IRAN – General

HISTORY 
Persia has always exerted a large cultural influence on its neighbors, especially Afghanistan, the Caucasus and Central Asia. Persian influence can be seen in the art, architecture and languages of these areas, and in the Indian Subcontinent.
The empire existed over most of the time period from about 500 BCE until the revolution of 1979, but its fortunes varied enormously over the centuries. During the Achaemenid Empire, Persia controlled most of what we now call the Middle East, and after Cyrus the Great’s conquest of Ionia, Persia came close to conquering Greece in the Greco-Persian Wars of 499-449 BC. In 331 BC, Alexander conquered (among other places) the entire Persian Empire.
Sassanid rule from 205 AD to 651 AD is considered to be the most influential period of ancient Persia. In 651 AD, immediately after the death of Muhammad, the brutal conquest of Persia by the Arabs brought an end to the Sasanian Empire. Persian and other languages of the region are still written with the Arabic alphabet. In 1221 AD, Persia was overrun by Genghis Khan and the Mongols. Marco Polo passed through later in that century, learned Persian, and wrote extensively of the region. Tamerlane conquered Persia in 1383, and after a revolt in 1387, killed hundreds of thousands of people and built a tower with their skulls.
The Safavid dynasty re-united Persia as an independent state in 1501, established Shi’a Islam as the official religion, and ushered in a golden age of Persian culture. The dynasty was overthrown in 1736 by Nader Shah, the last great Asian conqueror, who expanded the empire to again include Afghanistan and much of India. His short-lived dynasty and its successor, the Zand dynasty, lasted until 1795.
The Qajar dynasty ruled from 1795-1925. While many of the historic buildings in Iran are from this period, this era is considered to be one of decline for Iran, as the rulers were more interested in building their collections of art and jewels and succumbed to heavy pressure from foreign powers, notably Britain and Russia who jointly occupied Iran during World War I. In 1906, Qajar rule became a constitutional monarchy and the Majlis (Persian for parliament) was established.
The Last Dynasty. In 1925, a military coup by Reza Shah established a new “Pahlavi” dynasty, named for the most ancient Persian dynasty around 500 BC. His rule was quite nationalistic; he changed the country’s name from Persia to Iran, and built a strong military. He was also quite authoritarian; he built a powerful secret police and a propaganda apparatus, and did not hesitate to crush dissent. He also made considerable efforts toward modernization, and came into conflict with conservatives over some of it.
When World War II came, he refused Allied demands for guarantees that Iran would resist if German forces got that far. Iran was then invaded by Anglo-Indian forces from the south and Russians from the north, and a railway was built (largely by US Army engineers) to bring supplies from the Persian Gulf across Iran to beleaguered Russia. Reza Shah went off to exile in South Africa, abdicating on the steps of the aircraft in favour of his son.
The son, Mohammad Reza Shah, continued his father’s nationalistic, authoritarian and modernising tendencies. As Iranian ruler he couldn’t choose Britain or Russia as allies. Being pro-German had not worked out well for his father and France wasn’t strong enough at the time. That left the Americans, and he became one of America’s most important allies in the region, seen as a “bulwark against Communism”, a constitutional monarch, in some ways a progressive ruler — modernising, sometimes comparing himself to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk who led Turkey’s modernisation — and a protector of US and other Western interests. He was one of very few Middle Eastern rulers to extend diplomatic recognition to Israel and helped prevent Iranian nationalisation of the Anglo-Persian Oil Company. On the other hand, he was quite capable of putting Iranian interests before Western ones, as when he was one of the key players in creating OPEC.
While in some ways progressive, the Shah was also very much a despot. When the Soviets left Northwestern Iran after the war, they left behind something that claimed to be an independent communist government of Azerbaijan. The first major conflict of the Cold War came as the Shah, advised by the CIA, brought in troops who crushed that government and the Communist Party (Tudeh in Farsi). Throughout his reign, his Savak secret police stomped hard on any opposition. His regime was also massively corrupt, with his relatives and various others getting hugely rich while much of the country was very poor. On the other hand, he did build infrastructure and start various projects to benefit the poor, including a program that sent new university graduates into the countryside as teachers.
In theory, Iran under the Shah was a constitutional monarchy. Mohammed Mosaddeq was elected Prime Minister in 1951 and instituted reforms that included nationalizing the oil companies and a land reform program, and also limited the power of the Shah as part of a constitutional monarchy. He was overthrown in a 1953 coup backed by the CIA, the British (who had large oil interests at stake), and the Shah. The Shah and the new Prime Minister reversed the oil nationalization, but continued with the land reform program. However, as well as giving land to the peasants, it worked out that the Shah’s family and others with connections got a lot. The Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini went into exile at this time because of his objections to land reform taking land from the mosques. In 1971, the Shah organised an expensive celebration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire at Persepolis. The extravagant party resulted in harsh criticism and his popularity ratings never recovered.
In 1979, the Shah was overthrown and went into exile, dying a year later. The revolution involved many groups – Mosaddeq-style secular reformers, the tudeh communists, and various Islamic factions – but came to be led and dominated by a conservative Islamic faction under Ayatollah Khomeini. Partly in reaction to the Shah’s policies, they were also strongly anti-Western and in particular anti-American.
Religious conservatives subsequently crushed Westernisation and also any liberal or left-wing influences. Iranian student protesters seized the US Embassy in Tehran on 4 November 1979 and held hostages for 444 days – until 20 January 1981. Noticing the upheaval in Iran, Saddam Hussein seized Iranian oil fields in the south of the country and from 1980 to 1988, Iran fought a bloody, indecisive war with Iraq and in the end, the borders were turned back to their pre-war locations.
Current Issues. Key current issues affecting the country include the pace of accepting outside modernising influences and reconciliation between clerical control of the regime and popular government participation and widespread demands for reform. Inflation and unemployment (particularly among youth) are major economic challenges. Relations between Iran and the rest of the world, particularly Western countries, have considerably improved with the 2015 nuclear agreement, which started a gradual lift of economical sanctions against the country. On the other hand, relations between Iran and Saudi Arabiahave drastically deteriorated: as of 2017, the two countries are on opposite sides in violent wars in Syria and Yemen. The United States pulled out of the nuclear agreement and proceeded to impose more punitive sanctions on Iran after a new president came to power in 2017, and relations between the two have deteriorated rapidly since then, with both countries often threatening to go to war with each other. This has certain consequences for visitors to both countries. All Iranian presidents since 1979 as well as both “spiritual leaders”, Khomeini and Khamenei also have engaged in various degrees of anti-Israel rhetoric (often refusing even to use the word “Israel”), though there continues to exist an Iranian Jewish community that is even represented in parliament. Perhaps the case most noticed in the west was when President Ahmadinejad was translated (among other sources on his own English language website) as calling for Israel to be “wiped off the map” garnering notable controversy and allegations of mistranslation. However, as Ahmadinejad himself pointed out, he was only paraphrasing a statement often made by Khomeini and Khamenei in various forms which is nigh-consensus among the highest echelons of the Iranian political and religious elite.

RELIGION 
The main divisions of Islam are Shi’a and Sunni. The split goes back to a time just after the Prophet’s death; would the movement be controlled by some of his leading followers (Sunni), or by his family, in particular by his son-in-law Ali (Shi’a)? (Shi’a comes from “shiat Ali”, i.e. the faction/party of Ali) There was a long, complex and bloody struggle over this. Today, Iran is one of a few countries that are predominantly Shi’a, and the only one where Shi’a Islam is the official religion. The Iranian government supports the Shi’a Hezbollah movement among others, and is therefore accused by America of fomenting terrorism.
One of the major events of Shi’a religious life is the Day of Ashura on the 10th of the month of Moharram; “ashura” means “10th”. It commemorates the death of Ali’s son Hussein at the Battle of Karbala in 61 AH (680 AD). This is not a joyful celebration, but a very sober day of atonement. travellers should not play music or act remarkably cheerful in public at this time.
Traditional activities include parades in which people do ‘matham’ — chest-beating, self-flagellation, sometimes even hitting oneself with a sword — which is a way of remembering Imam Hussein who was martyred along with his half brother, cousins, friends, and two young sons. Dramatic re-enactments of the battle are also sometimes done.
While Shi’a Islam is without a doubt the dominant religion in Iran, there are several religious minorities. Sunni Islam in Iran is mainly practiced by ethnic minorities such as the Arabs, Kurds, Balushis, and Turkmens. Non-Islamic faiths also exist in smaller numbers, the most notable being Zoroastrianism, Christianity, and Judaism, all three of which are recognized as minority religions by the Iranian constitution, and guaranteed representation in parliament. Despite Iran being an Islamic republic, fire temples, churches, and synagogues continue to operate legally in the country. Most Iranian Christians follow Oriental Orthodoxy, and are of Armenian ethnicity. Iran also has the largest Jewish population in the Middle East outside Israel. While there are also a significant number of Baha’is in Iran, they are not recognized by the constitution and are instead branded as heretics of Islam, meaning that they continue to be persecuted to this day in spite of being Iran’s numerically largest non-Muslim religion. One unique practice among Iranian men and women is the encounter of wedleases (temporary marriages) which locally are known as mut’ah.

CLIMATE 
Iran has a diverse climate. In the northwest, winters are cold with heavy snowfall and subzero temperatures during December and January. Spring and fall are relatively mild, while summers are dry and hot. In the south, winters are mild and the summers are very hot, having average daily temperatures in July exceeding 38° C (100° F) and can hit 50° C in parts of the desert. On the Khuzestan plain, summer heat is accompanied by high humidity.
In general, Iran has an arid climate in which most of the relatively scant annual precipitation falls from October to April. In most of the country, yearly precipitation averages 25 cm or less. The major exceptions are the higher mountain valleys of the Zagros and the Caspian coastal plain, where precipitation averages at least 50 cm annually. In the western part of the Caspian, rainfall exceeds 100 cm annually and is distributed relatively evenly throughout the year.

GEOGRAPHY 
Rugged, mountainous rim; high, central basin with deserts, mountains; small, discontinuous plains along both coasts. The highest point is Mount Damavand (5,610 m).
Desert: two great deserts extend over much of central Iran: the Dasht-e Lut is covered largely with sand and rocks, and the Dasht-e Kavir is covered mainly with salt. Both deserts are inhospitable and virtually uninhabited.
Mountain: the Zagros range stretches from the border with the Republic of Armenia in the north-west to the Persian Gulf, and then eastward into Baluchistan. Zagros is extremely hard, difficult to access, and populated largely by pastoral nomads. The Alborz mountain range, narrower than the Zagros, runs along the southern shore of the Caspian to meet the border ranges of Khorasan to the east.
Forest: approximately 11% of Iran is forested, most extensively in the Caspian region, and is densely populated. Here one finds the broad-leafed, vigorous deciduous trees, usually oak, beech, linden, elm, walnut, ash, and hornbeam, as well as a few broad-leafed evergreens. Thorny shrubs and fern also abound. The narrow Caspian coastal plain, in contrast, is covered with rich brown forest soil.

GET IN
Visa
Visa restrictions: Entry will be refused to citizens of Israel and to foreign travellers with any evidence of having visited Israel — not just Israeli entry stamps, but also Egyptian and Jordanian stamps from border crossings with Israel — except that if you had an Israeli visa that expired more than a year before you apply for an Iranian visa, you may be allowed entry into Iran. Egyptian and Jordanian visas have no effect on applications for Iranian visas.
Under rules passed in 2016, travellers who have visited Iran on or after 1 March 2011 are not eligible for visa-free entry to the United States of America under its Visa Waiver Program (VWP), unless their visit to Iran was for diplomatic or military purposes in the service of a VWP country. They need to apply for a visa to enter the United States.

For US, UK and Canadian citizens. US, UK or Canadian citizens must be part of a tour group approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, or have an MFA-approved guide to accompany them for the entire trip and must have an exact itinerary. This generally precludes crossing into Iran at any border, as your guide would have to meet you at the border. Tour guides, however, are generally friendly to Americans, Britons and Canadians, understand the process, and can work with you to set up a custom itinerary. US and Canadian citizens can apply for a visa through the Iranian Interest Section of the Pakistani Embassy in Washington, DC. Britons can apply through the Iranian embassy in London.
The applicant’s travel agency must provide a detailed itinerary of the tour in order to apply for a visa authorisation number from the MFA. Once approved, the authorisation number is transmitted to the embassy or Interest Section. At that point, the applicant can then apply for the visa. Turnaround times can be as short as a week, but the Interest Section in Washington does not reliably answer emails or phone calls.
The Iran tourist visa is issued for up to 30 days and is extendable. It must be obtained before travelling to Iran and valid to enter for 90 days from the issue date. Approved Iranian travel agents can apply and get visas for all foreign nationals (except Israeli passport holders).
To apply and get your visa you must contact an approved Iranian travel agent, or go to an Iranian consulate. After receiving your personal data, they apply to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Your visa will then be authorised by the MFA and faxed to the Iranian consulate near you. Your travel agent gives you a visa authorisation number with which you can refer to the consulate to get your visa. The visa authorisation number, however, is valid only in the consulate you have asked them your visa to be issued in. The number they give you is just an “authorisation”. This reference number means that your visa has been authorised and approved by the MFA but is not the visa.
Depending on your nationality, you may be required to present at the Iranian consulate in your country to have your fingerprints taken. British and American passport holders will be fingerprinted upon arrival.
After your travel agent tells you your visa authorisation number you should first get a visa application from the consulate and follow the requirements of the application form (you may either personally go to the consulate to get the application forms or, if the service available, download it from the web site of the Iranian embassy in your country). Then, you should refer to the consulate to lodge your passports and application forms with the visa number they gave you (it can be either a physical presence or by post). Then it might take from 1-5 days for the consulate to issue your visa.
You may also need to provide a letter of recommendation from your embassy if you are applying outside your home country, a photocopy of your air tickets in and out of Iran and any student or press card.
Normally, all tourist visas issued by Iranian consulates have a “3-month” validity. The visa allows you to stay in Iran for up to 30 days, (sometimes you can get the tourist visa up to 90 days), although the duration of your visa is at the discretion of the MFA. (All tourist visas will be issued as a single entry, unless you request the approval from Tehran.) Tourist visas must be used within 14 days from issue, but the maximum duration of your stay is still 30 days.
Rarely, you may be asked to provide a letter from your employer or proof of funds. Visas are generally valid for three months that is you must enter Iran within three months of issue.
Depending on your nationality, issuing a visa may take 30 days or more. There are reports that it is possible to get a visa in 10 days in Istanbul consulate, especially for German passport holders.
Types of visa: Entry, Transit, Business, Tourist and Journalist. Fee varies according to nationality of applicant, type of visa and the existing regulation between countries.
A visa cannot be issued for passports which have a validity of less than 6 months. Exit permits required by all (often included with visa).
Transit visas have a maximum of 10 days. Transit visas are usually easier to get than tourist visas (usually for one or two weeks) and very useful for people travelling between Europe and South Asia. Various travel agents inside Iran help you obtain visas, often through their home pages.
You can get an extension for your transit visa usually valid for five or ten days, inside Iran easily but once for the same number of days as the original visa.
Tourist visas require a passport, an application form, four passport-sized photos, and a special authorisation in the form of a reference number issued by the Foreign Ministry in Tehran.
Extending a tourist visa is very easy and can be done in most cities. Some travel guides say not to do this in Tehran as it is very time consuming. This is no longer the case and the process of extending a visa in Tehran can be done in just 1 hour (including tea offerings and being the object of curiosity in the office). Extending a visa a second time requires the passport to be sent to a department in Tehran (no matter where you extend your visa from) and thus takes longer time than doing this the first time. The tourist visa can be extended once or twice at most, each time you can get 15 days more. The price of extending a visa is fixed rate 300,000 rial. To extend your visa in Tehran, the first or second time, you should go to the Passport and Immigration office situated on Parvin Street, at the crossing with 150 East Street and 123 Khovat Street, very close to Tehranpars metro station. Here is the OSM link: http://www.openstreetmap.org/?
Places known to extend visas happily in Iran are Tehran, Mashhad, Tabriz, Esfahan, Shiraz, Kerman and Zahedan.
Although it has become easier to get a tourist visa, whether the process takes one day or one month depends largely on your nationality and the staff of the embassy you are applying to. Your best bet is to apply to the Iranian embassy in your own country at least three months before your departure, but it is possible to obtain one while travelling in other countries, with varying degrees of difficulty. Women need to make sure they are wearing the hijab or a head scarf in their submitted passport-sized photos.

Visitors from the Persian Gulf States need no visa to enter Iran. These states are: Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Saudi Arabia and the UAE. People from Macedonia and Turkey can get a three-month tourist visa on arrival. People from Japan can get a three-month tourist visa at an Iranian embassy with no difficulty.
Visa on Arrival.
A valid passport and a visa are required for the citizens of most countries for travel through Iran. A 30-day tourist visa on arrival (VOA) is issued on arrival at the airports of Tehran, Mashhad, Shiraz and Tabriz to people from about 58 countries, including Azerbaijan, Albania, Germany, Austria, Armenia, Uzbekistan, Spain, Australia, Slovenia, Slovak, United Arab Emirates, Indonesia, Ukraine, Italy, Ireland, Bahrain, Brazil, Brunet, Belarus, Belgium, Bulgaria, Denmark, Russia, Romania, Japan, Singapore, Sweden, Switzerland, Syria, Saudi Arabia, Oman, France, Palestine, Cyprus, Kyrgyzstan, Qatar, Croatia, South Korea, North Korea, Colombia, Cuba, Kuwait, Georgia, Lebanon, Luxembourg, Poland, Malaysia, Hungary, Mongolia, Mexico, Norway, New Zealand, Venezuela, Vietnam, Netherlands, India, Yugoslavia, and Greece. If you ask nicely, they might even give you up to 90 days instead of 30. Tourist visa on arrival can be extended by 15 more days. 3-month tourist visa on arrival are issued to Chinese tourists (including Hong Kong and Macau) as well.
Citizens of the USA, UK, Canada, Somali, Bangladesh, Jordan, Afghanistan and Pakistan cannot obtain visa upon their arrival in airports, and they are required to have the visa stamped in their passport in advance. Instant visa is obtainable for tourists from the above-mentioned countries and it does not apply to those who hold official passports, businessmen or journalists. There is no restriction for foreign tourists to obtain a visa upon their arrival at Iranian airports several times within a year.
To get the visa on arrival, be sure to have a legitimate confirmed accommodation for at least a night in Iran, e.g. hostel or hotel. Write down the hostel name, the address, and the phone number as the visa officer will call your accommodation. Entry could be denied if you just write down a random hostel or hotel as they won’t be able to confirm you to the visa officer. The visa generally costs €75 for most countries (Europeans and Thais). However, the visa cost differs from nation to nation, for example for Indonesians, it costs €45 and for Croatians €50. There is no need for passport photo, the visa is issued with a copy of the photo in your passport.
Insurance is mandatory and you will need to show proof of it to get the visa. Have a confirmation by your insurance ready that clearly states that it is still valid and that it covers Iran. If you don’t have insurance, or if your insurance is rejected, you’ll have to buy insurance there for around US$16 or €14.
Your bags probably will not be searched for salacious material, but if any is found, it will be confiscated and will complicate your arrival. Don’t try to bring in any magazines or books that might offend strict Islamic sensibilities or criticise the government.
As a notable exception, nationals of all countries including Americans are allowed to travel to free economic zones of Kish, Qeshm and Chabahar without a visa for stays of 14 days or less. Kish and Qeshm are easily accessible from Dubai. See the Kish Island article for details.

By plane. All international flights to Tehran land at the new 1 Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA ^IATA) based 37 km southwest of Tehran. Pilgrimage flights to Saudi Arabia still fly from Mehrabad airport. There are 70 smaller regional airports, for example those in Shiraz, Mashhad, and Isfahan, and these have daily flights to many international destinations.
Dubai has scheduled flights to many Iranian cities, including Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan, Kerman, Lar, Mashhad, Tabriz, Kish Island, Bandar Abbas, Bushher, Zahedan, Kermanshah, Chah Bahar and is therefore worth considering travelling to Iran from. Flights are operated by Iran Air, Emirates (for Tehran), Iran Aseman Airlines, Mahan Air and other Iranian companies. Fares are relatively cheap on Iranian carriers, ranging from US$100-250 for a return trip depending on your destination and time of booking.
Iran Air and Mahan Air connect Tehran with some of the major European cities as well as destinations in Asia and Middle East. European companies landing in Tehran include Lufthansa, KLM, Alitalia, Turkish Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Aeroflot and Middle-Eastern airlines: Saudi Arabian Airlines, Emirates, and Etihad. There are also frequent flights to Armenia’s capital of Yerevan. So finding a flight to Iran should not be hard.
Qatar airlines offers several flights to Iran and provides non-stop service to Doha from to many US cities.
Low-cost carriers (LCC) also operate flights to Tehran or other cities in Iran
Pegasus Airlines has flights to Tehran via Istanbul.
Air Arabia has flights to Tehran, Mashhad and Shiraz via Sharjah.
Jazeera Airways has flights to Mashhad via Kuwait.
Turkish Airlines has flights to Tehran, Kermanshah, Tabriz, Mashhad, Isfahan and Shiraz via Istanbul.
Air Asia has flights to Tehran from Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.
If you are not staying in Tehran and planning to get to any city other than Tehran upon your arrival, you would have to change airports, from Imam Khomeini to Mehrabad, 40 km away, to get to your domestic flight. Allow at least 3-4 hr between the flights. If going to Mashhad, you may be able to avoid the plane change in Iran using Turkish Airlines, Gulf Air, Kuwait Airways, Jazeera Airways, or Qatar Airways. If going to Shiraz, several flights from Persian Gulf States are available. For Tabriz, you can try travelling via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines or via Baku on IranAir.
Sanctions have prevented airlines from buying new planes and the fleets of all airlines are old. Among Iranian based airlines Iran Air, Mahan Air and Aseman Airlines have been completely safe with no serious incidents. Flying with other airlines is not recommended. The service and flying skill of Iranian pilots are fairly well known.
Due to sanctions there are no direct flights from Canada or the USA, but you could travel via either Europe or Persian Gulf States. Non-stop flights from Dubai via JFK, IAD, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Houston or Toronto are good bets. Visitors from Australia or New Zealand can consider travelling via Dubai or Abu Dhabi, or can use a combination of Iran Air and Malaysian Airlines to get from any major city in Australia to Tehran, via Kuala Lumpur.
There are weekly flights from Sulamaniya in Iraqi Kurdistan to Sanandaj and from Arbil to Urmia.
From Damascus in Syria there are charter flights to Tabriz, Tehran, Yazd, Isfahan, Mashhad. There are agencies in Seyyedeh-Zeinab district (a popular place with Iranian pilgrimages) that can sell you empty seats of these charter flights for less than US$100. Please refer to the article on Syria for information about safety and service disruptions.

By Train. A train runs once a week between Van, Tabriz and Tehran. Eastbound this leaves Van Tuesday 21:00, with lengthy stops at the border, to reach Tabriz by 05:15 Wednesday and Tehran for 18:20. To connect with this service by rail from Istanbul you’ll need to set off on Saturday. Take the frequent fast YHT train to Ankara and stay overnight. From there, a train leaves around 11:00 Sunday (also Tuesday) taking 25 hours to reach Tatvan. An occasional ferry takes four hours to cross the lake to Van, or frequent dolmuses wind around by road; overnight in either Tatvan or Van. Then head onward Tuesday night to Tabriz and Tehran. So reckon four days; and they wonder why people prefer to fly.
Westbound is similarly laborious. Take the train from Tehran at 09:30 Monday, reaching Tabriz at 22:30 and Van at 08:00 Tuesday. As you arrive there, the onward train to Ankara is just departing from Tatvan on the other side of the lake. So either stay in the area for the Thursday departure (arriving Ankara by 08:00 Friday, and you’ll reach Istanbul that afternoon) or lose patience and take a bus from Van.
All trains between Iran and Syria are suspended indefinitely. See also the article on Syria.
Afghanistan. The Mashad-Herat railway which is under construction is completed until the city of Khaf near the Afghanistan border. The cheap daily service from Tehran to Khaf is about US$5.
Iraq. The Khorramshar-Basra railway will connect Iranian railways to Iraq. There will be special train routes for Iranians going as pilgrims to Najafand Karbala. There is another project that will be completed later going through Kermanshah to Khanaqin in Iraq.
Pakistan. The Quetta-Zahedan line connects Pakistan and Iran by rail. A train leaves every 1st and 15th of each month from Quetta and the journey takes 11 hr and costs about €8. In opposite direction the train leaves every 3rd and 17th of each month from Zahedan.
There is no passenger service on the Bam-Zahedan link, so you have to take a bus or taxi.
Azerbaijan. The Nakhchivan-Tabriz service connects Nakhchivan (city) with Tabriz and crosses from the Jolfa border. Train continues until Mashdadand goes trough Tehran. The route used to be a part of Tehran-Moscow railway line which is closed due to Azerbaijan-Armenia conflicts. There is a railway from Baku to the border city of Astara. From there you can walk through the border to Iran. The railway is going to be joined to Tehran via Rasht and Qazvin.
Turkmenistan. There is a daily service between Mashad and Sarakhs border every day. The train does not go further because of the gauge changes. At the other side of the border there is train to Merv and Ashgabat. A railway from Gorgan has been built up to the Inche Borun border which will continue to Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan.
By Car. Many people drive a car to Iran via Turkey. This requires a Carnet de Passage unless you wish to pay import duty. A carnet can be acquired from your local drivers association (such as the RAC in the UK). An international driver’s license is highly recommended, with a translation into Persian very beneficial. There are also some car rental agencies in Iran that take online bookings.
By Bus
Armenia. From Armenia there are daily, modern buses from Yerevan to Tabriz and even further to Tehran. Tickets can be bought around Republic square in Yerevan, check Tigran Mets Street for signs in Persian. Tatev Travel on Nalbandyan also sells the tickets – 12,000 Armenian dram to Tabriz or 15,000 dram to Tehran.
The only Iran/Armenia land border at Nuduz/Agarak is poorly served by public transport. On the Armenian side you can get as far as Meghri by one marshrutka a day from Yerevan. In both directions the Marshrutka leaves quiet early in the morning. From Meghri it is around 8 km to the border and hitching or a taxi is the only option. On the Iranian side the closest public transport can be found around 50 km to the west in Jolfa, so a taxi for around US$10-15 is the again only commercial choice. Expect to be asked a lot for all taxi rides, so hard bargaining is essential. Make clear, or at least pretending that you have other choices may assist you to get fairer prices.
The border is not busy at all, so when hitching you have to mainly stick with the truck drivers and Russian or Persian helps a lot here. Consider for yourself whether this is a safe option.
Turkey. You can find Seir-o-Safar agencies in Istanbul, Antalya and Ankara to buy cheap bus tickets for Tehran. A one-way ticket between Istanbul or Ankara and Tehran costs US$35.
By Boat. It is not possible to get a Visa on Arrival if arriving by boat. Therefore if you wish to enter Iran by this method you must get a visa in advance.
There are some scheduled services from Baku to Bandar Anzali on the Caspian Sea and from cities on the Persian Gulf to cities on the Iranian coast. They are usually of low quality.
From UAE. High quality semi-luxurious ferry service is available between Kish Island and Abu Dhabi and Dubai. This service costs US$50, and the journey across one of the busiest stretches of water is sure to entertain. You should confirm what the Customs and Entry Visa process is like using this service however as the boats do not enter via the airport. While the entry/exit process at the airport is fairly well established, it is unknown if the process is as well managed when entering via the docks. It is likely to be more chaotic and visas may not be issued on the spot as is the case at the airport.
There are ferries from Dubai and Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates to Bandar Abbas.

GET AROUND
Iranian transport is of high quality, and is very affordable. There are few places the very cheap buses don’t travel to, the train network is limited but comfortable and reasonably priced and travel by air is not expensive. The ticket prices are always fixed and you don’t have benefits of early bookings.
However, train stations and bus terminals are often located on the outskirts of their cities. As an extreme example, Shiraz Station is located farther away from the city center than Shiraz International Airport. Since city transport is notably underdeveloped, the cost of an intercity trip could mostly consist of taxi fares.
By Plane For anyone on a tight deadline, affordable domestic air services are a blessing. The major national carrier Iran Air, and its semi-private competitors such as Iran Aseman Airlines – Aseman meaning “sky” in Persian, Mahan Air and Kish Air link Tehran with most regional capitals and offer inter-regional flights for no more than US$60.
Their services are frequent, reliable and are definitely worth considering to skip the large distances within Iran. Planes are aging (although improved relations with Europe in recent decades has led to many orders and some deliveries of new planes), and maintenance and safety procedures are sometimes well below western standards, but it still remains the safest way to get around Iran, given the huge death toll on the roads.
Tickets can be bought at airports or travel agents dotted through the most major cities. Book early during the summer months of August and September since finding seats at short notice is virtually impossible. It is possible to pay extra to get onto a booked flight by bribing someone or paying them to take their seat on the plane. Some flights will auction off the last few seats to the highest bidder. For westerners, the conversion makes it easy to outbid everyone.
By Bus The Iranian domestic bus network is extensive and thanks to the low cost of fuel, very cheap. In fact the only drawback is speed: the government has limited buses to 80 km/h to combat lead-footed bus drivers so long haul trips such as Shiraz to Mashhad can take up to 20 hours.
There is little difference between the various bus companies, and most offer two classes: ‘lux’ or ‘Mercedes’ (2nd class) and ‘super’ or ‘Volvo’ (1st class). First class buses are air-conditioned and you will be provided with a small snack during your trip, while second class services are more frequent. Given the affordability of first class tickets (for example 70,000 rials from Esfehan to Shiraz), there’s little financial incentive to choose the second class services, especially in summer.
Buses start (and usually end) their journeys at sprawling bus stations, called “terminal” (ترمینال) in Farsi. On important routes such as Tehran–Esfahan they don’t stop along the route except at toll booths and rest areas. This probably shouldn’t discourage you from leaving a bus before its destination because most travellers would take a taxi from the terminal anyway.
Local Buses. Most cities operate comprehensive local bus services, but given the low cost of taxis and the difficulties of reading Persian-language signs (which, unlike road signs, do not have English counterparts) and route numbers, they are of little use to the casual travellers. If you’re cash strapped and brave enough to try, however, remember that the buses are segregated. Men enter via the front or rear door and hand their ticket to the driver before taking a seat in the front half of the bus. Women and children should hand their ticket to the driver via the front doors (without actually getting on) before entering via the rear door to take a seat at the back. Tickets, usually around 500 rials, are sold from booths near most bus stops. Private buses accept cash instead of tickets. There is also rechargeable credit ticket cards accepted in buses and metro stations (in Tehran, paper tickets are not accepted in buses).
By Train. Raja Passenger Trains is the passenger rail system. Travelling by train through Iran is generally more comfortable and faster than speed-limited buses. Sleeper berths in overnight trains are especially good value as they allow you to get a good night’s sleep while saving on a night’s accommodation.
The rail network is comprised of three main trunks. The first stretches east to west across the north of the country linking the Turkish and Turkmenistan borders via Tabriz, Tehran and Mashhad. The second and third extend south of Tehran but split at Qom. One line connects to the Persian Gulf via Ahvaz and Arak, while the other traverses the country’s centre linking Kashan, Yazd, Kerman and Bandar Abbas.
Departures along mainlines are frequent. 6 to 7 daily trains leave Tehran for Kerman and Yazd, with additional three bound for Yazd and Bandar Abbas. Mashhad and Tehran are linked by some ten direct overnight trains, not counting services to Karaj, Qom, Kashan, etc. Direct services between main lines are rare, if any. For example, Esfahan and Yazd are connected by one train running every second day.
There are high-speed trains from Tehran to Mashhad and Bandar Abbas called Pardis. Another high-speed line connecting Tehran, Imam Khomeini Airport, Qom and Esfahan is under construction as of 2016.
Tickets can be bought from train stations up to one month before the date of departure, and it is wise to book at least a couple of days in advance during the peak domestic holiday months. First class tickets cost roughly twice the comparable bus fare.
Known as a “ghatar” in Persian; trains are probably the cheapest, safest, most reliable and easiest way to travel around the country. As an added benefit; you’ll get to meet the people, sample food and see other tourists. You also avoid all the checkpoints you will encounter driving on the road. Trains are frequently delayed so leave plenty of time between destinations.
Metro. Tehran, Mashad, Shiraz and Isfahan.
Taxi  Low fuel costs have made inter-city travel by taxi a great value option in Iran. When travelling between cities up to 250 km apart, you may be able to hire one of the shared savāri taxis that loiter around bus terminals and train stations. taxis are faster than buses and Taxis will only leave when four paying passengers have been found, so if you’re in a hurry you can offer to pay for an extra seat.
Official shared local taxis or Savari, also ply the major roads of most cities. The taxis are generally yellow, and on busy routs there are green vans with a capacity of 11 passengers. They offer a lower fare for each passenger. They usually run straight lines between major squares and landmarks, and their set rates between 2,000-10,000 rials are dictated by the local governments.
Hailing one of these taxis is an art you’ll soon master. Stand on the side of the road with traffic flowing in your intended direction and flag down a passing cab. It will slow down fractionally, giving you about one second to shout your destination–pick a major nearby landmark instead of the full address–through the open passenger window. If the driver is interested, he’ll slow down enough for you to negotiate the details or simply accepts your route.
If you’re in a hurry, you can rent the taxi privately. Just shout the destination followed by the phrase dar bast (literally ‘closed door’) and the driver will almost be sure to stop. Negotiate the price before departure, but since you are paying for all the empty seats expect to pay four times the normal shared taxi fare.
You can also rent these taxis by the hour to visit a number of sites, but you can expect to pay from 40,000-70,000 rials/hr, depending on your bargaining skills.
Most of the taxis have “taximeters” but only ‘closed door’ green taxis use it.
There are several popular ride hailing services available in the major cities similar to Uber. Snapp and Tap30 are the major applications which can be installed on iOS and Android devices for free. You can pay in cash or if you have an Iranian debit card, you may pay in the app as well.
Car. A large road network and low fuel costs (10,000 rials/L for Iranians in Oct 2017) have historically made Iran an attractive country for exploring with your own car. However a government fuel tax on foreigners entering Iran by private car has somewhat dimmed the allure.
Foreigners arriving in Iran with their own car must have a Carnet de passage and a valid international drivers’ license. Petrol stations can be found on the outskirts of all cities and towns and in car-filled Iran, a mechanic is never far away.
Do not underestimate the sheer chaos of Iran’s traffic. The often ignored road rules state that you must drive on the right unless overtaking and give way to traffic coming on to a roundabout. Drivers frequently top 160 km/h (100 mph) on intercity highways. Laws requiring car occupants to wear seat belts for rear passengers are not always complied with. Motorcycles are sometimes seen transporting up to five people, without helmets.
Avoid large rocks in the middle of highway. These are often placed there in an attempt to burst your tires. Afterward, a passerby will offer to replace your tire for US$50. This is of course a scam that occurs mostly at nighttime but has diminished due to aggressive policing.
You can also rent a car, usually for US$20-50 a day. Insurance and legal liability may make you think twice about renting a car, especially considering the fact that renting a car with a driver usually costs the same. People are not allowed to carry their pet even in their private car and will receive driving penalties if caught by the Police.
Iranian roads and major streets usually feature traffic enforcement cameras.

LANGUAGE
Persian (called fārsi in Persian), an Indo-European language, is Iran’s national and official language. Although Persian is written with a modified Arabic alphabet, the two languages are not related; however, Persian does contain a very large number of Arabic loanwords (that may differ in meaning), many of which are part of basic Persian vocabulary.
Many young Iranians in major cities, and almost certainly those working at international travel agencies and high-end hotels will know conversational English, but for the tourist knowing basic Persian phrases will definitely be of use, particularly in rural areas.
Road signs are often double signed in English, but few other signs are. As an extra challenge, most Persian signage uses an ornate calligraphic script that bears little resemblance to its typed form. This can make comparing typed words in phrase books–such as ‘bank’ and ‘hotel’–to signs on buildings quite difficult. However it is still worth memorising the Persian script for a few key words such as restaurant, guesthouse, and hotel.
Being able to recognise Persian numerals is extremely helpful in situations where one needs to deal with directions (e.g. finding a bus at a bus station) and sums (e.g. understanding what is written on a restaurant bill). The numerals are:

ARMENIAN CHURCHES 
Vank Cathedral in Isfahan.
Saint Thaddeus Monastery in West Azerbaijan Province.
Saint Stepanos Monastery in West Azerbaijan Province.

DO 
Meymand (Meimand), Kerman province, Shahr-e-Babak (Persian Gulf high way). Meymand (Maymand, Meimand, Maimand) is a very ancient village located nearby Shahr -e- Babak city in Kerman Province. Maymand is believed to be one humanities earliest remaining places of habitation on the Iranian Plateau and dates back 12,000 years. It is still inhabited by around 150 people, mostly hospitable elderly citizens who live in 410 houses hand hewn into the rocks. 10,000 year old stone engravings surround the village. 6,000 year old potteries relics reveal a long history of the village. Living conditions in Maymand are harsh due to the aridity of the land and to high temperatures in summers and very cold winters.
Desert trekking and desert excursions
Though the northern part of Iran is covered by dense rain forests called Shomal or the Jungles of Iran. The eastern parts consists mostly of desert basins such as the Dasht-e Kavir, Iran’s largest desert, in the north-central portion of the country, and the Dasht-e Lut, in the east, and some salt lakes. There is also the Central desert which as can be understood from its name is located in the central regions. This is because the mountain ranges are too high for rain clouds to reach these regions.
There are a lot of activities that can be done in the desert areas including; desert tracking, camel riding, bicycle riding and 4×4 driving excursions.
In some parts of the deserts there are some camping sites available. The easiest budget-priced desert tours can be organised in Na’in and Kashan.

FESTIVALS
Norouz Eve, The beginning of Iranian New Year and the start of the Spring. On the 20th or 21st of March. It is rooted in the Zoroastrian religion.
Chahar-shanbe Suri (Wednesday festival) – On the last Wednesday before Nowruz. People set up fires. The traditional festival involves jumping over the fire while saying a specific sentence. Nowadays it involves a lot of firecrackers although the government is against it and police usually disperse the young people’s gathering!
Shab-e Yalda, the last night of autumn, which is the longest night of the year, is celebrated in Iran, and has a history from long ago (Mithraism age). Families has traditional gathering to communicate and eat the last remaining fresh fruits from summer. They read traditional Persian poems or stories.
Ashura-Tasua is the most interesting and amazing days for tourists. Shia Muslims believe that Hussein, their popular leader and the grandson of their prophet Muhammad, was killed in the year 61 AH along with his family and 72 Muslims in the so-called battle of Karbala. He fought a king that he believed did not follow the real Islamic values. For Shia Muslims this was a very sad event and a period of intense grief and mourning. Therefore, Iranians throughout the country wear black clothes during the grieving month of Muharram and hoist black flags everywhere. On Ashura people do public carnival-like ‘theater plays’ in mosques (with horses, sometimes huge fires) in memorial of Husseins sacrifice. So far the city of Yazd is probably the best place to observe Ashura as a large group of volunteers organise several days of ‘spiritual tourism’: free shuttle buses bring tourists to the sides, catering and English speaking volunteers who explain everything – for free. During that time pretty much everything is closed including shops and tourist sites.
Golabgiri, of Kashan city near Isfahan. During the spring some people go there to obtain the local rose water. It has very nice smell and many use it in traditional drinks.

SKI. There are five ski pisted around Tehran. They are at Dizin, Darbandsar, Tochal and Shemshak.
SWIM. Iran has coastline along the Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf. A popular place for its beaches is Kish Island in the Persian Gulf that men can enjoy it all the year & women are limited to use only covered beaches.

MONEY
The rial, denoted by the symbol “﷼” or “IR” (IRR) is the currency of Iran.
Coins are rarely if ever used. Banknotes are produced in 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, and 100,000 denominations and banknotes called “Iran Cheques” are produced in 500,000 and 1,000,000 denominations.
While the official exchange rate in May 2019 was 42,100 rials to US$1, the rate offered on the black market was 150,000 rials to US$1. Be sure to understand the risks of black market trading if you decide to exchange money this way.
In March 2019, the exchange offices at Tehran Airport were offering the best rates in that city: 151,000-153,000 rials for €1; 170,000-173,000 rials for £1; 139,000 rials for US$1 (dollar rate as of 26 Apr 2019) – at the airport, first floor (departures).
Toman Confusion with the currency is standard for a visitor, not just because of the large numbers but because of the shorthand routinely used. Prices of goods may be verbally communicated or written in toman (تومان) (sometimes denoted “T”) instead of in rial. One toman is equal to ten rials. There are no toman notes – prices are quoted as such just as a shortcut. If it is not obvious, be sure to clarify in which currency the price is quoted.

Debit card and ATM
ATMs and merchants in Iran generally do not accept foreign (non-Iranian) cards due to the sanctions, so bring all the money you might need in cash, preferably in US dollars or euros. Debit cards and credit cards issued by an Iranian bank are widely accepted in most places, and most of stores and ticket offices have a point-of-sale machine, without any commission. If you don’t want to carry a lot of cash, and feel panic about so many zeros in the prices, you can apply for a tourism debit card. Iranian banks cannot issue a debit card or tourism debit card to a foreign without a resident card. You should choose a tourism card company which cooperates with a bank to get a debit card.
Daripay: You can receive your card at Imam Khomeini International Airport or any hotels in Tehran. You can convert your euros or dollars in some large cities of Iran, they will send a clerk to you hotel for that. The currency rate is based on the average price of black market which is much better than the official rate.
Mah Card: You can receive your card at Imam Khomeini International Airport or any hotels in Tehran. You can only convert your euros or dollars in Tehran, they will send a clerk to you hotel for that. The currency rate is based on the average price of black market which is much better than the official rate.
Another way to prevent having your money stolen is going to the nearest bank and getting a gift card (Kart-e Hadiyeh کارت هدیه). They are exactly like ordinary ATM debit cards, but once they get empty, they cannot be recharged. The two first ways are more recommended. A list of permitted Iranian banks can be found here. Most of banks now don’t sell the gift card, although there is such restriction as for debit cards that requires a resident card for foreigners to buy gift cards.

Exchanging money
Bills in good condition and large bills (US$100 or €100) tend to be preferred at currency exchange offices. Small denominations can be useful for small purchases before you get to an exchange office, although many exchange shops will not exchange small bills. On arrival at Tehran International Airport, the maximum amount that may be exchanged at night is to €50 per person.
The best places to exchange money are the private exchange offices (sarāfi) scattered around most large cities and major tourist centres. Their rates are usually 20% better than the official rate offered by the banks, they are far quicker and don’t require any paperwork, and unlike their black market colleagues, they can be traced later on if something goes wrong. Exchange offices can be found in major cities, their opening times are usually Sunday to Thursday from 08:00 to 16:00. Most are closed on Fridays and on holidays. There is little point in risking the use of black market moneychangerswho loiter outside of major banks and only offer marginally better rates than the banks.
The most widely-accepted currencies are US dollar and euros. Other major currencies such as the British pound, Australian or Canadian dollars and Japanese yen are accepted at a lot of money changers. Non-major currencies usually cannot be exchanged. US$100 and large euro unfolded notes tend to attract the best exchange rate, and you may be quoted lower rates or turned down for any old or ripped notes or small denomination notes.
Foreign credit cards are only accepted by select stores with foreign bank accounts such as Persian rugs stores but they will almost always charge an additional fee for paying by credit card rather than with cash. Most of these stores will be happy to forward you some cash on your credit card at the same time as your purchase. If you are desperate for cash, you can also try asking these shops to extend you the same favour without buying a rug or souvenir, but expect to pay a fee of around 10%.
Travellers’ cheques: Cashing travellers’ cheques can be hit-or-miss and it is advised not to rely on travellers’ cheques issued by American or European companies.
Prepaid debit cards can be bought at Iranian banks and serve as a good alternative to carrying a large wad of cash around the country. Make sure that the card you buy has ATM withdrawal privileges and be aware of the daily withdrawal limit. The ATM network in Iran is subject to outages so make sure that you withdraw the entire balance well before you leave the country.
Large Iranian banks, like Bank-e Melli-ye Iran (BMI, National Bank of Iran), Bank -e- Sepah, Bank Mellat, Bank-e Saaderaat-e Iran (BSI), Bank-e Paasaargad and Bank-e Saamaan (Saamaan Bank), and Beank-e Paarsiaan all have branches outside the country that can be found at their websites. You can open a bank account abroad before arrival. This might be possible even in some European countries. You can find the addresses of these banks’ websites using famous search engines; then you need to click the link to the English section of their sites which is usually shown using the word English or the abbreviation En.

Bazaars and bargaining. While the shops offer a wide selection of quality goods, local items can be bought in the many bazaars. Purchases include hand-carved, inlaid woodwork, painted and molded copper, carpets, rugs, silks, leather goods, mats, tablecloths, gold, silver, glass, and ceramics. There are restrictions on which items may be taken out of the country and many countries restrict the amount of goods you can bring in due to sanctions.
Bargain ruthlessly when buying handcrafts, rugs or big ticket items and modestly when hailing private taxis. In most other aspects of life prices are fixed.

Tipping. Tipping is generally not expected, but locals will generally round up the bill in taxis and add around 10% in restaurants. Porters and bellboys will expect 5,000 rials. A discreet gift of a few thousand tomāns may help grease the wheels of Iranian society and serve to thank an extraordinarily helpful local.

Foreigner surcharges. You won’t be able to escape the government-sanctioned dual pricing system that applies to accommodation and some tourist attractions in Iran; foreigners often pay up to five times the price quoted to locals. However, prices tend to be very reasonable by Western standards.

CUISINE
Meal times in Iran vary considerably from those in Europe and the US. Lunch can be served from 12:00-15:00. and dinner is often eaten after 20:00. These and other social occasions in Iran are often long, drawn-out affairs conducted in a relatively relaxed tempo, often involving pastries, fruit and possibly nuts. As it is considered rude to refuse what is served, visitors should accept the items offered, even if they do not intend to consume them.
The importation and consumption of alcohol is strictly banned throughout the majority of Iran, but is tolerated in a few rural and poorly regulated areas. Penalties are severe. Registered religious minorities, however, are allowed to manufacture and consume small quantities of alcohol, but not to sell, export or import it. Pork and pork products are forbidden and, like alcohol, their import is illegal, though in practice shops serving the Christian community are allowed to sell pork with no major issues.
The good news for travellers is that Iranian cuisine is superb. A wide range of influences from Central Asia, the Caucasus, Russia, Europe and the Middle East have created a diverse, relatively healthy range of dishes that focus on fresh produce and aromatic herbs. The bad news, however, is that Iranians prefer to eat at home, rather than in restaurants, so decent eateries are scarce and stick to a repetitive selection of dishes (mainly kebabs). An invitation to an Iranian home for dinner will be a definite highlight of your stay. When visiting an Iranian household for the first time or on a special occasion it is customary for Iranians to bring a small gift. Flowers, sweets or pastries are popular gift choices.
Traditional Cuisine
Fragrant rice (برنج, berenj) is the staple of Iranian food. Boiled and then steamed, it is often coloured with saffron or flavoured with a variety of spices. When served plain as an accompaniment it is known as chelo (چلو). The two most common meat and chelo combinations are kebab variations (chelo kabāb, چلو کباب) or rotisserie chicken (chelo morgh, چلو مرغ). Flavoured rice, known as polo, is often served as a main course or as an accompaniment to a meat dish. Examples include shirin polo flavoured with orange zest, young cherries and honey glazed carrots, the broad-bean and herb heavy bāghli polo and sabzi polo laced with parsley, dill and mint. The ubiquitous Persian Kabab is often served with plain rice and sometimes with special (yellow cake) rice called tah-chin.
The rice and kebab dish chelo kabāb (چلو کباب) and its half-dozen variations are the most common (and often the only) items on Iranian restaurant menus. A grilled skewer of meat is served on a bed of fluffy rice, and accompanied by an array of condiments. You can add butter, grilled tomatoes and a sour spice known as somāgh to your rice, while some restaurants also provide a raw egg yolk. Raw onion and fresh basil are used to clear your palate between mouthfuls. Variations in kabāb dishes come from the meats they are served with. You will commonly see:
Kabāb koobideh (كباب كوبيده) – a kebab of minced beef, shredded onion and spices.
Kabāb barg (كباب برگ) – pieces of lamb sometimes marinated in lemon juice and shredded onion.
Joojeh kabāb (جوجه كباب) – a skewer of chicken pieces sometimes marinated in lemon juice and saffron.
Kabāb bakhtiāri (كباب ب‍ختیارِی) – great for the indecisive eater, this is a skewer of alternating chicken and lamb pieces.
At home people most often eat rice with a thick stew (khoresht, خورشت) containing a modest amount of meat. There are dozens of khoresht variations such as the sweet and sour fessenjān made from ground walnuts and pomegranate syrup, most popular ghormeh-sabzi is based on fresh herbs, dried limes and kidney beans, gheimeh flavoured with split-peas and often garnished with French fries.
Hearty Iranian soups (āsh, آش) are meals in themselves. The most popular is the vegetarian āsh reshteh (آش رشته) made from herbs, chickpeas and thick noodles, and garnished with kashk (which looks like yoghurt but is another thing) and fried onions.
Flat bread (nān, نان) is another pillar of Iranian food. It is served at breakfast with herbs, feta cheese and a variety of jams, or as an accompaniment to meals. Sangak (سنگك) is a dimpled variety cooked on a pebbled oven while lavāsh (لواش) is a thin and bland staple .
Many teahouses also serve traditional snacks and light meals. The most common of these is ābgusht (آبگوشت) a hot pot made from lamb, chickpeas and dried limes that is also known as dizi, also the name of the dish in which its served. You will be given a bowl (the dizi) containing the ābgusht and another, smaller one. Drain the broth into the smaller bowl and eat it like a soup with the bread provided. Then pound the remaining meat and vegetables into a paste with the pestle provided and eat with even more bread, pieces raw onion and wads of fresh herbs.
Sweets and Desserts. The never-ending demand for dentists in Iran lies testament to the country’s obsession with sweets and pastries, known collectively as shirini (شیرینی).
Iranian baghlava tends to be harder and more crystalline than its Turkish equivalent while the pistachio noughat called gaz (گز) is an Isfahan speciality. Sohan is a rich pistachio brittle popular in Qom, and freshly-baked pastries are often taken as gifts to people’s houses. Lavāshak fruit leathers are delicious fruit leathers made from dried plums.
Honey-saffron and pistachio are just two local flavours of ice cream, while fāloodeh (فالوده) is a deliciously refreshing sorbet made from rosewater and vermicelli noodles made from starch, served with lashings of lemon juice.

Special needs. Given that most travellers are stuck eating kebabs for much of their trip, vegetarians will have a particularly difficult time in Iran. Most snack shops sell falafels (فلافل) and garden salads (sālād-e-fassl, سالاد فصل) and greengrocers are common. Most āsh varieties are meat-free and filling, as are most variations of kookoo (کوکو), the Iranian take on the frittata. Also some restaurants make spaghetti with soya (soy). You can find pizzas like vegetarian pizza (Pitzā Sabzijāt, پیتزا سبزیجات) or cheese pizza (Pitzā Panir, پیتزا پنیر) or mushroom pizza (Pitzā Ghārch, پیتزا قارچ) almost everywhere and Margherita pizza in some restaurants which all are meat-free. The phrases man giaah-khaar hastam (I am vegetarian) and bedoon-e goosht (without meat) will come in handy.
It’s a safe bet that most food in Iran is halal (حلال, ḥalāl, halaal) and will conform with Islamic dietary laws as specified in the Qur’an, the exceptions being some shops in districts with large Christian communities. However, those seeking a strict kosher diet may have to concentrate their efforts in the districts with higher numbers of Jewish inhabitants. If in Tehran look in areas such as older parts in the south of the city, like Udlajan or the Yusef Abad neighbourhood.

DRINK
Black Tea (chāi, چای) is the national drink of Iran. It is served strong and with crystallised or cubed sugar (ghand, قند) which is held artfully between the teeth while tea is sipped through. You can try asking for milk in your tea, but expect nothing but strange looks or a big delay in return. Tea houses (chāi khāneh, چای خانه) are a favourite local haunt for men (and less commonly families) to drink tea and puff away on a water pipe.
Coffee (ghahveh, قهوه) is not as popular as tea. Where available, it is served Turkish style, French coffee or espresso. Imported instant coffee (nescāfe, نسكافه) and instant Cappuccino are available also. Coffee shops (called “coffeeshop” in Persian, versus “ghaveh-khane” (literally, coffee house) which instead means a tea house) are more popular in affluent and young areas.
Doogh (دوغ) is a sour drink made from yoghurt, salt, and water (sometimes gaseous) and sometimes flavoured with mint or other plants. It takes some getting used to, but will rehydrate you quickly in the heat of Iran’s summer. It is the same as Turkish Ayran. It can be purchased at almost any establishment and is often consumed in the afternoon while eating kababs. It comes in two main varieties fizzy (gaz-daar) and non-fizzy (bigaz).
Alcohol is illegal to drink for Muslims only, and if seen by police may be met with punishment. Therefore, you will rarely find places in Iran that openly sells alcohol. However it is legal for non-Muslims to produce alcohol for their consumption. Drinking is, however, common among some people, especially during parties and weddings, and is officially tolerated for use among the small Christian and Jewish communities but only for religious purposes (e.g., wine for holy communion). There is no legal drinking/purchasing age for non-Muslims. The Iranian Government allows non-Muslims to bring alcoholic beverages into the country.

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodations in Iran range from luxurious, if a little weary, five star hotels (هتل) in major cities to the small, cheap mosāferkhaneh (مسافرخانه) and mehmānpazir (مهماﻧپذیر) guesthouses that are littered about most centres. Moreover, staff in mosāferkhuneh often are so happy to provide room for non-Iranians, as these facilities have a recommendation from local governments to serve all tourists. For longer stays, villas with all facilities (including central air conditioning, pool and Internet connection) can be rented in Tehran and all other major cities at reasonable prices.
A man and woman cannot share the same hotel room unless they can prove their relationship (as a married couple or siblings). Foreign tourists are usually excepted from this law.
Also, you can find traditional hotels in central Iran including Isfahan, Shiraz and in particular Yazd.

STAY SAFE 
WARNING: Iran treats drug offences extremely severely. The death penalty is statutory for those convicted of trafficking or manufacturing of any drug and following a third conviction for drug possession.
Homosexuality is also treated severely if homosexuals show behaviors like kissing and holding hands in public; proven same-sex intercourse for males can carry a death sentence and male homosexuals are executed every year in Iran.
Iran is still a relatively low-crime country, although thefts and muggings have been on the increase in recent years. Keep your wits about you, and take the usual precautions against pickpockets in crowded bazaars and buses.

Iranian traffic is congested and chaotic. Guidelines are lax and rarely followed. Pedestrians are advised to exercise caution when crossing the roads, and even greater care when driving on them – Iranian drivers tend to overtake along pavements and any section of the road where there is space. In general, it is not recommended for inexperienced foreigners to drive in Iran. Watch out for joobs (جوب), the open storm water drains that shoulder every road and are easy to miss when walking in the dark.

Travellers should avoid the southeastern area of Iran, particularly the province of Sistan va Baluchistan. The drug trade thrives based on smuggling heroin from Afghanistan. There is plenty of associated robbery, kidnapping and murder. Some cities, such as Zahedan, Zabol and Mirjaveh are particularly dangerous, although not every place in this region is dangerous. Chahbahar, which is close to the Pakistani border, is a very calm and friendly city.

Iranian perceptions of outsiders. Even though travellers may arrive with the image of a throng chanting “Death to America”, the chances of Westerners facing anti-Western sentiment as a traveller are slim. Even hardline Iranians make a clear distinction between the Western governments they distrust and individual travellers who visit their country. Americans may receive the odd jibe about their government’s policies, but usually nothing more serious than that. However, it is always best to err on the side of caution and avoid politically-oriented conversations, particularly in taxi cabs. In addition, a few Iranian-Americans have been detained and accused of espionage, as were three American hikers in 2009 who allegedly strayed across into Iran from Iraqi Kurdistan. These kind of incidents are rare, but still the broader implications are worth considering and bearing in mind.

Photography. There are a lot of military and other sensitive facilities in Iran. Photography near military and other government installations is strictly prohibited. Any transgression may result in detention and serious criminal charges, including espionage, which can carry the death penalty. Do not photograph any military object, jails, harbours, or telecommunication devices, airports or other objects and facilities which you suspect are military in nature. Be aware that this rule is taken very seriously in Iran.

Women. Female travellers should not encounter any major problems when visiting Iran, but will undoubtedly be the subject of at least some unwanted attention but they should obey local laws. Contrary to popular belief, Iranian women typically differ little from those in the West, although differences may be more prominent in highly religious families. In Tehran and several bigger cities Western clothing and formality is accepted but wearing a hijab may be required in most of rural areas. Women by law must wear a headscarf in public.

Gay and lesbian travellers. Iran is one of the most anti-gay countries in the world: male homosexuality is punishable by death and sex by lesbians is punishable with lashes. These two punishments, in Iran’s judiciary system, are only administered if an act of gay or lesbian sex is proved by means of 4 or more witnesses (although the definition of a witness can be surprisingly broad).
Gay or lesbian couples who travel in Iran should exercise full discretion. Public displays of affection between male or female couples, such as holding hands, arms draped over shoulders and kissing on the cheek might result in harassment by security forces.

Transgender people. Although Iran has very tough legislation against homosexuals, the country is friendly to transgender people and those who are going to change their gender. Iran is the 2nd country in the world by transgender population and medical services are widely available. Also, after official gender changing process you can grant cheap loans for the business or any other purposes, which can be helpful for socialization.

Emergencies
Emergency services are extensive in Iran, and response times are very good compared to other local regions.
local Police control centre, ☏ 110. it is probably easiest to phone 110, as the local police have direct contact with other emergency services, and will probably be the only number with English speaking operators.
Ambulances, ☏ 115.

Obscene gestures
The thumbs up gesture is extremely rude in Iran, roughly equivalent to raising the middle finger in Western countries.
Hitchhiking is rare in Iran, and the country has a good public transportation system. If you do hitchhike, do not use a thumbs up signal. Instead, hold your hand outstretched, palm downwards and, using a stiff arm, move it up and down below the waist in a motion similar to a British driver hand signaling that he is slowing for a pedestrian crossing. Like in Japan, if you are an obvious occidental you are likely to make rapid and friendly progress. Also, be aware that drivers will generally expect to be paid and, unless you are an expert haggler, hitchhiking will often be more expensive than taking a bus.

Religion
Ramadan. Ramadan is the 9th and holiest month in the Islamic calendar and lasts 29–30 days. Muslims fast every day for its duration and most restaurants will be closed until the fast breaks at dusk. Nothing (including water and cigarettes) is supposed to pass through the lips from dawn to sunset. Non-Muslims are exempt from this, but should still refrain from eating or drinking in public as this is considered very impolite. Working hours are decreased as well in the corporate world. Exact dates of Ramadan depend on local astronomical observations and may vary somewhat from country to country. Ramadan concludes with the festival of Eid al-Fitr, which may last several days, usually three in most countries.
Contrary to popular belief, public observance of other religions, except the Baha’i faith and Ahmadiyyah, is officially tolerated in Iran. There is a sizable Christian community, most of whom are ethnic Armenians or Assyrians/Chaldean, and a small Jewish community (which is nevertheless, the largest Jewish community in the Middle East outside Israel). In addition to the Abrahamic faiths, there are also significant numbers of Zoroastrians who are basically free to practise their own religion.
However, this is a fundamentalist Muslim country: do not do or say anything which can be perceived as an insult to Islam. The Islamic dress codes also apply to non-Muslims.

CONNECT
Landline phone. An Iranian phone number is of the form +98-XXX-XXX-XXXX where “98” is the country code for Iran, the next 3 digits (or 2 in the case of Tehran and some big cities) is the area code and the remaining 7 digits (eight in the case of Tehran and some big cities) are the “local” part of the subscriber number that can be called from within that particular area code using abbreviated dialing. You will need to dial “0” in front of the geographic area code from outside that particular area code (but when still within Iran).
Mobile numbers in Iran must always be dialed with all 11 digits (including a “0” prefixing the “9nn” within Iran), no matter where they are being called from. The 9nn is a mobile prefix, not an “area code”, as such and the second and third digits denote the original mobile network assigned.
These are the area codes for major cities: Tehran (021) – Kashan (0361) – Isfahan (031) – Ahwaz (061) – Shiraz (071) – Tabriz (041) – Mashad (051) – Kerman (034) – Gorgan (0171) – Na’in (0323) – Hamadan (081) – Kermanshah (083) – Sari (011)
When making international calls from Iran, the prefix to be dialled prior to country code is 00.
Cell Phone & Sim Card Irancell (MTN), MCI, Iran Taliya and Rightel offer pre-paid SIM cards for international travellers starting at 60,000 rials. It is possible to buy recharge cards from all newsstands and supermarkets for 20,000 rials. GPRS, MMS, and 3G services are also available at very low prices, specially at night, for surfing the web or checking your email. With a copy of the information page of your passport and a copy of the page with Iranian visa and entrance seal, you can buy SIM cards and access the internet with GPRS, EDGE, 3G and 4G technologies. SIM cards are available in places like post and government e-services offices (Persian: singular: Daftar-e Pishkhan-e Khadamat-e Dowlat دفتر پیشخوان خدمات دولت; plural: Dafater-e Pishkhan-e Khadamat-e Dowlat دفاتر پیشخوان خدمات دولت), in big shops and at the Imam Khomeini airport.

Internet. You can readily access WiFi internet services (depending upon network availability) in many areas, and in all provinces.
Some websites, including Facebook and YouTube are blocked in Iran. You can circumvent this by downloading a free proxy app such as Psiphon. You need to use a proxy server, VPN or a software like Freegate to access Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and some websites; otherwise, you might see this page which shows that the site you want to access is filtered and blocked by the judiciary system. You also need to use Freegate to check your bank account balance; otherwise, your account might get blocked due to the sanctions against Iran.