These mountains lie mostly W of the main Purcell watershed between the headwaters of Hamill and Glacier Creeks. They extend S from Jumbo Pass (7480, Jumbo to Glacier Creek) to Earl Grey Pass (7475, Toby to Hamill Creek). That small part of the group lying E of the divide rises between Jumbo Creek and the main stem of Toby Creek Those isolated summits located W of the NW branch of the Truce icefield, while geographically a part of this group, are treated elsewhere (see Chap 5) for reasons of access. In general, the higher peaks in this area are situated W of the main watershed as in the Toby Group to the S. The variable rock includes a reasonable proportion of granite.
ACCESS. (NB this account is from 1976 and is dated, but was left for interest). The earliest approaches to these peaks by mountaineering parties were from the E, following Toby Creek and its tributaries, in particular Jumbo Creek. This means of access remains in favour because a logging road, passable to passenger cars, is currently maintained in Jumbo Valley, extending some 9 mi from Toby Creek to the vicinity of Jumbo Pass. The principal peaks of the group, clustered around the Truce Icefield, are most conveniently climbed from camps placed in the upper valley of the S terminal fork of Glacier Creek, preferably near the tongue of the NE Truce Glacier. A backpack over Jumbo Pass of about 9 hr suffices to reach this spot.
In the wake of recent road building, parties have also utilized the shorter access route up Glacier Creek from the W, approaching peaks around the Truce Icefield by way of the NW glacier and neve. Shorter backpack but considerably longer approach marches.
Maps: 82K/8W, 82K/7E.
MT EARL GREY 3124m 10250′
The highest peak in Wangle is between Jumbo and Toby Creeks.
1. S Ridge. From the junction of Toby and Pharaoh Creeks, reach the cirque at the head of the latter. Ascend W along a watercourse, crossing to its W side at a small plateau above lower falls. Angle up W over snow, rock and a small hanging glacier to snow saddle in bold S ridge which is fol lowed closely, with occasional short traverses on the W side. Final towers offer airy climbing. Ascent 9 hr; descent 5 hr.
FA Jul 1928, E. Cromwell, J. G. Hillhouse, J. M. Thorington, C. Kain.
REDTOP MT 3109m 10200′
One mi WSW of Mt Earl Grey.
1. From camp on the S terminal fork of Jumbo Creek, ascend over a small glacier on the NW side to col (9000) in W ridge, from which summit is gained over loose slabs.
FA A. H. & E. L. MacCarthy, C. Kain. 8/1916
2. E Ridge. From camp (6500) above Toby Creek in basin S of objective, cross the obvious pass (8200) in SE ridge to gain glacier on the SE side of the peak. Cross it and ascend steeply to the crest of E ridge. A steep pitch on the ridge is negotiated by a 120′ crack which widens to a couloir, after which a scramble leads to the top. Ascent 7 hr.
A traverse may be made by descending Route l to the 9000′ col – and then rounding the SW side of the mountain to camp; descent 3 hr.
A. A. McCoubrey, F. & R. Neave, 7/1929
BLOCKHEAD MT 3063m 10050′
A massif of three summits, the highest (E) being flat-topped, between the S terminal fork of Jumbo Creek and Hamill Creek, an easy pass (8200) connecting the two.
Traverse E-W. Reach the pass (8200) E of the massif from the S terminal fork of Jumbo Creek, then ascend the SE ridge, consisting of granite blocks and slabs, to the highest point (5 hr). Continue W over the central peak (9650), composed of quartzite, to the W peak (9250), composed of shale. Descend W, then N, to return to camp
FA, H. 0. Frind, E. Hopkins, A. H. & E. L. MacCarthy, M. & W. E. Stone, G. E. & Vincent, C. Kain, 8/1916
UNNAMED 2941 m 9650′
¾ mi SE of Cauldron Mt.
From the head of S terminal fork of Glacier Creek, follow the glacier leading S to the summit of the objective. A descent to NE over three high points offers a pleasant traverse.
FA N. Goldsmith, J. Lee, C. Mullard, A. Larson, 7/1976
CAULDRON MT 3216m 10550′
Directly S of S terminal fork of Glacier Creek at SE corner of Truce Neve; 3½ mi W of Blockhead massif.
1. From the snow saddle (10000) between objective and Truce Mt via snow of W ridge in ¾ hr. Descend to Truce Neve by NW snow slopes and return to valley by approach (Route 1) for Truce Mt; 4 hr
FA MacCarthy party (see Truce), 8/1916
TRUCE MT 3246m 10650′
The apex of an extensive neve and radiating glaciers located be tween Glacier Creek, its S terminal branch, and Hamill Creek.
1. Traverse N-S. Depending on where on the S terminal fork of Glacier Creek one’s camp is placed, cross either the E or NE tongue of Truce Glacier and ascend to the prominent rock cleaver (8900) which divides them, thus bypassing the impressive icefalls and gaining the more level neve above (3 hr). Cross to col N of peak (1 hr) and climb the sharp N ridge, the last part of corniced snow. Ascent 5 hr. Complete traverse by descending easy SE ridge to snow saddle in ½ hr. RT, including ascent of Cauldron Mt, 10 hr.
2. W Face. From camp at 6000′ below the tongue of the NW branch of Truce Glacier, tramp SE 2½ mi across neve, pass W buttress of objective and climb directly up the centre of the face on snow mixed with good rock. Ascent 8 hr.
Petroske party (see Ocher Peak), 7/1971
HORSESHOE PEAKS 3155m 10350′
Six summits grouped around the mile-wide, N-facing glacier basin N of Truce Mt.
Gain the Truce Neve (3 hr) as in Route 1 for Truce Mt, then swing NW to reach glacial pass (9800) leading over to Horseshoe Neve at its SE corner (1½ hr).
Ascend N to 10150′ summit (Toad) in¼ hr.
Returning to pass, ascend the easy N ridge of the next peak (Quibble, 10350) in ½ hr.
Continue SW to reach the broad summit of Tranquility (10350, 1 hr).
Traverse W below irregular crest toward next peak, Squabble (10350). At the base of the first large couloir, climb directly to E ridge, following it (good granite, F3) over a false summit to the top (1 hr). Drop S in couloir between main and false summits to regain neve returning near summit of Tranquility before heading S to reach in 1¼ hr a gentle snow summit (Covenant, 10350).
Descend S ridge to Truce-Covenant col and head N across neve to rejoin the approach route. RT for the circuit, about 14 hr. Recommended.
FA H O Frind, A H & E L McCarthy, M & WE Stone, J Vincent, C Kain, 8/1916
OCHER PEAK 3094m 10150′
NW summit of Horseshoe Peaks.
Approach via Glacier Creek (see Chap 5) to camp at 6000 m valley of the S tributary whose source is the NW branch of Truce Glacier. Ascend onto the lower part of the glacier and then climb E up the steep slope to col (9500) ½ mi S of objective. Descend to Horseshoe Neve and head N over the snow to the broken rocks of the S ridge which leads to the sharp summit. 10 hr up from camp.
FA J. Barton, N. Dodge, T. Ettinger, G. Kirk, Petroske, M. Temple, 7/1971
EAGLE SPIRE 2789m 9150′
Granite peak NE of Horseshoe Peaks above NE tongue of Truce Glacier.
From the S terminal fork of Glacier Creek, ascend NW over slabs to the summit of Volley Mt (8750) E of objective. Continue SW along the rim of Horseshoe, climbing in turn a gendarme and the final spire (some class 5).
FA Jul 1969, J. Wells, alone.
FA (of eastern five) B. Beck, C. Wagner, J. Wells, 7/1969
