Malta – March 3-7, 2019
From the Volkswagen dealer, it was a short walk to Villa Bonilla and the train to Fiumicino Airport. I arrived at 19:30, my flight was at 10:10 and the AirMalta desk was closed so I was forced to stay landside in Terminal 1 – almost no restaurants, all the seats had arms and there was only a hard floor. Airside in Terminal 1 has reasonably soft places to sleep at gates E12, and E52, reclining chairs in B9, B11, D1 and H3.
A coffee shop in arrivals had some soft benches so I parked myself there writing this sad story. There were no electric plugs. I often sleep in airports (go to www.sleepinginginairports.net to get advice) and some are wonderful with lounge chairs but this was almost as bad as it gets. To avoid the high baggage fees, I only had a small carry-on knapsack and a sleeping bag but no pad. And I had planned on doing the same thing on my return from Malta as my flight arrived at 17:50. I hate paying for hotels. I was kicked out of here at 21:00 and eventually slept well on some blue soft seats at the north end of departures (ADR Assistance sign). Despite the bright lights and all the stewardesses walking by in their high-heeled shoes, I had a good sleep. When I woke up, the other spots were all occupied. At 9 am, I was kicked out of here.
TIPS for MALTA
1. Malta Museum and Travel Cards. What you buy will depend on what your needs are. If you are a family and not going to many museums but will be going to restaurants, then the Discount card might be right. When I googled, all I could see was this card so I bought it and it was a terrible deal for me. If you go to many museums, then the Heritage card would be correct.
a. Malta Heritage. For 25 E for 2 days, this gives free admission to most museums (not the private ones). I ended up buying this for my last 2 days.
b. Malta Discount Card. Gives 10 days with up to 50% discounts at 150 establishments mostly restaurants. Buy online, get the app and they deliver to your hotel. You must have a physical card to get benefits. I ordered this on a Saturday and it wasn’t delivered to my hostel until Monday, so it was even less valuable. Some museums only give 30% discounts. €25
c. Tallinga card. This travel card for 21E for 7 days gives free transport on all buses and some ferries in Malta. If you don’t have a car, this is a good deal. But I think you would be waiting at a lot of bus stops, and the bus does not go everywhere.
2. Costs. I found Malta in March unbelievably cheap: Return airfare from Rome on Air Malta (carry on only) – €169; Hostel four nights, free breakfast (Inhawi in St Julian rated 9.4) €45; car rental four days (declined insurance) – €12.96. Total fixed costs €227. Food in restaurants is comparably priced to the rest of Europe.
3. Car rental. Unbelievably cheap. Watch if can take to Gozo on the terms and conditions as one agency charged €177 for this. Need International Drivers License. One of the main advantages of an elite credit card is that it pays for insurance – and much better insurance – if the car is paid for with the card.
4. Electrical Plug. The same 3-plug as the UK, although there are some 2-pin European sockets.
5. Driving in Malta. This is not for the faint-hearted. Malta has the 5th highest population density in Europe and the highest car ownership on the continent. Most of the roads are narrow and not uncommonly one lane hedged in between high rock walls. The only prevention is extreme defensive driving – go slow and watch for the asshole trucks. Motorcycles are distinctly rare – I only saw three in over 4 days of driving everywhere.
a. Like many former British colonies, they drive on the left side of the road, but at least you get a car with the steering wheel on the right side. Shifting with your left hand is an issue. After driving for 50+ years on the other side ingrains many habits that could pose a problem, especially in situations where you must act reflexly. I have had some practice having driven in New Zealand, Namibia, South Africa and 3 months in the British Isles. Practice somewhere safe before getting onto the roads (the airport parking lot might be one place).
b. The major roads present no special problems but many roads are so narrow that 2 cars can’t pass. Large vehicles like buses and trucks are not meant to be on these sorts of roads, but they are everywhere. The truck drivers are generally jerks and are often in your lane and driving too fast.
c. Malta drivers are impatient and intolerant, and many drive at speeds inappropriate for the road. Many cut corners. But following close is not the problem it is in Italy.
6. Hal Saflieni Hypogeum
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of the Megalithic Temples of Malta, and the prime tourist site in Malta make sure to make a reservation online as early as possible. Only 10 people are allowed in every hour and 80/day and depending on the time of year reservations book out MONTHS ahead. The normal adult price is 40 euros, booked early it is 20 euros for seniors. At slow times of the year, there are last-minute tickets available at the site, but none of the reductions apply. I arrived on March 6 at 10 am and got one of the last tickets for noon the next day.
The tour is given totally by audioguide. The small size of the groups is dictated by the small size of the viewing areas.
Day 1
After the one-hour and 10-minute flight to Malta, I got my rental car (Gold Cars 12.95 for 4 days!) and then had one of my more frustrating travel days. All my saved sites disappeared from Google Maps so my itinerary was difficult to determine. I was driving on the left side of the road in a very unfamiliar vehicle (a small Peugeot) and I bought a cheap cell phone holder for the windshield that broke within a few hours so my phone was not as visible as it could be. After being taken on a lot of backroads, the only positive was that I didn’t have an accident.
On my first afternoon, I saw the only sights on the east side of the island.
MARSAXLOKK (pop 3,500)
This small, traditional fishing village is in the South Eastern Region of Malta.
Most of Malta’s fish supplies are caught by fishermen coming from this port as about 70% of the Maltese fishing fleet is based there. Swordfish, tuna, and the popular ‘lampuki’ are caught in abundance between spring and late autumn. It has a harbour and is a tourist attraction notable for its picturesque views, its fishermen and history. The village is also known for the Marsaxlokk Market, a large fish market that takes place along the seafront on Sundays, and a tourist market during all other days of the week. Inhabited and well-known since antiquity, Marsaxlokk was used as a port by Phoenicians, and Carthaginians and also has the remains of a Roman-era harbour.
I arrived to see a large dance festival in the small town square in front of the church. Many little girls were in ornate outfits particular to their group. The flea market lined in the entire harbour full of little colourful fishing boats.
Parish Church of Our Lady of Pompei. The parish of Marsaxlokk was established when fishermen started to build houses near the sea coast to save time on travelling. Thus at the end of the 19th century, it was decided to build a church that would minister to the spiritual needs of the fishermen and their families. Started in 1897, in the 1900s the church was enlarged altering the shape to that of a Latin cross and in the late 1920s a new west front was constructed
In 1899 a statue representing the Virgin Mary with baby Jesus presenting a rosary to Saint Dominic and Saint Catherine of Siena was presented to the church. The church also has a number of paintings by Giuseppe Calì.
Unfortunately, on a Sunday afternoon, it was closed, unusual for a Catholic church.
ZURRIEQ. An NM “small town”, this small village on the south coast of Malta is popular with divers because of the Um el Faroud tanker wreck. Scuttled in 1998, three years after an explosion that killed nine dockworkers in Grand Harbour, a plaque was also erected in the dockyard to commemorate the lives of the fallen. After an unsettling journey with a moderate easterly swell, the Um el Faroud came to rest at 35m on the sand where you can see the 3,147 gross ton vessel, a single screw tanker, built in Middleborough, England in 1969. The dive site is normally referred to as the Blue Grotto, although the actual Blue Grotto is half a mile to the west of the inlet and can only be reached by the sea. The entry/exit point can get very busy at peak times and the sea conditions must be checked for the currents can be hazardous. Care must also be given to the ample tourist boats that are in the area, and the fisherman lines. The wreck itself has been prepared for diving, with all doors and windows removed, and entrances and exit holes cut. Do not stay too long, to ensure you can explore the reef on the return. This is a great dive, suitable for experienced divers only, and using a 15l cylinder.
The “town” itself degenerates into narrow roads and rock walls surrounding small fields. Back into the actual village, I saw this well-known windmill.
Xarolla Windmill. (Mithra tax-Xarolla). Most windmills in Malta were built by the Knights with similar construction – a square stone building for a base topped by a round stone tower for the antennae with wood workings and grinding stones. Most were destroyed when steam power arrived – much more dependable than wind.
The Xarolla mill was built in 1724 (Xarolla means “top of the hill”) with a second story added in 1791. This was the last mill to serve the public in Malta when steam power made it impractical in 1939-49. It was severely damaged by storms in 1970 and was abandoned until 1996 when the city restored it and eventually converted it into a small museum in 2004. It is only open for visits on Saturdays/Sundays from 8-12 am. 3 E
Tal-Qrendi Windmill. South of the airport, this was impossible to find on Google Maps. It is on the south side of the town of Qrendi at this address: Sqaq f1 Triq L-Imqabba Mqabba. Its structure is similar to the others – a square stone base with a round tower. The cap and vanes are absent.
Verdala Palace, Siggiewi. This palace is on the east limits of the town of Siggiewi. It was built in 1586. The site originally had a hunting lodge in the Boschetto, a large semi-landscaped area that was used by knights of the Order of Saint John for game hunting. It was further embellished in the 17th and 18th centuries.
During the French blockade of 1798–1800, the palace served as a military prison for French soldiers captured by the Maltese or British. During British rule, it became a silk factory, but it was eventually abandoned and fell into a state of disrepair but was fully restored 1850s. It subsequently became the official summer residency of the Governors of Malta. At the outbreak of World War II in 1939, works of art from the National Museum were stored at the palace for safekeeping. The palace was restored in 1982 and began to be used to host visiting heads of state.
Since 1987, the Verdala Palace has been in use as the summer residence of the President of Malta, and it is generally closed to the public except for the August Moon Ball held annually in aid of the Malta Community Chest Fund.
I then drove north to my hostel, Inhawi Hostel in St Julian. With a high Hostelworld rating, it is a lovely place occupying an old school. A dorm room was 13 E including breakfast. The harbour of St Julian is surrounded by multiple restaurants and British-style bars, full of Brits watching English football. I ate possibly my third meal in a restaurant in a year.
Day 2
The plan today was to see the southwest and centre of the island.
Ghar il-Kbir. When you first arrive at Clapham Junction and Ghar il-Kbir (Great Cave) there is nothing to see and no signs – just rolling hilltops covered in grey limestone rock, Dingli Radar Dome and Buskett Gardens in the distance. Either follow the sandy road to the right as you come up the hill or follow the tarmac road until you get to the bungalow on the top. You still will not be able to see anything more apart from the limestone Quarry to the South. Walk west away from the house towards the telephone pole. Head north on the main path, then west to reach the main cart ruts at Clapham Junction. It is thought that the ruts were formed especially after rains when the limestone is 80% softer.
The cave complex is a series of interconnecting caves next to Clapham Junction ruts. The cave even has cart ruts going into it. The cave complex consists of 8 smaller caves on two levels surrounding a large natural cavern whose roof has collapsed. The residents inhabited the smaller caves building stone walls inside and at the entrance. There is some wall paintings, loops in the ceiling, ducts, shelves and niches.
Inhabited from prehistoric times until 1835, their best description is from a visit by a Jesuit in 1637. The cave ceiling had openings to let light in and smoke out, keeping efficient ventilation, while rain could not penetrate their living area. These Troglodytes decorated their walls and ceilings with bunches of herbs, garlic and onions.
Dingli Cliffs. The south side of the island is rural and lined by 200m high cliffs especially prominent in the middle near the high point of the island where the Parish Dome and communication towers are. Below the road are quaint villages and then the perpendicular plunge into the Mediterranean. The cliffs stretch for a few kilometres and are white sedimentary limestone. Some caves on the edges and the cliff face served as hideaways to escape pirates. The farmers used to climb or descend into the caves employing ladders, pull them in during the night and disguise the entrance with rubble walls or tree branches. Some with easier access were permanently inhabited and later on, used as shelters for herds.
The view includes the islet of Filfla – a nature reserve – that contains faunal and floral endemic species. Up to a few years ago, this islet was a shooting target for the British Military to test the accuracy of its equipment and to train personnel. The size of Filfla was reduced drastically through this practice.
Diawara Waterfall. If you walk along the cliffs, you come to a small bay Ras-id-Dawwara, at Wied Ghar Ilma, at the head of which is a small waterfall, a real rarity in Malta, that depending on rainfall from November to April, a small stream flows over the edge falling into the ocean above a sea cave. I could not find this as there was no waterfall.
Megalithic Temple and Punio Roman Remains at Ras Ir-Raheb. I made finding this a real walkabout, but one that was very enjoyable – complete solitude in a wonderful natural setting. I didn’t pay much attention to the map and so turned left heading for all the eroded cliffs and a wide bench just above the water. As there were no remains here, I returned and followed the coast to the end of the peninsula staying left of all the Private signs. Right at the tip were some ancient stone foundations and two standing stones.
Mgarr. Another NM “small town” of dubious significance.
RABAT
St. Paul’s Catacombs are some of the most prominent features of Malta’s early Christianity archaeology. The archaeological clearing of the site has revealed an extensive system of underground galleries and tombs dating from the third to the eighth centuries CE.. There are over 30 hypogea in the entire St. Paul’s and St. Agatha’s complex[, over 20 are open to the public.
They are part of a large cemetery once located outside the walls of the ancient Greek city of Melite, now covered by the smaller Mdina and Rabat. It also comprises the catacombs of Saint Agatha, San Katald, St. Augustine and many others.
The cemetery probably originated in the Phoenician-Punic period. As in Roman tradition, Phoenician and Punic burials were located outside city walls. The many tombs discovered in areas outside the known line of the Roman city suggest that the city of Melite was close to equal size.
The early tombs consisted of a deep rectangular shaft with one or two chambers dug from its sides. This type of burial was used well into the Roman occupation of the islands, but the chambers grew larger and more regular in shape over time. It is probable that this enlargement joined neighbouring tombs and led to the creation of small catacombs, which became the norm by the fourth century AD. The catacombs were in use till the seventh, possibly eighth century. Some of the catacombs were used again during the re-Christianisation of the Island around the 13th century.
The main complex, covering an area of more than 2000 square metres, is so far the largest catacomb on the island. It is large enough to have served as a communal burial ground in successive phases of Malta’s history. The two halls at the bottom of the entrance stairs show two agape tables (circular tables hewn out of the rock and used for ceremonial meals commemorating dead relatives).
Although the complex contains almost all of the burial types found in the Maltese repertoire, the best represented are so-called baldacchino tombs. These free-standing, canopied burials dominate the main corridors of the complex; their four elegant arches and supporting pillars are exemplary. Other decorations within this catacomb include illustrations and written messages in red paint.
Another catacomb is much smaller than the first. The surgical tools carved in relief on one of the three blocking stones in the inner chamber suggest that it was the burial place of a particular family or group of surgeons. The 24 catacombs show evidence of Christian, Pagan and Jewish burials side-by-side and no visible divisions. €2.50 reduced
Parish Church of St. Paul. Like many of the parish churches, this has limited opening times, apparently 5-9 am and 5-7 pm.
Wignacourt Museum (Grotto of St Paul). Next door to the parish church, it has many religious paintings
Roman Villa. This excavated Roman house has some nice artifacts and mosaic floors, the highlight is the drinking doves.
MDINA.
Mdina is a fortified medieval town on a large hill in the centre of Malta far from the sea. Only 9 km2, it is completely enclosed in bastions. With a small population of about 250, it is located next to the village of Rabat with a population of over 11,000 people. The town was the old capital of Malta, and with its narrow streets, few inhabitants and beautiful views over the island it is truly a magical town. Referred to as the “Silent City” by Maltese and visitors alike – no cars (except those of a limited number of residents) have permission to enter Mdina and the town provides a relaxing atmosphere among the visitors walking its narrow streets and alleys.
History. Mdina (Maleth) was first inhabited and fortified around 700 BC by the Phoenicians. Under the Roman Empire, the Roman governor built his palace in Mdina and it is said that even St. Paul stayed there after he was shipwrecked in Malta.
It was the Normans who surrounded the city with its thick defensive fortifications and widened the moat around the walls. After an earthquake in 1693, the city was redesigned adding Baroque architecture, and the Knights of Malta rebuilt the cathedral as well as the Magisterial Palace and Palazzo Falzon. The medieval town of Mdina presents a mix of Norman and Baroque architecture and is the home to many palaces, most of which today serve as private homes.
The gate that stands at the entrance today is not the original entrance; the bridge was built later on to enable cars and people to enter Mdina. The original entrance gate stands approximately 100 meters to the left.
Natural History Museum. A typical N H museum with many stuffed animals, it has over 10,000 rocks and minerals, 3,500 birds, bird’s eggs and nests, 200 mammals, 200 fish and thousands of local and exotic shells and insects.
Cathedral of the Conversion of St. Paul. In the main square, in the heart of the town, is this majestic Cathedral, on the site where St. Paul converted Publius to Christianity. It is an artistic gem from the 17th century with marble floors, altars columns and lots of gilt.
Cathedral Museum: Originally a seminary, the museum has an impressive collection of sacred art, famous paintings, coin collections, Roman antiquities and original documents from the time of the Inquisition and the early Università. There is also a wonderful series of woodcarvings by Albrecht Durer.
Palazzo Falzon: Dating back to the 13th century, it is the best best-preserved medieval building in Mdina. Once known as “The Norman-House” as Grandmaster L’Isle Adam paid his first visit to Mdina, he lived in Palazzo Falson. This palace was the former home of Captain Gollcher (1889-1962), an artist who collected several pieces of art and historical objects forming the collection of antique paintings, silver, furniture, armour, books and many other displays of great antiquarian interest. It was recently renovated with a rooftop cafe, boasting lovely views.
Carmelite Church and Priory: This 17th-century building has impressive works of art, a museum, a gift shop and a cafeteria allowing insight into the spiritual way of life of the friars.
MOSTA
Jesus of Nazareth Windmill. (Trig II-Methna I-Qadima). In Mosta, Google Maps could not find this name and took me 3 blocks away when the Maltese name was used. Typically, it has a square stone base and round tower, but the cap and antennae have been removed. The bottom appears to still serve as a residence.
Rotunda (Church of St. Mary). This round church has gilt capitals, marble inlaid floors, columns, baptismal font and altars, a lovely wood-carved pulpit and frescoes on the ceilings. 2E
Lija. An NM “small town”, I don’t understand its inclusion in the series – there was little here but small fields surrounded by rock walls.
ATTARD
Parish Church of St. Mary. Like so many parish churches on Malta, this was not open but I had a good look at the outside.
San Anton Gardens. The French knight Antoine de Paulo, a Grandmaster of the Order of St John, built this private residence. Since it has been used by the rulers of the islands. Today it is the private residence of the President of Malta. Since 1882, the gardens have been open to the public. Many of the trees date to the 17th century. There were good flower beds despite the time of the year, many fountains, a maze, bird cages (one had a golden pheasant) and several sculptures. Free
Balzan. Another NM “small town” of dubious significance.
Day 3
The plan today was to see the northwest of Malta and then take the ferry to Gozo.
Naxxar. An NM “small town”, there is not much to see here. Google Maps took me to a rural road between rock walls.
QAWRA
The villages of Qawra and Dwejre are tentative WHS (19/05/1998), but I don’t understand why – they seemed like normal small towns along the NW corner of Malta – mostly modern apartments, a small touristic rocky beach and a normal downtown commercial area to the east.
Malta National Aquarium. Housed in a lovely building on the water east of the town, the ground floor is all restaurants and the aquarium is below ground. 20E
Malta Classic Car Collection Museum. I tried to see this but could with one road closure and only one-ways, I could not get near or find any parking.
Selmun Palace. Built by the knights in 1783 as a summer residence/hunting lodge, it is a square 2-story block with towers on each corner with commanding views of to the east. The interior consists of two large halls on top of each other with 4 side rooms each. It was damaged in an aerial attack during WWII and has been closed to the public for some time. The parking lot was chained off and guards prevented any access to even peer through the windows; apparently, it is being used for filming.
MELLIEHA
Surrounding Mellieha Bay, this town is built on a steep hillside.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieha is a lovely small church with nice frescoes, intricate marble inlaid floors, marble altars and walls and a nice mosaic of out lady held up by 2 angels. There are many pilgrimage testimonials thanking the lady for some miracle. The church was visited by Pope John II in 1990. It is just below the much larger parish church closed for renovation. Free
Popeye’s Village. This theme park was developed on the movie set of the movie. I didn’t go here as I could not find any exits off the highway.
Red Tower (St Agatha’s Tower). Built in 1644 on the most westerly hill, it was used to transmit messages to Valletta. It was defended by 3 militiamen but could up to 50. It gives panoramic views.
It was closed for refurbishment. €2
GOZO
The second-largest island in the archipelago, it is more rural, less developed and known for its scenic hills, featured on Malta’s coat of arms. The island of Gozo has long been associated with Ogygia, the island home of the nymph Calypso in Homer’s Odyssey. In that story, Calypso, possessed of great supernatural powers, and in love with Odysseus, holds him captive for several years, until finally releasing him to continue his journey home.
As of March 2015, the island has a population of around 37,342 (out of Malta’s total 475,000), and its inhabitants are known as Gozitans. It is rich in historic locations such as the Ġgantija temples, which, along with the other Megalithic Temples of Malta, are among the world’s oldest free-standing structures.
It was known for the Azure Window, a natural limestone arch that was a remarkable geological feature, until its collapse in 2017. The island has other notable natural features, including the Inland Sea and Wied il-Mielaħ Window. There are many beaches on the island, as well as seaside resorts that are popular with both locals and tourists, the most popular being Marsalforn and Xlendi. Gozo is considered one of the top diving destinations in the Mediterranean and a centre for water sports.
The ferry (15 minutes) costs €15.70 to take a car and one passenger.
VICTORIA
CITTADELLA
A Tentative WHS (19/05/1998), this castle sits on the top of the hill above the Old Town of Victoria. The area has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, and the site now occupied by the Cittadella is believed to have been the acropolis of the Punic-Roman city of Gaulos or Glauconis Civitas. During the medieval period, the acropolis was converted into a castle that served as a refuge for Gozo’s population. A suburb began to develop outside its walls by the 15th century, and this area now forms the historic core of Victoria. The castle’s defences were obsolete by the 16th century, and in 1551 an Ottoman force invaded Gozo and sacked the Cittadella.
A major reconstruction of the southern walls of the Cittadella was undertaken between 1599 and 1622, transforming it into a gunpowder fortress. The northern walls were left intact, and today they still retain a largely medieval form. The new fortifications were criticized in later decades, and plans to demolish the entire citadel were made multiple times in the 17th and 18th centuries but were never carried out.
The Cittadella briefly saw action during the French invasion and subsequent uprising in 1798; in both cases, the fortress surrendered without much of a fight. It remained a military installation until it was decommissioned by the British on 1 April 1868. The citadel has been included on Malta’s tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1998.
Walk the battlements for panoramic views of Victoria and the surrounding countryside. The Cittadella contains churches and other historic buildings.
WWII Air Raid Shelter. 24 were built throughout Malta, but this was the largest with 150m of tunnels and 32 rooms cut into the rock under the Citadella. Malta was never really attacked in the war – German and Italian planes occasionally dropped bombs to lighten their load and the Germans sometimes flew low – but many stayed long periods in the shelter. Scabies, lice and foul air were significant issues.
Citadella Cathedral (Cathedral of the Assumption) was built between 1630 and 1704 on the site of an earlier church. Like most Maltese churches, this is a feast of marble, frescoes and gilt embellishments. The Cathedral Museum has three floors with paintings, silver and religious artifacts. €5, €3 with card
Prison.
Natural Science Museum. This small museum has exhibits on limestone, sea shells and geology.
Folklore Museum. In the Gran Castello Historic House, shows how it was used as a residence plus how many practical things were done. Animals lived in the basement. 5 wells in the house collected rainwater.
Gozo Museum of Archaeology.
Shipwreck Museum. This shows the artifacts brought up from an ancient Phonecian ship mostly amphorae and pottery.
ST. GEORGE’S BASILICA. 250m downhill from the Citadella in the pedestrianized Old Town, this has the usual lovely marble floors, columns and altars, gild over black canopy over the altar and many mosaics including a frieze below the roof line. Pope John Paul visited in 1990.
Ta’ Pinu Basilica. (Basilica of the National Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta’ Pinu) This Roman Catholic minor basilica and national shrine are located some 700m from the village of Għarb about 12 km west of Victoria in open countryside. the sister island of Malta. The church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin of Ta Pinu. The basilica is located in open countryside which allows visitors to enjoy beautiful views of the area and is of great national importance to Gozitans everywhere. Free
Ta’Kola windmill. In Xaghra, it was built in 1725 and rebuilt in 1780. It operated up to the 1980s. The museum has a workshop, storerooms with scales and grain measures, and a residence. When the wind was favourable, the miller manually turned the antennae, then blew a triton shell to call the locals to bring their wheat for milling. Also in Xaghra is G
Ramla-I Hamra beach. Facing north, it has about 500m of fine brown sand, an active volleyball court and many people getting sun.
Xewkija Church (Rotunda St John Baptist Church). When the original church was too small for its congregation, this beauty was built in 1951. 8 big pillars support the 45,000-ton dome. The small sculpture museum has some wonderful carvings. For €3, take the elevator to the rotunda for great views in all directions. €Free
bI had wanted to visit Comino Island but that is only possible by tour boats on an all-day tour, more time than I was willing to take.
I then took the ferry back to the main island of Malta.
Day 4
This was my day to see Valletta and the area. I started in Birgu across the harbour from the main city. The harbour was lined with gigantic pleasure yachts.
BIRGU
Malta Maritime Museum. Like most maritime museums this has a lot of ship models and pictures. The discussion of the order’s carochs, the Santa Maria and the Sant ‘Ana, the ultimate of fighting ships at the time, the Maltese corsairs and Saint Barbara the patron saint of gunners was interesting.
Fort Saint Angelo. This is the large fort on the Birgu peninsula. The ramparts give great views of Valletta and the harbour to the east. The film was a very concise explanation of the history of Malta.
Inquisitor’s Palace. This gave a rosy picture of the Inquisition, missing all the genocide and torture. It had many good models of Christian doctrine, carnival and the baby Jesus.
VALLETTA
A World Heritage Site, this is a fortified city and the capital of Malta. The harbour is a complicated set of bays and peninsulas with no bridges crossing any of the bodies of water. The main town is pedestrianized so you must find parking outside the walls. The walls are bordered by water and a large moat to the south-landward side.
I started in Birgu across the harbour from the main city and then parked next to the Saria Church and Agnotti Gardens in a stall for horse carriages.
Agnotti Gardens. In Floriana, just south of the city walls, this is a huge garden with orchards and large trees. Most of the flower beds were being planted. A large terrace gives great views down into the garden which was closed.
Sarria Church (Church of the Immaculate Conception) is a Roman Catholic Rotunda church in Floriana.
The original chapel was built in 1585 with funds provided by the Knight Fra Martin Sarria Navarra. Following the devastation that the plague of 1675 brought on the country, Grand Master Nicolas Cotoner built in its place another church dedicated to the Immaculate Conception as a sign of thanksgiving. The Sarria Church served as a temporary parish church for Floriana from 1942 to 1944, after the St. Publius Parish Church was damaged by aerial bombardment.
The most precious possession of this church is the seven large canvases that surround the interior, painted by Mattia Preti. The altarpiece, by Mattia Preti, depicts the Immaculate Conception with angels sheltering their swords after defeating the plague of 1675.
This tiny round church has the usual marble floor and altars. Mass was being held when I was there.
I then walked along a pretty boulevard to the main bus depot passing the Independence Monument (1964) and several statues and busts in the park. In the big circular plaza just before the main gate, is the wonderful Triton Fountain with 3 tritons holding up a large shallow bowl.
Parliament House. Just inside the city gates, this modern building has an interesting facade, a glassed bottom floor and 2 buildings. Next door is a Roman theatre.
Embassy of the Sovereign Order of St John. This is one of the two towers, part of the city walls, built in the 16th century to defend both sides of the main entrance to the city. It was used by the British military since 1967 and is now the embassy of the order. The doors were locked and it couldn’t be visited.
Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Built in 1593 and rebuilt in 1681 by the Order of St John, the apse was extended in 1920. the first church in Malta designed in the Baroque style. It has important pictures by Preti (1613-99). A statue of St Francis is on the corner. When I first arrived in the morning, it was closed but I went by at 17:30, mass was being held and I saw the interior with all the marble embellishments.
National Museum of Archaeology. It has the usual Bronze Age and Phoenician exhibits, but the most interesting was the Megalithic sites with many engraved stones.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral. Just east of Republic St, this is a huge yellow limestone church with two towers. It closed at 16:30 but I entered at mass at 17:30 to see all the ornate gilt covering every inch of each chapel.
Grandmasters Palace (Palace Armoury). This was the seat of the Order’s government and civil-military. Visit 3 large rooms, the most spectacular is the Tapestry Room, with brilliant colours kept intact by the low lighting. The armoury has all the weapons imaginable.
Malta Postal Museum. A private museum, it shows all stamps issued since 1860 and several examples of the Penny Black, the first stamp produced on Queen Victoria’s 21st birthday. 9E
Teatru Manoel. Built in 1732, it is one of the oldest working theatres in Europe. It is open to be viewed only from 9:30 to noon. 5E
Sanctuary Basilica of Our Lady of Mt Carmel. This small oval church has the usual marble floor inlays, altars and columns plus an elaborate canopy over the altar and ornate stucco carving around the paintings. Many of the images are on silver bases.
St. Paul’s Anglican Church. Supposedly open until 15:00, it wasn’t.
Toy Museum. This tiny museum is the personal 30-year collection of the elderly curator. There are many battery-powered toys. Open from 10-3 pm. 3E
Casa Rocca Piccola. This 16th-century palace of a Maltese noble family (now the Marquis and Marchioness de Piro) has rooms full of the usual portraits and furniture and a bomb shelter 100′ underground. Private, it is seen only by guided tour 9E. I didn’t think the price was worth it so didn’t go in.
Fort Saint Elmo. This giant fort at the north end of the peninsula that forms Valletta, can’t be visited except in the “modern” eastern section where the War Museum is. The plaza out front has the bottom remains of 26 columns of Roman origin.
National War Museum. In seven rooms, see the entire history of Malta, which really revolves around war, as it holds such a strategic position in the Mediterranean.
Breakwater Bridge. This is not a true bridge as it doesn’t extend to the other side, but the west arm of the causeway (breakwater) at the entrance to Valletta Harbour. There is a lighthouse at the end.
Valletta Waterfront. Walk the east waterfront on a sidewalk. Well below the walls, there is not much to see.
Lascaris War Rooms. Enter via a long tunnel under the Saluting Battery, this museum is where Operation Husky, the invasion of Italy in July 1943, originated in Malta. 9E reduced, private. It is so expensive because it floods regularly and is seen only by guided tour.
Saluting Battery is an artillery battery on the east side of the city above the Lascaris War Rooms. It was constructed in the 16th century by the Order of Saint John, on or near the site of an Ottoman battery from the Great Siege of Malta. The battery forms the lower tier of St. Peter & Paul Bastion of the Valletta Land Front, located below the Upper Barrakka Gardens and overlooking Fort St. Angelo and the rest of the Grand Harbour.
The Saluting Battery was mainly used for firing ceremonial gun salutes and signals, but it also saw military use during the blockade of 1798–1800 and World War II. The battery remained an active military installation until its guns were removed by the British in 1954. It was restored and opened to the public in the early 21st century, and it is now equipped with eight working replicas of SBBL 32-pounders which fire gun signals daily at 1200 and 1600. Access is easiest via an elevator from the waterfront.
The Stalls. Nobody including Tourist Information knew where this was. It is more commonly known as the indoor central market by the locals. The name was confirmed by a guard as the “stalls” – in an oval enclosed court, there are 13 ‘stalls’ each holding a different ethnic restaurant surrounding two bars.
Fort Manoel, Gzira. On the west side of the Valletta across the water, Manoel is an island, that has a distinctly industrial flavour, with dry docks for sailboats ringing the island. Encounter a barrier that does not let you access the east side of the island where the fort (permanently closed) is.
SILEMA. Across the west harbour of Valletta, this community sits on the water facing north.
The Point Shopping Mall. This is a small oval, four-story mall with all the usual stores. Parking in the large parking garage and was free in the evening when I was there.
Fort Tigne. From level -1 of the shopping mall, head east between all the high-end apartments to this tiny, approximately 25, diameter round bastion on the point. It is fenced off and not accessible, but there would not be much to see.
Day 5
My last day in Malta was an easy one. I had to be at Hal Saflieni Hypogeum by 11:45.
HAL SAFLIENI HYPOGEUM
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of the Megalithic Temples of Malta, and the prime tourist site in Malta make sure to make a reservation online as early as possible. Only 10 people are allowed in every hour and 80/day and depending on the time of year reservations book out months ahead. The normal adult price is 40 euros, booked early it is 20 euros for seniors. At slow times of the year, there are last-minute tickets available at the site, but none of the reductions apply. I arrived on March 6 at 10 am and got one of the last tickets for noon the next day.
The tour is given totally by an audio guide. The small size of the groups is dictated by the small size of the viewing areas.
This is an underground burial necropolis first discovered by a stone mason laying foundations to build some houses on the summit of a hill in Paola, not far from the harbour. Most of the houses had been built by the time excavations could begin (they lasted until 1911) and much damage was done to the top level.
Around 3500 BC, some natural cavities were adopted to deposit the bones of the dead in mass burials (the flesh had been allowed to decay first). As the cavities filled up, two lower levels were created by chiselling out the soft limestone rock along natural fault lines using stone, flint and animal antlers. The carving was done to look like normal architecture with faux columns and curved corbels of decreasing diameter on the ceilings, and most is finely done. It is thought that about 7000 people were eventually buried over the next 1000 years. Then the civilization disappeared for unknown reasons. Because of the high humidity, the bones decayed and disintegrated when touched so all that was left was basically dust in large heaps – only a few bones survived. The environment of the complex is now carefully controlled – humidity, temperature, carbon dioxide and light – to prevent deterioration. Early on this was not done and the walls were soon covered with algae. The price reflects the cost of maintaining that environment.
Model of the entire complex
The complex has three levels:
Upper level (3600-3300 BC). This was an open area covered by four houses and is now a large hollow with some burial chambers on each side. A few original burials, 2 limestone heads and a figurine were discovered. Only 4 small standing boulders remain from the original.
Middle level (3300-3000 BC). A passageway leads to the Oracle Chamber that resonates when deep sounds are made in its inner end. The ceiling is decorated with red ochre designs.
The Holy of Holies chamber has a porthole entrance of 4 uprights supporting a lintel leading to a round chamber with niches leading off it.
The Main chamber’s ceiling has fainter red ochre paintings, most hexagonal with spirals inside and has several large niches. This is as deep as the tour goes.
Lower level (3000-2400 BC). Ten steps end at a sheer 2m drop – the floor here is 10.6m below road level and there are four niches.
Our Lady of Mt Carmel, Fguria. Another impossible church to find. Maps took me to the parish church in Fguria, a modern church with nice stained glass on the facade.
Fort Rinella. On the north side of the island well east of the harbour, this small fort was built by the British between 1878 and 1884 to house a 100-ton gun, the largest muzzle-loading cannon in the world. It fired a one-ton shell up to 8 miles that could pierce a 21″ steel plate. It had a steam hydraulic system necessary to load it every 6 minutes. Transporting the cannon from Newcastle to Malta was a feat in itself.
The fort was part of a pair of identical forts built on either side of the harbour to protect the Royal Navy’s Mediterranean fleet in Malta against distant naval bombardment. It is a low-lying structure covered by a thick bomb-proof layer garrisoned by 35 men.
The fort was restored with all underground chambers and tunnels visited. The history of Queen Victoria’s army from 1837-1901 is shown using audiovisuals and 3000 artifacts plus military drills, signalling, musketry, sword and bayonet, cannon firing and cavalry with military reenactments. Private 12E, 10E reduction
My flight was at 17:50 on March 7, so I returned to the airport quite early for a good coffee and time to work on this post. After take-off, the plane headed south and then flew along the south coast of both Malta and Gozo for an excellent aerial view of everything.
