Until relatively recently, the existence of this group of interesting peaks was hardly suspected. When viewing N from peaks of the main Purcell uplift, the eyes of early mountaineer-explorers passed over the intervening area to the higher and more spectacular Bugaboo spires, while conversely, from Bugaboo summits it was the giants around Mt Farnham which commanded attention. In the early decades of the century, the Starbirds were lumped with· other poorly-known groups in the area into an ill-defined “Horsethief Group”.
Important too in this neglect was the lack of adequate access trails. So, as late as 1968, only a few summits at the NW edge of the group, along with Mt Sally Serena in the central part, had been ascended. With the construction of a good logging road on Forster Creek in the late ’60s, everything changed and now these striking peaks receive perhaps more than their share of attention.
Forming the local watershed between Forster Creek and Horsethief Creek and its W tributary, Stockdale Creek, Starbird Ridge swings from Forster Pass (7450) S and E in a great arc, finally petering out in foothills some 10 mi due W of Radium Hot Springs. Three important secondary ridges emanate from the main ridge, carrying N toward Forster Creek the Scotch, Welsh, and Irish Peaks, W to E respectively. At the heads of these spur ridges are found the highest peaks of the region, Mts Guendolin, North Star, and Sally Serena.
Catamount and North Star Glaciers constitute the bulk of the glaciation in the range, but several smaller glaciers are located in the basins of Welsh and Irish Creeks. While Catamount Glacier is more extensive, North Star Glacier, which flows between the Scotch and Welsh Peaks, is steeper and more heavily crevassed. As the range is part of a large granite intrusive, the peaks afford interesting climbing on generally sound rock. Especially in the vicinity of Mt Sally Serena rise numerous granitic pinnacles which, while lower, resemble those in the Bugaboo and Vowell Groups. The minor peaks E of the Sally Serena massif are sedimentary. Although all of the peaks in the range have now been ascended, there remains some scope for new routes.
ACCESS. The Forster Creek road is no longer passable to cars beyond Irish Creek (Mile 22) but remains an excellent trail as far as the 29-mile mark (see chap intro). For the upper part of the Irish Creek valley, go up through the logged area to the point where the creek leaves the forest where a trail starts. Initially following the true right (E) bank of the stream, the trail soon crosses on a felled log and continues to Tara Lake (6100; 2 mi and 2 hr from the road). The additional mile and 1000′ to Shannon Lake (7200) at treeline require 2 hr more (very fragile campsite).
A mile beyond Irish Creek, Welsh Creek next enters from the S. A very rough branch road goes up this creek to within a mile of the lowest lake where a good campsite is located on W shore. A rudimentary trail exists up the headwall above the access road on the true left (W) bank of Welsh Creek, going up the talus above the lowest lake to the upper lake (Aberystwyth, 7600; most NW of lakes in the valley) where fragile campsites are found at the S end; about 3 mi from Forster Creek. From the end of the main road at Mile 29, the tongue of North Star Glacier can be reached in 3½ hr, while that of Catamount Glacier requires 3 hr.
Maps: 82K/9, 82K/10E.
MT GRIFFITH (Plumley) 2766m 9074′
1. NE slopes. From camp N of Whirlpool Glacier, cross the lower part of the glacier and climb the rock wall to the tongue of the Catamount Glacier above. Then ascend easy NE slopes over the snow to the talus summit. Ascent 2 hr (CAJ 36-93).Minor summit at S end of Whirlpool Glacier, forming N retaining point of W lobe of Catamount Glacier.
FA Aug 1952, & W. Briggs, R. Collins, P. Robinson.
2. N Face. Ascend Whirlpool Glacier from camp at the lake to N and then climb directly to the upper headwall (avalanche danger), exiting 100 yards E of the summit. 2½ hr up.
D. & G. Offermann, E. Underhill, A. Larson, 7/1975
PEN POINT 2740m 8989′
Isolated pinnacle in Catamount Glacier; % mi NE of Mt Harmon.
1. SW Ridge. From camp near the tongue of Catamount Glacier over the glacier and then via SW ridge
FA Aug 1971, A. B. Larson, A. Larson.
2. NE Ridge., From Catamount Glacier, ascend toward the lower NE summit, which is bypassed on N and then climbed by cracks on its SW face. Return to the ridge and continue to the main summit (F3).
W. D. Gant, M. Hines, A. Larson, 8/1972
MT HARMON 2941m 9650′
Easterly of two peaks on the W side of Catamount Glacier; forms the S retaining wall of the W lobe of Catamount Glacier.
1. NE Ridge. From Mt Griffith (which see) cross the ice lobe to the rock ridge and scramble past two pinnacles. Two 50′ leads on the final tower (crumbly rock) give access to the summit.
FA W. Briggs, R. Collins, P. Robinson. NE Ridge, 8/1952.
2. NW Ridge. After ascent of Mt Nanette, return to col W of the objective and ascend the ridge to the top, descending by Route 1.
A. B. Larson, A. Larson. 8/1971
MT NANETTE 2911m 9550′
W summit of Mt Harmon.
1. E Ridge. From camp near the terminus of Catamount Glacier, cross the W lobe of the glacier and then follow the snow ridge to the summit. Ascent 3 hr.
FA A. B. Larson, A. Larson. 8/1971,
2. SW Ridge. From Mt Galloway, traverse the intervening ridge.
Jul 1972, W. D. Gant, M. Hines, A. Larson.
MT GALLOWAY 2972m 9750′
½ mi SW of Mt Harmon.
1. North Ridge. From Catamount Glacier to Galloway-Nanette col and then along N ridge. Ascent 4 hr.
FA Larson party (see Nanette), 7/1972.
UNNAMED 2850m 9350′
½ mi S of Mt Harmon.
1. North Ridge. From Catamount Glacier to col just SE of Mt Galloway, then via N ridge.
FA F. DeRose, A. Larson, 9/1972
UNNAMED 2880m 9450′
2/3 mi NW of Black Fang.
1. West Slope. From camp on W slope, above Stockdale Creek, as part of a circuit with Scotch Peaks.
FA M. Sherrick and party. 7/1955
2. N Ridge. From upper Catamount Glacier gain snow col in N ridge, thereafter following the ridge to the top.
D. & G. Offermann, E. Underhill, A. Larson, 7/1975
UNNAMED 2850m 9350′
½ mi NW of Black Fang.
1. Traverse. From Catamount Glacier ascend snow and rock on the NE side, descending the S ridge to complete the traverse.
FA Larson party (see above), 7/1975,
BLACK FANG 3002m 9850′
An 80′ granite pinnacle at the end of a high spur running ½ mi NNW from Mt Gwendolin, name misplaced ½ mi S on 82K/10.
1. Traverse. Climb along the ridge connecting Mt Gwendolin to the S base of the objective. One exposed pitch on lichen-covered granite leads to a small summit. One hr from Gwendolin. Descend E snow slope to the upper basin of Catamount Glacier.
FA W. Briggs, P. Robinson. Aug 1952.
2. NW Ridge. Jul 1975, Larson party (see Unnamed 9350 above). Gain ridge from upper Catamount Glacier and follow it throughout. Excellent 4th and 5th class climbing on firm gran ite with one 15′ pitch of aid. III F6 Al (CAJ 59-14).
MT GWENDOLIN 3124m 10250′
Major summit separating heads of Catamount and North Star Glaciers; name misplaced ½ mi S on 82K/10.
FA Geological Survey. Probably by W slopes from Stockdale Creek. 8/1912.
2. NE Ridge. From camp N of Whirlpool Glacier, gain tongue of Catamount Glacier as en route to Mt Griffith. Ascend glacier, avoiding “swamp” in the central part, for 2½ mi, bearing left onto NE ridge of objective. Then follow the broken ridge without difficulty to the summit; ascent 3 hr
W. Briggs, P. Robinson. 8/1952.
3. W Ridge. From Catamount Glacier to the ridge connecting to Black Fang and then over snow and rock to the summit.
Larson party (see Nanette), Aug 1972.
4. E Face/S Ridge.
From North Star Glacier ascend the snow of E face to gain S ridge at 10100′, following it to the top.
R. Ducharme, S. Lo, A. Larson, 7/1974.
SCOTCH PEAKS
A jagged, irregular line of granite peaks bordering the E side of Catamount Glacier and running from Mt Gwendolin N to the valley of Forster Creek. Climbing interest focuses on the main cluster of four peaks immediately north of Mt Gwendolin. These were originally ascended as part of a circuit with Un named 9450 and Mt Gwendolin.
PEAK #1 2972m 9750′
Northernmost of the main group.
1. West Ridge. From a point on Catamount Glacier directly E of Mt Harmon, gain and ascend the prominent W ridge
FA M. Sherrick & party, 7/1955.
2. N Ridge. The ridge is gained over Catamount Glacier from a camp near its terminus and followed to the summit.
F. DeRose, A. Larson, 8/1972
PEAK #2 2972m 9750′
1. FA Jul 1955, Sherrick party (see Peak #1) on the traverse from #1.
2. E Ridge. Via small glacier in NE basin, bearing left to gain E ridge. Snow to the summit, 3½ hr from camp near the tongue of North Star Glacier.
Larson party (Guendolin, Rte 4). 7/1974
PEAK #3 2941m 9650′
1. FA Jul 1955, Sherrick party (see Peak #1) on the traverse from Peak #2.
2. S Ridge. From North Star Glacier, reach #3-#4 col and then climb the ridge to the summit; 4 hr up from camp at glacier snout.
A. Bonham, R. Turmelle, A. Larson, 8/1975
PEAK #4 3002m 9850′
1 mi NE of Mt Gwendolin.
1. FA Jul 1955, Sherrick party (see Peak #1) on the traverse from Peak #3.
2. E Ridge. Follow the ridge (snow and rock) throughout. 6 hr from camp at the terminus of North Star Glacier.
Larson party (Guendolin Rte 4), 7/1974
UNNAMED 3033m 9950′
Summit ½ mi SE of Mt Gwendolin; incorrectly labeled Mt Gwendolin on 82K/10.
From upper North Star Glacier via short E ridge (rock).
FA Larson party (Guendolin Rte 4). 7/1974
NORTH STAR PEAK 3124m 10250′
One mi E of Mt Guendolin; at the head of North Star Glacier.
1. FA Aug 1969, K. Rinehart, D. & R. C. West.
2. NE Face. From camp at most NW of four lakes in Welsh Creek valley (Aberystwyth, 7600), ascend valley and Centaurus Glacier to col (9100) between Mts Alpha Centauri and Carmarthen. Cross into the North Star basin and ascend the snow of the NE face close to E ridge, the last 100′ being on the rock. Ascent 2½ hr from the col, 8 hr from camp
3. W Face. From camp near the snout of North Star Glacier, ascend to the base of NE face. The route takes a direct line to the summit just left (E) of the hanging glacier, involving 1000′ of 45 to 50° ice and snow. Ascent 5½ hr
Barber, R. Motyka, 9/1972
MT ALPHA CENTAURI 3094m 10150′
At extreme S end of North Star Glacier overlooking Stockdale Creek.
1. SE Ridge. From camp at Aberystwyth Lake, ascend the valley of Welsh Creek to pass at its head leading over to Stockdale Creek (two lakes at the pass). Follow the ridge, mostly on rock, traversing or bypassing the several pinnacles on the way to the summit. Ascent 7½ hr; descent by Route 2.
FA K. Rinehart, M. & R. C. West, 8/1969
Variant. Cross Cen taurus Glacier to climb the prominent snow slope on S edge of E face, gaining the SE ridge at 9900′ and taking it to the top.
S. Lo, L. Myers, A. Larson. 8/1973
2. N Face. From col be tween Mt North Star and objective, ascend snow of N face close to NW ridge. Traverse from the summit of Mt North Star, ½ hr
M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971
3. NE Ridge. From camp in upper Welsh Creek valley, gain the col between Mt Carmarthen and objective. Follow NE ridge, crossing ice gully to rock on N face 300′ below the summit. 3½ hr from the col to summit.
M. Enderlein, M. Hines,A. Larson. 8/1972
WELSH PEAKS
A ridge of broken granite peaks separates the North Star Glacier from the valley of Welsh Creek, a NE-flowing tributary of Forster Creek draining largely from the Centaurus Glacier. Its upper reaches contain 3 lakes at timberline and one some what higher.
MT CARMARTHEN 2941m 9650′
One mi NNE of Mt Alpha Centauri.
1. S Slopes. From camp at Aberystwyth Lake, gain the Carmarthen-Alpha Centauri col and then ascend N over snow and broken rock. Ascent 5½ hr.
FA Mr. & Mrs. K. Rinehart. S Slopes, 8/1969
2. E Ridge. From camp in upper Welsh Creek valley via E ridge of S sub-peak and then N to top. Ascent 4 hr.
M. Lucas. A. Larson, 7/1971
3. SE Buttress. From camp in the valley of Welsh Creek, gain the base of SE face (Welsh Wall) over Centaurus Glacier (1½ hr). The route follows the obvious corner on the wall. Climb a long pitch in an open book (F6), then continue up buttress on easier rock until a large overhang force a traverse right (F5) on large ledges. Turn the corner and climb up and right on more ledges to the base of another, smaller open book which is climbed directly (crux, F7) to a traverse 110′ up. Class 4 climbing then leads to the top of the buttress from which the summit may be easily gained. 4 hr from the base of climb; II F7.
B. Berry, P. Johnson, W. Nicolai, 7/197
4. NE/N Ridge. Circle Aberystwyth Lake and ascend the rotten rock of NE ridge, joining main N ridge at 9200 and then on to the summit.
S. Lo, L. Meyers, Larson, 8/1973
GLAMORGAN PEAK 2728m 8950′
Next N of Welsh Peaks; W of Aberystwyth Lake.
From camp at the lake, climb the obvious NE ridge which offers interesting scrambling on granite near the top. 5 hr from camp.
FA K. Rinehart, R. C. West, 8/1969
HARTECH PEAK 2637m 8650′
The lesser point is just N of Glamorgan Peak.
An easy scramble from camp at Aberystwyth Lake in 2½ hr.
FA Mr. & Mrs. K. Rineharl, D., R. C. & S. West, 8/1969
MERIONETH PEAK 2667m 8750
Northernmost of Welsh Peaks.
Traverse from summit of Harlech Peak along easy S ridge.¾ hr from Harlech Peak.
FA Aug 1969, Mr. & Mrs. K. Rinehart, R. C. West.
IRISH PEAKS
This group of granite peaks lies just E of the valley of Welsh Creek, separating it from that of Irish Creek, an N-flowing tributary of Forster Creek. Although the original approach to these peaks was from Welsh Creek, they are more readily accessible from Irish Creek. They offer numerous short, interesting climbs of all levels of difficulty.
GALWAY PEAK 3002m 9850′
Most of the Irish Peaks; are on the main Starbird Ridge between Mts Alpha Centauri and Sally Serena.
From camp in upper Welsh Creek valley, reach the base of N face of objective. Ascend steep snow on the face to gain the NE ridge 300′ below the summit, following it to the top. One rappel on the descent.
FA M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971
UNNAMED 2880m 9450′
½ mi E of Galway Peak; immediately NW of Upper Lake on Serena Creek.
MT KILLAMEY 2941m 9650′
½ mi NE of Galway Peak; 1½ mi W of Mt Sally Serena.
1. NE Ridge. From camp in the valley of Welsh Creek ascend a small glacier toward col immediately E of objective, between it and Leitrim Peak. Veering W just below the col, the route then follows the NE ridge, involving interesting rock climbing over, around, and through numerous blocks and pinnacles. 8 hr up.
FA K. Rinehart, R. C. West, 8/1969
2. W Ridge.A. Larson. From camp in upper Welsh Creek valley, ascend easy broken rocks to first spire (9,500). Pass the second spire on N (crux) and reach 3rd spire (summit) by easy rocks on S. Ascent 6½ hr
R. DuCharme, 8/1972
3. N Face (Winter Ascent). On skis to the base of N face. Then ascend prominent couloir to notch in W ridge 300′ from the summit. Follow the ridge, bypassing final vertical block by easy rocks on S. Poor route under sum mer conditions.
A. Larson, L. Patterson.12/1971
4. S Ridge. From Welsh Valley, ascend a small glacier to Killamey-Leitrim col. Cross the cirque SE of Mt Killamey and reach the high col (9100) in its S ridge, thereafter climbing broken rock to the summit. Ascent 4½ hr.
S. Lo, L. Meyers, A. Larson, 8/1973
LEITRIM PEAK 2911m 9550′
Next N of Irish Peaks; ½ mi ENE of Mt Killarney
1. W Face. From camp in Welsh Valley, ascend the snow gully on the W face of Armagh Peak to gain NW snowfields of objective which are taken to the top. Ascent 3 hr (CA 55-79).
FA M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971
2. E Glacier. From Shannon Lake follow the glacier to Leitrim-Armagh col and take the NE ridge to the summit.
Jul 1972, J. Hogsed, G. Kennedy, A. Larson.
3. SE Ridge. An easy scramble. One hr from 9000′ col between objective and Mt Donard.
A. Maki, C. Wagner, M. & R. C. West, 7/1971
4. W Ridge. Gain the Leitrim-Killamey col and ascend a steep gully to an area of broken blocks from which the W ridge is reached. After a notch in the ridge, the climbing becomes easier. Variations are possible.
D. J. Forbes, M. Hines, A. Larson, 9/1972
ARMAGH PEAK 2911m 9550′
¼ mi NNE of Leitrim Peak.
1. Traversed from Leitrim Peak in 35 min.
FA M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971,
2. NE Ridge. From Welsh Creek valley, ascend E into Cirgue and up to Col between Armagh and Mt Connemara. Follow the NE ridge over several high points to the top.
J. Brownell, J. Hogsed, G. Kennedy, Killam, A. Larson, 6/1972
3. N Face. The face is ascended via several large snow patches, connections being made by crossing ribs or ascending gullies.
J. & K. Helmer, M. Hines, M. Jones, Tomrdle, A. Larson, 7/1973
DUBLIN SPIRE 2758m 9050′
One mi N of Mt Sally Serena across Shannon Glacier. The several towers on the E ridge have been labelled “Eire Spire”.
Mag’s Molar. The small tower, “Mag’s Molar”, low on the E ridge was ascended – thrown rope required on the final 15′ monolith). J. Hogsed, G. Kennedy, A. Larson, 7/1972
#1” etc. The route of choice involves traversing the Eire Spires in order en route to the highest point, although any or all can be bypassed on the N slope (as was the case on the FA).
From Shannon Lake follow the ridge, passing a prominent gendarme (Mag’s Molar), to the base of the first tower. Circle onto N slopes by a series of connecting ledges (one F4 pitch), then scramble directly up to the summit block which is climbed by a strenuous pitch (F5) at its E end.
Descend below the ensuing notch and traverse N slopes until an easy line gives access to the top of the next bump. Continue in like fashion over succeeding promontories to the final sharp notch before the main summit. Again circle onto the N side or, better but harder, climb the slabby E ridge directly. Ascent 5 hr
Descent via S faces utilizing Wmost of 2 couloirs angling across the face in 2 hr. The more easterly couloir, emanating from the notch beyond the first Eire Spire also appears practical.
FA B. Magnuson, C. Wagner. E Ridge, 7/1970
2. W Ridge. Gain the Armagh-Connemara-Dublin col either from Shannon Lake or from Welsh Creek valley; then follow an interesting ridge over numerous towers to the summit. 2 hr col to the summit.
M. Bradford, L. Ellis, A. Larson, 8/1974
MT CONNEMARA 2880m 9450)
One mi N of Armagh Peak; W of Shamrock Lake (7700).
1. West. From camp in Welsh valley via W ridge (rotten rock) and W face. Ascent 4 hr (CAJ 55-79).
FA M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971
2. S Ridge. Reach Armagh-Connemara col from Welsh Valley and follow the ridge to the summit, turning steps on the E side.
M. Hines, M. Jones, D. Tomrdle, A.Larson, 8/1973,
DONEGAL PEAK 2850m 9350′
N’most of Irish Peaks
1. E ridge. From Shamrock Lake (reached from camp on Tara Lake in 2 hr), gain and follow E ridge easily to the summit. RT 2 hr from Shamrock Lake (CAJ 54-57)
C. Wagner, alone. 7/1970
2. S Ridge. Traverse intervening ridge from Mt Connemara in 2½ hr
M. Lucas, A. Larson, 7/1971
3. N Ridge. From Welsh Valley to W, ascend a gully to gain N ridge at 8700′, taking it to the top.
J. & K. Helmer, M. Hines, A. Larson, 8/1973
MT SALLY SERENA 3030m 9940′
A T-shaped granite massif at the head of Irish Creek, the leg running N-S and the cross E-W. This complex mountain actually comprises several closely set granite pinnacles and towers with 5 major summits (described separately below), the central and highest of which also bears the mountain’s name. From a climber’s standpoint, it is the most interesting peak in the Starbirds. Although routes on the W and S sides of the massif are approached more readily from a camp near the second lake (7400) at the head of Serena Creek, they have recently been reached from Shannon Lake by crossing the Leitrim Donard col (9000) and traversing a series of ramps and gullies just below the sheer walls of Mt Donard into the SW cirque (3-5 hr from Shannon Lake).
Mt DONARD 3011m 9880′
Wmost peak of Sally Serena massif.
1. West. From Serena Lakes ascend to the glacier in the SW cirque and then follow the rock ridge bounding it on W. Higher up, move left (W) into the prominent SW couloir which leads to a high notch in the main E-W axis of the massif. Climb W along the exposed ridge to the highest point. 2 hr from the base of the couloir, II F4.
FA A. H. MacCarthy, C. Kain, 8/1915
2. NE Face. Ascend Shannon Glacier about one mi beyond the lake and then climb the obvious system of steep snow couloirs, exiting onto the E-W ridge of the massif at about 9700′. Follow ridge W over a minor summit and onto the top, the last part coinciding with Route 1. Ascent 4 hr; descent via SW couloir and then around to Leitrim-Donard col.
A. Maki, C. Wagner, M. & R. C. West, 7/1971
3. S Coufoir/E Ridge. From camp at Serena Lakes gain glacier in SW cirque, ascending it to the base of steep rock couloir in the flank of the main E-W ridge of the massif, lying just left (W) of the sheer escarpment at the head of the cirque. Climb the couloir to the lowest point in the ridge (9600), thereafter following the concluding section of Route 2 to the summit. 4 hr from glacier.
7/1976, party unknown.
CENTRAL PEAK 3030m 9940′
The principal summit of Sally Serena massif; located at the cross ing of the T.
1. On traverse from Mt Donard via connecting ridge (main E-W axis of massif). From the lowest point in the ridge (9600), a spectacular knife-edge causeway along the top of the sheer S escarpment extends some 600′ to the final pyramid, which is climbed by avoiding difficulties to the N. The causeway is impractical when snow covered. A classic route. Descent was made down the W face, the lower part of the route perhaps in common with Route 3 below.
FA A.H. MacCarthy, C. Kain, 8/1915
2. E Ridge. From Shannon Lake, ascend broad snow couloir and rock ribs above it to E ridge just W of saddle (8700). Follow a snow ridge over a 9400′ sub-peak, then climb 4 pitches mostly on snow (the second an exposed traverse on the N flank) to gain an irregular rock ridge at 9700′. Climb ridge along knife edges and over monolithic blocks to final tiny notch (9800). Climb up a short distance and then traverse across the N face of the summit pyramid to the NW Ridge along which the top is easily gained. Ascent 7 hr. “Continuously exciting and enjoyable mixed climbing.” II F4.
A. Maki, C. Wagner, R. C. West, Jul 1971,
3. W Face/S Ridge. Ascend the SW glacier to near the intersection of the sheer S wall with the W face, bearing right (S) along a broad ledge at the base of the face. Climb the second inside corner (F5), then work back left to a water-worn groove, ascending this to a snowfield. Ascend a series of snowfields, interspersed with short rock pitches (one of F6) which lead up diagonally right (S) toward a pronounced col in the S ridge. Before reaching the col, climb a blocky groove (F3) angling left to the crest of the ridge. Several enjoyable pitches (F4) along the ridge lead to the airy summit. 4 hr from foot of face; III F6. Traverse completed by descending Route 2. Recommended.
H. & R. Kruszyna, D. Whitburn, 7/1976
KOALA PEAK 2941m 9650′
More northerly of 2 S summits of Sally Serena massif; ¼ mi S of the highest point.
SERRATE MT 2911m 9550)
Smost peak of Sally Serena massif.
BANSHEE TOWER 2758m 9050′
E peak of Sally Serena massif; ¾ mi from main summit across 8700′ saddle.
From Shannon Lake, circle E around a prominent rock buttress immediately S of the lake. Ascend snow slopes on the E side toward an apparent col left of the summit. There crosses a slight snow and rock rib into the basin SE of the summit. Cross the basin and ascend snow couloir (giving way to rock) to Banshee Leprechaun col (also reached from W over Leprechaun Spire, see below). Scramble E to the base of the final 50′ monolith which is ascended with the aid of a thrown rope (Banshee-Leprechaun col can also be reached from N).
FA B. Howatt, K. Mountjoy, D. & P. Racette, A. Larson, 8/1976
LEPRECHAUN SPIRE 2728m 8950)
Lower pinnacle immediately W of Banshee Tower.
From Shannon Lake, ascend the long snow couloir leading to the 8700′ saddle in the E ridge of Mt Sally Serena (3 hr). Climb E on good granite (F3 & 4) to the tiny summit in 15 min more.
FA B. Magnuson, C. Wagner, 7/1970
The top can also be reached from the Banshee-Leprechaun col;
J. Hogsed, G. Kennedy, A. Larson, 7/1972
