MALACHITE SPIRE 3040m
Malachite Spire is a chimney-like rock tower located 0.5 km north of Horseman Spire.
1. North Ridge. From camp at 2350 meters (7700 feet), ascend the east tongue of Carbonate Glacier (see Richards Peak). Start on the west side of Malachite’s north ridge and cross over to the northeast (snow, glacier) to ascend close to the summit where a notch in the north ridge gives access to the west side of the north ridge.
The final pitch is direct on north-facing slabs (rappel on descent). Ascent, 3.5 hours. Glacier (II,5.0,s). It may be more difficult than rated.
Jim Ongena, Tim Schoonmaker with Arnor Larson, 25/5/1987.
HORSEMAN SPIRE (MONUMENT SPIRE) 3035m
The southern of two prominent spires at the eastern edge of upper Carbonate Glacier. The FA party called it by the other name (summit record).
1. North-Northeast Ridge. From camp in International Basin, attain the upper glacier via the prominent rocky ridge leading to the northwest corner of the icefield, and cross to the col between Horseman and Malachite Spires. Climb the north-northeast ridge. The last 60 meters have exposed
There is an early pitch of Class 5.4 in a corner crack of smooth, unstable slate, and the final, slightly overhanging face is cut by an off-width Class 5.6 crack. Halfway up, an exposed traverse leads out to the tower’s edge and to the top. Both pitches were rappelled on the descent (2007). The smooth siltstone is slippery when wet. (PC: Roger Wallis)
Ascent, 5.5 hours. Glacier (II,5.6,s,*). 14/8/1953.
There is now a cairn (2007). The old record was left in a Vick’s Vapour Rub glass bottle.
UNNAMED 2650m 8694′
At 926-479, on the north end of the ridge between east and west (upper and lower) Carbonate Glaciers.
The helicopter camp for the 2007 group (12 minutes from Golden) was at the head of Carbonate Creek (936-478) below the ice cliffs of east Carbonate Glacier, just north of a small lake on the col of a moraine (no bugs). A beautiful bug-ridden meadow lies just north of the moraine.
The headwall and col (pass; 927-476) southwest of the camp were used to access International Mtn. (directly up the ridge), Horseman Spire (up the ridge and east across east Carbonate Glacier) and Battlement Mtn. (2007).
1. Southeast Ridge. Ascend the headwall southwest of camp, and climb the southeast ridge, an amusing scramble. (II,3,s).
FRA Don Chiasson, Wm. McKenzie, Roel Teunissen, 1/8/2007.
RICHARDS PEAK 3060m
Richards Peak is misplaced on the map. It is 0.4 kilometres east of International Mountain, between it and Horseman Spire.
1. West After the ascent of International Mountain, the FA party followed a rock buttress from upper Carbonate Glacier to the west ridge, and this to the summit. Ascent from the glacier, 2 hours. Glacier (II,4,s). 15/8/1953.
2. South Ridge. From camp at the head of Syncline Creek, climb the southern slopes of Richards Peak just east of the north fork of upper Syncline Reach the south ridge which easily leads to the summit. (II,2).
Dane Bridge, Wayne Sargent, John O. Wheeler, 8/1967.
3. East Ridge. From camp at 2350 meters (7700 feet) to the northeast, ascend the east tongue of Carbonate Glacier to the pass west of Malachite and Horseman Spires to reach the east ridge of Richards Peak, which is Class 3. Five hours up on soft snow; descent in 1.5 hours. Glacier (II,4,s).
Jim Ongena, Tim Schoonmaker with Arnor Larson, 24/5/1987.
