Portugal – Algarve (Faro, Lagos) Aug 24-26, 2021
Portugal seems less hectic and more relaxed than Spain. Architecture is lovely with most things painted white. Tiles often form the facade of houses.
I am continuing to see nonmuseum places on the Nomad Mania lists. World Heritage Sites missed on previous trips are a priority.
Castro Marim and Vila Real de Santo António Marshes Nature Reserve
Farol de Vila Real de Santo António, Vila Real de Santo António. Sitting inland, this is a tall white structure a red top and attractive out buildings.
I slept in the shade of a nice pine forest on a quiet street in Santo Antonio. The next day was foggy and misty for some welcome cool.
TAVIRA
Ponte Romana, Tavira. Crossing the tidal River Galao, it was first mentioned in the 13th century when it had 2 towers. After collapsing, it was rebuilt in 1655, and after a flood, again in 1992. It has 6 arches and a cobbled walkway.
Palácio da Galeria (Municipal Museum). Dating to the 16th century, it had Baroque remodeling in the mid 18th century and became the municipal museum in 2001 with local history and ethnography. It owes its name to the Renaissance gallery on the second floor. Free reduced
Mercados de Olhao. On the water, these two brick buildings with round towers on each corner, have fish in one (I find the tuna depressing) and meat, cheese and produce in the second. Very active with locals and off the tourist path.
I’ve been to Faro before and skipped the tourist-ridden town.
Praia de Rocha Baixinha. This huge beach backed by red cliffs was packed on a late August day. Thousands of cars filled the many parking lots. Cross the dunes on the boardwalk. The part I saw was family orientated.
Windmill Abufeira (Moinho de vento). This round white windmill sits on the high point. It has been lovingly maintained and appears to function with sails wrapped on the outermost set of 4 vanes. Another set of vanes is inside that. The top appears to rotate and has a nice cock weathervane on top.
Marinha Beach. This world-famous beach is only accessible by stairs (and usually a walk of a few kilometres because of the thousands of cars choking every available road). Has stunning rock formations, yellow cliffs, and caves.
CORVOEIRO
Corvoeiro Beach. This small beach sits between two headlands and was packed at 6pm. No parking, lots of cafes and bars, even a toy train! Nice architecture.
BENAGIL. A very small village centered on a narrow cove packed with tourists. It was a tortuous drive here with all the cars parked on the road, and sunseekers walking along it. Up to the late 20th century, the economy was based on ocean fishing, but now is a tourist area with a popular beach.
Algar de Benagil. A small beach set between cliffs in this tiny village.
Benagil caves. The most popular of all maritime caves in Portugal. A large hole in the roof of the cave lets light in.
Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Lagoa This This medieval Carmelite convent and church complex was founded in 1550 by the scribe of the household of Catherine of Habsburg, Queen of Portugal. For many years it was the home of the several male Carmelites of the Ancient Observance, of the Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. After the 1722 and 1755 earthquakes, the convent was heavily damaged. In 1825, the site was abandoned completely by the monks, leading to its ruins by 1834, all accelerated when the monasteries and religious institutions were closed and/or extinguished by alternating liberal politicians. The property was taken over by a signeurial family, the antecedents of the Cabrita family, who reconstructed much of the church and grounds. Private masses came to be celebrated in the chapel of the convent, along with the celebration of an annual festival (with procession) in honour of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, the patroness of the Carmelite Order.
It was also apparently abandoned for the last 100 years until 3 years ago and is now occupied by Convent’bio, a 100% organic operation – farm, store and restaurant with vegetarian food. Many good reviews. After 3 years of no fertilizer, the farmland soil became exhausted and has not been planted for 1 year.
It is lovely inside. The chapel looks like it could still be used but has tables and chairs for dining. Defects in the plaster show the exposed stone. The place smelled great
Praia da Rocha. This is a very deep, long beach festooned with umbrellas and chairs.
PORTIMAO/LAGOS
Igreja de Santo Antonio, Lagos. Built in 1707, destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and rebuilt by 1769, besides the painted ceiling is totally over-the-top gilt. A wealth of chubby, rosy-cheeked cherubs hold up all the gold. This historic Catholic church with Baroque architecture is believed to be the birth site of Saint Anthony of Lisbon.
SAGRES
At the far SW tip of Portugal, and Europe, there are dramatic cliffs, beaches and big surf. I have been here before and saw the fort and lighthouse.
Fortaleza de Sagres.
Lighthouse of Cabo de São Vicente
Praia de Mareta. A nice big beach in town.
Moiñho de Arregata, Rogil. Relatively squat and wide, it is white plaster with a blue band and a rotating cap. It has two sets of 4 vanes and doesn’t appear to be operating.
Odeceixe-mar beach. Deep because of a river at the back, this is popular for surfing.
Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Nature Park. Dramatic coastal scenery with cliffs, beaches and a nice pine forest.
