GLACIER DOME (Starbird) 3000m 9841′
Snow peak immediately W of Lake of the Hanging Glaciers.
1. Ascend grassy ledges W of the lake, traversing S along the top of bluffs to reach a small glacier. Continue working S below cliff bands, past the main peak, and ascend snow to ridge several hundred yards S of the summit. Follow S ridge easily to the top. Ascent 4 hr.
FA ACC party, 7/1928
2. W Approach. Jul 1928, ACC party. Many variations are possible on the glacier to W of the peak.
3. N Approach. From the top of the first bluff above the lake, head directly up to the sharp NE ridge which is followed until it is necessary to descend to the glacier on the N slope. Ascend this to the summit.
A. Maki, R. C. West, 8/1960
ACCESS FROM MONICA MEADOW
Climbing Glacier Dome is one of the major destinations from Monica Meadows. Travel along the Starbird neve is on glacier. The views south down the Jumbo Creek Valley and then down to Lake of the Hanging Glacier are spectacular.
Elevation Gain: 762m (2500′)
Key elevations: Camping area Monica Meadows 2234m (7330′), Starbird Neve 2774m (9100′); Glacier Dome 3000m (9841′)
Distance: 6kms one-way
Route: From Monica Meadows, access Starbird Neve at 244-856, .5km NW of Mt Osiris, the most northerly of the Egyptian Peaks. From the basin, ascend a ramp that angles right then jogs to the left as it approaches the neve. If you have found the right place, it is a walk directly onto the neve as it leads 3 km NE to Glacier Dome gaining 1200 feet. The route is on glacier almost the entire way. When I first did this, there was lots of snow and we were ignorantly unaware of what was below us. Then on a Labour Day weekend, the glacier was exposed and the neve was full of many deep crevasses.
The views from Glacier Dome are truly wonderful – glaciers everywhere, the lake far below.
