This small group of unusual peaks, also known as the “Fry Pinnacles”, lift their sharp wedges W of the main Purcell watershed. Visible from many points in the S Purcells, the towers are situated along the upper course of Forest Creek, some 12 mi E of Kootenay Lake between the heads of Campbell and Dewar Creeks. The S terminal forks of Forest Creek embrace the group, the W branch being known as Pinnacle Creek. There are several small hanging glaciers on the E side of the group. The Leaning Towers are sculptured from medium to coarse-grained, massively joined granite on the eastern border of the Fry Creek batholith. This granite is substantially equivalent to that of the Horsethief Creek stock from which the Bugaboo and Vowell Groups rise and offer similar climbing. The writing desk or scissor-like profile the group presents from a distance is attributable to the master joint sets in the granite-°both striking N, one vertical and the other dipping about 45 to the W.
The peaks at the S end of the group (The Molars and those S) have more closely spaced jointing than the N peaks of the Leaning Towers. Also included in this section are various isolated summits in the same general area.
ACCESS. Whichever of the approaches described below is ultimately chosen, one must expect to backpack and bushwhack for a minimum of 2 days, gaining and losing consider able elevation in the process. The arduous but only direct approach is from Kaslo, crossing Kootenay Lake (1765) by boat and following Campbell Creek. The BC Forest Service maintains a fire road about 5 mi up Campbell Creek (extended and regraded in 1971 and 1972) to a point just below the unburned timber (4100); 5 hr pack from Kootenay Lake. Continue E either on game trails close to the creek or on higher, burned slopes to the creek branch which drains Pinnacle Pass (6700) at the E head of the valley. Stay on the N side of this stream until talus slopes are reached, crossing then to the S side. Ascend to pass (beautiful but marshy campsites); 9 hr from the end of the road. Drop down due E about 1000′ to the top of the large talus slide, then angle NE to more slides leading toward the floor of Pinnacle Creek Valley.
Another approach from Kootenay Lake, via Powder Creek, has a distinct advantage over the Campbell Creek route. The road extending N from Riondel along the E shore of the lake goes up Powder Creek a distance of roughly 5 mi, so it is possible to drive to the end of the road. However, this is counterbalanced by the necessity to cross the divide above Powder Creek into the Campbell Creek drainage in order then to cross Pinnacle Pass, the only easy pass to Pinnacle Creek.
Travel in the Pinnacle Creek valley is tedious and comfortable campsites hard to find because it is littered with huge boulders and blocks. Customarily, 2 different bases have been used to climb peaks at opposite ends of the group. To reach the S peaks, camps have been placed at the tree line near the stream draining W from below the Wisdom Tooth; 4½ hr from Pinnacle Pass. To climb the higher N peaks, a camp at approx 8000′ in the NW cirque beneath Hall Peak is advantageous; a half day from either Pinnacle Pass or camp at the S end of the group.
Peaks along the ridges which run perpendicular to the main N-S axis, at the S end of the group, have been climbed from a camp S of that E-W ridge, beside an aquamarine lake in a cirque above headwaters of the St Mary River. Although this spot was reached from the W via Pinnacle Creek, a direct approach from the S up St Mary River bears investigation. Climbs on the E side of the massif have been made from the great E cirque at the head of the SE terminal fork of Fry Creek. The best approach appears to be from the end of the road on Dewar Creek and over the 7200′ pass immediately NW of that stream’s acute bend to the E; about 10 mi of fearsome BC bush.
Maps: 82F/15 Kaslo, 82K/2 Lardeau
WALL TOWER 2941m 9650′
Northernmost of the group.
From camp in the NW cirque of the group, ascend snow and/or talus slopes to the couloir between objective and Block Tower to S, taking it to the col between them (3¾ hr). Climb friction slabs to reach a minor eminence above the col. Descend slightly and tackle more big slabs which lead to a fairly level stretch of ridge. Work along a narrow, very exposed crest (a cheval on FA) which seems to be blocked by a huge granite monolith. Turn it by traversing right and climb a 70′ chimney, one wall of which is the monolith, to the summit (3 hr). Ascent about 7 hr; descent by the same route, 4 hr.
FA B. Blanchard, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave. S Ridge, 6/1933
BLOCK TOWER 2941m 9650′
On the main ridge next S of Wall Tower.
Via easy W slabs from NW cirque.
FA P. Morrow, C. Perry, 8/1973
HALL PEAK (Leaning Tower) 3040m 997,5′
The highest summit of the group.
1. From camp in NW cirque, gain upper basin and ascend headwall (sometimes a narrow ribbon of snow to facilitate this) to col (9000) just N of objective (4½ hr). Ascend slabby rock on the ridge to the summit in l½ hr. Good but moderate climbing. Ascent 6 hr; descent by the same route, 3¼ hr.
FA B. Blanchard, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave. N Ridge, 6/1933
2. NW Face. This route could be considered a variant of the above, but it is a more difficult and interesting alternative. Follow Rte 1 to col (1½ hr). Thereafter the route keeps several hundred feet W of the N ridge. For 2 pitches above the col, climb steep friction slabs using layback holds on the wall to the right. The slope eases off for a few hundred feet. The final summit wall (500′) consists of 45° slabs on which layback technique is repeatedly utilized. Toward the top holds become smaller and less obvious. 1½ hr col to summit. Many variations of detail are possible.
J. & P. Crosby, 8/1955
3. E Face. The route begins in the smaller open book right (N) of the prominent S-facing dihedral in the centre of this impressive 1500′ wall. About midway up face, traverse left into the main dihedral, following it to the upper bowl several hundred feet beneath the summit. The line then angles diagonally from left to the top. 2½ days; IV F9 A2
J. McComb, J. Myers, A. Twomey, 8/1975
THE PULPIT 3002m 9850′
Fingerlike S shoulder of Hall Peak.
Via easy W slabs (CAJ 59-9)
FA J. Boyd, B. Ehmann, 8/1975
THE PEW 2819m 9250′
Bump S of the Pulpit; presumably climbed.
SHARKSHEAD TOWER 2911m 9550′
Above the head of E fork of Pinnacle Creek.
From the same camp as for other southern peaks, cross to the base of the couloir on the N side of the peak, ascending it to col (3½ hr). N ridge to the summit provides good, varied and easy climbing (¾ hr). A second summit, about 2′ lower but much more spectacular, consists of a single sheer pyramid of granite 20′ high and is reached by a thin, curving edge of rock (a cheval on FA).
Ascent 4¼ hr; descent 2 hr.
FA R. G. Cairns, A. A. McCoubrey, Jr., R. Neave, 6/1933
2-SE Ridge. Jul 1972, G. Kuiken, P. & S. Morrow. Gain high col to S of objective and take ridge to the summit, passing over spectacular S summit (above). One pitch of F7 (CAJ 59-9).
CONSOLATION POINT 2880m 9450′
Gentle summit S of Sharkshead.
Via rotten couloir S of Sharkshead to summit ridge. l¼ hr up.
FA S. Kragh, C. Wagner, 8/1972
BIVOUAC TOWER 3002m 9850′
Highest peak at the S end of the group.
From camp below the southern peaks, ascend to the base of a big, snow-filled couloir on the NW side of the objective (2 hr). Climb steep snow and rock above to gain the summit ridge which is followed over slabs and blocks to the top. Ascent 6 hr. Descend by the same route (1 rappel at the top of the couloir on FA) in 3 hr.
FA R. G. Cairns, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave, 6/1933
WISDOM TOOTH 2972m 9750′
Next S of Bivouac Tower.
1. N Ridge. FA Jul 1972, Bergenske, S. McElroy. Route unknown but likely by steep couloir between objective and Bivouac Tower, the line taken by the 1933 party on their attempt. From col at the head of the couloir via N ridge.
2. SE Face. Gain col im mediately S of peak by rotten couloir (2¼ hr from camp). 6 pitches on steep but broken granite lead to the base of the final summit ridge. To avoid 10′ overhanging jam crack, traverse right onto E face. A delicate exposed F4 pitch leads to easy summit rocks (l½ hr from col). One rappel on the descent.
S. Kragh, C. Wagner, 8/1972
THE MOLARS 2941m 9650′, 9650, 2880m 9450, 2850m 9350′
A group of pinnacles between Wisdom Tooth and Eagle Crest.
A pleasant traverse in either direction, with difficulties rarely exceeding a scramble (CAJ 56-76; 59-9).
FA J. Bergenske, S. McElroy.Eagle Crest, 7/1972
EAGLE CREST 2850m 9350′
At the S end of the main axis of the group
From camp for southern peaks, angle up S across snow and/or talus slopes to the base of the wide shallow couloir on the SW side. Ascend couloir part way and then take to broken rocks, easy scrambling along the ridge leading to the top. Ascent, 5 hr; descent 3 hr.
FA B. Blanchard, R. G. Cairns, A. A. & A. A. Jr. McCoubrey, R. Neave, 6/1933
At the S extremity of the Leaning Towers Group, there are numerous minor summits on ridges which extend perpendicular to the main axis of the massif. One such, bearing the main Purcell watershed, runs E from near Wisdom Tooth and separates the SE terminal fork of Fry Creek from lower branches of Dewar Creek. There are a few peaks in the 9000′ class on this divide.
1½ mi farther S, another E ridge, comprising several 8000′ peaks, separates the headwaters of St Mary River and tributaries of Dewar Creek. The rock of both ridges is mainly gneiss and schist.
Ascents (all rated I, F3) of six peaks on these ridges were made in Jul 1975 by A. J. Kearney, C. Sink from camp by lake S of the main axis (see intro).
A more important ridge, again constituting the main water parting, runs in a SW direction across the S head of Pinnacle Creek. Three peaks almost 9000′ in elevation, and composed of sound granite, rise from this ridge and offer good climbing. FA’s of all three were made by the above-mentioned party, as described below.
Peak 8650 At the head of the SE terminal fork of Pinnacle Creek. Via NE ridge; II F7.
Peak 8950 ¼ mi W of the above. Via E face to the crest of NE ridge, passing left of a huge gendarme to regain crest beyond; II F9.
Peak 8950 At the head of SW terminal fork of Pinnacle Creek. Mountain’s NW ridge separates the latter from the S terminal fork of Campbell Creek. Approach from Pinnacle Creek and ascend snow on the NW side to gain W ridge. A short rappel from the false summit and one more pitch to the top; II F5.
MT TYRELL 2819m 9250′
Isolated summit 5½ mi E of Kootenay Lake in SW angle between Fry and Gillis Creeks; glaciers on E slope.
UNNAMED (Neave) 2819m 9250′
On Campbell-Gillis Creek divide. Closely jointed granite of Fry Creek batholith, locally loose.
DEVIL’S HORN 2637m 8650′
The minor peak at the head of Powder Creek, popular as a practice crag.
MT LOKI 2771m 9090′
5 mi E of Kootenay Lake on the divide separating Bernard and Loki Creeks.
1. Follow the undulating W ridge from the mouth of Loki Creek to the summit; 8 hr up.
FRA J. & P. Crosby, 8/1955
2. NE Ridge. Approach via road on Bernard Creek which extends approx 7 mi E from Kootenay Lake. Ascend avalanche chutes some 2500′ vertically to the ridge which is followed to the summit. Ascent 7 hr
K. Langhalle, D. Parfitt, M. Stein, 8/1971
