EGYPT – General

Egypt extends into Asia at the Sinai Peninsula. Egypt is bordered by Israel and the Gaza Strip to the north-east, by Sudan to the south and by Libya to the west. The country is bounded by the Mediterranean and Red Seas (to the north and east respectively) and geographically dominated both by the Nile River and its fertile well-watered valley, and by the Eastern and Western deserts.
Egypt is perhaps best known as the home of the ancient Egyptian civilization, with its temples, hieroglyphs, mummies, and – visible above all – its pyramids. Less well-known is Egypt’s medieval heritage, courtesy of Coptic Christianity and Islam – ancient churches, monasteries and mosques punctuate the Egyptian landscape. Egypt stimulates the imagination of western tourists like few other countries and is probably one of the most popular tourist destinations world-wide.

Tourism. Ever since the 2011 revolution, tourism (which provides about 15% of employment in Egypt, so one-sixth of the population are reliant upon it) has taken a major hit. Because of the downturn in tourism, expect more persistent and aggressive touts, but prices are lower and you can avoid the gigantic crowds that, at other periods, were typically overflowing the marvellous sites.
The more recent counter-revolution and Military putsch, like many events of its sort, has brought repression, death sentences and imprisonment for many Egyptians (and foreign journalists) but has resulted in lower crime and reduced disruption for well-heeled foreign tourists.

History
The regularity and richness of the annual Nile River flood, coupled with semi-isolation provided by deserts to the east and west, allowed for the development of one of the world’s great civilizations. A unified kingdom arose around 3200 BC and a series of dynasties ruled in Egypt for the next three millennia. The last native dynasty fell to the Persians in 341 BC, who in turn were replaced by the Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines.
It was the Arabs who introduced Islam and the Arabic language in the 7th century and who ruled for the next six centuries. A local military caste, the Mamluks, took control about 1250 and continued to govern after the conquest of Egypt by the Ottoman Turks in 1517. Following the completion of the Suez Canal in 1869, Egypt became an important world transportation hub, but also fell heavily into debt. Ostensibly to protect its investments, Britain seized control of Egypt’s government in 1882, but nominal allegiance to the Ottoman Empire continued until 1914. Partially independent from the UK in 1922, Egypt acquired full sovereignty following World War II. The completion of the Aswan High Dam in 1971 and the resultant Lake Nasser have altered the time-honoured place of the Nile River in agriculture and the ecology of Egypt. A rapidly growing population (the largest in the Arab world), limited arable land, and dependence on the Nile all continue to overtax resources and stress society. The government has struggled to prepare the economy for the new millennium through economic reform and massive investment in communications and physical infrastructure.

Climate. Egypt is largely a desert, an extension of the great Sahara that bands North Africa. Save for the thin strip of watered land along the Nile River broadening into the Nile delta, very little could survive here. Generally, the summers are hot and dry and the winters, moderate. November through March are definitely the most comfortable months for travel in Egypt. There is almost no rain in the Nile valley.
The north coast along the Mediterranean Sea 50km southwards receives some of the most heavy rain in the country during winter months.
Visitors should be aware that most houses and apartments in Cairo and Egypt do not have central heating
Terrain. Egypt consists of a vast desert plateau interrupted by the Nile valley and delta, along with the Sinai peninsula. Portions of the Nile River valley are bounded by steep rocky cliffs, while the banks are relatively flat in other areas, allowing for agricultural production.
Language.  Official: Standard Arabic. The national lingua franca is Egyptian Arabic, one of the numerous (mostly mutually unintelligible) local dialects of Arabic.
As Egypt was a British colony until 1952, most educated locals learn English at school. Travellers are unlikely to encounter difficulties finding someone who speaks English.
Ask “Do you speak English?”, better if you can do it in Egyptian Arabic: betek-kal-lem ’engelīzi? (addressing a male) or betek-kal-limi ’engelīzi? (addressing a female). Also “ehh-ill-kallam?” -That’s how Egyptians say “what’s up?”
Money. Egyptian pound (EGP), often written as LE, (French livre égyptienne) or by using the pound sign £ with or without additional letters: E£ and £E.
Hoard your small bills! Egypt has a perpetual shortage of small bills and change: even banks are reluctant to break too many bills. Vendors will also perpetually say they don’t have change and want small bills. Hoard your small bills as much as you can, be prepared to make bank runs for change, and break your bills in the easiest situations such as large supermarkets.
Black Market Money. The Egyptian pound has been devaluing gradually over the last several decades. Since 2011, the exchange rate has become relatively unstable and inflation sped up. As of 2013, the Egyptian pound is worth about 11 times less than at its peak.
As of late 2016 the Central Bank has attempted to fix the value of the Egyptian Pound to the US dollar at a rate of EGP1:USD17.7. This has led to a shortage of foreign exchange and as of December 2014 a black market in foreign currency is emerging. Dollars attract the greatest premium. Generally high street foreign exchange offices will offer the black market rate – the rates they publish are to a large extent fictional.
Exchanging money and banks. Use exchange offices or banks, not dodgy street money changers. ATMs are ubiquitous in the cities and probably the best option overall; they often offer the best rate and many foreign banks have branches in Egypt. Bank hours are Sunday through Thursday, 08:30-14:00. Beware – don’t use if Black Market Money.
Credit cards: Debit and credit cards are generally not accepted except at hotels, large supermarkets and shopping malls targeted at foreigners.
Tipping. Small bill tipping encouraged as people generally poor and tipping is a significant part of their income.

Scams. A common scam of vendors, ticket sellers, taxi drivers etc. will try is to claim that you only gave him a 10LE note, when you actually gave him a 100LE note – this can lead to a heated argument – best to treat it as an ‘honest mistake’ so that the vendor does not lose face, then suggest that the police or tourist police can help. As a general rule whenever giving over large bills say out loud their value so both you and the vendor know the value of the notes.
Shopping. In Egypt, prices are often increased for foreigners, so if you see a price on a price tag, it may be wise to learn the local Eastern Arabic numerals:

They are written from left to right. For example, the number 15 would be written as ١٥.

Food
Egypt can be a fantastic place to sample a unique range of food: not too spicy and well-flavoured with herbs. Felfela chain of restaurants in Cairo. May have abandoned some elements of authenticity. Oddly enough, beware of any restaurant listed in popular guidebooks. Even if the restaurant was once great, after publication, they will likely create a “special” English menu that includes very high prices.
Hygiene may not be of the highest standards, depending on the place. The number of tourists that suffer from some kind of parasite or bacterial infection is very high.
Ful Medames is one of the most common Egyptian dishes; consists of fava beans slow-cooked and mashed. Olive oil, garlic, chopped parsley, onion, garlic, and lemon juice, and typically eaten with Egyptian (baladi) bread or occasionally Levantine (shami) pita.
Falafel (known as Ta’miya in Egypt) invented by Egyptian bedouins. Usually served as fast food, or a snack.
Koshary mixture of macaroni, lentils, rice, chickpeas and tomato sauce. Very popular amongst the locals and a must try for tourists. The gratinated variation is called Taagin.
Dishes like stuffed vegetables and vine leafs, Shawarma-sandwiches are common in Egypt and the region.
Alcohol. Religiously forbidden but relaxed and pragmatic view – tolerated by the vast majority of Egyptians and consumed by a sizable number of them.
Sleep. Egypt has a full range of accommodation options, from basic backpacker hostels to five-star resorts.

GET IN
Visa. As a major tourist destination whose economy is dependent upon tourist money, Egypt is relatively easy to enter and/or obtain visas for if necessary. Citizens of many countries may obtain a one-month single entry visa on arrival at major points of entry. A USD25 fee is advisable to pay in US dollars and in the exact amount as otherwise your currency will be exchanged for Egyptian pounds which will only then be exchanged into US dollars with double conversion fees.
Egypt has peaceful relations with Israel, and travellers with passport stamps indicative of entry to Israel will not encounter any issues at the border. Direct flights between Tel Aviv and Cairo are available.
By plane. Egypt has several international airports.
By boat. Ferries run regularly from Aqaba across to Nuweiba on the Sinai peninsula operated by ABMaritime, bypassing Israel and the sometimes complicated border arrangements. A weekly ferry also runs between Wadi Halfa in Sudan and Aswan. Ferry boats also ply between the Red Sea coast to ports in Saudi Arabia and Jordan.
By bus. Travellers can easily access Egypt by bus from Israel from the bus stations in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv (Eilat cross over the border into Taba and take a bus to Cairo. The Jordanian state bus company, JETT, also operates a direct bus between Amman and Cairo. Be aware that all of the routes by bus must by necessity cross Israel; important if travelling to Syria, Iran, Libya, or other countries which routinely deny entry to those with evidence of travel to Israel in their passports.
By car. Gas is rather inexpensive in Egypt, prices are heavily subsidized. Driving in Egypt is very different than in a Western country. It is just as easy and probably cheaper to travel by taxis and around the country by air, train, and/or bus. Obedience of traffic laws is low and there are very few signs indicating road rules. Drivers frequently travel at 65mph(105km/h) on city highways, and as fast as 80mph(130km/h) or more on desert highways. Fridays have the least amount of traffic.

GET AROUND
By train. Egyptian National Railways runs almost all trains in Egypt. The Cairo-Alexandria route is heavily travelled by train, with frequent service daily. Overnight trains are available for travel from Cairo to Luxor and Aswan, in Upper Egypt; these are run by a separate private company called Abela Egypt. On ENR trains, a First Class ticket costs only a few dollars more than a Second class ticket and you will find it much more pleasant and comfortable.
Train tickets can be bought at most major railway stations’ booking offices once you are in Egypt, although a great deal of patience is often required. Except during busy holiday periods, it’s not normally difficult to purchase 1st class tickets on the day of travel.
Foreigners. Foreigners’ travel is subject to security restrictions. Foreigners are allowed to buy tickets only on selected trains. One can hop on the train into the desired class and buy tickets direct from a conductor.
Travel agencies (at least the day before) will charge a commission. Ramses Station in Cairo has several booking windows so check with locals (usually very helpful) that you are joining the right queue. The station sells tickets for Egyptian pounds, except for the deluxe Abela Egypt sleeper which must be paid in foreign currency (dollars, euros or pounds sterling).
First Class tickets are relatively cheap and a good choice, although Second Class will more than suffice for many. The air conditioning tends to be very cold in first and second class, especially during the summer. Travellers probably won’t want to experience anything below Second Class. If you must travel at a lower class due to overbooking, look for the first opportunity to “upgrade”. Note that toilet facilities on Egyptian trains are at best rudimentary, even in first class.
By bus. Egypt has an extensive long-distance bus network. Beware buying tickets from bus touts on the street or outside your hotel. There have been eight serious bus crashes involving foreign nationals since January 2006, in which over 100 people have been killed. If you are a passenger in a vehicle that is travelling at an unsafe speed you should firmly instruct the driver to slow down.
Road accidents are very common in Egypt, mainly due to poor roads, dangerous driving and non-enforcement of traffic laws.
By taxi. In the cities, taxis are a cheap and convenient, but drive erratically. In Cairo, fake taxis occur – look for official markings on the dashboard. In Cairo and Luxor it is often much more interesting to use the taxis and a good guidebook instead of travelling around in a tour bus. Some have meters, but most aren’t and Cairo is alone in Egypt with having a sizeable population of modern metered cabs. Ask for the correct price. Negotiate a price and destination before getting into the car. Prices are slightly inflated to  tourists. You can also hire taxis for whole days. Inside towns they are also more than happy to wait for you (often for a small extra charge), even if you will be wandering around for a few hours.
By plane. The domestic air network is fairly extensive – most common being Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel, Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh, Alexandria, Marsa Matruh and Marsa Alam.
Online ticket sales close 72 hours in advance. Travel agencies can still make bookings. EgyptAir has a large network of offices that can sell tickets. Egypt’s largest private airline, Nile Air, also offer scheduled flights from Cairo and Red Sea resorts of Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh.
By car. Until recently it was unheard of renting car and self drive in Egypt. However now you can rent a car, though quite expensive. Roads are in quite good condition, but some stretches are bumpy and potholes are frequent. In some parts gas stations are almost nonexistent. Major sights (Karnak, Abu Simbel, Valley of Kings) have huge parking lots, however they are not for tourists coming independently.

STAY SAFE
Travellers often complain about being scammed in Egypt. While irritating, most of this is harmless attempts to lure you into a papyrus or perfume shop. Typically, you will be approached by a man speaking fluent English who will invite you to join him for a cup of tea at his favourite souvenir shop where he will make you pay. If you are hassled, say la shukran (no thanks) or halass (enough). If you let yourself be bugged by everyone trying to sell you something, your holiday won’t be a very happy one. You’ll typically also get the “do you remember me? I work in your hotel and saw you this morning” scam as well where the guy will try to lead you to a shop or restaurant where he gets commissions. Tell him he is mistaken and walk away. Touts will tell you to put money into a donation box in a mosque claiming that it will help the neighborhood that recently had an earthquake. Just ignore him. More annoying are taxi drivers who get commission from hotels they drop you off at. Just ask to be dropped off at a street or landmark close to the place you are heading to. Egypt has generally been a safe country to travel to, people are friendly and willing to help.
Terrorism. The odds of being affected by terrorism are statistically low and any shady areas may have extra security. There are also many patrolling police officers armed with AK-47s riding on camels in the Giza plateau.
Crime. Pickpocketing is a problem in Egypt’s bigger cities, particularly Cairo. Violent crime is rare and you may get support of local pedestrians by shouting “Harami” (Criminal). Overall, scams are the main concern in Egypt. Egyptians who starts a conversation with you in Cairo and Luxor may “befriend” you and be a guide for you, even bring you back to their place for dinner, and then they will demand money for it. Basically, if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Demand prices for absolutely everything.
Animal cruelty. Found horrific abuse of horses and camels

STAY HEALTHY
Schistosomiasis (also known as bilharzia), a flatworm that burrows through the skin, do not swim in the Nile or venture into any other Egyptian waterways, even if the locals are doing so. It is also a good idea not to walk in bare feet on freshly-watered lawns for the same reason. Symptoms include fever, diarrhea, abdominal pain and fatigue, making the disease easy to mistake for the flu or food poisoning, but the flatworm eggs can be identified with a stool test and the disease can usually be cured with a single dose of Praziquantel.

RESPECT
Egyptian workers expect tips after performing a service, known as Baksheesh. This can be expected for something as little as pressing the button in the elevator. Many workers will even ask you to tip them before you get a chance. The typical tip for minor services is 50pt to 1 LE. Due to the general shortage of small change, you may be forced to give 5 LE to do simple things like use the bathroom. Just understand that this is part of the culture.
Never discuss religion from an atheistic or similar point of view. Even highly educated Egyptians who studied abroad won’t appreciate it and doors will close for you.
Do not elicit any conversations about politics, but don’t be afraid to partake if a local you are speaking with (typically a middle-class and well educated shopkeeper) begins a rant about his hatred for the current administration (for whom they blame, rightly or wrongly, for the drop in tourism and economic loss). This will be a common theme that you’ll find many of the friendly locals go into, but certainly you don’t want to be seen as a foreigner coming in to insult their government with knowledge of only what you hear in the media.
Dress. Egyptians are generally a conservative people and many are religious and dress very conservatively. Although they accommodate foreigners being dressed a lot more skimpily, it is prudent not dress provocatively, if only to avoid having people stare at you. It is best to wear pants or jeans instead of shorts as only tourists wear these.
At the Giza Pyramids and other such places during the hot summer months, short sleeve tops and even sleeveless tops are acceptable for women (especially when traveling with a tour group). Though you should carry a scarf or something to cover up more while traveling to/from the tourist destination.
Women should cover their arms and legs if travelling alone, and covering your hair may help to keep away unwanted attention. Though as a foreigner, you may get plenty of attention no matter what you wear, mainly including people staring at you along with some verbal harassment which you can try to ignore.