BLOCKHEAD MT 3060m 10,050′
A massif of three summits, the highest (E) being flat-topped, between the S terminal fork of Jumbo Creek and Hamill Creek, an easy pass (8200) connecting the two.
1. Traverse E-W. Reach the pass (8200) E of the massif from the S terminal fork of Jumbo Creek, then ascend the SE ridge, consisting of granite blocks and slabs, to the highest point (5 hr). Continue W over the central peak (9650), composed of quartzite, to the W peak (9250), composed of shale. Descend W, then N, to return to camp
FA, H. 0. Frind, E. Hopkins, A. H. & E. L. MacCarthy, M. & W. E. Stone, G. E. & Vincent, C. Kain, 8/1916
2. West Slopes. Drive to and camp at the south fork of Glacier Creek. Follow the east moraine and some meadows to the eastmost glacier on the ridge between Cauldron and Blockhead. Ascend the glacier to the ridge (crampons, route finding on exposed ice). Follow to the east until you find an easy spot to descend to the glacier on the southwest of Blockhead. This glacier is now broken in two, a smaller lower portion separated from the main upper glacier by recently exposed slabs. Ascend across the glacier from the west going NE to the summit.
1991 Trip: Go up moraine up the east side of Glacier Creek, to the glacier, then cross over to the west ridge to the west of a fin of lighter coloured rock via bergschrund and steep snow slope, then descend on rock diagonally from the ridge to the glacier draining to Hamill Creek, which was then ascended to the man summit.
1995 Trip: From the trail up the moraine, follow along the north face of Blockhead going east thinking there would be a route up some gully. They explored two or three alternatives not possible. The first ascent route involved a headwall and a bergschrund, so they instead climbed an easy summit immediately north of Blockhead for good views of Blockhead and the Truce Group. The ridge walk leading north to Jumbo Pass would make a good hike and a great loop hike.
1998 Trip: Drive to and camp at the south fork of Glacier Creek. Follow the east moraine and some meadows to the eastmost glacier on the ridge between Cauldron and Blockhead. Ascend the glacier to the ridge (crampons, route finding on exposed ice). Follow to the east until you find an easy spot to descend to the glacier on the southwest of Blockhead. This glacier is now broken in two, a smaller lower portion separated from the main upper glacier by recently exposed slabs. Ascend NE to the summit.
