YMIR MOUNTAIN 2398m 7867’
Ymir Mountain is best known for Whitewater Ski Resort but it’s also a great place to hike in the summer. Getting to the summit is off trail traversing the boulders and scree in the Ymir Bowl. The reward is ridge hiking with stunning views. An ice axe is recommended most of the season and at time crampons are necessary for steep snow.
Weather & Season. These routes are located in the alpine so temperatures will be much cooler than in Nelson with potential windchill and thunderstorms. Dress accordingly and be prepared for all weather.
The season spans from late June to late September. Expect some snow along the approach and descent routes even in summer. If you are looking at making a winter ascent, check the avalanche bulletin and use avalanche safety gear.
Read the “Backcountry Access” web page on the Whitewater Ski Resort website before heading out: http://www.skiwhitewater.com/backcountry.php
According to the Norsemen, Ymir was a huge ice giant who was formed amid a jumble of ice blocks. The ice giants were the enemies of the gods, and Ymir was slain by the three sons of Bor (who included Odin), who made the entire earth out of his body.
Difficulty: C3
Elevation gain: 760m (2493′)
Key elevations: Parking lot ski resort 1630m (4462′); Summit 2398m (7867’).
Distance: 3.7kms to summit via west ridge.
Time:
Access: Easy. Pavement to parking lot.
Season: All year-round (popular ski touring)
Map:
Drive: Go southeast on Highway 6 from the west side of Nelson for 11.5 km (7.1 miles), and turn east and north on the Whitewater Ski Resort access road, drive 10kms and park near the Whitewater Day Lodge (closed in summer). Motorized access (dirt bikes, quads, jeeps, etc) are not allowed on the ski resort property.
Looking up past the lodge, Ymir Mountain sits in the distance. There are two main hiking routes up Ymir and both are off-trail with some light scrambling:
1. West Ridge
Route: From the lodge, head directly toward the summit following ‘Lower Sluice Box’, a groomed ski run. The old rough road narrows to a path, winds through meadows, crosses a road and ascends through low bush to a boulder field where the trail disappears. Left up the boulder field goes to the north ridge of Ymir via Half Dome.
Cross to the south side of the stream under the west ridge, bushwhack a little and pass over the lowest part of what appears to be a spur in order to gain the steep snow slopes and the obvious col in the west ridge. 1.5hrs. Scramble up the ridge to the summit, a nice walk with granite, boulders and larch. Circumnavigate a notch in the ridge to the south. Bring crampons and an ice axe, and a light rope for those not used to steep snow. (II,3,s).
FA by the Topographical Survey, date and route unknown.
When descending the same way, below the col, do not pass over the “spur”, but go straight down through bush (easy, short) to open slopes below.
Or traverse the mountain descending the north ridge to Half Dome.
Couloirs on the north side of the west ridge offer opportunities for steep snow climbs in the early part of the year.
2. North Ridge.
This is often called the north ridge because the ridge curves. It divides at a lower peak called Half Dome, one branch going directly north (not visible from the bowl).
Approach. Follow the approach route above to the switchback located at the end of the “Little Mucker Traverse.” From here, continue along a faint climber’s trail leading out of the ski area in a south-easterly direction towards Ymir Bowl. This short “trail” initially crosses a healthy section of alder trees before emerging into an open talus slope at the bottom of “Goat Slide” in lower Ymir Bowl. Ascend the steepening talus slope straight up Goat Slide. The talus leads to steep grassy slopes and eventually the base of “Starters” on the Goat Wall. The approach to this point typically takes 1-1.5 hours.
Part of the ridge between Ymir and Half Dome is knife-edged. Take care with steep snow and cornices early in year.
The overhang at the notch in the north ridge can be turned. It is partly a route on steep snow. Class 3, FA unknown.
Since 2010, David Lussiter has developed a collection of several 2-4 pitch climbs scattered over various rock walls between Half Dome and Ymir Peak.
In total, 11 mixed bolted & trad pitches ranging from 5.5 to 5.10a were created. All pitches, 30m or less in length, have bolted belays and can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. The climbing is interesting and varied however, the quality of the rock and routes does not warrant a classic mention. They provide a unique mountain experience with fun easy climbing and great views close to Nelson. Each individual section is interesting on its own, linking multiple sections together as part of a day trip increases the quality of the experience.
The rock is fractured and loose granite, average by Rockies standards. The routes have been cleaned of major loose blocks but caution is advised and are not manicured like at a crag. Expect lichen, shrubs and dirty ledges. They should only be attempted by experienced climbers. Go to Whitewater Rocks to see detailed routes.
3. Southeast Ridge. Class 3.
FRA by the party of Qua Peak on May 31, 1992, on return from Qua Peak along the ridge running northwest from it. This party descended Ymir Mountain via the north ridge route after ascending the southeast ridge.
UNNAMED 2350m (LARCH PEAK)
Situated 4.2 km north of Ymir Mountain, and west of the head of Lasca Creek above Five Mile Creek, at 918-797. Only 1.4km NW of Half Dome.
