YEMEN – SOCOTRA

Socotra is an archipelago consisting mainly of one large island and three smaller islands in the Indian Ocean, an offshore territory of Yemen, near the “horn” of Somalia. Socotra is 95% of the landmass, 78 miles long and 28 miles north to south. It‘s mainly a limestone plateau with karst topography, surrounded by narrow coastal plains, with gorgeous white sand beaches, rising to the Hajhir Mountains. (1,500 metres).
It is currently governed by the UAE-backed Southern Transitional Council, a secessionist participant in Yemen’s ongoing civil war. While an integrated province of Yemen, Socotra has much in common with the East African islands.
Due to its remarkable biodiversity, with over a third of the local plant species found nowhere else, Socotra has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With over 40,000 inhabitants, though, it’s not just a nature reserve.
The island is new to tourism, so this is not a luxurious vacation. The best accommodation is camping on the beaches.
One can only go to Socrata by tour. They are needed for the visa and to do any travel around the island. They also book the difficult to arrange flight from Abu Dhabi.
Socotra is considered the jewel of biodiversity in the Arabian Sea. Described as the Most Alien-looking Place on Earth or the Arabian Sea’s Galapagos, Socotra is a naturalists’ haven,
A third of the 700 flora species are endemic. The animals and plants that remain represent a degraded fraction of what once existed.’ The first century A.D. Periplus of the Erythraean Sea reported crocodiles and large lizards. Until a few centuries ago, there were rivers and wetlands on the island. Now, the long geological isolation of the Socotra archipelago and its fierce heat and drought have combined to create a ‘unique and spectacular endemic flora, most not found anywhere else in the world.
The endemic fauna, includes six species of birds, such as the Socotra starling and sunbird. There’s only one endemic mammal (a bat), but 31 endemic reptiles (skinks, legless lizards, and one species of chameleon. The plants are endangered by non-native goats and the birds by non-native feral cats.
The interior of the island is dominated by the beautiful and green Hagghier mountains and limestone plateau. On the outer coastline, natural beaches have pure white sand dunes and palm trees. The limestone plateau and the Hagghier Mountains are the richest areas for endemic plant species, but endemics are found throughout the island in every type of vegetation. One of the most famous plants is the dragon’s blood tree “dracaena cinnabara” which exists only on Socotra and nowhere else on the Earth. The tree got its name because if any damage is made to the bark then a dark red liquid oozes out.
There is also the Desert Rose (adenium obesium) which looks like a blooming elephant leg. Also found in Socotra’s landscape is the ever-strange and extremely rare Cucumber Tree. In addition, there are over 120 species of birds and about 190 species of butterflies. There is so much beauty all around the island, it is difficult to not appreciate the magnificent scenery and wildlife.

Visa. All need a Yemeni visa. For Socrata Security Clearance Letter. If Mainland, also need a Ministry of the Interior Letter. Usually provided by the tour company. Only need to supply the bio page of your passport.
Money. Yemeni Rial. The very fluid black rate at 400-1600 to the US$. Bring US$. I didn’t bother exchanging money and didn’t need any. 
Flights 2 X/week. All flights must be booked directly with the airline, not online. I
Phone. Emirates SIM cards have been allowed to work on the island zone: Abu Dhabi replaced Socotra internet and telecom networks with Emirate devices and lines. Since many local people work overseas in the UAE, many work with a +971 code.

Get In
From 1. Abu Dhabi on Air Arabia once a week on Tuesdays at 09:oo or 2. Yemeni Airlines from Cairo, Jeddah, and Djibouti via Aden and Mukalla

Climate is a hot desert climate bordering on semi-desert. The mean temperature is 25 °C but feels much hotter as it’s very humid. Northeast monsoon from October to December. No mosquitoes. In the wet season, it tends to rain at night. Online weather forecasts are inaccurate. Southwest monsoon season (from June to September) brings strong winds and high seas. referred to as the “Sikotro Sinh”. Make the island uncomfortable to walk around, and even some places are inaccessible.
When to go: The monsoon occurs in July till mid-August. Nature enthusiasts should go from early October to late April. Generally, wildlife and natural viewing is best from the end of January through May.
Hadibo, the Capital of Socotra. The north coast capital of Socotra, Hadibo, has a population of about 8,000. And is accessed by some of the few paved roads. There are heaps of rubbish. Rubble. Unfinished buildings. Colourful patterned wrought iron gates. Market stalls with scarlet canopies. And shops where the goods inside are beautifully and colourfully arranged on painted shelves.
The Summerland Hotel is the best hotel on the island – many would say it’s the only hotel on the island. It’s directly opposite the mosque. The rooms are basic, with wooden furniture and clean, There’s hot water if you’re quick and Wi-Fi if you’re the only one using it. The manager is very sweet and tries to find me a better connection via his mobile.
Food. Only one restaurant. Fish, fried potatoes, fried chicken and goat, with lots of rice and beans. It’s tough for vegetarians. Hot sauce to give it some flavour. Good fruit juices. Goats climb up onto the chairs,

The women in Socotra are dressed in black abayas with full niqab. Shy, and very camera averse. The menfolk are the opposite. Most tourists dress fairly modestly though the women wear headscarves when in town.
The buildings are mainly stone, the older village houses are small and lumpy. More modern buildings are rendered. Saudi schools are typically ochre Arab style and UAE buildings are more traditional, but flat-faced stone, plastered with UAE flags.
There are goats everywhere. Millions of them, foraging in the rubbish. They threaten the precious Socotran fauna and hoover up any leftover food. They also enjoy paper apparently, stealing tissues when they can.
Guides
Friends of Yemen. friendsofyemen1@gmail.com. No trips after April
RJ Travel, YPT, Intrepid,

Penguin Travel.com. 180342 WA+45 89 88 36 84  +359 87 959 86 57 ☎ +359 2 400 10 50 / info@penguintravel.com https://apps.penguin.bg/epay/
US$2570 – US$1250 deposit + 1320 by 04/04. Includes all meals, flights from Abu Dhabi and visa. The last payment was made on 4/4/2024.
PCR test before departure
Additional expenses: Tourist tax payable in Hadibo upon arrival: 100 USD. We were not charged this.

Day 1 Tue May 14.
I was up at 03:30 to eat, shower and catch the bus to AUH. Bus 34 to the Main bus terminal, N2 to the airport. I had great help from a Bahrain man also going to the airport. 
Flights. G9476 AUH-SCT @08:55-10:20
Abu Dhabi –  Hadibo – Ayhaft canyon – Delisha sandy beach – Hadibo
Abu Dhabi to Socotra. Tourist tax payable in Hadibo upon arrival: 100 USD. We were not charged this. Hotel, lunch
I was surprised at the rugged mountains that rise just to the north of Hadibo. It was also surprisingly green. Unfortunately, the garbage was terrible.
Delisha Beach. I swam in the warm water. There was minimal surf and it was nice once past the rocks on the shore.
ON Summerland Hotel, Hadibo

Day 2 Wed May 15. Hadibo -– Arher Beach
From Hadibo, we crossed several wadis with palm oasis. They have constructed goat-proof fences of sticks and chicken wire surrounding areas of grass and palms.
Homhil National Park. The drive to Homhil is true 4WD switchbacking up a hogsback to the top. The plants changed from small acacia and desert bush, then many bottle trees, some of them flowering (Desert Rose). There were fewer “cucumber trees, light gray with a more slender “bottle-like” trunk. Dragon’s Blood Trees became more common as we climbed. Frankincense Tree and Desert Rose. Stop at a village and walk about ½ hour down a limestone wadi with pools to a large natural pool. Great swim in the warm water. It is almost an infinity pool with just over the edge, a great viewpoint down to the ocean far below. Sweet little boys were selling dragon blood resin and frankincense.
We returned to the cars for a wonderful lunch under palm trees (fried chicken, veggies, hummus, rice). We returned back the same rough road to the ocean.
Drive first on pavement, then dirt to Arher Beach on the northeast. This is a great place to swim with gorgeous white sand, no surf and a gently sloping beach. I was in the water for the whole hour we were here. A creek with a small waterfall falls onto the sand for a good rinse. A large, covered cistern of water is next to the road. Next to the beach is100+ metre dune and next to a 170 m sand dune, the largest in Socrata. Both dunes climb the very high, steep limestone cliff. It is near the fishing village of Ras Irisseyl,
We then drove another 15 minutes to the easternmost point of Socotra where the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea meet. Compared to the relatively placid Arabian Sea, the breakers were large and the ocean was very dynamic at that point. A huge blue whale vertebrae is a monument on the point. Marik found some lovely cowrie shells. Many large, yellow crabs dug large holes on the beach producing large cones of sand.
Our constant companions at every camp are Egyptian vultures, a medium-sized vulture. They are white and yellow with a scraggly few feathers at the back of their head and a typical carrion-eating beak.
ON. East Point. We decided to camp near the point rather than return to Arher Beach or the formal campsite back in the village. They set up a large sun tent over tables and reclining rests on a carpet. Each of us had our own tent.

Day 3 Thur May 16. Northeast.
Hoq Cave in Terbak village. The cave is three kilometres long, with a water pool. The formations are very mediocre. We were given the option of doing the 2-hour hike up to Hoq Cave. Only Veronica went. When the guide and her returned, he was completely knackered. Veronica did the hike up in one hour (20 minutes down) faster than anyone he had guided in his 100+ times to the cave.
The rest of us went to DIhamri Marine Protected Area with its campground (shady buildings, very hot showers, a shore of great coral and red rock). We rested, played cards, ate, and went snorkelling. The fish were quite nice with several types of parrot fish, needle nose fish and several other species I didn’t recognize. Others have seen moray eel, rays and turtles. The coral was not bleached but also not very colourful.
ON Dihamri Marine Protected Area campground.

Day 4 Fri May 17. Southeast
Momi Plateau. Climb up onto the plateau on a good paved road for the long drive to the Wadi. Frankincense trees, cucumber trees, bottle trees and views down into the wadi.
Wadi of Kalisan. Park on the edge of the wadi using some old rusted shipping containers to provide great shade and a welcome cool breeze. The hike down to the big pool in the wadi takes about 30 minutes. The only steep part is at the top and then follows a very gradual grade as the trail goes upstream. The inner canyon is spectacular with dazzling white 10-metre walls. The water in the 100-metre-long pool was quite cool for a very refreshing swim. Our guide jumped from a 10 m cliff. There is a waterfall at the upstream end but was too far a swim for me.
Bottle Trees. We had a great lunch in the rusted container but the goats were a menace. They walked through, tried to eat out of your bowl and were constantly in the garbage. a local hermit living in a cave.
The road here and down the canyon to the beach had a few sections of 4WD low range.
Daburk Waterfall. No water in the falls so we didn’t see it.
Wadi Defarhu. One of several dry wadis crossed on the way to Omak. Cement roads had been built through the wadis. But there were no culverts and several were eroded and broken up. There were several “wild” camels.
Sand dunes of Hayf and Zahek. A large white sand dune complex.
ON Omak beach. Shelters and showers. A very deep beach with a campsite almost 5 minutes walk to the beach and big dumping surf. Marik went swimming, but I wouldn’t risk it.

Day 5 Sat May 18
Dagub cave. A shallow cave with a broad high roof accessed by a short climb. Unusually, all the speleothems are at the entrance many right at the edge. There are three massive columns, the biggest I have ever seen. There is enough water dripping that I was able to get drenched. Large guano pile so must be bats. Many swallows.
We went to the tiny shop in the village: potatoes, onions, oranges and apples with a scale, 1/3 candy, and 1/3 cleaning products. There were many little boys, all excited to see us> Unfortunately, Sveti bought them candy.
Dixam Plateau. Drive up a good paved road to the plateau. The only trees are Dragon Blood trees – all very large. Veronica and the guide climbed up into one tree to the top and stuck their head out the top for a great picture. Look down into Derhur Canyon, a spectacular canyon with vertical limestone walls.
The road descended a 4WD low-range road to the bottom of the canyon. We had lunch at the bottom.
Firhmin Forest We continued on through the extremely rugged country up another 4WD low-range road on the other side of the canyon back up to the plateau through the forest – the last woodland comprised of Dragon’s Blood trees. There are an amazing number and variety of dragon blood trees. Most have a single straight trunk but a few have many trunks.
The entire western sky became covered in black clouds with rain covering the sharp pinnacle peaks. This was our planned camping spot but our guide thought that if it rained much, we wouldn’t be able to get back on the steep roads. We returned back to the pavement and a village still on the plateau with a campsite.
ON Galalhom village. A great campground.

Day 6 Sun May 19. Northwest
Three guys drove up to the village on one motorcycle with two lobsters to sell.
Soviet tanks. Three rusted-out Soviet tanks are placed facing the ocean surrounded by gravel berms.
We continued along the coast to Qualansiah Village, a large village on the ocean. Pass 4 more Soviet tanks and drive up to a saddle to look down to Detwah Lagoon, a marine protected area with sea birds and marine wildlife. A huge sweeping circle of sand encloses the lagoon. We had the option of walking down the rocky track to the beach and lagoon and meeting for lunch at the campsite on the lagoon. We drove back down to the town and beach with fishing boats and kids. The town was full of women in their black abaya, unmarried girls with white headscarves and hundreds of little kids. Socrata children are lovely – no begging, pleasant kids who wanted to look at us, talk and swim.
ON Detwah Beach.

Day 7 Mon May 20. Immediately after breakfast, we went back to Qalansiah and the beach. We had a great boat ride with three to a boat. There was a large school of spinner dolphins, some leaping and doing acrobatics. They didn’t surf along the bow of the boats. The ride went a long way along the coast west to  Sha’ab Beach. We were offered the chance to get out at the beach but saw no point in it and returned to the town. It was then a long drive back to Hadibo.
The rest of the group went out to dinner with the guides. I was tired of the same food and went across the street and had a shawarma.
In the group, we had two awful Danish women – Danes must be the worst conversationalists in the world. Most Scandinavians don’t like small talk but these two could talk about nothing. They were also very cheap and gave small tips. The rest of us gave US$100 for the great service.
ON Summerland Hotel, Hadibo. Second night here but now knew how to turn on the AC!

Day 8 Tue May 21. Departure Abu Dhabi (AUH)
Flight. G9477 SCT-AUH @11:50-15:05

GET AROUND
There is a public bus from the airport to Hadibo and from Hadibo to Qalansia. Besides these two buses, there is no public transport, but a car rental with a driver is available. There is a lot of walking and hiking along with camelback rides available. 4WD is necessary on this rough and arid terrain. The drivers are also very good-natured cooks, guides, camp attendants, furniture arrangers and general factotums.

DO
Camp: With a bit of water for washing, a good meal and warm sleeping surrounded by virgin nature, camping on the beaches will provide a very special break from the everyday routine in civilization!
Socotra Adventure Tours can carry all the camping equipment and cooking gear or you can opt for any one of the several campsites like Dihamri and Homhil.
Hiking: The Scant, Tinnera, Firmihin, and Dersmotin regions, are the most popular destinations for trekkers. Hiking is for everyone even for those who are less athletic. However, for more difficult and high-altitude trails, it is recommended to be accompanied by a local guide.
Camelback ride: It is an opportunity to get to know and enjoy the spectacular scenery and relax in the rhythm of ancient times. This is more of a less active adventure. The camelback rides provide a more relaxing ride over plateaus and colourful panoramas and mountains.
Surf: Socotra has excellent conditions for surfing. The best time to come for this activity is during the monsoon season from June up to late August. In July the wind speed can reach up to 60 mph and you have to be aware of such conditions. Since the winds can be very rough it is recommended that only experienced surfers participate.
Scuba dive/ Snorkel: Dive into the tropical warm weather filled with coral reefs. Enjoy swimming among the hundreds of species of fish and marine life such as barracudas, monkfish, dolphins, rays and even mantas. Diving for all ages and levels.
Bird-watching tours: This is for anyone who has an interest in birds. Excellent way to view nature and the highly diverse bird population while avoiding harming any wildlife.
Local boat safaris and fishing: Take one of the organized tours and be taken to incomparable destinations. The trip to Shouab Beach is a half-day tour to discover the beauty of this remarkable destination. With the clear water and white sands you can snorkel and relax. While driving the boat, dolphins can be seen swimming right next to the boat.
Also, go on a fascinating fishing experience with some of the locals.
Volcanic caves: Explore the Hoq Cave with its overwhelming beauty and variety of crystal decorations.
Beaches Shouab, Qalansia, Arher, Noget, Amaq among others
Wadis and freshwater pools Homhil, Wadi Dirhir and others

HISTORY 
In ancient times, Yemen was the home of the Sabaeans, a trading state that included parts of modern-day Ethiopia and Eritrea. Islam spread quickly in the seventh century, but only on the mainland. In 1507 the Portuguese fleet commanded by Tristão da Cunha, with Afonso de Albuquerque, landed on Socotra, captured some land and attempted to set up a base on the strategic route to India. But they abandoned the attempt four years later for lack of a decent harbour and infertile land.
The Mahra sultans took control of Socotra in 1511, and the inhabitants were (mostly) converted to Islam during their rule. In 1834, the East India Company stationed a garrison on Socotra and flirted with the idea of buying the island. But the sultan, to their astonishment refused and they encountered, in any case, the same problems that had been faced by the Portuguese. They centred their efforts on Aden instead.
Yemen was divided between the Ottoman and British empires in the 1800s and in 1876, in exchange for a payment of 3,000 thalers and a yearly subsidy, the Sultan of Socotra was persuaded to pledge ‘himself, his heirs and successors, never to cede, to sell, to mortgage, or otherwise give for occupation, save to the British Government, the Island of Socotra or any of its dependencies.”
The Zaydi Mutawakkilite Kingdom of Yemen was established after World War I, leading to the creation of the Yemen Arab Republic in 1962. However, South Yemen, including Socotra, remained under British control, as the Aden Protectorate until 1967. It then became, first, an independent state with the Mahra sultanate abolished. Next, as a Marxist-Leninist state, the South Yemeni government allowed the Soviet Navy to use the Socotra archipelago as a supply and supporting base for its operations in the Indian Ocean from 1971 to the late 1980s. (Lines of Russian tanks rust along the shores as a testament to these times). Eventually, the two Yemeni states united to form the modern Republic of Yemen in 1990.
Turmoil in Yemen. Since 2011, Yemen has been in a state of civil war and violence, first instigated by street protests against poverty and unemployment and now a focus for Middle Eastern geopolitics. Iran backs the Houthi rebels and the Saudi Arabians have intervened, aiming to restore President Hadi’s government. Consequently, Yemen is currently thought to be the country with the most people in need of humanitarian aid, about 24 million people, or 85% of its population. As a result of the civil war, the island of Socotra became economically isolated. Fuel prices especially, spiked, causing residents to turn to wood for heat, exacerbating deforestation even further.

ACCOMMODATION
There are four hotels in Hadibo: Taj Socotra Hotel, Hafijj Hotel, Socotra Hotel, and Summerland Hotel. These hotels may not be the most luxurious, but they do provide air-conditioning, televisions, and refrigerators in all of the rooms. Most of the rooms at these hotels have their own bathroom, but there are a few rooms at the Hafijj Hotel and Socotra Hotel that must share bathrooms. There is a restaurant in each of the hotels with simple yet delicious cuisine. Considering Socotra is a fairly new eco-tourism destination, their facilities are decent. In addition, there is another hotel at the airport and several guest houses around the island.
The most popular lodging is camping on the beaches. Several campsites allow tourists to barbeque on the beach with beautiful mountain views in the background. Tourists can choose to purchase camping tour packages which include a driver or guide that will show tourists around the beaches as well as provide meals during their stay. It is a fantastic way to enjoy the beauty and wildlife of the island.
Hotel Bahamid, +966 59 529 2959, on the waterfront in Hadibu
Taj Socotra Tourist Hotel, +967 5 660 626, on the western edge of Hadibu

STAY SAFE
Malaria is not common, but malaria prophylaxis is recommended. Cholera is not on the island at all.
The hospitals offer less than adequate service, but pharmacies are located around Hadibo.
Most Western governments advise against all travel to Yemen, including Socotra.
Sheikh Khalifa Hospital, Hadibu.