WEDGE 2480m
This pinnacle east of Gladsheim Peak is clearly wedge-shaped.
1. Southwest Ridge. Approach from Mulvey Creek. Climb Class 3 slabs and gullies on the left side to a ledge that leads to the southwest ridge. Ascend to the summit (to Class 5.7). Ten assorted nuts and pitons were used. (III,5.7).
Variation (No-See-Um): Start on the left side of the slabs. Go up the slabs and up a gully to a ledge which goes right onto the ridge (Class 3; as Route 1).
Ascend the southwest ridge (to Class 5.7) until within about 120 meters of the top, where a large ledge cuts the south face. Traverse this ledge right and up (Class 3-4) to the northeast ridge. Go straight up the northeast ridge (3 pitches, Class 5.5) to the top, 10 hours.
Descend the southeast side with one rappel onto snow at the bottom and descend into the valley via a snow couloir east of the mountain.
Good protection with 10 assorted nuts and a few small pitons; no long, hard sections. (III,5.7,s).
FRA Pat Morrow, Joe Myers, 08/07/1975.
2. Southeast Ridge. Approach from lower Mulvey Meadows (north side), over ledges under the south face to a large step (tree-covered) about a quarter of the way up the southeast
From the step, follow the tree-covered ledges and cracks on the right of the ridge until a blank section (4 leads) forces a traverse onto the left side. Follow the left-hand of two possible crack lines until the angle eases and a diagonal traverse right (5.8) goes to a tree (one of hundreds!).
The route follows a Class 5.5 corner, goes left under a “circular” overhang and enters a bottomless gully to a good ledge. Then follow the ridge all the way (10 leads, some 5.5-5.6).(III,5.8).
FRA Chris Perry, Arthur Twomey, o7/1975.
EAST HUMP 2510m
There are two pairs of minor summits on the east ridge of Gladsheim Peak, the Humps (E) and the Molars (W). The altitudes are estimates.
1. Southwest Ridge. From West Hump, descend the east ridge to the notch between the Humps. Climb the southwest ridge abd traverse east to a snow slope (glacier?) on the north, and descend north toward Gwillim Creek. Glacier (III,5.0,s). Late May, 1953.
2. North Slopes. See Route 1,
WEST HUMP 2530m
1. North Ridge, East Ridge. The original approach was from the old Gwillim Creek road (from the north), and then severe bushwhacking to camp in a natural cave at 1980 meters (6500 feet). Ascend the north slopes and traverse to the west, descending slightly from the north ridge. The difficulties are at the top. (III,5.3,s). Late May, 1953.
EAST MOLAR 2640m
The Molars are a pair of pinnacles between the Humps and Gladsheim Peak.
1. Northeast Slopes. The original access was from Gwillim Creek, as for West Hump. Traverse the north slopes below West Hump, descend slightly to cross a gully, and ascend the northeast slopes to the summit. The FA party built a small cairn but left no names. (III,4,s). July 1953(b).
WEST MOLAR 2620m
The West Molar is just east of the Red Gully.
1. Northwest Side. Find a route up the slopes of Gladsheim to the col above the Red Traverse downwards a little across steep, grassy slopes to reach a narrow, steep snow gully below the east face of Gladsheim. Ascend the lower half to a broad, long gully that intersects it at right angles. By ascending the broader gully for a short distance, get onto ledges on its far side and so circumvent a large chockstone in the continuation of the first gully. Ascend to the Gladsheim-West Molar col (2 hours).
Traverse 120 meters beyond the col on the northwest side. A series of gullies and chimneys lead to the ridge.
Pitch 1. Scrambling, 20m.
Pitch 2. Ascend 3 meters of chimney, 6 meters in all (Class 4).
Pitch 3. Two steep, damp gullies, both with a chockstone and intervening ledges, 20m (Class 4).
Pitch 4. Climb onto a block, and traverse 20 meters left up easy ledges, using one nut (Class 5).
Pitch 5. Scramble back right to just below the ridge.
Descend by two 40-meter rappels from the ridge directly to the col. Ice (III,5.5,s).
FRA Robert Coupe, Tom Dobson, Peter Koedt, Peter Rankin, Peter Rowat, 03/07/1973.
2. South Face. Begin in the Mulvey Basin. Ascend a very complicated lower face and spur buttress, using many ramps, gullies and one delicate moss-tree traverse. Bivouac on a narrow crest between canyons.
Five hard pitches complete the spur. Scramble up long slabs and an alp slope. A face and a strange chimney system (dirty; hard boulder move) lead to better ground.
Good pitches in the upper chimney-canyon lead to the notch between the Molars. Scramble to the summit.
Another bivouac ensued on the descent of the spur. Bad weather slowed progress. (V,5.8). FRA Fred Beckey, Brian Leo, Doug McCarty, George Ochinski, 2-3/09/1974.
