AZERBAIJAN – General

CLIMATE
Azerbaijan is known for having nine of the 11 existing ecological zones. Much of the country is temperate year-round. Nation-wide the average temperature for the year is 14-15°C (57-59°F). The Caucasus Mountains protect the country from the Arctic air masses that affect Russia in winter while the Caspian Sea shields it from the hot, dry air of Central Asia in the summer. Temperatures in the winter are cool (0-10°C/32-59°F) at lower altitudes and along the coast and drops moderately as you head inland and drastically as you head into the mountains (-20°C/-4°F) is possible in the Caucasus Mountains). Summers range from warm to hot (20-40°C/68-104°F) and humid throughout most of the country, although breezes off the Caspian provide some relief along the coast. Nakhchivan is quite different, high and arid, summers here can easily surpass 40°C (104°F) while winter nights often drop below -20°C (-4°F)…in fact the country’s extreme minimum and maximum (-33°C/-27°F & 46°C/115°F) were both recorded in southern Nakhchivan!
Snow is rare in Baku and along the coast in general while common inland and copious in the mountains, where many villages may be cut off during the winter. The southern forests are the wettest part of the country, with plenty of rain in late autumn and early spring. The western central coast is fairly dry. Lankaran receives the most annual precipitation (1600–1800 mm/63–71 in) while the region around Baku averages 200 mm (8 in). Baku is very breezy, much like Chicago or Wellington, most of the year.

TERRAIN 
Much of the large, flat Kura-Araks lowlands (Kur-Araz Ovaligi) are below sea level with the Great Caucasus Mountains towering on the northern horizons. The Karabakh uplands (Qarabag Yaylasi) lie to the west where Baku is situated on the Apsheron peninsula (Abseron Yasaqligi that juts into the Caspian Sea.
The lowest point is the Caspian Sea at -27m (-89 ft) with the highest point being Bazarduzu Dagi at 4,466m (14,652 ft)
Absheron Yasaqligi (including Baku and Sumgayit) and the Caspian Sea are ecological concerns because of pollution from oil spills that date back more than a century ago. Heavy car traffic in the capital contributes to heavy pollution as well.

ECONOMY
Azerbaijan’s number one export is oil. Azerbaijan’s oil production declined through 1997 but has registered an increase every year since. Negotiation of production-sharing arrangements (PSAs) with foreign firms, which have thus far committed $60 billion to oilfield development, should generate the funds needed to spur future industrial development.
Azerbaijan shares all the formidable problems of the former Soviet republics in making the transition from a command to a market economy, but its considerable energy resources brighten its long-term prospects.
The government has begun making progress on economic reform, and old economic ties and structures are slowly being replaced. An obstacle to economic progress, including stepped up foreign investment in the non-energy sector, is the continuing conflict with Armenia over the Nagorno-Karabakh region. Trade with Russia and the other former Soviet republics is declining in importance while trade is building with Turkey and the nations of Europe. Long-term prospects will depend on world oil prices, the location of new pipelines in the region and Azerbaijan’s ability to manage its oil wealth.
Also, make sure to bring your own automated voltage adapter because the electricity in Azerbaijan short circuits and “jumps” a lot and many items may get damaged if you don’t bring the adapter.

GETTING IN
VISA
Visa restrictions: Evidence of travel to Nagorno-Karabakh will cause you problems upon trying to enter Azerbaijan. Azeri authorities will deny you a visa, cancel any Azeri visa you may have obtained and permanently ban you from their country. Upon trying to enter Azerbaijan, you will be turned away, deported, or possibly arrested.
If requested, Nagorno-Karabakh authorities can issue their visa on a piece of paper separate from your passport, although sometimes they forget to do this even if instructed to do so.
Entry to Azerbaijan is also refused to citizens of Armenia, as well anyone of Armenian descent or with an Armenian name or surname regardless of their country of citizenship. Taking into Azerbaijan any products made in Armenia or ostensibly bought in Armenia is also prohibited. If you have a visa from Armenia proper in your passport, you may also be hassled at the border.
Overall, consider planning a trip that takes in Azerbaijan before Armenia. Travellers have had border guards and police confiscate guidebooks which describe Nagorno-Karabakh as separate from Azerbaijan, especially Lonely Planet’s Georgia, Armenia, & Azerbaijan.
Visa requirements In 2016 Azerbaijan introduced a new single-entry eVisa for citizens of the following countries: All European Union member states, as well as Andorra, Albania, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Norway, San Marino, Serbia, Switzerland, and Vatican City
Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Bahrain, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, China (including Hong Kong and Macau), Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Ecuador, Guatemala, India, Indonesia, Iran, Israel, Japan, Jordan, Kuwait, Malaysia, Maldives, Mauritius, Mexico, Mongolia, Morocco, Nepal, New Zealand, Oman, Pakistan, Panama, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Seychelles, Singapore, South Africa, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Turkey, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, United States of America, and Vietnam
The eVisa costs US$20, plus $4 for administration fee, is valid for 30 days within the next three months after application, and can be purchased at evisa.gov.az – photocopy of your passport, and address of your stay needs to be provided. Caution: there is a fake official website: evisa.com.az – also providing visas but requiring you to purchase an overpriced tour or expensive hotel.
A visa is not required for stays of 90 days or less for citizens of Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
A 30-day visa on arrival may be obtained only when arriving by air by citizens of Bahrain, China (including Hong Kong and Macau), Indonesia, Israel, Japan, Kuwait, Malaysia, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Korea, Turkey (60 days) and United Arab Emirates.
Citizens of the United States may also obtain a visa on arrival at Heydar Aliyev International Airport, but only if arriving via a direct flight of Azerbaijan Airlines from New York City.
Citizens of Iran may obtain a 15-day visa on arrival for Nakhchivan only.
If you have an Armenian name, you will not be issued a visa, no matter what country you hold citizenship in.
For citizens of all other countries visas can be obtained by mail or in person from any Azerbaijani embassy offering consular services. A letter of invitation (LOI) from a contact in Azerbaijan is required.
Foreigners staying in Azerbaijan for longer than 15 days should register with the State Migration Service within 15 working days of arrival. Failure to register within this time frame will incur a fine of 300 manat (2019). The registration is free and can be done online by submitting copy of the passport and filled in application form or in person at specially designed offices of State Migration Service (one of such offices will be opened eventually at the Train Station, however it was closed as of 2015). Hotels may provide this service for their guests, but travellers are strongly advised to ensure the registration has been completed indeed as hotels are more than often skip doing it.
By Plane. The primary international gateway is Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Baku (GYD), with additional international airports (whose international routes are basically just Moscow & Istanbul) found in Nakhchivan City NAJ, Ganja KVD, & Lankaran LLK.
National air company AZAL (Azerbaijan Airlines) is the main carrier which flies to Ganja, Nakhchivan, Tbilisi, Aktau, Tehran, Tel-Aviv, Ankara, Istanbul IST, Istanbul Sahiha Gokchen, Antalya (seasonal), Bodrum (seasonal), Dubai, Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Kiev, Rostov-on-Don, Ürümqi, Mineralniye Vodi, Milan, London (daily) and Paris, Prague, Rome. Lufthansa also has a couple flights a week to Baku (which continue onwards to Ashgabat). Turkish Airlines is another carrier connecting Baku with and via Istanbul. Also, there are several Russian, Ukrainian, Uzbek, Iranian, and Austrian airlines connecting Baku with several cities of the world.
Qatar Airways flies 2 flights a day, one to Tbilisi and one to Doha connecting to their global network.
By Train. Direct trains connect Azerbaijan with Georgia (Tbilisi), Russia (Moscow and Rostov) and Ukraine (Kharkov) via Russia. Timetables are here https://ady.az/az/tables/index/52/44 Click on the earth for international timetables. The Russian border used to be closed to non-CIS passport holders but it is now open to everyone with respective visas.
There is an overnight train connecting Tbilisi, Georgia and Baku. Heading out of Azerbaijan, this costs 26 manat. This route is being modernized as part of a project, financed in part by Azerbaijan, which includes the construction of a rail segment from Akhalkalaki, Georgia with Kars, Turkey. This long-delayed rail link from Georgia to Turkey opened on 30 Oct 2017, initially for freight only. The start date and timetable for passenger trains has not yet been announced.
There is a domestic train line running from Astara on the Iranian border to Baku and a 300 km connector line is being buiit from Astara to Qazvin, Iran to connect the Azerbaijani and Iranian rail networks.
For those planning to visit the exclave of Nakhchivan, there is a rail service to Mashad in Iran.
By Car. There are roads to all cities of Azerbaijan. They are not really wide and most of them have only two lanes. Local travel agents can arrange private cars to the borders. Some Georgian travel agents such as Exotour can arrange pickup in Baku to delivery in Tbilisi. Although more expensive than bus or train, it will be faster and can be combined with sightseeing along the way. Pay attention to the fact that Azerbaijani customs will request you to pay a deposit of several thousand US dollars for your car.
By Bus. There are buses that run daily from Georgia, Turkey, Iran and Russia to Azerbaijan.
A minibus also runs from the Georgian border at Krazny Most (Red Bridge) and should cost about 10 or 12 manat (or 25 lari). It can be picked up at either side of the border (don’t worry if they ask you to pay on the Georgian side – they turn up to pick you up. Insist on bringing your own bags across, however). Journey time to Baku should take about 8 hours. Driving in Azerbaijan is a genuinely scary experience. Virtually all drivers have scant regard for the rules of the road and the standard of roads themselves is shockingly poor. It is emphatically not for the faint-hearted, so whilst the long train might challenge your stamina they won’t your nerves. Check AZAL flights from Tbilis-Baku well in advance for some reasonable deals.
Return to Tbilisi can be caught at the indescribably chaotic bus station, which doubles up as an eerily quiet shopping-centre (take bus 65 from outside Double Gate in the old town for the 20-min trip, which leaves you with a 400 m long dodgy stretch of road/highway with pestering taxi-drivers on which to walk: cost 0.20 manat) or simply taxi it from the centre for approx. 15 manat (worth it!), which saves on hassle. Both buses and minibuses are available from this station directly to Tbilisi, about 12 manat for both. Bus counter 26 at very back of ground floor. The bus is a few hours slower and not guaranteed to pick you up once you cross the Georgian border, so minibus is preferable.
By Boat. There is no ferry or cruise service with any other country on the Caspian. Be forewarned that the much talked about “ferries” on the Caspian are simply cargo ships with some extra space to take on passengers. Getting a ride on one of these “ferries” is no easy task. First you must find the notoriously difficult to find ticket office, which basically keeps track of ship which are departing. If you manage to find the ticket office and manage to get a booking, you still have little idea of when the ship will depart. Give them a phone number to reach you and be prepared, they may call you an hour or two prior to departure… two days after the first departure the office gave you and the day before the second departure date they gave you! This is only the first of you troubles. After paying for your place on the boat (about US$50–100), the captain and perhaps other crew members will expect an additional amount to get a bed and a shower. You are expected to bring your own food. The crossing will only take 1 day (Turkmenistan) or 2–3 days (Kazakhstan). Most ships go to Turkmenistan, where ships must wait for an open berth… so you can wait 2–5 days on the boat just waiting for a place to dock! Unless you are on a very small budget or have a bike and especially if you are on a short timeschedule, you should pay twice as much (~US$200–250) for a one way airfare to Kazakhstan, Russia, or Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

GET AROUND 
By Bus or Marshrutka. Buses and marshrutkas (aka minibus aka converted delivery van) connect most cities. There is often a hub such as a bus station near the bazaar in these cities. The fares for buses and minibuses are posted usually in both old and new manat (qupik). A common rule of thumb for bus rates in Azerbaijan seems to be about 1 manat per hour ride.
Marshrutkas are quite crowded on the intra-city routes in Azerbaijan. It is common for 15 people to crowd into a 10-person marshrutka, and do not feel shy in doing this. It is normal, if you are standing, for someone to take your bag and hold onto it until either you or they disembark. Men usually ride in the rear of buses and marshrutkas, while women sit in the front, and it is customary for men to give their seat to a lady entering the bus. Lastly, Azerbaijan is not a queue-forming society, and this especially applies to bus and marshrutkas.|
By Train. With a few exceptions, trains in Azerbaijan are night trains that connect Baku with distant regions of the country. There is also a daily fast train to Ganja, daily slow train to Shirvan and a frequent suburban train to Sumqavit. Timetables here: https://ady.az/az/tables/index/52/44 The international Nakhichivan – Mashad train can used for trip within the Nakhichivan exclave: https://ady.az/az/news/read/312/43
By Taxi. Taxies on the other hand require negotiating skills, and this usually takes a proficiency in the language that ordinary non-Azeri/Russian/Turkish speakers do not have.
By Car
Note that Baku and Azerbaijan in general have many automated speed cameras, and it is not uncommon to get a ticket—which will be sent via SMS directly to the car owner. So, don’t be surprised when you have to pay a little extra when giving back the car. Locals say, 60 manat for a weekend trip is not uncommon.
By Rental Car. Due to remote location of many sights and scarcity of attractions in this otherwise huge country, it can be meaningful to rent a car. The most common rental company is the Azeri AZNUR, which competes well on prices with the big international companies. A budget car for 4 days starts from US$100 with a deposit of US$150. Be cautious when using the common price comparison sites for rental cars. They often try to sell you overpriced full coverage insurances or charge other unnecessary fees right before confirming the booking, especially via mobile and when not being attentive in reading the conditions.
By Thumb. As a man hitchhiking is generally possible and easy. However, sometimes to often people expect a little money for taking you along the way, pretty much like in Iran. A woman on its own on the other hand will cause confusion and potentially unexpected behaviour, and should therefore be not undertaken.
On Foot and Navigation. Azerbaijan is an excellent place for hiking and trekking, providing many interesting trails. The Caucasus, Göygöl National Park, Quba or Khinalug, just to name some destinations. However, due to the often remote nature of these trails, it is important that you are well prepared and have a proper and reliable map with you. In addition, using GPS adds an extra layer of safety, both in cities as well as the countryside. For reliable (offline) maps and comprehensive trails and map information, consult OpenStreetMap, which is also used by this travel guide, and by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd (complex with many add-ons) and MAPS.ME (easy but limited).

LANGUAGE
Azeri is the official language. This is a Turkic language, closely related to Turkish itself. However, English is spoken in places frequented by foreign tourists and expats, especially Baku, where Russian is now slowly declining but is still much more widely spoken. Outside of Baku it wise to still either bring an Azeri phrase book and/or brush up on your Azeri/Turkish/Russian before arriving. About 80% of population at least understands Russian, and about half the people under the age of 35 will speak at least a little English. English is well catered for in most mid-range and all upscale shops, restaurants, bars and hotels in Baku as a result of more than 15 years of expats from the oil industry. It might be difficult to talk to people in English in remote areas or even just outside of Baku. However, often they will know someone that knows English, call or get them and use them as translator.

DESTINATIONS
There are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country; The walled city of Baku with the Shirvanshah’s Palace and Maiden Tower as well as the Rock Art Cultural Landscape of Gokustan.
Neft Daşları – City above the sea, the first operating offshore oil platform in the world, located 55 km from the nearest shore in the Caspian Sea.
Mud volcanoes which spout up in over 300 locations nationwide, constitute more than half the total throughout the world, each site with its own character
Caspian Hyrcanian forests found near the Iranian border
Tears of Kyapaz a string of seven idyllic mountain lakes near Mount Kyapaz and Nagorno-Karabakh

THINGS TO DO
Hang around in a smoky tea house, have a pivo or tea, and play dominoes.
Try to attend an Azerbaijani wedding
Contrary to reports, Azeri wine is more than drinkable, and whilst not as tasty as their Georgian or Armenian counterparts, is still a pleasant treat! Find a local drinking-hole and while away the hours!
Buy local souvenirs and carpets. Don’t be put off by the pestering stall-keepers. Persevere, be prepared to haggle, and you can get some really wonderful bargains!
Baku 
Visit Maiden Tower for wonderful views of the city
Take in the breathtaking views of Flag Square, Baku Crystal Hall and the Caspian Sea from Martyr’s Alley
Wander around the Old Town aimlessly – really try to get lost and soak up the atmosphere in this wonderful old town
Visit the beautiful Palace of the Shirvanshahs
Walk along the promenade, just as the locals do
Itineraries.
Baku and Absheron
Southern Route: Baku – Salyan – Bilasuvar – Jalilabad – Masalli – Lenkaran – Lerik – Astara
Nakhchivan Route
Western Route: Baku – Hajiqabul – Kurdemir – Yevlah – Tar-Tar – Naftalan – Ganja – City of Goy-Gol – Dashkesen – Shamkir – Gadabey – Tovuz – Agstafa – Gazakh

MONEY
New Azerbaijani manat (January 2019): US$1 ≈ 1.7 manat, €1 ≈ 2.0 manat, UK£1 ≈ 2.2 manat
The currency of the country is the New Azerbaijani manat (yeni manat), denoted by the symbol ““, or sometimes by m. or man. It is divided into 100 gapiz.
The “old” manat (AZM), were replaced by “New Azerbaijani manat” on 1 January 2007, so do not accept old manat.
New banknotes of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 manat and metal coins of 1, 3, 5, 10, 20 manat and 50 gapik (0.5 manat) circulate. The banknotes are of a uniform design somewhat reminiscent of euro banknotes since the same designer worked on both sets.Manat can be changed into Georgian lari, and the other way around, in towns near the border, and in Georgia.

CUISINE. Azeri cuisine (azərbaycan mətbəxi) might not seem as diverse to Europeans, but it is worth trying. Most of the dishes contain a lot of meat (including fat) and vegetables. Bread is a staple, and is quite revered by the people of Azerbaijan.
Piti is a national dish. It is made with mutton and vegetables (tomatoes, potatoes, chickpeas), infused with saffron water to add flavour and colour, all covered by a lump of fat, and cooked in a sealed crock. Worth trying Şəki version of this dish (boiled chestnuts are used instead of potato), if you are there.
Cabbage, grape leaves, and eggplant wrapped meat (kelem, yarpaq, badimjan – dolmasi), kabab (kebab), rice with different variety of toppings (plov – It is said that plov is the king of Azerbaijani cuisine), gutabs and meatballs (kufta) are some of the several specialties of Azerbaijan. Yarpaq dolmasi is often considered to be the national dish.
Georgian food, in particular khachapuri (a cheese-filled bread), along with some Russian staples (borsh, crepes/bliny) have become common throughout Azerbaijan. Other cuisines such as Turkish, Italian, Asian, Western & fast food, along with Asian food can be found in biggest cities.
There are several soups that you might want to try: bozbash, buglama, ashgara (lamb with chestnut). Try Çoban qovurma (lamb stew with vegetables).
Drink. Some local drinks include ayran (a yoghurt drink based on sour milk) and sherbet (made from rose petals or saffron). There are also different sorts of quite decent wines produced from local grapes and a wide array of mineral waters from natural springs.
In some areas of Azerbaijan the markets offer lemonades (limonat/dushes) made from pears or tarragon.
Note: In general, it is forbidden for females to enter tea houses and drinking establishments. Drinking in general is also taboo for women in rural Azerbaijan. It’s not a problem in Baku.

ACCOMMODATION
There is a good selection of hotels in Baku, including many Western chains, but options elsewhere in the country are limited but nevertheless growing. Prices for the hotels start from US$60. Rental apartments might be a good choice as they are cheaper than hotels and sometimes are even more comfortable.
Since many hostel-like places and guest-houses are popping up rapidly and randomly everywhere in the country (like in Sheki and Ganja), they are often poorly signposted, and from the outside a great hostel might look like an ordinary apartment. Hence, make sure beforehand to get a detailed description (including GPS) of where to find the place and which apartment to ring at. Otherwise, you might be lost forever and even locals won’t know where this newly popped up place is.

SAFETY
Robbing and pickpocketing in the capital Baku, especially in poor and sparsely populated areas is possible but rare and is higher across the capital at night. Common sense is useful as in all other countries. Also watch your stuff in public transport.
Corruption is widespread. But as a foreigner you have a fairly strong position in refusing to pay “hörmet” (bribe). Never give any bribe. Often Azeris are so ashamed of their corrupt economy, that they might hide it from you anyway.
When outside of the city, try to travel during the day time, unless you take a night train. The roads can be treacherous at night due to unseen potholes and dimly lit cars.
Emergency Phone Numbers
Ambulance: 103
Fire: 101
Gas Emergency: 104
Speaking Clock: 106
Police: 102
You must speak in Azeri, Turkish or Russian to communicate your needs. It would be a good idea to memorize key phrases before coming to Azerbaijan – see the Talk section for phrasebooks.
Water should not be consumed unless from a sealed bottle. Bottled soft drinks or boiled drinks, such as tea or coffee, also reduce risks.

RESPECT
Azerbaijanis are a very reserved but very polite and well-mannered people.
When you are invited into an Azerbaijani home, make sure to bring them a gift. Anything is fine from flowers (be sure to get an odd number of flowers, as an even number is associated with funerals), to chocolate (but not wine and other alcoholic beverages), and indeed something representative from your country. In Azerbaijani culture it is the thought behind the gift, rather than the price, that matters.
When you arrive at the house take off your shoes just outside or immediately inside the door, unless the owner explicitly allows you to keep them on. Even then, it might be more polite to remove your shoes. You may be offered slippers to wear.
Azerbaijanis respect elderly people, so in a bus, tram, subway and in other forms public transportation, young(er) people will always offer you a place to sit if you are an old(er) person as well as a handicapped person or a pregnant woman or have children with you. It is considered polite to let women first to board and leave the bus, tram, subway and in other forms public transportation or to enter and leave a room.
It is respectful to bend slightly (not a complete bow) when greeting someone older or in a position of authority. Younger people always initiate greetings with older people or those in a position of authority.
If you do not know the person well, use their first name followed by an appropriate honorific. For women, use “Xanım” – pronounced “hanm” (“Mrs.”). For men, use “Cənab” – pronounced “jenab” (“Mr”). If they do speak English use their last name preceded by the appropriate English honorific “Mr.” or “Mrs.”. The English honorific “Ms.” does not exist in the Azerbaijani language.
THINGS to AVOID 
Politics. At all costs, do not insult or speak badly of President Ilham Aliyev his direct predecessor his father, the late President Haydar Aliyev, and the Aliyev family in general, who rule Azerbaijan. This carries a prison sentence, or if you are a foreign citizen, the remote possibility of deportation from the country. In late 2009, two young men were sentenced to 4 years imprisonment for depicting President Ilham Aliyev as a donkey giving a news conference in a video that was put on YouTube.
At all costs, do not mention Armenia and the Armenians and the very bitter Nagorno-Karabakh conflict that has been ongoing with neighboring Armenia which controls the breakaway Nagorno-Karabakh enclave. Azerbaijan lost 14% of its territory and has some 800,000 refugees and internally displaced persons as a result of the conflict. Bitterness and hatred against Armenians run very high.
Avoid photographing railways, subway stations, and other objects which the authorities may think to be of “strategic” importance. Foreign railway buffs have been reportedly detained by the authorities on suspicion of espionage.

RELIGION
Even though 95% of the population is Shiite Muslim, Azerbaijan is a strictly secular state is by and large an agnostic and non-religious nation. This is true in large cities, and even in villages and rural areas. Despite seeing themselves as Muslims, Azeri men often drink alcoholic beverages, and this is widely accepted, probably due to the Russian and Soviet legacy (though it bears mention that drinking is rare among women and almost never occurs between men and women in rural areas or socially conservative families). Recent unrest in Iran, Iraq and Syria made the government very strict about religious clothing and symbols and prompted greater secularization and stricter control of the southern borders. Any religious signs, flags, slogans in public and proselytizing (missionary activity) for any religion are prohibited by law. Any violation will result in fines, imprisonment, and in case of foreigners, deportation from the country. Don’t assume that anyone you do not know believes in God or has a passion for Islam or in other faiths. Investigations into people’s faith is largely unwelcome, and outside places of worship, displays of your faith should be kept private. Saying grace for example, is likely to be met with bewilderment and silence. Religious attire such as Muslim headscarves, Kippahs or even T-shirts with religious slogans, will – while tolerated – also make many Azerbaijanis feel uncomfortable. However, it is acceptable to wear small necklaces with religious symbols. Those with long beards may arouse the suspicion of the authorities.
Social Customs and Etiquette Breaches
Don’t blow your nose during meals, even discreetly.
Don’t pick your teeth during meals, even discreetly.
Don’t put your feet up while sitting and try not to show the bottom of your feet to someone.
Don’t point with your finger at someone.
Don’t chew gum while having a conversation and during public occasions.
Better not to touch someone without permission.
Don’t bear hug or back slap someone, especially in formal situations and occasions and with someone you just met and/or you do not know well enough.
Don’t raise your voice or shout in public, especially on public transportation.
Don’t use swear words during conversation or while talking to oneself in public and also among friends.

OTHER THINGS to WATCH FOR
Public displays of affection in larger cities and tourist resorts is tolerated but might invite unnecessary stares from the public. In more rural areas it is frowned upon and is to be avoided. Gay and lesbian travellers should avoid any outward signs of affection.
You will notice how Azerbaijanis tend to keep their voices down in public places. Do not raise your voice in a conversation. A decent silent conversation is the Azerbaijani way of doing business and will be much appreciated. Talking on a mobile phone on public transportation and in restaurants is considered normal, unless the conversation is loud and too “private”.
Littering is considered to be very bad manners and you may be fined. There are many waste containers and trash cans on the sidewalks and near most stores.
Gay and lesbian travellers.Homosexuality is no longer criminalized in Azerbaijan, but the negative stigma still is strong throughout Azerbaijan. Same-sex relationships are not recognized by the government and showing your orientation openly is very likely to draw stares and whispers. The few establishments geared towards homosexuals are almost (if not exclusively) in Baku and are mostly underground. Azerbaijan is not the happiest place in the world for LGBT travellers; be quite cautious when travelling as a LGBT traveller.

CONNECT 
For numbers given in the form (0cc)xxx xx xx, the “0” is the trunk prefix and cc the area code. To call from abroad, dial +994ccxxxxxxx. For calling in the country, dial 0ccxxxxxxx, or from from local landlines xxxxxxx.
There are three mobile operators: Azercell, Bakcell, Nar Mobile, Azerfon-Vodafone.
Azercell is the largest one. To dial an Azercell number you need to dial (050) or (051) and then the number. Only with Azercell can you talk in the metro(subway) in Baku.
Nar Mobile is pretty cheap but doesn’t work in some regions. For dialing Nar Mobile numbers you need to dial (070) and then the number.
Azerfon-Vodafone is new operator have 3G. For dialing Azerfon-Vodafone numbers you need to dial (077) and then the number.
Bakcell is ok. It works almost everywhere and is cheaper that Azercell. To dial a Bakcell number you need to dial (055) and then the number.
The numbers have a “0” + 2 digit code (different for each operator) + 7 digits number. For example (050)xxx xx xx, (051)xxx xx xx, or (055)xxx xx xx, or (070)xxx xx xx, or (077)xxx xx xx. Remove the zero when using the +994 prefix.
You can buy cards for use with different operators almost in every store.
Area Codes. The area codes were changed to two figures in 2011. Baku, Sumqayit and the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic kept their area codes (12, 18 and 36, respectively), other areas have area codes in the range 20–26.

AZERBAIJAN 2016
Baku to the future. A post-Soviet autocracy tries to transmute black gold into modernity
Atlantic: May 21st 2016

Next month around two dozen Formula One race cars will speed through the gleaming centre of Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. They will zoom along the shore of the oil-rich Caspian Sea, past five-star hotels and shops displaying Brioni suits and Chopard watches. They will also race past the less attractive side of Azerbaijan: its sputtering economy, oppressive political system and simmering conflict with Armenia. At such speed, it will be hard to spot the signs of insecurity in this former Soviet republic of 10m people squeezed between Iran, Turkey and Russia.

Formula One’s European Grand Prix is a fitting vanity project for Azerbaijan. The country has transformed itself from a failing state in the early 1990s to a rich and corrupt oil economy. Between 2003 and 2015 oil and gas revenues were $119 billion; the cash was spent on infrastructure, weapons and ostentatious follies. Some of the money the country earned from oil and gold mines has been funnelled into powerful people’s offshore accounts. But enough of it trickled down to fuel strong domestic demand, largely satisfied by imports.
When the oil price crashed, the music stopped. Baku’s taxi-drivers now grumble about rising prices and the money being wasted on the Grand Prix. Azerbaijan had to devalue its currency twice last year, after its central bank burned through some $10 billion of foreign-currency reserves trying to defend the manat. Banks are weighed down by some $2 billion of unpaid loans, say some analysts. The State Oil Fund of Azerbaijan (SOFAZ), which takes in all of the country’s oil and gas revenues, is still sitting on $35 billion—roughly equal to a year’s GDP—but spending has been cut back and the budget now conservatively assumes a price of $25 a barrel.

Azerbaijan has also been hit by the recession in neighbouring Russia, where hundreds of Azerbaijanis once worked. The economy was 3.5% smaller in the first quarter than a year earlier. Inflation is in double digits. Rising bread prices caused riots in several regions, quickly pacified with cash and police truncheons.

Azerbaijan’s political clans, who control much of its economy, have been jolted out of their comfort zone. For much of his rule the legitimacy of Ilham Aliyev, the autocratic president who inherited his post from his father, rested on Western-operated oil and gas projects. Now he must choose between modernising the country or becoming more dictatorial.

Spooked by the Maidan revolution in Kiev in 2014, Azerbaijan copied some of Russia’s repressive practices. Non-governmental organisations were deemed agents of foreign influence; dissidents were jailed. But Russia’s annexation of Crimea and the war in eastern Ukraine worry Mr Aliyev, too. Azerbaijan’s Nagorno-Karabakh region is occupied by Russian-backed Armenia, and has long resisted the presence of Russian troops in the region. Struggling to cope with cheap oil and the need to finance energy projects, Mr Aliyev is now seeking to repair relations with the West.

Shortly before his trip to Washington, DC, for a nuclear-security summit in March, Mr Aliyev released a number of political prisoners. But he kept two prominent ones in jail: Ilgar Mammadov, leader of REAL (“republican alternative”), a pro-Western opposition movement; and Khadija Ismayilova, an investigative journalist and anti-corruption activist. To dodge the security services, REAL cells now masquerade as cyclists’ associations or book clubs. Natiq Jafarly, the group’s secretary, says there has been an inflow of new members from small businesses and even from the state oil firm, Socar.

To appeal to the middle class, Mr Aliyev is trying to modernise the country while maintaining a tight grip on politics. He has launched a “one-stop shop” public-services bureau that largely eliminates the need to pay bribes for official documents. Mr Aliyev has sacked the chief of Azerbaijan’s security service, the organisation which succeeded the local KGB (once headed by Mr Aliyev’s father). He has also promised to reform the economy. “We were planning to do reforms in about ten years’ time. Now we have to do them a lot sooner,” says Natiq Amirov, Mr Aliyev’s assistant for economic reforms. The country has built plenty of infrastructure, he says; what it lacks is human capital.

Azerbaijan has been talking about diversifying its economy for years. Now that “empty rhetoric” is starting to inch towards reality, says a Western diplomat. The model for the reforms is Malaysia. Much of the elite believes it can import economic reforms without touching the political system—just as London-style taxis have been brought over to cruise Baku’s streets, and the first lady’s favourite restaurant has been imported from Marbella, chef, cutlery and all.

Azerbaijan lacks a bureaucracy capable of reform. (The very word scares public-sector workers, says Mr Amirov.) But it does have bright young Western-educated talent. Taleh Ziyadov, who holds a doctorate from Cambridge University, heads the free-trade zone at Baku’s new port, a point on China’s “One Belt, One Road” infrastructure link to Europe. “We don’t have time to wait for the whole country to reform,” says Mr Ziyadov.

The training ground for this new elite is the Azerbaijan Diplomatic Academy (ADA), a leafy, modern campus next to a zoo. The curriculum is entirely in English; many of the staff are international. Its director, Hafiz Pashayev, is the 75-year-old uncle of Azerbaijan’s first lady and a former ambassador to Washington. Its mission, he says, is “to create a special milieu where students are free to think”.

Mr Pashayev, a former Soviet physicist, is well aware that ADA’s graduates will eventually press the existing elite for more power, just as the Soviet intelligentsia did in the 1980s. But as a member of one of the country’s powerful families, he hopes to foster a managed succession of the elite, rather than a radical break of the kind that happened in Georgia or Ukraine.

That a clan-based autocracy can pull off such a modernisation programme seems doubtful, but nationalism is a strong motivator. “Our objective is to propel the country to the top position in the world,” says Mr Pashayev grandiosely. ADA might succeed. But in a country of oil wells and fast cars, the lure of rent-seeking and corruption is strong.