Guyana mostly consists of rolling highlands with a low coastal plain and savannah in the south. The highest point is Mount Roraima at 2,835 m.
The name Guyana (from Arawak Wayana) means “Land of many waters.”
Capital: Georgetown
Population: 743,700 2019 (164th)
Area: 743,700 (164th)
Money. Guyanese dollar, denoted $ GYD. 1€ = 237.7; 1US$ = 209; 1CAD$ = 165 (xe.com Jan 2022). The currency is freely convertible but nearly impossible to get rid of outside Guyana. Costs are relatively very high, as most things used in daily life are imported with high transportation costs involved. ATMs and credit cards work well.
Ethnic Groups: 39.8% Indian, 29.3% African, 19.9% Multiracial, 10.5% Indigenous, 0.3% European, 0.2% Chinese
Language: Official English. Also Guyanese Creole and 10 indigenous languages.
Religion: 62.7% Christianity, 24.8% Hinduism, 6.8% Islam, 3.1% No religion, 2.6% Others
Independence: 1970, part of the Commonwealth
GDP (PPP) per capita: $23,258 (64th)
Gini: 44.6 medium
Driving: Left
Country code: +592
Electric: North American 2-prong
Visa: Free on arrival. No travel pass or registration was necessary.
Observations on Guyana
1. This is a relatively impoverished nation. Many people sell things on the street in an effort to eke out a living. There is not much to do. I would have left by Jan 7 except I could not book a trip to Kaieteur Falls until Saturday the 8th.
2. Covid. A 72-hour PCR was required to enter. Wearing masks outdoors is not mandatory but many do. Hand sanitizer and temperature checks are very common and mandatory in most businesses. Most attractions are shut down, even the zoo and botanical garden, both outdoor venues.
Guyana – Coastal (Georgetown, New Amsterdam, Corriverton) Jan 4-9, 2022
Day 1
I flew on Caribbean Air from Port of Spain, Trinidad on Jan 3 to Georgetown leaving at 10:45 pm. The large plane was relatively empty until 3 teams of cricket players boarded. There is an under 19 world cricket tournament occurring in the south Caribbean area (Guyana, Trinidad, St Kitts, and one other country) between now and the first week of February. The plane left late and we arrived at the Georgetown Airport (25 km south of the city) at 00:30. We then waited for our luggage to arrive for over 2 hours and it never did. It took a while to figure out what happened. The cricket teams were bubbled in the Ramada Hotel and all our luggage went there with them.
I wandered over to departures and managed to sleep on a padded bench for about 2 hours. The building was heavily air-conditioned and it was quite cool. It turned out that we had to contact a manager of the tournament to get our luggage delivered. Caribbean Air (who was totally at fault over the mix-up) contacted them and gave them the name of my hotel, Julian Guest House where my pack would be delivered. Between 4 and 6 am, I found an ATM (outside the airport down a narrow street and withdrew 30,000 GYD and basically waited till light.
Instead of a 4000 GD taxi, I caught a share van the 40 km into the city for 300 GD. With 12-16 passengers, it was a high-speed ride with ear-splitting rock music (the speaker was under my seat at the back). I got out at Stabroek Market and had a long walkabout seeing everything on the NM list on the north side of the city near the water.
I then walked to my guest house Julian Restaurant, Bar and Guesthouse, US$40/night), arriving at 10:30, and checking in. I have a lovely room at the front next to a veranda.
GEORGETOWN (pop 200,000)
Most tourists visit Georgetown as a launching point to the rainforests of the interior.
Founded as a small Dutch settlement in the 18th century, Georgetown has changed hands between the British, Dutch, and French many times – not unusual for places in or near the Caribbean. Sitting on the shore of the Atlantic, the city is one metre below sea level and protected by a seawall from the ocean. The city with its surroundings has a notable network of canals, a few wide and many narrow ones on most streets.
Georgetown has an abundance of tree-lined streets and avenues and contains many wooden colonial buildings and markets. Most of the main buildings are found around the western region of the town near Independence Square and Promenade Gardens.
Umana Yama Church (Amerindian cultural centre Memorial to the liberation of the slaves). The cultural centre forms a huge traditional Wai-Wai (native American tribe) hut.
Some of the older colonial buildings around town, especially on Main Street. Historical buildings along High Street and Avenue of the Republic include the City Hall, City Engineer’s Office, Victoria Law Courts, Magistrates’ Courts, Saint Andrew Church (Georgetown’s oldest church), State House (residence of the prime minister).
The local seawall may be unimpressive, but it protects a city that lies 1 metre below high-tide level. The sea wall, which helps prevent flooding and drainage is aided by canals protected by sluices, was built by the Dutch and later the British.
Stabroek Market. Dating back to 1881, the interesting design of this iron structure and clock tower certainly make it the most recognizable of buildings in the city centre. Keep an eye on your wallet. Cookshops. The best for local foods, day time only.
Surrounded by street vendors selling produce, this huge market had many shuttered stalls. I had a lovely breakfast of pizza, coffee, and a large sugar doughnut.
Starbroek is also a transportation hub, with vans, minibusses, and commuter buses all gathering there. This means two things: there is a lot of traffic, and there are pick pockets.
Georgetown’s Plantation Structure and Historic Buildings (28/01/2005). The Parliament Building dates back to 1829. All the buildings line Avenue of the Republic, a 4-land divided city street with a boulevard down the middle. All are 3-story wood buildings with a middle veranda. Pass the Supreme Court and City Engineering building before reaching the city hall.
Parliament Building. Dates to 1834 and is home to the National Assembly of Guyana.
City Hall, Georgetown (15/11/1995). Gothic Revival building dating from 1889 is said to be “the most picturesque structure” in Georgetown as its three stories are each quite high and is fronted by a tower with a steeple roof. It is in a very dilapidated state with peeling paint presently surrounded by a corrugated metal fence and is apparently being renovated. It has apparently been closed for about 3 months.
St. Georges Anglican Cathedral (15/11/1995). Is one of the most iconic buildings in the city and when completed was the tallest wooden church in the world, its tower reaching a height of 143 feet. It held this record until 2003 when the 246-feet-tall Peri Monastery near Săpânţa in northern Romania was completed. Built between 1892-96, this cathedral is as attractive inside as out. Painted white, it has pointed arched windows, vaulted ceilings, and beautiful colonial architecture. The main structure is built from greenheart trees, a native of Guyana, very hard and virtually fireproof and bug resistant (quite important, in this tropical country!).
The beautifully carved Bishop’s Throne was given by a Mrs. Manget in commemoration of the Bishop’s Jubilee. The Diocese of Barbados gifted the brass lectern, shaped in the form of an eagle. From the Howell-Jones family, proprietors of the Houston Sugar Estate came the iron pulpit. Chinese Christians donated the sedilia, and other benefactors provided the great east windows and other stained glass windows. Even Queen Victoria showed her appreciation for the cathedral, donating the large chandelier that still hangs prominently in St. George’s.
The church is currently under renovation. The exterior appears freshly painted a beautiful sheer white. A chain-link fence surrounds the structure and it has a sign that it is under renovation. I asked several people and they said it is only open on Sunday mornings.
I bought a coffee and sat on a low concrete wall that soon became a local market. There are no street cafes or places to sit. The streets are crowded with people selling stuff and just trying to get by.
Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology. Two floors show the Amerindian heritage of Guyana. There are artifacts, exhibits, photographs, many stuffed animals, and a lot of reading material. The permanent exhibition is laid out on two floors. There are plenty of stuffed and preserved animals, as well as reptiles and birds and an entire exhibit dedicated to the giant sloth, who lived in the region during the Ice Age and was more than 4 meters tall. Free
Georgetown Lighthouse. Originally built by the Dutch in 1817 and then rebuilt in 1830, this beacon has a colourful pattern of vertical red and white stripes.
Monument to the 1823 Demerara Uprising. This slave rebellion involved 13,000 slaves from 37 plantations on Plantation Success in Georgetown. On Aug 20, 1834, troops shot 150 slaves and between August 23 and January 19, 51 slaves were sentenced to death and hung on the gallows on the Parade Ground. Their decapitated heads were displayed on the roundwasys of east Guyana.
I passed this small monument on my way to the Mandir.
Radha Krishna Mandir. Gives valuable insight into Hindu culture. Established in 2007, the temple features a light blue facade and a similarly colored interior. The temple complex includes several smaller shrines, filled with statues of Hindu deities, and used to celebrate various religious festivals. 
Day 2
I went on another walk about south of my hotel on my way to the Roraima Airlines office to book and pay for the Kaieteur Waterfall tour.
Queenstown Jama Masjid. The outside has a large green onion dome and 2 massive minarets (a square base, hexagonal middle, and square top). The prayer hall is large with 4 columns supporting the flat ceiling with a decorative crest. The mihrab has gold and silver mosaics.
Museum of African Heritage. Opened in 1994 with the donations of two individuals, this museum on the second floor has several lovely pieces, mostly wood but some metal and woven baskets from several African countries, Guyana and Surinam. I was shown around on a very nice guided tour. Free
Guyana zoo is located within the grounds of the gardens is a very small zoo with DIY cages for the animals. A lot of the cages are too small. Has some interesting animals including anteaters and manatees.
Guyana Botanical Gardens. A large free garden where families and people hang out. Birdwatching and see Victoria Lilies, huge water liliesVictoria Lilies – Guyana’s national flower, they are huge lilies that apparently can hold a weight of more than 45 Kg. The park is a place to see birds, Victorian-era bridges (sometimes called kissing bridges in reference to newlyweds getting photos taken there), manatees, and palms.
Guyana National Gallery of Art in Castellani house (National Art Collection), named after its architect. This building served as the residence of the prime minister in 1965-85, was rebuilt in 1993 and since it houses the national gallery, showcasing the history of Guyana, with explanations about Amerindian culture; others about colonial expansion and finally about the post-colonial times. It is a rather plain 3-story white mansion near the gardens and zoo. Other galleries show paintings and sculptures of Guyanese artists and a large collection of gold. Free
The 1763 Monument. This monument commemorates the 1763 Great Rebellion slave revolt, the first true organized attempt by slaves to fight for their freedom. It started on Plantation Magdelenenburg in Berbice in February 1763. This was organized by a household slave named Cuffy from Plantation Lilienburg who organized riots at several plantations that lasted for more than a year.
The monument consists of a 4.6m high cast bronze African man – depicted like the “Hulk”. He has a shield-like face on his chest and map of Guyana on his back. The 5.5m high plinth is cast concrete with cascading waterfalls (when the water is running) falling into a pool that surrounds the base. It was inaugurated in 1976.
Day 3
Demerara Harbour Bridge. Pontoon bridge built in 1978 that is the only connection between Georgetown and West Demerara. It’s a 6,074-foot (1,851 m) long floating toll bridge. The bridge crosses the Demerara River 4 miles (6.4 km) south of Georgetown, from Peter’s Hall, Demerara-Mahaica, East Bank Demerara to Schoon Ord, Essequibo Islands-West Demerara. There is a pedestrian footwalk. A raised section lets small vessels pass under. A retractor span lets large vessels pass.
The bridge has 61 spans. A high-level span provides a horizontal clearance of 32.0 metres (105 ft) and a vertical clearance of 7.9 metres (26 ft) to let small craft pass at all times. To let large craft pass, two retractor spans retract fully once per day to leave a horizontal clearance of 77.4 metres.
The bridge was only designed to last 10 years, yet it is still in use. Tolls are collected only in east-to-west travel even though the bridge handles one lane of traffic in each direction. On Monday 23 July 2012 at 06:45 Span 61, the western retractor span collapsed during maintenance work, causing it to partly sink, trapping a minibus. No injuries resulted but as all the larger ferries are decommissioned it caused major disruption.
Fort Zeelandia (including Court of Policy Building) (15/11/1995) is located on Fort Island, a fluvial island of the Essequibo River delta. Not to be confused with Fort Zeelandia in Paramaribo, Suriname, the current brick fort was built in 1743 for the Essequibo colony, replacing an earlier wooden fort built in 1726, and is among the oldest structures in Guyana.
The small fort is a 15 x 20 m structure surrounded by four ramparts at each corner. Constructed during the Dutch possession of the region, the fort was a vital defensive fortification strategically located at the mouth of the Essequibo River.
In 1726, it was resolved that a fort should be constructed to protect the planters and the interest of the Dutch West India Company (DWIC). In 1726, a horn work with a wooden redoubt and a strong palisade of the northern point of Vlaggeneiland (Flag Island) was built. In August 1738, it was reported that the structure was falling to pieces. Construction commenced in 1740 and, with the labour of enslaved Africans, the structure was completed in 1743. Brick was baked on the spot and mortar and trass were imported from Barbados and the Netherlands. However, the entire complex was completed in 1749, since construction was delayed as a result of the shortage of building materials and labour. The completed structure was then christened Fort Zeelandia, after the County of Zeeland in the Netherlands, from which many of the original settlers had originated.
The Lozenge-shaped design of the fort is similar to other forts constructed in West Africa during that period. Fort Zeelandia consisted of a redoubt of fifty square feet, with walls thick enough to endure the heaviest ordnance. There were two stories; the lower served as a warehouse for provisions and a safe powder house whilst the upper floor housed the soldiers, with a room for the non-commissioned officers. Twenty gunports, each holding a 2 or 3-pounder gun, were found in each story.
By 1781, during the Fourth Anglo-Dutch War, the fort was no longer in a fit state to be of any use. When some six British privateers arrived in late February 1781, the Council at Essequibo instructed Captain Severyn, the commander of the fort, that if the British sailed towards the colony, he was to fire a blank shot. If that did not cause them to stop, he was to fire a Pro-forma shot and surrender. The privateers captured 16 Dutch vessels and sailed away. A few days later, two British sloops-of-war, HMS Barbuda and HMS Surprize, that Admiral Lord Rodney had sent appeared at Demerara and Essequibo and accepted their surrender. The British takeover was short-lived, as the French occupied the island in the following year. The Dutch regained control of the fort two years later and, by 1796, the fort went into a long period of decline, as attention shifted towards the colony of Demerara.
This site, along with the Court of Policy Building, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tentative List on November 15, 1995.
Other destinations in Georgetown
The seawall. To be honest, there isn’t much to see at the seawall other than the ocean, which sadly is of a brown, muddy color. But it is one of the first historical landmarks of the city, connected with its colonial past, and it runs for miles and miles along the coast and keeps Georgetown dry (the city is 1m below sea level.
El Dorado Rum Distillery. All Caribbean countries produce rum. Demerara, where Demerara Sugar comes from, is right here! This is one of the finest sugars in the world: it has large grains; it’s fairly crunchy and has a natural caramel color and flavor. A tour of El Dorado includes a short visit to the museum, where the old distilling machines are exposed, and of the enormous aging cellar. The best part, however, is the tasting – which includes three samples of different aging. My favorite was actually the youngest one, El Dorado Cask Aged 5 Years:
Independence Arch. This monument celebrates Guyana’s independence from the British Empire in 1966, interestingly it was a gift by the British Queen. It is an unassuming arch of three metal half hoops over a road.
St. Andrew’s Kirk. Completed in 1818, Dutch Reformed Church.
Mashramani. An Amerindian word meaning “celebration after hard work”, this event takes place each 23rd of February as the country’s republic anniversary celebration. It’s a carnival-like event with float parades and costumed bands. Colourful float parades and costume bands wind their way through the city. While you look on, have a swig of local rum with coconut water or have some Banks beer, all the while swaying and wining to the beat of the soca and calypso.
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Guyana – Inland (Lethem, Linden, Kaieteur)
Kaieteur Falls. It is 5x the height of Niagara Falls, c. 250 m tall (731 feet free fall and 750 total, 122m wide at the maximal flow of 136,200 litres/second) located on the Potaro River in Kaieteur National Park in the center of Guyana’s rainforest. Its combination of great height and high water volume makes it one of the most impressive waterfalls in the world. The falls are on the Guyana Shield, sedimentary rock 2.2 billion years old. Maximal flow is in the rainy season April to early July. The flight goes over virgin rain forest for most of the way except for ugly scars along the river with settling ponds that I assume are the remnants of gold mining operations.
It is accessed by a 60-minute plane flight to Kaieteur International Airport, a 1500′ long airstrip 15 minutes walk from the waterfalls. Elevation 1500′ above sea level. Trips leave from Ogle Airport. The water in the ocean off Guyana is a muddy brown for a long ways out because of sediment from the Demerara River. Various tour companies offer the day trip, only operate on Saturdays and/or Sundays in the off-season, require a minimum number of passengers (anything between 10 and 12), and don’t depart if weather conditions are not good. Booking ahead is advisable. US$250.
Kaieteur Falls day tours are pretty much all organized the same way, as the National Park only has one airstrip and each flight is allowed two hours on the ground inside the park. A guide meets visitors and takes them to the 3 viewpoints overlooking the falls (Boy Scout and Rainbow viewpoints are the best). Two viewpoints have been closed as they are too close to the waterfalls. The view changes ever so slightly from each lookout point, but it’s always impressive. The guided visit also includes a walk in the forest, to spot the famous cock-of-the-rock, golden frogs and other wildlife, and flora. Bring mosquito repellent.
Make sure to sit on the right-hand side of the plane on the way back, as this gives you one last view of the waterfalls from above seen almost immediately after taking off.
It is important to contact one of the companies below as soon as you know your available dates as the tours book out early (I phoned Roraima Airlines on Wednesday for the Saturday trip and just make it in. I had missed the Wednesday trip that was available that week).
Roraima Airways. Offer trips primarily on Saturday and Sunday but sometimes on Wednesday, daily in the summer or when there is demand. $245. Must pay in person (cash or credit card) at the Geogetown locaion of Roraima Airlines (Roraima Residence Inn R8 Eting Road, Belair Park 592 225 9648; tours.roraimaairway@gmail.com). Arrive at 8 am at the Roraima Office at Ogle Airport for the 9 am departure. They also offer a combined Kaieteur Falls and Orindiuk Falls trip ($350)
Evergreen Tours. Trips Saturday and Sunday. Leave from Ogle Airport. 592 222 2525
reservations@evergreenadventuresgy.com
Wilderness Explorers. Offer trips on Saturday and Sunday. $248. 892 227 7698
I went on Jan 8, 2022, with Roraima Airlines from Ogle Airport. Checked in at 8 and flew at 9. Had a beautiful weather day. Met by a guide for a great 2-hour walk to three viewpoints of waterfall – today at about 70% of its maximum flow. Saw a golden frog and 2 cock of the rock birds, a bright orange bird that the male performs dances and posturing at Leks, large boulders or cold, dark caves.
Dragon Tours offers a 5-day overland journey, Price $300 to $500.
Day 1: Drive to Madhya and Pamela landing stage on the Potaro River.
Day 2: Pamela Landing-Amatuk-Waratuk. 7:00 a.m. departure by boat to Amatuk Falls, swim and change to another boat above the falls and camp at Waratuk Falls. 2 to 3-hour nature hike. Overnight in hammocks.
Day 3: Eight-hour hike from Waratuk Falls to Tukiet, camp, swim in the Potaro River, and see Kaieteur Gorge.
Day 4: Kaieteur Falls
From Tukiet climb to the top of Kaieteur Falls, a four-hour hike that winds through the mountains and streams to the final stage known as “Oh My God” because of its steep ascent. On top get the first glimpse of Kaieteur Falls. At dusk clouds of thousands of swifts gather before plunging into the water of the falls to their rocky nesting sites behind the wall of water. Overnight at Kaieteur Guest House.
Day 5: Return to Georgetown
Early morning at Johnson View. See the golden frogs which live in giant tank bromeliads. See the cock of the rock. In the afternoon fly back to Georgetown by plane. The prices vary between $300 and $500.
WEST GUYANA
Shell Beach (Almond Beach) Essequibo Coast Tentative WHS (15/11/1995)
Jonestown Site. In the NM The Dark Side series. A historic site near Port Kaituma. It is wise to have a local accompany you as the area is heavily forested and is easy to get lost in.
EAST GUYANA
East Berbice-Corentyne south (Oronoque). XL
Berbice River
Berbice Bridge, New Amsterdam:
63 Beach Berbice
GETTING TO SURINAM
Requirements:
1. Covid double vaccination
2. Antigen test only (not a PCR) 48 hours ahead.
3. Yellow Fever Vaccination
4. Surinam E-visa (apply for an E-Visa for Suriname)
A ferry crosses the border leaving once per day at 10.00 am.
Georgetown to the ferry: Arrange a pick-up with a local transport company called ‘Dugla’ (+592 612 8047) at least 24 hours in advance. Tell them you need to get from Georgetown to Paramaribo. The pick-up will be around 04:00 am by a minivan that picks up passengers from around town before heading for the border.
The minivan turned up at 04:15 am. It’s a new van with A/C and comfortable seats. By the time we had picked up all passengers, we left Georgetown and crossed the bridge at around 06:15 am. We arrived at the ferry terminal at 09:00 and the ferry
Cost:Minivan: 6000 GYD includes the minivan from Georgetown to the ferry and from the border in Suriname to your accommodation in Paramaribo, Suriname. Pay the driver the total amount listed above once you reach the ferry. He gives you a ticket that you show to the guy on the other side with the transport to take you to Paramaribo. It’s all very well organized. The price does not include the ferry ride.
Ferry USD $15 in GYD or USD paid directly to the ferry. Cash only. Takes 30-45 minutes
Transport from Suriname border to Paramaribo.
Need an E-visa for Suriname and a yellow fever certificate.
Once you disembark the ferry, it’s a very short walk to line up at the customs building. Walk past the taxi drivers and into the small carpark to meet another van. If you have some Surinamese currency, there is a small food shack here that does some very good packed lunches of nasi goreng (fried rice) and marinated chicken $3.
The drive to Paramaribo is about 3.5 hours in a comfortable minivan and they will take you directly to your address in Paramaribo.
Paramaribo is a great city with lots of Dutch colonial architecture and some great places to eat too.
Budget hotel: Guesthouse De Kleine Historie – This place is located right in the centre of the city, has glowing reviews and rates from $20 per night include a continental breakfast
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GUYANA FACTS
Climate. Tropical with the hot, humid conditions moderated by northeast trade winds. There are two distinct rainy seasons: May to mid-August and mid-November to mid-January. Flash floods are a constant threat during these rainy seasons.
History. It was a Dutch colony in the 17th century, but by 1815 Guyana had become a British possession. The abolition of slavery led to the purchase of some villages such as Victoria and Anns Grove, as well as black settlement of urban areas and the importation of indentured servants from India to work the sugar plantations. Today, the descendants of these indentured Indian laborers form a plurality of Guyana’s population. Chinese were also imported to work on plantations but were found to be unsuitable. The colonial powers employed a system of “divide and rule” among the freed Africans and members of the other ethnic groups who were brought and encouraged to settle in the then-colony. The policy was employed even during slavery when indigenous Amerindians were used to hunt runaway slaves. The result was an ethnocultural divide, significant elements of which have persisted to this day and have led to turbulent politics, the dissolution of attempts at national cultural development, and the non-existence of anything resembling a “national identity”.
Guyana achieved independence from the UK in 1966, but until the early 1990s, it was ruled mostly by socialist-oriented governments. In 1992, Cheddi Jagan was elected president, in what is considered the country’s first free and fair election since independence. Upon his death five years later, he was succeeded by his wife, Janet, who resigned in 1999 due to poor health. Her successor, Bharrat Jagdeo, was re-elected in 2001 and again in 2006.
GET IN
Visa Free for 90 days for Canadians and is free on arrival at the Georgetown Airport.
By plane. Cheddi Jagan International Airport. (GEO) about 40 km south of Georgetown. International flights to Trinidad and Tobago (Caribbean Airlines), Panama, Suriname, and the USA with Caribbean Airlines, American, Eastern Airlines, and JetBlue
By road. Guyana has mini-bus road access to South Drain by daily ferry in western Suriname and Paramaribo, Suriname to the east and Brazil to the south (bus from Lethem, at the Brazilian border, to Georgetown, takes about 10 hours through the rainforest and southern savannah. The ride can be much longer in the rainy season. Sections impassable in heavy rainy weather).
GET AROUND
Buses are minibuses, travel throughout Guyana, and are the cheapest way to travel. Many parts of Guyana are separated by large rivers and can be traversed by river taxis.
In Georgetown, these are cheap and the only way to go. A taxi from the airport was 4000 GD and a shared van was 300. Stand by the side of the road with your hand out and you won’t wait long.
Language. The only official language is English
Food. The national dish of Guyana is pepperpot (slow-cooked stew of pork (or other meats), red peppers, cinnamon, and cassareep, dark in colour and strongly flavoured and usually reserved for special occasions such as Christmas. Guyanese food is a creole fusion with Indian the dominant cuisine and Chinese common, Brazilian BBQ
Drink. The most popular national drink is Caribbean-style dark rum.
Sleep. In Georgetown, none of the “luxury” options – primarily the Pegasus and the Princess, justify the cost. Tiny guesthouses and pay-by-the-hour places have lower prices.
Many private accommodations are much more affordable than the ones listed online.
Julian Guesthouse. 331 Cummings St. 226 3552. Has a restaurant and bar. US$ 40/night. This is where I stayed. Very good. Fan only but more than adequate in January when I was there.
Tropicana Hotel. Cheapest place to stay in Georgetown. It’s just above a bar, so there’s loud music till late at night. There’s also no attempt to limit mosquitoes or other insects. No air-conditioning, fan only.
Rima guesthouse, 92 Middle Street, ☏ +592 225 7401, +592 226 7106, ✉ rima@networksgy.com. Popular backpacker hostel. Clean and beautifully decorated rooms, shared bathroom, nice common area.
Armoury Villa Hostel & Guest House, 62-63 Newhaven Belair, ☏ +592 628 5362. Lodging with wifi, a/c, gym, kitchen, TV/games, cooking premises, balcony.
DO
Performance in the National Cultural Center
Demerara Rum Distillery, East Bank Public Road
The central shopping area is bounded by Hadfield Street on the South of the city, Water Street to the West, Albert Street to the East, and Middle Street to the North. Most of the city’s stores, supermarkets, boutiques, and restaurants can be found within this zone.
Lots of locally made and beautiful crafts ranging from paintings; to sculpture; to leather purses, satchels, wallets; hand-painted, tie-dyed, and batik(ed) fabrics, pressed flowers, sun hats; semi-precious stones, and hand-crafted costume jewelry using indigenous materials, can be purchased at an esplanade outside the Central Post-Office near the National Museum in downtown Georgetown. Guyana is also noted for its exceptional gold jewelry.
Fogarty’s Department Store, 34-37 Water St. (behind the Nationalmuseum). Wonderful old-style supermarket on the first floor, other products on the second.
Safety. Georgetown is notorious for petty street crime. Do not walk alone at night, or even during the day, unless you know the area well. Areas such as the Tiger Bay area east of Main Street and the entire southeastern part of the city including, in particular, Albouystown and Ruimveldt are traditionally known as high crime areas but one can be relatively safe if going through these areas in groups and with native escorts. Venturing into the covered area of the Stabroek Market can pose some dangers but if you need to visit it then do so with a group or with Guyanese whom you know well and with whom you feel comfortable. Police are unlikely to help you unless they see the crime in action. Be sensible about wearing jewelry. Even cosmetic jewelry which is gaudy is likely to attract the wrong attention. It is advised to exercise common sense.
Buxton. A hotbed of Afro-Guyanese violence, comparable to the American neighbourhood Compton south of Los Angeles. Visits to Buxton ought to be brokered carefully with someone who knows the area well and who is well accepted in the village. If your visit to this village is perceived to be anything other than casual then there could be unwarranted problems. There are a lot of gangs and drug dealers there. Many Indo-Guyanese villages such as Cane Grove, Annadale, and Lusignan, are notorious for violence, petty crimes, racism, and kidnappings. It is advisable for tourists or people who are not of Indo-Guyanese origin traveling through these areas should also be accompanied by someone known in these areas.
Crime is rarely directed at tourists, so don’t feel intimidated. Just be sensible about the company you keep, where you go, and how you behave.
The interior regions with breathtaking waterfalls, beautiful rainforests, and mountains are safe.
Health. Do not drink tap water, take anti-malarial medications only if going inland.
Yellow fever is endemic to this area with monkeys a reservoir and vaccination only necessary if coming from a country with Yellow Fever. Mosquito repellent. Malaria and dengue fever in the interior.
Go next
Brazil – Access to Brazil is via Lethem on Interserv buses on buses that leave late at night.
Suriname can be reached via minibuses and a ferry, or by a short flight from Cheddi Jagan Temeri International airport or Ogle airport.
Trinidad and the rest of the Lesser Antilles is a short flight away via Caribbean Airlines.
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Guyana – Coastal (Georgetown, New Amsterdam, Corriverton)
NOMAD MANIA Guyana – Coastal (Georgetown, New Amsterdam, Corriverton)
Tentative WHS: Shell Beach (Almond Beach) Essequibo Coast (15/11/1995)
Islands
Corocoro
Wakenaam
Borders: Guyana (sea border/port/river)
XL
East Berbice-Corentyne south (Oronoque)
Essequibo estuary islands (Leguan, Hog)
Rivers
Amacuro River
Berbice River
Courantyne/Corantijn River
Demerara River
Essequibo River
Festivals: Mashramani
Beaches
63 Beach Berbice
Shell Beach
The Dark Side: Jonestown Site
Cities of the Americas
GEORGETOWN World Capital, World City and Popular Town
Tentative WHS
City Hall, Georgetown (15/11/1995)
Fort Zeelandia (including Court of Policy Building) (15/11/1995)
Georgetown’s Plantation Structure and Historic Buildings (28/01/2005)
St. Georges Anglican Cathedral (15/11/1995)
Airports
Georgetown – Cheddi Jagan (GEO)
Georgetown – Ogle (OGL)
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Demerara Harbour Bridge
Museums
Guyana National Museum
Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Fort Island: Fort Zeelandia
Religious Temples
Queenstown Jama Masjid
Radha Krishna Mandir
St. George’s Cathedral Tentative WHS (15/11/1995)
Modern Architecture Buildings: Bank of Guyana
Zoos: Guyana Zoological Park
Botanical Gardens: Guyana Botanical Gardens
Lighthouses: Georgetown Lighthouse
Markets: Stabroek Market
Monuments: The 1763 Monument
Guyana – Inland (Lethem, Linden, Kaieteur)
NOMAD MANIA Guyana – Inland (Lethem, Linden, Kaieteur)
Borders: Brazil-Guyana
XL
Bartica
East Berbice-Corentyne south (Oronoque)
World of Nature
Iwokrama Forest
Iwokrama Forest and Rupununi Wetlands
Kaieteur NP
Kanuku Mountains Conservation Area
Lakes
Lago de Forno
Lake Amuku
Lamparina Lake
Rivers
Berbice River
Courantyne/Corantijn River
Demerara River
Essequibo River
Potaro River
Festivals: Mashramani
Waterfalls: Kaieteur Falls
