Turkey – Black Sea Central and East (Samsun, Trabzon, Amasya, Giresun) November 15- 17, 2019
After leaving Sinop and the Black Sea West area of Turkey, it turned east to drive along the south shore of the Black Sea – all the way to Georgia. The road was certainly up to the spectacular quality of Turkish highways – entirely 4-lane divided and smooth pavement without a flaw. There are few reduced speed corners and zero hills as tunnels deal with anything in the road’s way. It hugs the narrow flat bit of land between the mountain range that runs the entire length of the north of Turkey. The frequent towns and cities rise up the mountain slopes. In fact one rarely leaves habitation. Despite that the highway has a speed limit of 110 and almost never goes below 82 (kind of an odd number). And despite all these towns, traffic lights (and overpasses) are few, only in larger cities. Roundabouts occupy the median of the road.
Kızılırmak Delta Wetland and Bird Sanctuary. A tentative WHS (13/04/2016), it is located in the Black Sea Cost in Samsun Province. It only is 0-15 m above sea level and is made up of fresh and semi-saline lakes, stable and moving sand dunes, reed beds, marshes, flooded grasslands and forest. The total area is 45378 ha, 21263 ha as the nominated heritage site and 24115 ha is the buffer zone.
Coastal sand dunes connect the two main zones of KDWBS, to the east and west of the Kızılırmak river. In the eastern zone, six shallow lakes (Liman, Balık, Uzun, Cernek, Gıcı and Tatlı) and areas of flooded mixed ash-alder forest are bordered by the sea to north and east, and agricultural land to the south. The western zone includes Karaboğaz and Mülk Lakes, with the sea to the west and agricultural lands on the south and east.
It has 27 endangered bird species including the Sociable plover, White-headed duck (wintering), Egyptian vulture, Steppe eagle, Saker falcon, Slavonian grebe, Yelkouan shearwater (wintering), Dalmatian Pelican (wintering resident), Lesser white-fronted goose, Red-breasted goose (wintering), Marbled teal, Pochard (wintering, resident), Velvet Scoter (wintering), Greater spotted eagle (wintering), Imperial eagle, Great bustard, Turtle Dove, Aquatic warbler.
It is 20kms north of the highway. Cars can’t access the sanctuary and park at the border. Tours are necessary and can be arranged in the town. I drove to the border but saw few birds as it was November. Many lamp posts have large bird posters for several miles along the highway. 
SAMSUN
Samsun is situated between two river deltas jutting out into the Back Sea, north of Turkey. West of the town the Kizilirmark (the Red River), one of the longest rivers of Anatolia, produced its fertile delta, East of the town the Yesilirmak (the Green River), a river that passes some remarkable towns on its way to the sea, did the same.
People have always been attracted by the combination of fertile ground and shallow waters for a harbor, due to this Samsun has a long history and its myths go back even longer. According to ancient myths, the delta east of Samsun was the land of the Amazons. The geographer Strabo (64 BC-23 AD) describes the Amazons as a people of female warriors. In order to shoot easily with bow and arrow they had one of their breast removed. Amazon is derived from the old Greek and means ‘without breasts’. The Amazons used men from neighboring peoples to reproduce themselves and male children were sent to neighboring peoples. The myths situate the period of the Amazons from about 1200 BC. Fiction or nonfiction, the fact is that the Amazons’ myth spread again under the conquerors in South America. Along the world’s biggest river, a people of female warriors should live. The female warriors were never found but the river was named the Amazon.
History. Greek colonists settled in the 6th century BC and established a flourishing trade with the people of the interior of Asia Minor.
In the 3rd century BC Samsun came under the rule of the expanding Kingdom of Pontus. Initially, the Kingdom of Pontus had been a part of the empire of Alexander the Great that broke up soon after his death in the 4th century BC. At its zenith, the Kingdom of Pontus controlled the north as well as parts of central Anatolia and merchant towns on the northern Black Sea shores.
The Romans took over in 47 BC and were replaced by the Byzantines. The town was captured by the Seljuks (around 1200 AD), taken over by the Ilhanid Mongols and later became part of a Turkish principality. Samsun was incorporated in the network of Genoese trading posts and was taken by the Ottomans in the first part of the 15th century. Before leaving, the Genoese burnt the town to the ground.
Under Ottoman rule the land around the town later mainly produced tobacco. The town was connected to the railway system in the second half of the 19th century and the tobacco trade flourished. Its port had fallen prey to slow decay and despite the tobacco, Samsun became a rather dormant place.
Whatever their size, ports remain important gates for in or exporting new ideas and renovations. Here, on 19 May 1919, a man stepped ashore who would create a Turkish state, change society and even alter a language; this great man was Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. As a result of choosing the losing side in the First World War the Ottoman Empire was in shambles. The victorious Entente powers virtually occupied Istanbul. The Entente didn’t only intend to divide the Empire but had a division of Anatolia in mind as well. The Greeks had visions of a new Hellenic Empire, the French had the Hatay and Syria and desired a part of South-Eastern Anatolia, to the Italians a southern part of Anatolia (Mediterranean region) was promised. The British already had Arabia, Palestine, Lebanon, Jordan, and Iraq.
On 15 May 1919 Greeks forces occupied Smyrna (Izmir). The admiral of the British warships, at anchor offshore, had to order the Greek commander to restore order. A few days later the Italians landed in Antalya, taking a piece of their promised part of Anatolia. The interior of Anatolia however was beyond any control (apart from some Entente, mostly British, detachments and officers) and was in the hands of the remnants of the Ottoman Forces and gangs of Greek or Turkish brigands.
To put an end to this situation the major Entente power involved (Britain) asked the weak Ottoman government to restore law and order in those parts. “If the Ottomans wouldn’t do it, they would” was the threat.
Since the southern rim of Anatolia was more or less under control by British warships and by competing Greek and Italian troops, the restoration of law and order had to be carried out from the north of Anatolia. Here laid the chance for General Mustafa Kemal (the victor of Gallipoli). In 1934 when the Turks had to adopt a surname, he became Atatürk (father of the Turks). Clever manipulation and the help of friends and sympathizers at the right places gave him the chance to become Inspector General of virtually all of the Ottoman forces in Anatolia. He and his carefully selected staff left Istanbul aboard an old steamer for Samsun on the evening of 16 May 1919.
The Inspector General who stepped ashore on 19 May 1919 set up his quarters in the Mintika Palace Hotel. He made the people of Samsun aware of the Greek and Italian landings, staged mass meetings (however he stayed in the background), and made, thanks to the excellent telegraph network, fast connections with the army units in Anatolia. He started to form links between various nationalist groups. He sent telegrams of protest to foreign embassies and the War Ministry about British reinforcements in the area and about British aid to Greek brigand gangs.
In Istanbul, the British became alarmed when they learned that the victor of Gallipoli had been sending as Inspector General and his behavior didn’t make it any better. They urged a recall of the Inspector General. Thanks to friends and sympathizers in government circles a ‘compromise’ was worked out; the power of the Inspector General was curbed, on paper.
However, British and French control officers and the sea with British warships were uncomfortable and close by to keep on acting freely. After a week in Samsun Mustafa Kemal and his staff moved to Havza, about 85 kilometers inland. He did this with the pretext that he was ill and needed the hot springs of Havza to recover.
Today many visitors will find themselves in Samsun mostly for reasons of business or for Atatürk starting there the War of Independence. The dormant town of the times of Atatürk became an important trade centre and has a large modern port. The only thing that didn’t change is the hospitality of Samsun’s inhabitants and the growing of the aromatic Turkish tobacco in the deltas. Few things remind the visitor of the rich past of this town.
The town is pleasant and its centre, Cumhuriyet Meydani (Square of the Republic), is near the port.
Nearby is the Pazar Mosque, Samsun’s oldest building, a mosque built by the Ilhanid Mongols in the 13th century.
Veterans Museum. This is both a museum to Ataturk (about the 5th that I’ve seen) and to the May 19th, 1919, signing of the Declaration of independence of Turkey. There are 100s of photos of the great man including much personal memorabilia – clothes, toilet products, suitcase, desk sets, perfume bottles, shoes, hats, sheets and bedding, and the apartment he lived in. The bit about independence is mostly a diorama of all the men involved. (If only Erdogan could live up to the example he set). Zero English. Free
Statue of Ataturk (Honorary Monument of Samsun). Made of bronze by the Austrian sculptor Heinz Kriphel over 3 years (1928-31). Mustafa Kemal Atatürk gave a major honour to the public of Samsun by landing in Samsun in order to start the War of Independence. Therefore, the citizens erected it to reflect their respect, gratitude, and love to Ataturk.
It is 8.85m high with a pedestal, it is supposedly one of the five best statues of Ataturk, this is him in a military uniform on a horse rearing up on his hind legs. On both sides of the stone pedestal, there are two plaques describing the monument and two bas-reliefs on two sides.
Samsun City Museum. Another rather boring city museum with the usual archaeology, ethnographic exhibits, and history especially concentrating on the Declaration of Independence signing held in Samsun. Free
Göğceli Mosque. 37 km east of Samsun, in the middle of the huge Muslim Tea Göğcel graveyard, this is easily the most unusual mosque I have ever been to. 
The oldest wooden mosque in Turkey, it is a master of wood construction and one of the most significant samples of Turkish wooden architecture. There is no record of the date of construction but according to radiocarbon tests, the mosque was built in 1206, and the porch in front in 1335. Several kinds of trees were used – elm, ash, and chestnut. The planks are approximately 15-18 cm thick, 50-70 cm wide and approximately 12-20m. long. No nails were used in the structure except some wrought iron nails to connect the column heads to the beams and in the annexes. There is a large entrance and then the mosque itself with the roof supported by 6 wood columns and a system of beams.
The interior ceiling decorations of the building date from the early Ottoman period and are classical motifs and composition patterns still quite bright.
The mihrab is a simple wood projection. The minbar is made of huge planks with a carved decorative railing. With only a few tiny square windows, it is quite dim inside.
The base of the building was raised 60-70 cm from the ground using logs placed on big stones. A covered porch surrounds three sides. With no minaret or dome, it is completely portable. The building underwent a comprehensive restoration in 2007 and still serves as a temple today. I was alone.
Giresun Museum, Giresun. In the lovely 19th-century Old Gogora Church, this typical city museum has artifacts dating to the 4th century BC, through the Roman, Byzantine and mostly Ottoman periods – pots, metal, jewelry, rugs, weapons. The cellar has a large collection of different-shaped amphorae. Good English subtitles. Free
TRABZON (pop 318,000)
Trabzon Museum (Hagia Sophia Mosque and Museum). Originally a Byzantine church built in 1238-63, the museum is housed in what is nowadays, the Trabzon Ayasofya Mosque. It was turned into a mosque in 1464 after Fatih Sultan Mehmet conquered Trabzon and served as a mosque for the next 500 years with many restorations but producing little change to the original structure. In WWI, it was used as a depot and hospital, then became a mosque until 1964 when it was turned into a museum, and then became a mosque again in 2013.
It is an excellent example of young Byzantine architecture with a high central dome and cross in a square plan. The entrance narthex opens into 3 naves – a central pentagon and circular ones on the sides. The dodecagon-shaped dome rests on 4 marble covers with surrounding vaults and tiles. The best façade is on the south with a 5-section frieze of Adam and Eve – their birth, life in heaven, forbidden fruit, exile from heaven, and a description of the first murder (Kabil kills Habil).
Most of the figures refer to Bible stories with Jesus in the dome, an angel frieze, the 12 followers of Jesus between the windows, then the birth of Jesus, baptism, crossing day, and scenes from doomsday.
The east side has boats and sails dating from 1450-1850. A 1427 tower was built as a belfry, was a lighthouse and now is a minaret with its original chapel.
Iskenderpasa Mosque. Just east of the main square, this old stone mosque appears to have had 4 building phases – the first for the square bit holding the large dome, the second addition to the front also part of the main prayer area, the third another addition for the porch and the brick minaret that appears to be a rebuild. The mihrab is intricately carved grey stone and the minbar is completely marble with a cone roof and intricate carving. The dome looks painted but the rest of the decoration is badly executed faux marble columns and floral designs.
As I was sitting writing this, the mullah sat beside me, holding up my outstretched hand demonstrating the name of Allah is just like a hand. He asked if I was Islam, Christian? And then fervently expressed his love for Allah.
Most mosques in Turkey seem to be quite busy.
Sumela Monastery. Built in the 4th century, it was active until 1925, it is 45 km south of Trabzon in Altindere Vaddisi Milli Park. It is presently being restored, is surrounded by a chipboard fence and there is little to see.
Vazelon Monastery. 40kms south of Trabzon, access is difficult as the road is ruined requiring a 5km walk. Follow the gravel road and turn left on a small path to the left after about 3 km. The monastery was built in 270 AD. Emperor Justinian repaired it in 565 and it was renovated many times since with the last rebuilding in 1410. It was once wealthy and money from here was used to build Sumela Monastery. The frescoes on the north outer walls of the church of Heaven, Hell, and the Last Judgement are original and beautiful. The monastery was attacked and ruined many times, mainly by Persians (490 AD, 400 residents killed) and Turks (razed many times by the Ottomans including in 1821 when diplomacy and the monastery’s tremendous wealth were used to avoid the massacre of the 40 surrounding Christian villages. In 1922, it was totally destroyed and is now a ruin. Only one item remains of the monastery, an icon of St John the Forerunner, now in the Leningrad Museum. The Greek population was expelled in 1922 as part of the population exchange between Greece and Turkey.
Çifte Bridges, Arhavi. 12½ km south of the highway, these are two wonderful pedestrian ridges. The main river, the Orçi Stream comes from the east valley and is joined by the Arhavi Creek coming from the south. The virtually identical stone bridges have high arches, steps with steep inclines, and long piers at each end. The entrances are wide and narrow to beds about 2m wide. A ½m tall wall flanks the walkway. Road bridges run beside each, making these redundant – I imagine they were built first. 
Dikyamac Museum, Dikyamac. To access this town, cross both road bridges and climb about 4 km up a steep switchback road with an elevation gain of about 550m (Google Maps says it is 6.5 km.) I arrived with 2 couples having breakfast on the patio outside the museum and they invited me to join them. They obviously didn’t speak English but we talked for over 30 minutes. One woman had high blood pressure and showed me all her pills. I showed them my van. I ate the delicious food. One guy bummed 2 smokes and pissed off his wife. A large diorama is on the patio showing 4 men waking with a dog. The doctor is carrying a child on his back sitting on a chair.
The large museum has two rooms and appears to be the work of the man. It has a little bit of every ethnographic item possible but especially a wealth of woodworking tools and household items, also several manikins with traditional dress and large charts of genealogy trees. I got the guided tour. They were lovely people. 10 TL
When I drove back, an electrical crew was stringing wires on the overhead poles, so I had a long wait.
NOMAD MANIA Turkey – Black Sea Central and East (Samsun, Trabzon, Amasya, Giresun)
Tentative WHS
Kızılırmak Delta Wetland and Bird Sanctuary (13/04/2016)
Sümela Monastery (The Monastery of Virgin Mary) (25/02/2000)
Sights: Uzungöl
Borders
Georgia-Turkey
Turkey (sea border/port)
XL: Macahel Valley villages
Airports: Ordu Giresun (OGU)
Museums
Dikyamac: Dikyamac Museum
Giresun: Giresun Museum
Gümüşhane: Ikizevler City Museum
Rize: Rize Atatürk Museum
House Museums/Plantations: Ünye House Museum
World of Nature
Altindere
Kackar
Festivals: Tonya: Kadirga Festival
Windmills
Hamsiköy
Maralkoy
Pedestrian Bridges: Arhavi: Çifte Bridge
Cities of Asia and Oceania
SAMSUN World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Samsun (SZF)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Samsun Tram
Museums
Samsun Museum
Veterans Museum
Religious Temples: Samsun: Göğceli Mosque
Monuments: Samsun: Statue of Ataturk
TRABZON World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Trabzon (TZX)
Museums: Trabzon: Trabzon Museum
Religious Temples
Iskenderpasa Mosque
Sumela Monastery
Vazelon Monastery
