CORK COUNTY
By far Ireland’s largest county, most visitors ignore its massive hinterland of dairy farms, dotted with low mountains and evergreen plantations. The 170km coast with its wide diversity is the main draw. The ports of Cobh, Youghal, and especially Kinsale have reinvented themselves as low-key resort towns. The coastline meanders through inlets, hidden coves, and a smattering of beaches. With a balmy climate, it attracts many Irish and Europeans. Popular watersports locals are Baltimore and Schull, the islands of Sherkin and Clear and Mizen Head and Sheep’s Head afford spectacular views.
Blarney Castle and the Blarney Stone
About 8kms NW of Cork, this place is a lot of blarney. If you must kiss the blarney stone for good luck, then go but it is expensive (€18.5 for an adult or €14.50 concession). The lines are huge as every tour company stops here and it takes often about an hour to wait in line to climb the 100 steps to the top of the 26m castle tower to reach the stone. The pace is so slow that virtually anyone can do it. The position to kiss the stone is the only interesting thing – with a man helping, you must lie on your back on a cushioned rubber mat, grab onto two steel bars with both hands and extend your back and neck completely. The chance of catching a disease must be high. It takes so long in line as this is a difficult position to achieve for many older people (the majority in tour groups) and it can be laborious just watching them get up and down. The stone is simply the bottom stone in the wall below the level of the floor with a space created to get your head back there. It has been coated with a grey artificial substance so that it doesn’t even look like a stone.
I would recommend going very early or late but not in mid-day when I was there. It took me 45 minutes in line and when I exited, the line was at least 20m longer. The castle itself is just ‘another castle’ – if you have seen one, you have seen them all, but the gardens and setting are nice.
There has been a castle of some kind here since 1210 and the present one was built by the Lord of Blarney, Cormac MacCarthy in 1446. It was besieged at least four times and taken once by Cromwell’s army. The MacCarthys were forced to leave after the Battle of the Boyne in 1690 and was purchased by the Jefferies family in 1703 who built the Rock Garden. It impressively sits on an 8m cliff of rock.
MacCarthy had been stalling Queen Elizabeth I’s emissary, Sir George Carew, who had been sent to restore English control of Munster, sidetracking him with wine, women and words. MacCarthy, it was said, could talk “the noose off his head” and over the centuries blarney came to mean “flattering, untrustworthy or loquacious talk associated with….Irish people”.
At some stage in the 19th century, with the beginnings of mass tourism, it became popular to kiss the Blarney Stone – and grant you the ‘gift of the gab’. Blarney is the varnished truth – flattery laid on with the lips, baloney is the unvarnished truth – flattery laid on so thick we hate it.
CORK CITY
The Republic’s second city, the center sits on a kilometer-wide island, much of it reclaimed from marshes, in the middle of the River Lee, with enclosing hills. Corkonians have a reputation for independence or spirit or even chippiness. It produces its national newspaper, the Irish Examiner, brews Murphy’s and Beamish, its version of stout, and supports a vigorous artistic, intellectual, and cultural life all its own.
The main street, St Patrick’s Street, was originally a waterway lined with quays and channels of the Lee breaking up the cityscape and requiring 20 bridges to cross. The harbour has a large concentration of roads and chemical factories and is most easily accessed near Black Rock Castle. The modern main industry is computers linked to the prestigious university west of the center. None of its sights are must-sees but it is a pleasant place to stroll. The city center is essentially the eastern part of the island with quaysides, bridges, old warehouses, and the narrow alleys of its medieval heart.
History. A monastery was established here in the 7th century. Three centuries later, the Vikings created a separate settlement on the marshes of the island, taken over by the Anglo-Normans in the 12th. Vast city walls were destroyed in the successful Williamite siege of 1690. The next century saw great wealth through the sale of butter and pickled meat and the development of the port for provisioning westbound sailing with glass, silver, and lace. The Act of Union and steamships brought stagnation in the 19th century. They suffered after the War of Independence and the Civil War and the Black and Tans burnt much of the city center to the ground in 1921.
Butter Museum. Across the river to the north, you can learn all you ever wanted to know. With its fertile hinterland and the largest natural harbour in the northern hemisphere, Cork became the main provisioning port in the Atlantic for the Royal Navy and trade convoys and most butter ended up in the West Indies. The production was inefficient with over 180 small co-ops and in 1961, only 7½ million pounds were shipped. In 1962, the Irish Dairy Board was established to improve the backward dairy farms, reduce the co-ops to nine, improve manufacturing, and market the butter to England as the Kerrigold brand guaranteeing prices and unlimited markets. In 1972 Ireland joined the EEC, and one billion pounds were exported by the 1980s. Butter is now exported to 83 countries and other products like cheese expanded the use of milk. €4 concession
Crawford Art Gallery. Downtown in a modern extension, besides the usual Irish art, there were good exhibitions by Philip Toledano (an NYC photographer), Heroes and Villains from its collection and art on Cork over the centuries. Free
Triskel Arts Centre. Also downtown and in the old Protestant Christchurch building, this venue hosts international films daily, hosts concerts, and even is a venue for weddings. The building is lovely with lots of wood and seating in cushioned pews. Free
Church Architecture. Central Cork has several attractive churches: St Finbarr’s Cathedral is the highlight, the Church of St Peter and Paul has lovely wood statues and confessionals, Holy Trinity has a nice lantern spire, and St Patrick’s on the northeast.
Cork Public Museum. In Fitzgerald Park to the west of the center, has the usual displays found in every city museum plus interesting ones on Jewish immigration and trench warfare in WW I. Free
Elizabeth Fort. On the south side of the river, this fort built in 1620 is the most important and best-preserved urban artillery fort in Ireland. Originally timber, the locals demolished it when James I assessed the throne and had to be rebuilt in stone at the cost of the local citizens in 1626. It is star-shaped with gun placements improved in 1801, barracks in 1826-42, and breech-loading guns in 1890. It has served as a female prison, fever hospital, and constabulary barracks and now is home to the Irish police force, the Garda Silochána. Free with €3 guided tour at 1 pm.
Black Rock Castle & Observatory. Sitting on the riverbank in east Cork, its guns defended the navigable river channel into Cork from smugglers, pirates, and enemies. It is very attractive with a large round keep and a higher round tower that served as a lighthouse. It has been refurbished into a Gothic landmark to house Cork’s Admiralty. It appears to mainly function as the site for a busy, attractive café with tables in the courtyard. Side buildings are home to the Observatory, a science center for astronomers, and Space Camps for budding astronauts. There was an interesting display on Comet 67P that was orbited by Rosetta, a space probe launched in 2004 and arrived at the comet in 2014. Its 12 science instruments have taught us a great deal about comets until it ran out of power in November 2014 www.bco.ie.
I overnighted next door to Black Rock on the water and had a very nice sunrise.
I had run out of gas for my stove for 3 days and was happy to have coffee and a hot meal. Having a camper van seems to be a never-learning experience – I found out the gas is butane available in non-refillable blue 2.5kg tanks such as Coleman or Camping Gas. It is much more expensive than propane but one small tank lasted me almost 2 months as it is only used for cooking.
Fota Wildlife Park. The former estate of Fota House (Fota Island has a mild climate with lush vegetation and is home to an arboretum and resort. The Wildlife Park is expensive (€16.5, 12 concession) and is underwhelming especially after being in great wildlife parks like the San Diego Wildlife Park, Etosha NP in Namibia, and Krueger in South Africa, despite the 70 acres of open countryside. It is renowned for its success in breeding cheetahs and its tropical house.
COBH. On the southern coast of Great Island on the estuary of the River Lee with extensive views of Cork Harbour, this historic resort clings onto a steep, south-facing slope with a promenade and gaily painted rows of Victorian hotels and houses. Much of the tourist traffic comes from dozens of cruise liners that dock here, continuing a long tradition for this fine natural harbour, one of the largest in the world.
Cobh was the port of call for the Sirius, the first steamship to cross the Atlantic in 1838 and for the Titanic, with the final 123 passengers boarding here on April 11, 1912, on her disastrous maiden voyage. The White Star Line ticket office where they assembled, backed by its now ruinous wooden pier has been turned into a visitor experience (while first class had a heated swimming pool, the 700 third-class passengers had to share two baths). Many of the victims of the sinking of the Lusitania in 1915 were buried in the Old Church Cemetery, 2 km north of Cobh. The port was also a major supply depot during the American and Napoleonic wars and became Ireland’s main point of emigration after the Great Famine.
St Coleman’s Cathedral. This lovely Church of Ireland has stained glass everywhere, marble columns with Corinthian capitals, wood pulpits, a great wood vaulted ceiling and elaborate stucco carvings in the side chapels and one of the fronts of the church. I happened to enter during a funeral so didn’t get the walk around I wanted.
WATERFORD COUNTY
Most of the attractions are located in Waterford City. The coast has several sandy beaches, the blossoming harbour town of Dungarvan and the ‘holy city of Ardmore. The north of the county is dominated by the boggy Comeragh and Knockmealdown mountains.
Mount Mellray Abbey. North of the highway between Cork and Waterford, it ended up being a long drive on backroads but pretty Blackwater Valley to get to this church (I’m not sure if it was worth the long drive). St Benedict (480-546) wrote “Rules for Monks” starting monastic learning. The Cistercian Order was established in 1098 by St Bernard and it was brought to Mellifort, Ireland in 1142 and 8 Cistercian monasteries were established all over the country.
After the French Revolution, religious life was suppressed and several came to St Susan in Lulworth, Dorset. After the Penal Laws of 1815, they were expelled from here and returned to France to establish the Mellray Abbey in Brittany. They were expelled from here and 64 monks landed in Cobh in 1831 and founded this Abbey on 600 acres of rocky land. With the help of 10,000 local men who donated their labour, they built the original Abbey between 1837-42 and planted 17,000 trees. By 1848, there were 103 monks here. That abbey was demolished and the present one was built in 1937-1940.
There are still Cistercian monks here today. Their entire life is devoted to God and they pray seven times a day with the first at 4 am. They are also self-sufficient farmers with a modern dairy herd and new cow shed built in 1990, make their own bread, run the Abbey, and are vegetarian. A guesthouse is open to all. Some of the monks have also established a monastery in New Zealand.
The complex consists of many fine brick buildings, the Abbey with some OK mosaics and the much larger Community Church with a glass dome in the central tower. Have I told you too much (I wrote so much to justify the drive)?
WATERFORD CITY
History. On the River Suit, the first settlement was built by the Vikings in the early 10th century. They exacted tribute from the locals called Nose Money since the punishment for welshers was to have their noses cut off. The Anglo-Normans led by Strongbow conquered the city in 1170, the city was granted royal protection and King John built walls and towers. Though much affected by the Black Death, it flourished as a port reliant on wool hides, and imported French wine. Cromwell’s armies eventually took control in 1650 and most Catholic merchants were expelled – later reinforced by William of Orange’s accession. Shipbuilding prospered during the 19th century, second only to Belfast. The famous crystal was first manufactured here in 1783. Waterford Crystal moved into a gleaming new shop and factory in 2010, producing 45,000 pieces per year. Beech and pearwood moulds, the blowing room with its 1300°C furnace where the molten crystal is shaped and then cut with diamond-tipped wheels are the highlights.
With over half the county’s population including a sizeable mob of students, it has few allures and not a great reputation. The vista from the center is an ugly industrial development with cranes and a refinery. Unappealing quays are separated from the center by one huge continuous parking lot. But behind all the above is a complex of narrow lanes.
Waterford Treasures is a historical collection dating from the Viking period and recently split into three fine museums.
1. Reginald’s Tower. Six of the original 17 towers still survive and this is the most impressive. It now displays the Viking collection.
2. Medieval Museum. I saw this museum on an excellent guided tour showcasing some real treasures: the 1270 Choristers’ Hall, the 15th century Mayor’s Wine Vault, the 1373 Great Charter Roll, the Edward VI sword and some incredible religious vestments (hidden from Cromwell’s forces during the 10-month standoff).
3. The Bishops Palace. Housed in a 1743-1750 dark-grey limestone building, it is refurbished in the Georgian style and has the oldest surviving piece of Waterford Crystal, a 1789 wide-lipped decanter. This third part of the Waterford Treasures is not as compelling as the first two.
Christ Church Cathedral. It has the somewhat grisly tomb of James Rice, the 15th-century mayor of Waterford graphically depicting his decaying corpse fed upon by worms and a toad.
KILKENNY & CARLOW COUNTIES
The county’s attractions center on its namesake city with many historical sites.
KILKENNY CITY
Supposedly Ireland’s most atmospheric medieval city, it straddles the River Nore. Downhill from the imposing castle is a compact grid of narrow streets dating back to the city’s origins, though little of the gated walls remain.
Following the 1641 Rebellion, Kilkenny became the focus of the Catholic Confederation, an unlikely alliance of royalists and Irish landowners dispossessed by the Plantation. They established a parliament here aimed at attaining Irish self-government and, in the process, restoring the rights of Catholics. This was all dashed by Cromwell’s arrival in 1650.
The city is largely untarnished by inappropriate modern building developments, but it still looks like most Irish small cities. With the castle and numerous other sites, it has become an integral part of the Irish tourist trail. And as a result, everything is charged for.
I was up early and driving by 8 am as this was a big day – and 9 NM ticks*. Leighlenbridge and Duiske Abbey are in Carlow County.
Leighlenbridge*. Near Kilkenny, this is in the Nomad Mania ‘Small Town’ series, but I wonder why? The signs approaching it say Leighlenbridge Heritage Town, but there is nothing ‘heritage’ about it. The River Barrow and the stone bridge that crosses it at the entrance to this tiny hamlet is lovely but that is where it ends. The small, minor ruins of Black Castle* sit at the town end of the bridge. It was first built by Hugh de Lacy in 1181 to protect a ford in the river and rebuilt many times by the Fitzgeralds, Kavanaghs, Butlers, Thomas ‘the Lusty’ Stuckley (a mercenary who conspired to invade England), and Sir Philip Carew (whose father once led him around on a dog leash for punishment). It was mostly rebuilt in the 16th century and finally destroyed in 1660 by Colonel John Hewson, a signatory to King Charles I’s death warrant and tasked with finding an executioner to behead the king. (They all sound like losers and now that you know way more than necessary about this meaningless place, there is no reason to waste your time – unless you want 2 NM ticks).
Duiske Abbey* (Graiguenamanagh). SE of Kilkenny, this was the largest Cisterian monastery in Ireland founded here in 1204 and completed in 1224. All monastic life ended when Elizabeth I killed the last 12 monks and the building and grounds were sold and it lay in ruins by 1728. A thatched roof was built in 1812 and a major renovation in 1974. It was another NM site not worth the drive. The inside is plain whitewashed stone. The above is all the history I could glean.
After driving on an amazing number of back roads for almost 1½ hours to see these two, I arrived back in Kilkenny just in time for the castle to open.
Kilkenny Castle*. Sitting above the River Nore, it was built in the early 13th century and survived a siege by Cromwell in 1650. The grand gateway, the parklands extending to the SE, and more were added over the years. The financial failure of the Butler family in 1935 led to its disrepair until it was purchased by the Irish state in 1969.
Inside the hall, tiled with black Kilkenny marble, the library, drawing room, and 19th-century style bedrooms are seen. The extraordinarily long gallery occupies the entire length of the River Wing. The former kitchens in the basement house the Butler Gallery devoted to contemporary art. €6 concession
Medieval Mile Museum*. Housed in the old St Mary’s church, this museum recounts the history of all the sights between the castle and the cathedral. €8 with audio guide, €12 with tour
Rothe House. This Tudor building (1594-1610) has the history of the house, two huge fireplaces and a king-post roof made of oak beams. Gardens are the back. €8
St Canice’s Cathedral*. A 9th century 30m round tower is the only vestige left of St Canice’s monastic settlement. The doorway is 10 feet above the ground as the bottom is solid to add strength to the tower. Built-in the 13th century, this Church of Ireland Cathedral remains true to its date of origin making it the best-preserved medieval cathedral in Ireland. After the 1552 Reformation, the English Protestant bishop was cast out by the Roman Catholic townsfolk. In 1650, Cromwell devastated the church opening all the tombs in the transept and it was restored in the 18th century. The carved interior has several 16th and 17th-century tombstones, effigies of the Butler family, and 2 Harry Clarke stained glass windows. €7 combined ticket to climb the tower and see the church. €4 church only.
Black Abbey*. Actually the Holy Trinity Church, is called the Black Abbey thanks to the color of the habits of the Dominicans. Dating from 1225, it fell into disrepair after the Reformation and is now fully restored. It has a lovely 12 pane stained glass rosette window. Free
I was a bad boy and wrote in the guest book “Vote, yes, women should have a choice and unwanted children tend not to do well”. This refers to the May 25 referendum to repeal Article 8 of the constitution of Ireland forbidding abortion. It is a very hot and emotional issue in Ireland. Signs for both sides festoon every light standard. One NO poster says “One in five babies in England are aborted” – I think this speaks for the yes side indicating the significance of having abortion widely available. I wonder how many of that 20% are Irish women inconveniently having to go to England for abortions. The unpopular Catholic Church favouring the NO vote may be the tipping point in a YES result. The sexual molestation of boys has emptied the Catholic churches.
