a buttress, has a fixed aluminum piton (Class 5.7 straight over), but it is easier to detour to the left on slabs (Class 5.3). Much of the climbing is Class 4 on good gneiss (lichen encrusted), and there is one rappel to a notch. Return via a notch near the summit where the glacier touches the ridge (Route 1). An enjoyable route. Glacier (II,5.3,A0,s).
DK, BMacL, August 4, 1973.
3. South Ridge. Cross over the west ridge of Saturday Peak and enter the basin below the southwest face. Gain the south ridge via a small buttress on the left (north) side of a fairly rotten gully (two pitches, to Class 5.6), and easier ground goes to the south ridge proper. Scramble to the summit headwall, and two pitches on beautiful, clean white rock (Class 5.6) go to the summit. Glacier (III,5.6,s,*).
Paul Allen, Steve Horvath, 3/8/1990.
Variation: One can gain the ridge by crossing the bergschrund of the glacier on the southeast side, and then up very steep snow (exposed) to reach a rib of rock. Above is Class 4 rock to reach the upper ridge. Ice, Glacier.
Doug Brown, Sandra McGuinness, David Shadbolt, 30/7/2003.
Camp was at a lake below Mount Gunnarsen (163-993). Mosquitos!
