Mount Niflheim, Brynhild Peak, Mount Sigurd, Mount Andvari and Mount Thor were traversed west to east in the 1971 traverse of Stegosaurus Ridge. The 1971 party bivouacked high and climbed the north ridge of Mount Niflheim without setting foot on ice, and then made the very long traverse of all the summits. The route is exposed and there is some loose rock.
The 1971 traverse party probably rappelled the difficult pitches on the east ridges, so the maximum difficulty is probably about Class 5.6. The west ridge of Mount Sigurd (east) is Class 5.4 (see Route 2). The west ridge of Mount Thor was easy, with a little glacier travel on decent. Ice, Glacier (IV,5.4,s). The entire traverse of Stegosaurus Ridge is at least a IV. 8/1971.
BRYNHILD PEAK 2850m 9350′
In the traverse of Stegosaurus Ridge, Brynhild Peak is the western of the two, and has a south ridge. Mount Sigurd (east) has a north ridge and a south face.
1. West Ridge. Climbed by the 1971 party. When approached from a camp on its south side (see Mt. Niflheim and Un. 2670m), go up a steep, snow-filled couloir (two large chockstones, short rappels on descent) to the col between it and Niflheim. Climb on the ridge crest (beginning is 5.6; most is low Class 5) to a small notch below the summit block, and then ascend to the left of the block on the north side (exposed) to the top for 2.5 pitches.
To descend, climb down (not route of ascent) and rappel into the small notch. Rappel again for 50m onto a slab (the slab looks scary). Climb down the slab to just above the main couloir and make a 25m rappel into it. Eight pitches in all. (III,5.6,s,*).
Steve Horvath, Hamish Mutch, July 26, 1994.
2. East Ridge. Descended in 1971. The party of Mount Sigurd, Route 3, climbed the east ridge, Class 5.6. (above)
MOUNT SIGURD 2850m
Next west on Stegosaurus Ridge is Mount Sigurd with the long north ridge.
1. West Ridge, Traverse. The west ridge of Mount Sigurd (east) is Class 5.4
2. Northwest Glacier, West Ridge. Start from camp northwest of Mount Thor (in the valley of the Niflheim Cirque), and ascend the lower part of the glacier. Traverse up and left in the upper glacier below the “shooting gallery” (a cliff of loose rock with an ice cliff above). Climb straight up a 200-metre ramp of ice (4550 degrees) and head for the notch between Sigurd and Brynhild. Black ice in a narrow gully leads to the notch, and then climb the west ridge, using the south face on one pitch (5.4), 12 hours up. Ice, Glacier (IV,5.4,s). August 19, 1986.
There were seven rappels on the ice ramp, using pickets.
3. North Ridge. Ascend the ridge on the left (east) edge of the face, where the lower part of the north ridge widens into a face. There is some friction climbing on slabs to begin, and about 1000 meters in all. Mud-filled cracks, overhangs and considerable loose rock are at the bottom. There is much Class 3 climbing higher up, and a headwall with an easy Class 5 chimney two-thirds of the way. The rock is better higher up, in general, but with slippery lichen. The party of two bivouacked on the west ridge and climbed the east ridge of Brynhild, which was descended in 1971, and descended the glacier of Route 2. (IV,5.6,s). KJ, AVS, 20/8/1986.
