BRAZIL – PARANA EASTERN

Brazil – Paraná Eastern (Curitiba) April 24-25, 2022

I caught the bus from the Sao Paulo T terminal to Curitiba (6 hours) at 09:20. I sat next to a 3rd-year medical student and it was interesting to see how medical schools in Brazil worked.

Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves WHS.The Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves, in the states of Paraná and São Paulo, contain some of the best and most extensive examples of Atlantic forest in Brazil, one of the most threatened biomes of the world. The 25 protected areas that make up the site (some 470,000 ha in total) display the biological wealth and evolutionary history of the last remaining Atlantic forests. From mountains covered by dense forests, down to wetlands, and coastal islands with isolated mountains and dunes, the area comprises a rich natural environment of great scenic beauty.
The region, which has a large number of rare and endemic species, is exceptionally varied. The site also has an exceptional aesthetic interest, with its altitudinal gradient ranging from mountains to the sea, its estuary, wild rivers, coastal islands, numerous waterfalls, and karst phenomena.
The site is part of the Serra do Mar domain and extends across the adjacent coastal plain, which includes the estuarine complex of Iguape-Cananéia-Paranaguá.
The site represents one of the largest continuous areas of exuberant Brazilian Atlantic Forest connected with coastal ecosystems. From mountains covered by dense forests with an abundance of orchids and bromeliads to coastal islands and estuaries with a wealth of vast mangroves, the property offers a natural environment of great beauty with tremendous terrestrial and marine biodiversity. More than 300 caves (including the Casa de Pedra Cave which has the largest portico in the world at 215 meters high, and Santana Cave which is one of the most highly decorated).
Historically partly isolated, the Atlantic Forest has evolved into a complex biome with a multitude of endemic species, comprising around 70% of the tree species, 85% of the primates, and 39% of the mammals.
The flora and fauna are extremely diverse and very rich. The flora is among the most diverse in the world, and in some areas, one can encounter over 450 species of trees per hectare. As for mammals, their number of 120 species, is probably the largest in Brazil. Amongst the flagship species are the jaguar, ocelot, and bush dog (Speothos venaticus). The property is rich in primates, some of which are highly endangered, such as the woolly spider monkey (Brachyteles arachnoides), the largest primate in the Americas, and the little “black-faced lion” monkey (Leontopithecus caissara), recorded only in 1990 and endemic to the region. The avifauna is very diverse with 350 species recorded, including the blue-cheeked Amazon (Amazona brasiliensis), classified vulnerable. The scarlet ibis (Eudocimus ruber), a large bird with bright red plumage, is a local symbol.

CURITIBA/SAO JOSE dos PINHAIS/COLOMBO
From The Curitiba Rodoviaria, I walked 1.8km to the Curitiba Casa Hostel for two nights. I had thought I would only stay for one but it was a Monday and all museums in town were closed. I also didn’t mind a relative day of rest after my ginormous two days in Sao Paulo where I saw about 40 NM sites. One of the workers at the hostel was in first-year medicine and we played pool and cards all evening. It is a lovely hostel with many unoccupied beds. 
The next day, I went on a minor walk/bus about to see a few of the out-of-the-way places. 
Jardim Botanico de Curitiba. Google Maps was over a km out and when I found it (next to a velodrome), I never did find the entrance but walked a long way outside the fence. There is a large array of trimmed hedges and flower beds and a 3-domed greenhouse.
I then walked through a university to Decathlon, a great hiking/travel/sports store that I loved when in Europe. I found a very good 50 l travel bag that I think will serve me for a long time. I got rid of two stiffeners and will replace the heavy-duty rain cover with one much lighter. I also bought some socks, a tiny waist bag, and a sling bag (that I have been looking for for a few years), all at great prices.
Railway Museum. Next to the Rodoviaria, it has several old passenger cars in the yard and the usual collection of train station gear.

Day 2
I had a walk/bus about to see the sites in Curitiba. 
Cathedral Basilica Minor of Our Lady of Light.
A grand 3-nave church with lovely wood and coffered ceiling entrance, carved wood pulpits, floral designs on the walls and ceilings, elaborate rib vaulted ceilings, and nice stained glass.
Photography Museum. In thehe cultural centre (caricature, graphic art), the museum is on the 2nd floor to your left. There are three small galleries of one photographer all of close-ups of plants, some mounted on burlap sacks. Free
Alfredo Andersen Museum – MAA. (1860-1935). From Norway, he moved to Paraguay when 22 and Curitiba in 1902. Despite a return to Norway in 1927-30, this was his house. His art was mostly landscape and portraiture. 
Holocaust Museum. In the NM The Dark Side, note that this museum requires a reservation (museodoholocausto.com) often made a few days in advance. It is also closed from 11:30 to 2:30 daily. It is part of a heavily secured complex with a synagogue -Beit Yaacov.
Visit with a free guide. I have been to at least four other holocaust museums (Washington DC, Jerusalem, Imperial War Museum, London, and Skopje, N Macedonia). Free
Oscar Niemeyer Museum. In a huge building (designed by ON), there are several galleries. The photographic exhibit mainly of black and whites was excellent with all large prints. A large African art with many masks, large wood carvings, and some bronzes. Asian art from India, Japan, China, and Myanmar. Lots of rules here (no water or even the empty bottles, no writing on my computer, on and on). Free reduced
Interestingly there was nothing about ON, just the building was designed by him with an open bottom and a huge one-story rectangular block on top. Outside are a series of ponds with a futuristic elliptical building set on a pedestal with black windows on two sides.
Contemporary Art Museum Of Paraná – MAC-PR. Closed for renovation, a lot of the art was being displayed in the galleries of the Oscar Niemeyer building. Roberto Andrade art (not very good) plus another gallery of typical contemporary art.
Parque das Pedreiras. In the NM Urban Legends series, this was 3.5 km from the ON museum and I took a bus.
Castelo do Batel is a palace located in the neighborhood of Batel that currently functions as an event center. Built in 1924 by the coffee grower and honorary consul of Holland Luiz Guimarães, it was purchased by Moysés Lupion, former governor of Paraná, in 1947, the year in which it was listed as a Historic Heritage Site; It had other uses until it was designated as a suitable venue for an event center in 2003.
It is built in an eclectic style, and is a replica of the castles of the Loire Valley, in France. The mansion features a cylindrical turret with a conical roof, full-arch portals, mansards on the roof, paneled doors of carved wood, stained glass windows, and floors of marble. With large garages and a tennis court, the grounds have trees and gardens, seen through the gates and wrought iron railings. It took four years to build due to the difficulties in executing the exquisite finishing details and the use of a wide range of materials and parts imported from Europe.
In 2003, the restoration and expansion process began, and it currently houses an events center.
Castelo do Batel has eight meeting rooms with a capacity for up to 60 people. At Christmas, it has special lighting. 

After seeing all I wanted in Curitiba, I returned to my hostel, got my luggage, and returned to the Rodoviaria to get a bus to Florianopolis, 4 hours.