Bucharest/South (Craiova, Ploieşti, Călăraşi, Slatina) May 28-June 6, 2019
I crossed into Romania over the huge dam across the Danube just north of the city of Drobeta-Turnu-Severin. There were no issues at either border, specifically my vehicle insurance was active in Romania.
I decided to see the north west and north of Romania first.
Drobeta-Turnu-Severin. A NM “European City”, its significant history dates to Roman times when it was called Drobeta. The Trajan Bridge was the largest in the Roman Empire as the Danube here is 1,200m wide. Built in only three years (103–105 AD) by the famous architect Apollodorus of Damascus, the bridge was considered the most daring work in the Roman world. The bridge was built on 20 pillars of stone blocks, was 1135 m long, 14.55 m wide and 18.60 m high. Each bridge head had its own portal monument, whose remains can still be seen on both sides of the Danube. Oaks from 200 hectares of forest were used for the wooden parts of the construction. The bridge was composed of twenty arches supported by stone pillars. Only two of them are still visible at low water. Drobeta became, from a strategic perspective, a town at the crossing of land and water roads which led to the north and south of the Danube.
During the reign of Emperor Hadrian (117–138 AD), the settlement was declared a city in 121 AD and had a population of 14,000. During the reign of Septimius Severus (193–211 AD), the city was raised to the rank of a colony (193 AD), which gave its residents equal rights with citizens of Rome. As a colony, Drobeta was a thriving city with temples, a basilica, a theater, a forum, a port and guilds of craftsmen. In the middle of the 3rd century, Drobeta covered an area of 60 hectares and had a population of almost 40,000 inhabitants. After the retreat of the Roman administration from Dacia in the 4th century, the city was preserved under Roman occupation as a bridge head on the north bank of the Danube until the 6th century. Destroyed by Huns in the 5th century, it was rebuilt by Justinian I (527-565).
The fortress of Severin was built by the Kingdom of Hungary (1077–1095) as strategical point against the Second Bulgarian Empire.Romanians then fought the Ottoman Empire, which threatened the area of the Danube. In 1247, the Hungarian Kingdom brought the Knights of St. John to the country, giving them Severin as a residence, where they built the medieval castle of Severin. The knights withdrew in 1259, while the fortress remained in the range of the cannons of Turks, Bulgarians and Tatars who wanted to cross the Danube. Severin fortress was the most important strategic redoubt on the Danube. Its conquest meant to gain an important bridgehead in the region.
In 1524, after a devastating attack by the Turks led by Suleiman the Magnificent, only one tower of the fortress Severin was left standing, and finally seized by the Ottoman Empire in 1524. Severin was under Ottoman rule until 1829 except Wallachian occupation between 1594 and 1599 and Austrian one between 1718 and 1738. For nearly 300 years the fortress was rebuilt after each battle to defend Wallachia against the Hungarians and Turks.
After gaining freedom from Ottoman control in 1829, it was decided to rebuild the present city including the harbor and in the early 1900s the national road, the shipyard ands several churches were built. Severin experienced a steady economic, urban and social growth until 1972, when it received the name of Drobeta-Turnu Severin.
TARGU JIU
L’ensemble monumental de Tirgu Jiu. A tentative WHS (01/03/1991), this ensemble of monuments by Constantin Brancusu (1876-1957) was erected between 1937-38. They were commissioned by the National League of Gorj Women and donated to the town in memory of Gorj heroes killed in WW I.
Starting on the banks of the Jieu River in the municipal park (big mature trees, a tower, an old ornamental fountain and a gazebo) are the concrete works “Table of Silence” (a 2m diameter concrete table with 12 stools around it), “Alley of Stools” (5 sets of 6 concrete stools lining the walkway) that connects the table with the “Gate of the Kiss” (a large rectangular arch with two abstract lips (I think). If walking, continue east along the Avenue of Heroes with St Apostles Church for about 1.2kms to the ensemble’s climax, the Infinity Column. This 29.35m high column is composed of 15 brass clad, cast iron modules with a half module on each end. The modules are threaded down the middle with a stainless steel spine. In the 1950s, there were attempts made to destroy the column unsuccessfully. It was remetalized in 1965-66 and 1975-76 and dismantled in 1996 and restored in 2000.
Monastery of Horezu. Built from 1690-1697 by the ruler Constantin Brâncoveanu (1688-1714) this is the largest and most sumptuous monastic complex built in SE Europe at the end of the 17th century. Its architecture, sculpture and painting are a masterpiece. It was WHS listed in 1993
Enter the gate though the large brick/stone wall to enter the “park” with the nun’s quarters and then enter the monumental complex through another large portal. The church is in the center of lovely 2-storied buildings with columns and potted red geraniums. The portico is completely painted with intricate frescoes depicting hell and the judgment. Enter the narthex though the finely carved wood doors – everything is covered with great detailed frescoes including the columns and dome. The chairs lining the walls are nice. The iconoclast is finely carved gilt wood full of icons. All the frescoes are slightly dark but almost completely intact. Free
There are 35 nuns and one priest here. A nun talked to me asking where I was from and made no issue with my shorts. She went into the church and got a red cushion for me to sit on while I wrote this. It is always somewhat surreal to be completely alone in these spectacular places.
I decided to continue 41kms east to Ramnicu Valcea before heading north.
Ramnicu Valcea. A NM “European City, it is situated in the foothills of the Southern Carpathians, about 12 kilometres from the Cozia Mountains and about 40 kilometres (25 mi) from the Făgăraş and Lotrului Mountains. The Olt River crosses the town as well as the E81 road and a main national railway routes.
Râmnicu Vâlcea has gained notoriety as a global centre of cybercrime, including but not limited to EBay and Craigslist scammers who steal thousands of dollars per transaction from foreign buyers, generating millions of dollars in revenue. Wealthy profiteers provide revenue for a strong luxury car industry. Due to the cybercrime, the city has been nicknamed Hackerville.
I picked up a hitchhiker here, a 37-year old former Romanian who now lives outside of Venice. He hitchhikes about 10,000kms a year and has a website specifically about hitchhiking: www.claudioadrianodobre.com. He works as an Italian/English translator. I hope he will write a post about hitchhiking that I would love to put on this website as it is one thing I don’t have on the Travel page. I gave him a ride to Sibiu.
I love to pick up hitchhikers but rarely get the chance (the last time was about a year ago in Ireland when I picked up a young Czech man living in Manchester. He was with me for 2 days and we climbed two mountains). First, hitchhikers are rare (I probably saw more in Serbia than the rest of Europe), and I really only prefer backpackers and fellow travelers. I tend to avoid older guys who look like they don’t speak English. I stopped twice in Serbian, but these guys were a little “thick” and refused a ride even though we were going in the same direction.
The road north followed the Olt River. It was quite scenic in its lower parts with rugged limestone walls, but eventually opens up to a wide valley.
This trip continues in the Romania – Center post. (May 28, 2019)
After seeing Romania West, Northwest Northeast and Center regions, I returned to the south of Romania on June 3 from Bran. The drive was through the nicest part of Romania. The road was high above an impossibly green landscape of conifers and green fields with storybook villages and homes in the steep valleys below. It took 1½ hours to drive 50kms on the very windy road.
CAMPULUNG
Muzeul de Etnografie, in the oldest house in Campulung from 1735 showing typical Muscel architecture, this had the usual ethnographic artifacts – archaeology, traditional dress, agricultural equipment and sample rooms from traditional houses. 10 Lie
Romanian Automobile Museum. Just outside of town in a nice building, this has primarily cars from the Soviet era, most that seemed to look a lot alike and of which I knew few. There’s a whole range of different vehicles in the shed outside. 20 Lie
CURTEA de ARGES
Eglises byzantines et post-byzantines de Curtea de Arges, A Tentative WHS: (01/03/1991), the Arges Monastery is in a large park like setting. The main church, Dormitian of the Holy Mother of God Episcopal Church is a wonderful modern =-looking building – lead domes, Islamic-looking floral carvings around the windows and round tower-like domes (the four corner towers decorations twist around the tower) and a wide “rope twist” around the circumference. Completely renovated in 1875-83, the inside dates to 1512-17 with 12 ornately decorated columns, geometrics covering all the walls, and a rood screen from 1678. The original frescoes were replaced in the renovation and some are in the National Museum of Art in Bucharest. In the courtyard outside is the Holy Water Place.
Dormitian commemorates the “falling asleep” or death of Mary the Theotokos (“Mother of God”, literally translated as God-bearer), and her bodily resurrection before being taken up into heaven. It is celebrated on 15 August as the Feast of the Dormition of the Mother of God. The death or Dormition of Mary is not recorded in the Christian canonical scriptures.
Hippolytus of Thebes, a 7th- or 8th-century author, claims in his partially preserved chronology to the New Testament that Mary lived for 11 years after the death of Jesus, dying in AD 41. The term Dormition expresses the belief that the Virgin died without suffering, in a state of spiritual peace. This belief does not rest on any scriptural basis, but is affirmed by Orthodox Christian Holy Tradition. 
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Oratory. Just down the road is this also modern looking brick building with a huge tower. Originally late 18th century, it too was completely renovated in 1885. It contains the relics of St Filoteea. Born in 1200, she was a very pious child generous to all. Her lovely mother died when she was young but her stepmother was anything but nice. Filoteea constantly gave her father’s lunch to poor people and her irate father killed her with an axe when she was 13.
Curtea de Argeș Cathedral (Catedraka Arhiepiscopala Regala). Just outside the Arges Monastery gates, this is a modern brick building. Just inside the entrance are monstrous marble grave slabs (Carill II, Mircea Principele, Ava, Mihail). The square interior is plain white plaster scored as if ready for finishing plaster and then painting. It has domed side chapels and an odd brick iconostasis with 11 icons.
St Nicolas Church. In the south of town, this modern church has gorgeous Byzantine style mosaics adorning the portico, façade and interior.
Pitesti. A NM European City, is located on the Argeș River, an important commercial and industrial center, as well as the home of two universities. The city houses the Arpechim oil refinery, and is a marketing center for the automotive industry, in particular Automobile Dacia.
From the 14th century, it developed as a trading town serving as an informal residence for various Wallachian Princes until the 18th century. From the 19th century and until the interwar period, it was an important political center for the National Liberal Party. During the early stages of the communist regime, it was one of the main sites of political repression, with the Pitești prison becoming home to an experiment in brainwashing techniques.
BUCHAREST (pop 1,884,000)
Bucharest is the capital and largest city of Romania, as well as its cultural, industrial, and financial centre. It is located in the southeast of the country, at 44°25′57″N 26°06′14″E on the banks of the Dâmbovița River, less than 60 km (37.3 mi) north of the Danube River and the Bulgarian border.
Bucharest was first mentioned in documents in 1459. It became the capital of Romania in 1862 and is the centre of Romanian media, culture, and art. Its architecture is a mix of historical (neo-classical and Art Nouveau), interbellum (Bauhaus and art deco), communist era and modern. In the period between the two World Wars, the city’s elegant architecture and the sophistication of its elite earned Bucharest the nickname of “Little Paris” (Micul Paris). Although buildings and districts in the historic city centre were heavily damaged or destroyed by war, earthquakes, and above all Nicolae Ceaușescu’s program of systematization, many survived and have been renovated. In recent years, the city has been experiencing an economic and cultural boom. In 2016, the historical city centre was listed as “endangered” by the World Monuments Watch.
According to the 2011 census, 1,883,425 inhabitants live within the city limits, a decrease from the 2002 census. Adding the satellite towns around the urban area, the proposed metropolitan area of Bucharest would have a population of 2.27 million people. According to Eurostat, Bucharest has a functional urban area of 2,412,530 residents (as of 2015). Bucharest is the sixth-largest city in the European Union by population within city limits, after London, Berlin, Madrid, Rome, and Paris.
Economically, Bucharest is the most prosperous city in Romania. The city has a number of large convention facilities, educational institutes, cultural venues, traditional “shopping arcades” and recreational areas.
For a detailed description, see Bucharest.
All the national museums are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, but a real deal with most at 10 Lei, 5 reduction each. Parking is a challenge here but I did what most do, park on a sidewalk somewhere. It is not an easy place to walk to all the “sights” and I ended up driving around for 1½ days to see everything, returning to the places closed on Tuesdays and ones I missed bookmarking (marked with an*).
Bucharest Centre Architectural Ensemble. A NM “Sight”, this city has wonderful buildings, in the 150 years since Bucharest has stopped burning to the ground, the architecture of the place usually followed the styles en vogue in the European capitals, with a local touch. French Beux Arts style brought in by the alumni of the great Parisian academy, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Neo-Romanian together with communist style, form a mix that’s both frustrating and intriguing.
The city centre is a mixture of medieval, neoclassical, Art Deco and Art Nouveau buildings, as well as ‘neo-Romanian’ buildings dating from the beginning of the 20th century and a collection of modern buildings from the 1920s and 193Os. The mostly utilitarian Communist-era architecture dominates most southern boroughs. Recently built contemporary structures such as skyscrapers and office buildings complete the landscape.
Historical architecture. Of the city’s medieval architecture, most of what survived into modern times was destroyed by Communist systematization, fire, and military incursions. Some medieval and renaissance edifices remain, the most notable are in the Lipscani area. This precinct contains notable buildings such as Manuc’s Inn (Hanul lui Manuc) and the ruins of the Old Court (Curtea Veche); during the late Middle Ages, this area was the heart of commerce in Bucharest. From the 1970s onwards, the area went through urban decline, and many historical buildings fell into disrepair. In 2005, the Lipscani area was pedestrianised and is undergoing restoration.
To execute a massive redevelopment project during the rule of Nicolae Ceausescu, the government conducted extensive demolition of churches and many other historic structures in Romania. According to Alexandru Budistenu, former chief architect of Bucharest, “The sight of a church bothered Ceausescu. It didn’t matter if they demolished or moved it, as long as it was no longer in sight.” Nevertheless, a project organized by Romanian engineer Eugeniu Iordachescu was able to move many historic structures to less-prominent sites and save them.
The city centre has retained architecture from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, particularly the interwar period, which is often seen as the “golden age” of Bucharest architecture. During this time, the city grew in size and wealth, therefore seeking to emulate other large European capitals such as Paris. Much of the architecture of the time belongs to a Modern (rationalist) Architecture current, led by Horia Creangă and Marcel Iancu.
In Romania, the tendencies of innovation in the architectural language met the need of valorisation and affirmation of the national cultural identity. The Art Nouveau movement finds expression through new architectural style initiated by Ion Mincu and taken over by other prestigious architects who capitalize important references of Romanian laic and medieval ecclesiastical architecture (for example the Mogoșoaia Palace, the Stavropoleos Church or the disappeared church of Văcărești Monastery) and Romanian folk motifs.[85]
Two notable buildings from this time are the Crețulescu Palace, housing cultural institutions including UNESCO’s European Centre for Higher Education, and the Cotroceni Palace, the residence of the Romanian President. Many large-scale constructions such as Gara de Nord, the busiest railway station in the city, National Bank of Romania’s headquarters, and the Telephone Palace date from these times. In the 2000s, historic buildings in the city centre underwent restoration. In some residential areas of the city, particularly in high-income central and northern districts, turn-of-the-20th-century villas were mostly restored beginning in the late 1990s.
Eclectic style – CEC Palace, National Military Circle, National Museum of Romanian History.
French Baroque style – Cantacuzino Palace
Communist era architecture. A major part of Bucharest’s architecture is made up of buildings constructed during the Communist era replacing the historical architecture with high-density apartment blocks – significant portions of the historic center of Bucharest were demolished to construct one of the largest buildings in the world, the Palace of the Parliament (then officially called the House of the Republic). In Nicolae Ceaușescu’s project of systematization, new buildings were built in previously historical areas, which were razed and then built upon.
One of the singular examples of this type of architecture is Centrul Civic, a development that replaced a major part of Bucharest’s historic city centre with giant utilitarian buildings, mainly with marble or travertine façades, inspired by North Korean architecture. The mass demolitions that occurred in the 1980s, under which an overall area of eight square kilometres of the historic center of Bucharest were leveled, including monasteries, churches, synagogues, a hospital, and a noted Art Deco sports stadium, changed drastically the appearance of the city. Communist-era architecture can also be found in Bucharest’s residential districts, mainly in blocuri, which are high-density apartment blocks that house the majority of the city’s population. Initially, these apartment blocks started to be constructed in the 1960s, on relatively empty areas and fields (good examples include Pajura, Drumul Taberei, Berceni and Titan), however with the 1970s, they mostly targeted peripheral neighborhoods such as Colentina, Pantelimon, Militari and Rahova. Construction of these apartment blocks were also often randomized, for instance some small streets were demolished and later widened with the blocks being built next to them, but other neighboring streets were left intact (like in the example of Calea Moșilor from 1978-1982), or built in various patterns such as the Piața Iancului-Lizeanu apartment buildings from 1962-1963.
There is also communist architecture that was built in the early years of the system, in the late 1940s and 1950s. Buildings constructed in this era followed the Soviet Stalinist trend of Socialist Realism, and include the House of the Free Press (which was named Casa Scînteii during communism).
Contemporary architecture. Since the fall of Communism in 1989, several Communist-era buildings have been refurbished, modernized, and used for other purposes. Perhaps the best example of this is the conversion of obsolete retail complexes into shopping malls and commercial centres. These giant, circular halls, which were unofficially called hunger circuses due to the food shortages experienced in the 1980s, were constructed during the Ceaușescu era to act as produce markets and refectories, although most were left unfinished at the time of the revolution.
Modern shopping malls such as the Unirea Shopping Center, Bucharest Mall, Plaza Romania, and City Mall emerged on pre-existent structures of former hunger circuses. Another example is the conversion of a large utilitarian construction in Centrul Civic into a Marriott Hotel. This process was accelerated after 2000, when the city underwent a property boom, and many Communist-era buildings in the city centre became prime real estate due to their location. Many Communist-era apartment blocks have also been refurbished to improve urban appearance.
The newest contribution to Bucharest’s architecture took place after the fall of Communism, particularly after 2000, when the city went through a period of urban renewal – and architectural revitalization – on the back of Romania’s economic growth. Buildings from this time are mostly made of glass and steel, and often have more than 10 storeys. Examples include shopping malls (particularly the Bucharest Mall, a conversion and extension of an abandoned building), office buildings, bank headquarters, etc.
During the last ten years, several highrise office buildings were built, particularly in the northern and eastern parts of the city. Additionally, a trend to add modern wings and façades to historic buildings has occurred, the most prominent example of which is the Bucharest Architects’ Association Building, which is a modern glass-and-steel construction built inside a historic stone façade. In 2013, the Bucharest skyline enriched with a 137-m-high office building (SkyTower of Floreasca City Center), currently the tallest building in Romania. Examples of modern skyscrapers built in the 21st century include Bucharest Tower Center, Euro Tower, Nusco Tower, Cathedral Plaza, City Gate Towers, Rin Grand Hotel, Premium Plaza, Bucharest Corporate Center, Millennium Business Center, PGV Tower, Charles de Gaulle Plaza, Business Development Center Bucharest, BRD Tower, and Bucharest Financial Plaza. Despite this development on vertical, Romanian architects avoid designing very tall buildings due to vulnerability to earthquakes.
Aside from buildings used for business and institutions, residential developments have also been built, many of which consist of high-rise office buildings and suburban residential communities. An example of a new highrise residential complex is Asmita Gardens. These developments are increasingly prominent in northern Bucharest, which is less densely populated and is home to middle- and upper-class Bucharesters due to the process of gentrification.
Day 1 and 2
Valea Cascadelor. In the NM “Market” series, this was an odd one and a little hard to understand why it is included as it consists of several large stores devoted to house construction and home improvement, weird. Free
AFI Cotroceni. A modern, attractive 2-level shopping mall with glass roofs, one thing that makes this different is the large glass dome food court with an adventure wall (recreated mountain cliff with walkways and tunnels). An ice skating rink is in the middle.
Cotroceni Palace – Cotroceni National Museum*. In a 20-hectare park, this palace was the home of Romanian royalty for 40 years from 1895 till 1938. It has a long history of additions and renovations. Originally a monastery built in 1679, it housed 50 monks until 1850. The palace was used as guest housing by the Communists from 1976-88 when the church was completely razed to the ground in 1980, then used by the Pioneers (12-16 year olds) for 26 years.
The 2-hour tour visits the church, wine cellars, and all the beautifully restored rooms in the 4-story palace – many wood paneled walls, patterned wallpaper, lovely furniture and pictures of the royal families.
This can only be seen on a guided tour in a group. I stopped by and got my appointment for 10:30 on Wednesday for the English tour. 50 Lei, 27 reduced.
The Botanical Garden* (Gradina Botanica). Across the street from the Cotroceni Palace, this is a wonderful peaceful spot in the rush of Bucharest. Under the auspices of the University of Bucharest, it’s very large and one could spend hours wandering the grounds. Only the magnificent roses were in significant bloom. There is a huge variety of gardens: Italian, French, Mediterranean and separate ones for local areas of Romania. 10Lei, 5 reduced
National Military Museum*. Over 3 big floors and starting with Paleolithic arrow heads this museum has every implement of death and destruction on Earth until the end of WW II. As most was in Romanian (only some labels were), I found the models of every fort and castle in the country wonderful: Early ones were white plaster but later ones were true to life. Every war has large maps detailing the battles and fronts. Outside are a lot of cannon and artillery, tanks, and other military vehicles. 20 Lei, 10 reduced
I then parked in a quiet neighborhood and had a walk-about.
Romanian Orthodox Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarchal Cathedral of Saints
Constantine and Helena). Built in 1856, it has been the enthronement location of metropolitans and patriarchs of the church (4 are buried here). The only original frescoes from 1665 are of Constantine and Helen while the rest (all with elaborate gilt) are from 1932-35. It has the relics of St Demitrius the New, the patron saint of Bucharest in an elaborate silver altar. You have to have a good singing voice to be a priest, one more reason why I didn’t pick this avocation. Free
Palace of Justice. On the south side of the river/canal this palatial building houses the Romanian Court of Appeal with courtrooms and offices for lawyers and judges. The magnificent central court has a high barrel-vaulted ceiling and red marble columns. Visit before 4pm. Free
National Museum of Romanian History. Start with a good history of the world and Romania since the 15th century and end at WW I. The Lapidarium is centered around a replica of Trajan’s Column in Rome. The huge 10m square base has the first two segments and the magnificent bas relief frieze relating Trajan’s exploits that spirals up the column is in segments around it. A video shows details of the construction including the interior spiral stairs. Unfortunately the story board was only in Romanian, but I looked it up: Trajan’s Column. Built in 113 AD to commemorate the Dacian-Roman wars between 101-02 and 105-106 AD, this is easily the most impressive monument in the world. The 39.83m tall cylinder is 3.7m in diameter. Built on top of a large pedestal, it is made of 17 Parso marble overlaid cylinders, each carved in the interior with a staircase and mechanism to join each cylinder together. 155 bas-relief scenes of the war were chiseled onto the column rising in a spiral. There are 2500 human figures in the scenes.
In the basement is a magnificent display of Romanian gold, the royal jewels and other lovely jewelry, most discovered as hoards. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
CEC Palace (Palace of the Deposits and Consignments). Built between 1896-1900 in an Academic style, it is distinguished by its glass and metal cupola. It is a huge building with columns and statues. Located on the former site of St John the Great monastery. It can’t be visited as it is the headquarters of the CEC bank (not even to enter the lobby).
Stavropoleos Monastery* (St Archangels Michael and Gabriel Church). Built in 1726, this tiny church has its original frescoes and sculpted details on the exterior. The porch has finely sculpted columns and door frame. Everything is frescoed but they are dark and slightly faded. Free
Museum of the National Bank of Romania. The palace of the National Bank of Romania houses the national numismatic collection. Exhibits include banknotes, coins, documents, photographs, maps, silver and gold bullion bars, bullion coins, and dies and moulds. The building was constructed between 1884 and 1890. The thesaurus room contains notable marble decorations.
It can be seen only by guided tours in groups arranged at least 2 days before (tours start at 10, 12, 2 and 4pm). Email nuzeul@bnro.ro and specify names, ID numbers (passport) and telephone numbers. It is not visitable by individuals. The visits start at the back of the building at 8 Doamnei St. Free
Bucharest Telephone Palace. This 1933 Art Deco building has a 52.5m metal frame and was Bucharest’s tallest building until the 1070s. It is a plain cream stone building with small triangular columns between the windows and can’t be visited.
Next door is the Novotel Hotel, the architecture is unusual with a baroque portico with many columns fronting a modern all-glass building. The lobby has a wine bar/café.
Memorial of Rebirth. In a lovely small park, this marble triangular obelisk has a wrought iron “flattened” globe encircling the top. At the bottom of the back are several abstract bronze figures and a metal rose. Unfortunately the monument is a little decrepit with graffiti and fragmented base.
It is a stylized marble pillar unveiled in 2005 to commemorate the victims of the Romanian Revolution of 1989, which overthrew Communism. The abstract monument sparked controversy when it was unveiled, being dubbed with names such as “the olive on the toothpick”, (măslina-n scobitoare), as many argued that it does not fit in its surroundings and believed that its choice was based on political reasons.
Behind it in the park are two statues: a great statue titled Maniu (a sitting man has a disjointed trunk) and a metal tree trunk.
National Museum of Art of Romania*. The museum was damaged during the 1989 Romanian Revolution that led to the downfall of Nicolae Ceaușescu and reopened in 2000, housing the modern Romanian collection with many sculptures and the international collection with many old masters and some impressionists; the comprehensive Medieval art collection with works salvaged from monasteries destroyed during the Ceausescu era. There are also two halls that house temporary exhibits. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays and last entry at 5pm. 20 Lei, 10 reduced
I wandered into the palace next door being set up for a European Union meeting (Romania has the presidency of the EU this year). It is a magnificent palace of marble. Green Hours 22 Jazz Café*. This has a popular restaurant in the courtyard. There is live jazz mostly on weekends and it sponsors the Green Hours Jazz Fest on the last weekend of May since 2008. Musicians apparently come from all over the world. Food prices are higher than average.
I started back to my car parked on the other side of the Patriarchal Cathedral
Sutu Palace (Municipal Museum). Built between 1833-35, it is one of the oldest aristocratic residences in Bucharest, remaining unchanged for more than 150 years. The interior was designed by a sculpture and is known for the monumental double-winder set of stairs leading to the first floor and opened the space with a gilded frame mirror from Murano. In the 2nd half of the 19th century, it was the social centre of the city holding the first ball each year in February. The exterior marquee supported by forged iron pillars forms the elegant entryway. It was a private residence until the 20th century and became the city of Bucharest Museum in 1956.
The museum has some interesting artifacts from the Stone Age to the present. 10 Lei. I only went in to see the palace. There is nothing much after the exquisite lobby.
ARCUB (Centrul Cultural Bucharest). The original houses were demolished to build the Gabroveni Inn in 1729. After the1802 earthquake, it was turned into the “Little Inn” but this was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847. In the rebuild, it became shops for dry goods and an alcohol factory and a second floor was added. It was eventually abandoned and was a ruin until purchased by the city and completely renovated from 2009-14. 300,000 bricks were reused to produce all the wonderful arched rooms. Now it has a 200-seat auditorium, workshops, studios, exhibition halls and exhibition spaces. The lobby has several photos of the reconstruction process.
Romanian Kitsch Museum. In the NM “bizzarium” series, this was hard to find and then on the 2nd floor. It has a great collection of “odd” stuff. Kitsch is defined as art, objects, or design considered to be in poor taste because of excessive garishness or sentimentality, but sometimes appreciated in an ironic or knowing way. Examples are lava lamps, knick-knacks, little glass and gilt ornaments. Synonyms of the adjective would be tasteless, vulgar, tawdry, showy, gaudy, cheap. Also the most expensive museum in Bucharest at 30 Lei, no reduction.
Curtea Veche*. Originally a 14th century fortress improved upon by Vlad the Impaler, it was reconstructed in 1690-1714 by Constantine Brancoucanu, the Wallachian ruler adding watch towers and baths. Abandoned in 1775, it was “rediscovered in the 1960s and all the old streets and houses excavated. In 1972, part became the Old Court Museum. Next to it is the Old Court Church from 1559, Bucharest’s oldest building. After the 1847 fire it was not restored until 1914. The outside walls are alternating brick/plaster and the carved portal dates from 1775. Inside are the usual dark frescoes and a gilt iconostasis. Free
Jewish Museum (Templul Unirea Sfanta). This wonderful alternating orange/cream stone ex-synagogue is a masterpiece of floral design and elegant carving inside. The rose window highlights the space. It was built in 1850 and renovated in 1908 and 2019. Located in the former Templul Unirea Sfântă (United Holy Temple synagogue that survived both WW II and Nicolae Ceauşescu unscathed.
The museum gives broad coverage of the history of the Jews in Romania with a large book collection, paintings, memorabilia from Jewish theatres, Zionism, anti-Semitic posters, the Holocaust and focuses on what that means for those who have stayed. Security at the museum is relatively high, mostly because of a December 2000 incident where two anti-Semitic men vandalized the museum and demanded to see the “human soap”. 10 Lei
History of Jews in Romania: Jewish communities existed in Romanian territory in the 2nd century AD. During the late 1500s, the Jews of Moldavia, mainly traders from Poland who were competing with locals, were taxed and ultimately expelled. The authorities decided in 1650 and 1741 required Jews to wear clothing evidencing their status and ethnicity. The first blood accusation in Moldavia was made in 1710, when the Jews of Târgu Neamț were charged with having killed a Christian child for ritual purposes. An anti-Jewish riot occurred in Bucharest in the 1760s. During the Russo-Turkish War, 1768-1774 the Jews in the Danubian Principalities had to endure great hardships. Massacres and pillages were perpetrated in almost every town and village in the country. During the Greek War of Independence in 1821, Jews were victims of pogroms and persecutions. In the 1860s, there was another riot motivated by blood libel accusations.
Antisemitism was officially enforced in the late 1800s applying old discrimination laws, insisting that Jews were not allowed to settle in the countryside (and relocating those that had done so), while declaring many Jewish urban inhabitants to be vagrants and expelling them from the country. The emigration of Romanian Jews on a larger scale commenced soon after 1878. By 1900 there were 250,000 Romanian Jews: 3.3% of the population, 14.6% of the city dwellers, 32% of the Moldavian urban population and 42% of Iași.
Between 1940-1942, 80 anti-Jewish regulations were passed. Starting at the end of October, 1940, the Iron Guard began a massive antisemitic campaign, torturing and beating Jews and looting their shops (the Dorohoi Pogrom), culminating in the failed coup and a pogrom in Bucharest, in which 125 Jews were killed. Antonescu eventually stopped the violence, but continued the policy of oppression and massacre of Jews, and, to a lesser extent, of Roma. After Romania entered the war, atrocities against the Jews became common, starting with the Iași pogrom. Between 280,000 and 380,000 Jews were murdered or died during the Holocaust in Romania. An additional 135,000 Jews living under Hungarian control in Northern Transylvania also perished in the Holocaust, as did some 5,000 Romanian Jews in other countries.
In the current territory of Romania, between 290,000 and 360,000 Romanian Jews survived World War II. During the communist regime in Romania, there was a mass emigration to Israel, and in 1987, only 23,000 Jews lived in Romania. Today, the majority of Romanian Jews live in Israel, while modern-day Romania continues to host a modest Jewish population. In the 2011 census, 3,271 declared to be Jewish.
I returned to my car and had a drive-about.
Piaţa Matache. This large green closed-in market has a steel frame/girder construction and sells mostly vegetables and fruit with meat, cheese and a few other shops around the periphery. Lots of fast food outside. I bought some very cheap strawberries 4 lei/½kg. The white low buildings in front have seen better days and most are closed.
Gara de Nord. With an imposing black/beige stone exterior, this main train station for the north of Romania is an older steel framed hall. On one level, it easy to navigate with fast-food along the entire length of the tracks.
Filipescu-Cesianu House. In the original house owned by the aristocratic Filipescu-Cesianu family, this holds an urban anthropology museum – showing how cities shaped the lives of the people over a 300 year period. 5 Lei
Cantacuzino Palace. Built in French Academic style for Gheoghe Cantacuzino (the “Nabob”) in 1898-1906, it now holds the George Enescu Musuem. It was Enescu’s residence after his marriage to Maruia Canacuzino. Behind a great wrought iron fence, it is an imposing mansion covered with statues and wrought iron balconies. 10 Lei
George Enescu National Museum. Enescu (1883-1955) was born in Romania and was a child prodigy, composing his first piece at age 5 and was the youngest student ever admitted to the Vienna Conservatory at age 10 and graduated before his 13th birthday. He then studied from 1895 to 1899 at the Conservatoire de Paris. At the age of only 16, Enescu presented in Paris his first mature work, Poema Română. Many of Enescu’s works were influenced by Romanian folk music. He also wrote five symphonies, and much chamber music. In 1923 he made his American debut as a conductor and with many American orchestras. In 1939 he married Maria Rosetti (known as the Princess Cantacuzino through her first husband Mihail Cantacuzino). While staying in Bucharest, Enescu lived in the Cantacuzino Palace. He lived in Paris and in Romania, but after World War II and the Soviet occupation of Romania, he remained in Paris. On his death in 1955, George Enescu was interred in Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris. Recently, Bacău International Airport was named George Enescu International Airport.
Ghica Palace Victoria. It is now occupied by the Counsel of Danube Cities Region, is private and the palace can’t be visited.
Museum of the Romanian Peasant. This was declared the European Museum of the Year in 1996. Patronized by the Ministry of Culture, the museum preserves and exhibits numerous collections of objects and monuments of material and spiritual culture. The Museum of the Romanian Peasant holds one of the richest collections of peasant objects in Romania, its heritage being nearly 90,000 pieces, those being divided into several collections: ceramics, costumes, textiles, wooden objects, religious objects, customs, etc.
Unfortunately it was being renovated but temporary exhibits were shown in the nearby Tanered Barateanu Hall. The main theme here was the Karakachari people, Romanian Orthodox shepherds who spoke archaic Greek known for their seasonal migrations between winter (Aegean coast) and summer pastures (Bulgaria). With their own particular breeds of sheep, dogs and horses, they produced most of what they needed from their sheep. They now have a settled existence in Bulgaria, Greece, Macedonia and Turkey and meet annually at a national gathering near Sliven Bulgaria. The museum shop is a museum unto itself with tons of traditional clothing, rugs and paraphernalia. 10 Lei
Village Museum “Dimitrie Gusti”. This open-air museum didn’t close till 7pm so I was able to see it. With buildings from all over Romania, I saw several homes in the homestead section, many with outdoor ovens and kitchens. Unfortunately all but one was locked, but each had an excellent description of its providence, construction and interior. Most interesting to me were the 3 windmills and 2 grape/oil presses (these used large timbers lowered by an ingenious carved wooden screw mechanism). 15 LEI, 8 reduced
There was an IKEA at the mall and I had their signature meatballs and mashed potatoes, a quite fulfilling meal for 20 Lei.
Baneasa Shopping City Mall. About 5kms north of the city, I cruised the mall, used their free wi-fi and slept in the lot, then spent the early morning mooching wifi from the nearby KFC.
National Museum of Contemporary Art. In the back of the Palace of the Parliament, this is a long walk as the palace is so large, can’t be walked across and then it is still ½km after entering the gate. The building is lovely and the 4-stories of exhibition spaces large but the art was generally bad. I liked the geometric graphic designs and there were some wood cubist sculptures. Use the elevator rather than the back stairs. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. 8 Lei
Palace of the Parliament. This is the seat of the Parliament of Romania, the Senate and the Chamber of Deputies. 84m high, it has a floor area of 365,000 sq. m and is heaviest building in the world, weighing about 4,098,500,000 kilograms. A colossal building, designed by 700 architects, and constructed between1984–97, it was built as a monument for as a kitsch style in totalitarian and modernist neoclassical architecture. The Palace was ordered by Nicolae Ceaușescu (1918–1989), the dictator of Communist Romania during a period in which the personality cult of political worship and adoration was in full force for him and his family. Known for its ornate interior composed of 23 sections, it also has three museums (National Museum of Contemporary Art, the 2015 Museum of Communist Totalitarianism and the Museum of the Palace) and an international conference center. About 70% of the building almost four decades later still remains empty. As of 2008, the Palace of the Parliament was valued at €3 billion euros ($3.4 billion), making it also the most expensive administrative building in the world. The cost of heating and electric use and lighting alone exceeds $6 million per year, as much as the total cost for powering a medium-sized city. It can’t be accessed not even the almost empty gargantuan lot near the M of Contemporary Art. I ended up parking in my usual spot, the boulevard/sidewalk just outside the gate.
Day 3
On my third day in Bucharest, I saw the few remaining sights, all by driving.
Mogosoaia Palace. About 10kms north of the city, I started to regret coming here with all the heavy traffic, but this was a great place. Walk through a lovely park with big trees to the large brick manor house built in 1705 by Constantine Brancoveanu. It sits on the edge of a small lake, fronted by an English garden full of roses. Inside are great marble staircases and floors, many rugs (kilums), a great tapestry of Brancoveanu after he built the Vacorsesti Monastery, several old Bibles and wonderful rooms with Gothic arched ceilings and fireplaces. There is an abstract art gallery in the basement and the frescoes from the Vacoresti Monastery in the brick domed cellars. 6 Lei, 3 reduced
I then visited the Belarus Embassy to enquire about my Belarus visa.
Grigore Antipa National Museum of Natural History. This was a much better than average Natural History museum. Still with plastic fish and lots of stuffed animals, but in good, well lit dioramas. Names were in English and small video screens gave info about each critter, but the English stopped functioning after a while. Some humorous labels were: coyote or “prairie wolf” and moose was Eurasian elk. It has everything: human ethnography, evolution of man, genetics, insects, plants, minerals and a full 6-million year-old fossil elephant skeleton. 20 Lei, reduced 10
Art Museum Zambaccian. Krikor Zambaccian (1889-1962) was an art collector starting before WW I and continuing for his entire life. The museum was in his home, a lovely building with wood beams, floors and banisters. He focused on his contemporary Romanian artists but also had some masters like Rubens, Renoir, Sisley, Pissaro, Cezanne, Matisse and even a Picasso I liked (the “Bullfight” from his early years before he went weird). 10 Lei, reduction only with a pensioners document
Palatul Primaverii (Spring Palace, House of Ceausescu). Built between 1960-65 by his predecessor who died, Ceausescu (1918-1989) moved in immediately after he won the election and then completely redecorated it in a kitschy style with lots of gilt and white rooms. It was the family home and each of his 3 children had their own apartment. Visit virtually every room in the house including his private apartments that very few ever saw (including the famous gold bathroom fixtures – actually just gold plated – the total amount of gold amounted to only 15gms). The dressing area, just off the indoor winter garden, had many closets, at least 20 for his wife. Downstairs in this area was a solar bed, sauna, physiotherapy unit, Jacuzzi and a large swimming pool. Throughout the house are paintings of peasants, many mosaics (the shower was gold mosaic as was the part of the ceiling in the bathroom), lots of peacock images (his favourite bird, many remain on the grounds), and presents from other rulers (most were autocrats) and 11,000 he received throughout his life, especially birthday presents. The 4 bunkers under the property can only be visited on a special tour.
He was famously paranoid about being poisoned – a food taster came with him on foreign trips, the fireplaces had no chimneys as he thought that would be a likely way to poison him and no air conditioning, just a ventilation system. He was a poor hunter but went hunting with food traps and sedated animals. Despite having only 4 years of education, he “wrote” 22 idealogy books. His philosophy was the people needed to struggle and Romania was well known for its food, electricity and heat shortages. But he was also the only leader who stood up to the USSR when they invaded Czechoslovakia in 1968.
His wife was famous for her PhD that was obtained in 3 months and reputably 2000 pairs of shoes. She was also his vice prime minister. They had poor relationships with their children as they were over protective and they had no private life. His son Nikolai, the “Little Prince” was being groomed to succeed him but was a womanizer and died of cirrhosis from alcohol at age 45. His daughter, Zoia was a mathematics professor at a university and died of lung cancer.
This can only be visited by tour and preferably reservations are required. I arrived 5 minutes before any English tour was to start and got in. 50 Lei, 40 reduced (the most expensive attraction in Bucharest.
NICOLAE CEAUSESCU (26 January 1918 – 25 December 1989) was a Romanian communist politician. He was the General Secretary of the Romanian Communist Party from 1965 to 1989 and hence the second and last Communist leader of Romania. He was also the country’s head of state from 1967, serving as President of the State Council and from 1974 concurrently as President of the Republic until his overthrow in the Romanian Revolution in December 1989, part of a series of anti-Communist and anti-Soviet Union uprisings in Eastern Europe that year.
Born in 1918 in Scornicești, Olt County, Ceaușescu was a member of the Romanian Communist youth movement. Ceaușescu rose up through the ranks of Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej’s Socialist government and, upon Gheorghiu-Dej’s death in 1965, he succeeded to the leadership of Romania’s Communist Party as General Secretary.
Upon his rise to power, he eased press censorship and openly condemned the Warsaw Pact invasion of Czechoslovakia in his speech on 21 August 1968, which resulted in a surge in popularity. However, the resulting period of stability was very brief as his government very soon became severely totalitarian and was considered the most repressive in the Eastern Bloc at the time. His secret police, the Securitate, was responsible for mass surveillance as well as severe repression and human rights abuses within the country and he suppressed and controlled the media and press, implementing methods that were among the harshest, most restrictive and brutal in the world. Economic mismanagement due to failed oil ventures during the 1970s led to skyrocketing foreign debts for Romania. In 1982, he exported much of the country’s agricultural and industrial production in an effort to repay them. The shortages that followed drastically lowered living standards, leading to heavy rationing of food, water, oil, heat, electricity, medicine and other necessities. His cult of personality experienced unprecedented elevation, followed by extensive nepotism and the intense deterioration of foreign relations, even with the Soviet Union.
As anti-government protesters demonstrated in Timișoara in December 1989, he perceived the demonstrations as a political threat and ordered military forces to open fire on 17 December, causing many deaths and injuries. The revelation that Ceaușescu was responsible resulted in a massive spread of rioting and civil unrest across the country.[4] The demonstrations, which reached Bucharest, became known as the Romanian Revolution—the only violent overthrow of a communist government in the turn of the Revolutions of 1989. Ceaușescu and his wife Elena fled the capital in a helicopter, but they were captured by the military after the armed forces changed sides. After being tried and convicted of economic sabotage and genocide, they were immediately executed by firing squad on 25 December and Ceaușescu was succeeded as President by Ion Iliescu, who had played a major part in the revolution. Capital punishment was abolished shortly thereafter.
See the complete biography of Nicolae Ceausescu.
National Aviation Museum. This is a big money loser (3 military guards and a women inside and no visitors). Outside are 8 helicopters, at least 12 jets and inside a few small planes but mostly exhibits on the history or flying, balloons etc and a lot of vignettes, photos and medals of various Romanian flying heroes. The English was minimal and I got little from the museum. 10 Lei, 5 reduced.
Piaţa Obor (Obor Market). This is a modern 2-level market – vegetables and fruit on the bottom (they all sell the same stuff and I wonder about the level of spoilage, especially strawberries which rarely last more than 2 days with me) and meat, cheese and few specialty shops upstairs accessed by an escalator. Outside are plants and flowers, fishing and hunting, household stuff and a beer/sausage garden.
In need of a shower, I then searched for Steaua Bucharest Swimming Pool – it turned out to be in the middle of a military base and was not accessible. Bucharest appears to have no public swimming pools that appear on Google Maps. The other one I went to was in an apartment complex, charged 50 Lie and then wouldn’t let me use it just for a shower!
NATIONAL MUSEUMS of ROMANIAN LITERATURE. There are four of these, all listed in the NM “House Museums” series.
Tudor Arghezi Mărțișor Memorial House. Born Ion N Theodorescu (1880-1967) he wrote short stories and poems under the pen name Ion Th. Arghezzi and Argehezi became his formal name in 1956. He was a monk for 5 years, lived in Paris, London and Italy returning to Romania in 1910, mostly writing for magazines. After WW I he was imprisoned for 1 year for treason (he had written for a German backed magazine). He was editor of several magazines. He built this house in the middle of an orchard from 1926-1941. Over his life he wrote many books of poems, novels and a comedy, was banned during the early Communist years from 1948-1954 and was named the national poet of Romania in 1965.
The house named “Martisor” has 2 floors and 18 small rooms filled with his original furniture and was turned into a museum in 1974. Outside is a building with a printing press (published a magazine) and the 3 graves of him, his wife and daughter. Walk down a 200m gravel road through the orchard to access. 4 Lei, 2 reduced.
George Bacovia Memorial House. George Bacovia (1881-1957), the pen name of Gheorghe Vasiliu, was a Romanian symbolist poet. While he initially belonged to the local Symbolist movement, launched as a poet by Al. Macedonski with the poem and poetry collection Plumb (“Lead“), his poetry came to be seen as a precursor of Romanian Modernism and eventually established him in critical esteem alongside Tudor Arghezi, Lucian Blaga, Ion Pillat and Ion Barbu as one of the most important interwar Romanian poets. In the 1950s, he wrote the poem “Cogito” which is his poetic testament.
There was no brochure in English except a print out telling only about the house and staff spoke no English. The house and interior are very simple with a few rooms to see, and not of much interest to me. 8 Lie, 4 reduced.
Liviu and Fanny Rebreanu Memorial House. Liviu Rebreanu (1885-1944) was a Romanian novelist, playwright, short story writer, and journalist. Born in Târlișua, Transylvania, then part of Austria-Hungary, he went to the Ludovica Military Academy in Budapest. He worked as an officer in Gyula but resigned in 1908, and in 1909 illegally crossed the Southern Carpathians into Romania, and lived in Bucharest. He joined several literary circles, and worked as a journalist for Ordinea, then for Falanga literară şi artistică. At the request of the Austro-Hungarian government, he was arrested and extradited in 1910. Rebreanu was incarcerated in Gyula, being freed in August; he returned to Bucharest. He got married to actress Fanny Rădulescu.
His first published in 1912 with a volume of novellas gathered under the title Frământări (“Troublings”). During World War I Rebreanu was a reporter for Adevărul, and he continued publishing short stories: Golanii (“The Hooligans”) and Mărturisire (Confession) in 1916 and Răfuială (“Resentfullness”) in 1919. In 1920 Rebreanu published his novel Ion, the first modern Romanian novel, in which he depicted the struggles over land ownership in rural Transylvania. For Ion, Rebreanu received a Romanian Academy award – he became a full member of the institution in 1939. Between 1928 and 1930 he was chairman of the National Theatre of Bucharest, and from 1925 to 1932 he was President of the Romanian Writers’ Society. In 1944, aged 59, he died of a lung disease in his country house in Valea Mare-Podgoria, Argeș County.
Short stories and novellas:
Catastrofa (“The Catastrophe”) (19
Norocul (“The Luck”) (1921)
Cuibul visurilor (“Nest of Dreams”) (1927)
Cântecul lebedei (“The Swan Song”) (1927)
Ițic Ștrul dezertor (“Iţic Ştrul as a Deserter”) (1932)
Ion (1920)
Crăișorul (approx. “The Little King”) (1929)
Răscoala (“The Revolt”) (1932)
Gorila (“The Gorilla”) (1938)
Psychological novels
Pădurea spânzuraților (“Forest of the Hanged” – a frequent translation title, although the Romanian version translates as “The Forest of the Hanged”) (1922)
Adam şi Eva (“Adam and Eve”) (1925)
Ciuleandra (1927)
Jar (“Embers”) (1934)
Other novels
Amândoi (“Both”) (1940)
Plays
Cadrilul (“The Quadrille”) (1919)
Plicul (“The Envelope”) (1923)
Apostolii (“The Apostles”) (1926)
Google Maps could not locate this and I went to the address Boulevardul Professor Doctor Gheorghe Marinescu 19. There were no markings of a house museum, but a large very attractive 2 story house with no signs. ??
I then tried to buy the special butane tank necessary for my stove. Made by Camping Gaz – R907 4.2kg tank, they are hard to find. Their web site listed many supposed dealers but all the visited had no businesses by these names and certainly no gas. I have checked all the large hardware stores (where you can buy them in France) but they only have the little canisters of Camping Gaz.
I have been looking throughout the Balkans and Romania unsuccessfully.
Ceausescu’s Grave. In the NM “Dark Side” series, the grave is in Cimitirul Civil si Militar Ghencea. From the main entrance, walk 200m to the chapel visible from the gate and the grave is just to the right, occupying a small site no larger than any other grave. There is no mausoleum or monumental tomb, simply a polished red granite 2x1m slab with a smaller thinner slab on top. There were 4 lit candles and 2 that were out. The gravestone reads:
NICOLAE CEAUSESCU
PRESEDINTELE
REPUBLICII SOCIALISTE ROMANIA
1918-1989
ELENA CEAUSESCU
1919-1989
The only places in Buchareste in the NM lists I didn’t see were the Dimitrie Leonida Technical Museum (Open only on Saturdays and Sunday) and the Bucharest Zoo.
I then started my journey to see the rest of Romania, the Southeast and Northwest before going to Moldava. My search for the butane tank and shower continues. I am going to stop cooking meals, eat out more, and have only salads for dinner. I can’t go without coffee.
NOMAD MANIA ROMANIA – General
Experiences:
Folk dancing (in village or local festival)
Martisor
Play Oină
Taste Mămăligă
Taste Sarma
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars:
Romania Intercity Railway Experience
Transylvania/Danube routes (Sinaia-Sighisoara etc.)
NOMAD MANIA Romania – Bucharest/South (Craiova, Ploieşti, Călăraşi, Slatina)
World Heritage Sites: Monastery of Horezu
Tentative WHS:
Eglises byzantines et post-byzantines de Curtea de Arges (01/03/1991)
L’ensemble monumental de Tirgu Jiu (01/03/1991) (Infinity Column)
Sights:
Cantacuzino Castle, Busteni
Peles Castle
Sphinx and Babele, Bucegi Mountains
Islands:
Balta Ialomiței
Ostrovul Mare
Borders:
Bulgaria-Romania
Romania (sea border/port/river)
Romania-Serbia
Museums: Busteni: Muzeul Memorial Cezar Petrescu
Castles, Palaces, Forts:
Căciulați: Ghica family Palace Ghica Palace Victoria?)
Mogoşoaia: Mogoşoaia Palace
Religious Temples:
Curtea de Argeș Cathedral (Catedraka Arhiepiscopala Regala)
Horezu Monastery
World of Nature: Buila-Vânturarița
Festivals: Summer Well
Bizzarium: Bor: Decebal’s Head
Villages and Small Towns:
PALILULA
SINAIA
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Telecabina Sinaia
Castles, Palaces, Forts:
Peles Castle (Sight)
Pelișor Castle
Religious Temples: Sinaia Monastery
CAMPULUNG
Museums: Muzeul de Etnografie
Vehicle Museums: Campulung: Romanian Automobile Museum
European Cities:
CĂLĂRAŞI
DROBETA-TURNU-SEVERIN
GIURGIU
PITESTI
PLOIESTI Ploiești Trams
RAMNICU VALCEA
SLATINA
TARGOVISTE
BUCHAREST
Sights: Bucharest Centre Architectural Ensemble
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Bucharest Metro, Bucharest Tram, Gara de Nord
Museums:
Dimitrie Leonida Technical Museum
George Enescu National Museum (Cantacuzino Palace)
Grigore Antipa National Museum of Natural History
Jewish Museum (Templul Unirea Sfanta)
Museum of the National Bank of Romania
Museum of the Romanian Peasant
National Military Museum
National Museum of Art of Romania
National Museum of Contemporary Art
National Museum of Romanian History
Romanian Kitsch Museum
Zambaccian Museum
House Museums/Plantations:
Filipescu-Cesianu House
George Bacovia Memorial House
??Liviu and Fanny Rebreanu Memorial House
Tudor Arghezi Mărțișor Memorial House
Zambaccian Museum
Open-Air Museums: Bucharest: Village Museum “Dimitrie Gusti”
Aviation Museums: Bucharest: National Aviation (and Space) Museum
Castles, Palaces, Forts:
Cantacuzino Palace
CEC Palace (Palace of the Deposits and Consignments)
Cotroceni Palace
Curtea Veche
Palace of Justice
Palace of the Parliament
Palatul Primaverii (Spring Palace)
Sutu Palace (Municipal Museum)
Religious Temples:
Romanian Orthodox Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarchal Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helena)
Stavropoleos Monastery
Modern Architecture: Buildings and Monuments
The Palace of Parliament
Bucharest Telephone Palace
Entertainment/Things to do:
ARCUB Gabroveni
Green Hours 22
The Dark Side: Ceausescu’s grave
Botanical Gardens: The Botanical Garden
Malls/Department Stores
AFI Cotroceni
Baneasa Shopping City Mall
Markets:
Piaţa Matache
Piaţa Obor
Valea Cascadelor
Monuments: Bucharest: Memorial of Rebirth
Bizzarium: Bucharest: Romanian Kitsch Museum
Festivals
Bucharest Photofest
EUROPAfest
George Enescu Festival
Outernational Days
TARGU JIU
Tentative WHS: L’ensemble monumental de Tirgu Jiu (01/03/1991) (Infinity Column)
Monuments: Târgu Jiu: Brancusi’s Endless Column
CRAIOVA Craiova Trams
Museums:
Craiova Art Museum
Museum of Oltenia
Palaces: Administrative Palace
