Dominica March 8-9, 2022
Dominica is often known as “The Nature Island of the Caribbean” due to its spectacular, lush, and varied flora and fauna, which are protected by an extensive natural park system. The most mountainous island of the Lesser Antilles, its volcanic peaks are cones of lava craters and include Boiling Lake, the second-largest thermally active lake in the world.
Capital: Roseau
Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). January 2019: US$1 ≈ EC$2.7 (pegged), €1 ≈ EC$3.1.
Speak: English (official), French patois
Population: 72,000 (2003)
Country Code: +1767
Visa. No visa, 6 months: Commonwealth, most eastern Europe, US. No visa, 3 months: most western countries, China.
Covid. A PCR was required along with the expected vaccination. A registration has to be filled out.
On March 8, I had my PCR and continued by share taxi to a Burger King and the airport to catch my flight to Dominica at 4pm (WinAir $306). It was late and I arrived at the airport at dusk. I didn’t have the required accommodation and booked an Air BnB in about 20kms from the airport. The car had no gas, I could only pay by cash and the ATM had no money so had to break a US$100 bill. When I got to the address, it was dark and no one was around so I drove back to the main road and pulled off at an abandoned church ruin and slept the night in the car (I had a great sleep with no bugs and a perfect temperature).
Up at 6, I drove the few kms back to the beach and started my drive about around Dominica.
Batibou Bay Beach. Park on the main highway, cross the barricade and walk about 10 minutes down the rough road to the beach. It is a lovely stretch of golden sand between two headlands. Palm trees grow out of the beach. There is camping and a US$5 day charge for the beach.
Cabrits NP is on a peninsula at the north end that protects tropical forest, coral reefs and wetlands. There are hiking trails and an English garrison called Fort Shirley. Cabrits National Park occupies 1,313 acres (531 ha) and was established in 1986. Cabrits is an extinct volcano that was once its own island, separate from mainland Dominica. It was connected to Dominica by the sweeping in of material from Douglas Bay and Prince Rupert Bay. Cabrits is the last stop on the Waitukubuli Trail which originates in the southern village of Scott’s Head. Segment 14 of the trail runs from Capuchin to Cabrits.
Fort Shirley. Tentative WHS (05/02/2015). Part of Cabrits National Park, it may be Dominica’s most important historic site and was the scene of the famous revolt of the 8th West India Regiment in 1802 when African slave soldiers took over the garrison for three days in protest over conditions there and the fear of being sent to work in the canefields. Their action resulted in all slave soldiers in the British Empire being made free in 1807.
Fort Shirley succeeded as being a deterrent to attack Dominica on a number of occasions particularly during the French invasions of Dominica in 1795 and 1805. The most important naval battle in the Caribbean – the battle of the Saints which took place on April 12th 1782 was fought within sight of the ramparts.
The British undertook most of the construction of the Fort but the French made significant additions during their occupation of Dominica from 1778 – 1784. Together they amassed a garrison comprising one fort, seven-gun batteries, seven cisterns, powder magazines, ordnance storehouses, bakeries, iron forge, barracks and other officers’ quarters to house and provide for over 600 men on regular duty along with their support staff of artisans and slaves.
With the end of hostilities between Britain and France, the garrison became obsolete and was finally abandoned in 1854. From 1982, sections have been restored: Officers’ Quarters, the Soldiers’Barracks, Powder Magazine, Ordnance Store, Guard House and Ramparts.
Fort Shirley is part of a group of Eastern Caribbean Coastal Fortifications constructed by skilled slave labour. Coastal Fortifications were initially erected to ward off heavily armed buccaneers. They evolved into interlocking gun platforms for militias.
From 1745 to 1815, the West Indies was one of the most important regions in the world due to the value of the cash crops grown there. Envious of Britain’s expanding empire; other colonial powers, particularly France and Spain sought more control of the mercantile economy. This struggle for maritime supremacy saw Britain at war for fifty-one of the seventy-one years between 1745 and 1815 during which time the Windward Islands became a primary transatlantic theatre of operations.
The land and sea area surrounding Fort Shirley was first inhabited by the Kalinago who traded goods with the Europeans who would stop at Prince Rupert’s Bay to replenish some of their supplies including fresh drinking water and wood. African slaves were also brought into Dominica through Prince Rupert’s Bay and some of them were recruited to form the 8th West India Regiment.
Apart from Dominica’s Fort Shirley other examples are Fort George in Grenada, Fort Duvernette in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Fort Rodney in Saint Lucia, Charles Fort in St. Kitts and Nevis and Fort Amsterdam in Dutch Sint Maarten.
St. John’s Parrish. XL. The north end of the island containing Cabrits and Fort Shirley.
Layou River. A good river for floating and swimming.
Waitukubuli National Trail. Trails 1 – Treks. Cabrits NP is the last stop on the Waitukubuli Trail which originates in the southern village of Scott’s Head. Segment 14 of the trail runs from Capuchin to Cabrits.
Morne Diablotin National Park. Tentative WHS (05/02/2015). In the northern mountain ranges, 8,242 acres, established 2000, primarily to protect the habitat of the endangered sisserou parrot, an endemic bird species that is a national symbol of Dominica. Morne Diablotin (4747′ – 1,447m) the tallest mountain on the island and the second highest mountain in the Lesser Antilles. During the 18th century, the land was home to at least six different encampments of escaped slaves.
Syndicate Trail, a good way to see the most bird life. 46.7 km from Roseau along West Coast or 4.5 miles or 7 km from the village of Dublanc.
Northern Forest Reserve. Dating from 1977 to protect watersheds, plants and animals and especially birds – two indigenous species of parrot, the Sisserou and the Jacquot,
Salton Waterfalls. On private property. Trail hard to find, not maintained. 2 waterfalls. $5. There’s no sign marking the entrance to this waterfall so follow Google Maps, a teal-colored house and the woman who owns the property. 26 ECD (9 USD) for two people, for directions down. Either walk 10 minutes or drive (4×4 as this road is full of rocks and eventually. Can swim here, although the current is very strong.
Pagua River. Runs east emptying south of the airport.
Kalinago Barana Autê (Carib Cultural Village by the Sea). Open Air Museum showing a recreated Kalinago (the original people of the island) village, biology and ethnography. $10
Central Forest Reserve. Dating from 1952, the dominant tree is gommier, with heights to 120 feet and beautiful and durable wood used by the Kalinago people for canoes, and crafts.
Wavine Cyrique Beach. Traverse ladders, tree roots and ropes to descend the cliff to the beach and waterfall that falls into the ocean.
ROSEAU (pop 14, 700 2011) Capital and largest city. It is small and compact and built on the site of the ancient Carib village of Sairi. It is on the west (leeward) coast of Dominica and has a combination of modern and colonial French architecture. There are some fine examples of West Indian architecture: French Colonial along King George V Street; English in large colonial town houses and colonial public/government buildings.
Few people live in Central Roseau.
Canefield Airport (DCF), Dominica (Douglas-Charles) Airport (DOM)
The Dominica Museum. Demonstrates the history and ethnography of the island. Included in the bubble of the ship. $3
Cathedral of Our Lady of Fair Haven. Unfortunately, it was closed due to renovations.
Dominica Botanic Gardens. Primarily a large field of grass but with some large trees and a few flowering bushes.
TRAFALGAR. Above Roseau
Papillote Tropical Gardens. A gardens, restaurant, hotel and hot springs.
Trafalgar Falls. Short trail to twin waterfalls, one with cold water 125 feet high, the other with hot spring water and 75 feet high. Climb rocks on right to sulphur spring.
Morne Trois Pitons National Park — World Heritage Site. Access from the mountain village of Laudat for misty lakes, waterfalls, rivers, hot springs and fumaroles in a setting of volcanoes and thick jungle. Swim at the Freshwater Lake, Boeri Lake, Emerald Pool or explore the Titou Gorge, Middleham Falls.
Approximately 10,000-15,000 visitors a year walk to the Emerald Pool, and another 1,500-2,000m make the 6 km hike to the Boiling Lake from Laudat village. Visitors can drive in at only two points: at Laudat on the road from Roseau, and the Emerald Pool site on the cross-island road between Roseau and Castle Bruce.
Titou Gorge. The hike is actually a short, 5-minute swim from the base of a waterfall through a series of natural “rooms and ponds” formed by high cliff walls canopied by interlaced trees. The undulating sides of this deep, narrow gorge were formed as molten lava cooled and split apart. A hot spring tumbles down a short wall just outside the entrance of the gorge, which feels wonderful after the cool waters of the falls!
Rain Forest Aerial Tram. A canopy tour in a gondola with a quick and easy trail, 5 waterfalls.
a. Boiling Lake is a 12-mile round trip hike (8 hours), very steep mostly on steps and switchbacks. A guide is recommended for inexperienced back country hikers, the terrain is rough especially when wet (which it almost always is). The trail is well marked most of the way. The trail is indistinct in the Valley of Desolation but picks up again where vegetation begins. The hike is stunning and the bare volcanic mountain tops make for unforgettable views of rolling mountain tops and steamy volcanic vents. Trail ends at the Boiling Lake, a 100 meter wide lake that is being heated by a volcanic vent and is boiling. Make sure to leave yourself time to travel to/from this destination in addition to the lengthy and challenging hike. Expect to take a at least 8 hours round trip (including driving) – but it’s worth the effort. Stunning scenery.
b. Middle Ham Falls*. 1.5 hour moderate hike in the heart of the rainforest of the Morne Trois Piton National Park. The falls are striking, with a narrow stream dropping about 200 ft. from a keyhole notch in the lip of the cliff. The pool beneath the falls is swimmable, though a bit chilly.
c. Emerald Pool*. Morne Trois Pitons National Park
Scott’s Head is a small isthmus on the southern tip, one hour from Roseau, hike for views of the south-west coast and Martinique to the south. Beautiful village at the end of the road on the southwest corner. Scott’s Head wraps around the lip of a gently curved bay that happens to be the ancient crater of a volcano great for snorkeling around the 160-meter-deep coral lined hole that stretches for hundreds of meters.
Soufriere-Scott’s Head Marine Reserve. Tentative WHS (05/02/2015). Includes the villages of Scott’s Head and Soufriere up to Anse bateau, near the village of Pointe Michel. It is the most picturesque bay on the island, both below and above the water. The area is dominated by the Scott’s Head or Cashacrou Peninsula – separating the calmer Caribbean Sea from the wilder Atlantic Ocean.
During the island’s turbulent past the headland was home to English and French soldiers depending on the period of English or French occupation. An old gun emplacement has commanding views across the bay to Roseau.
Get In. By plane. Melville Hall (Douglas–Charles Airport) (DOM) cannot accommodate jet aircraft. Access via San Juan, Antigua, Barbados, St.Maarten, Martinique, Guadeloupe.
By boat. Express des Isles runs services to Martinique and Guadeloupe.
Get Around. By car is the best way. Tightly turning mountain roads make for relatively long journeys and a hair-raising experience. Driving is on the left, honk horn on hairpin turns, large trucks, pot holes and crumbling asphalt. A large 4×4 would be cumbersome.
Climate. Tropical; moderated by northeast trade winds; heavy rainfall. Flash floods are a constant threat; destructive hurricanes can be expected during the late summer months.
Terrain. Rugged mountains of volcanic origin. Highest point Morne Diablotin 1,447m
Eat Eat and drink local food and rum at local-style bars. Try fried plantains, codfish and bakes, fried fish and tamarind balls.
Drink. Freshly grapefruit, coconut water, sorrel (red refreshing drink brewed from the flowers of a hibiscus around Christmas. The popular locally brewed beer is Kubuli.
Quenchi is a local soft drink. Avocado pear juice, soursop, passionfruit, grapefruit, orange, lime, beetroot. Coffee is usually not very good, locals prefer tea and juice.
SEE
Rent a car and drive clockwise to see the sites. Twisting mountain roads. Drive on left hand side. Honk on hair pin turns. Beware large trucks. Pot holes and crumbling pavement. Ask directions as locals friendly.
Wavine Cyrique Beach. Traverse ladders, tree roots and ropes to descend the cliff to the beach and waterfall that falls into the ocean.
DO
Snorkelling. Snorkelling is particularly good at Champagne, south of Roseau, and at Scott’s Head. Scuba Diving, waterskiing, jet skiing, kayaking or other water sports are also possibilities. Champagne — A snorkelling spot on the southern coast, underwater volcanic vents emit continuous streams of bubbles making the place feel like a giant glass of champagne. The fish and coral are slightly below average.
Whale watching, dolphin watching, or boat tours can be arranged from Roseau.
Marine Turtles (April-October). Dominica’s waters are also home to three species of marine turtles (Leatherback, Hawksbill, and Green turtle), and these gentle giants can be seen coming in to nest on shore during the months of April to October. Protected viewing sites are set up throughout the island, such as at Mangrove Bay on the Woodford Hill beach in the north east, or on the beaches of Portsmouth in the north west.
Biking, ATV tours, or zip lining are popular in forest areas.
Other hikes
Glassy*— 2-3 hour day hike in the southeast of the island. The trail begins nicely enough through some farmland, plunges into a deep jungle valley then approaches the coast skirting steep cliffs to one side (not for those with vertigo). The trail ends on an old volcanic flow that juts into the ocean, waves roll all around crashing on all sides, little ponds collect some of the water from the crashing waves and some coral and fish make the ponds their home. When approaching the edges of the cliffs be aware waves have been known to throw people against the rocks or worse yet pulled them into the ocean to their certain death.
Jaco Steps* — Ford the creek in Belles and hike into the rain forest up the side of a nearly inaccessible forest plateau. In 30 minutes you will reach the Jaco Steps. There is not a clear consensus of why these steps were constructed many decades ago. To do a circular route by following the river upstream will add an hour at least to your journey and will involve multiple crossings of the river en route.
NOMAD MANIA Dominica (Roseau)
World Heritage Sites: Morne Trois Pitons National Park
Tentative WHS
Fort Shirley (05/02/2015)
Morne Diablotin National Park (05/02/2015)
Soufriere-Scott’s Head Marine Reserve (05/02/2015)
Islands: Dominica
Borders: Dominica (sea border/port)
XL: St. John’s Parrish
Airports
Canefield (DCF)
Dominica (Douglas-Charles) (DOM)
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Dominica: Fort Shirley
World of Nature
Morne Diablotin
Morne Trois Pitons
Central Forest Reserve
Northern Forest Reserve
Festivals: Jazz ‘n Creole Festival
Botanical Gardens: Trafalgar: Papillote Tropical Gardens (Sight)
Beaches
Batibou Beach
Wavine Cyrique Beach
Waterfalls
Salton Waterfalls
Trafalgar Falls
Rivers:
Lavou River
Pagua River
Trails 1 – Treks: Waitukubuli National Trail
Open-Air Museums: Kalinago Barana Aute (Carib Village by the Sea)
Cities of the Americas
ROSEAU World Capital
Museums: The Dominica Museum
Religious Temples: Cathedral of Our Lady of Fair Haven
Botanical Gardens: Dominica Botanic Gardens
