South Sudan had been home of semi-nomadic cattle herding peoples for most of its history. Its formal ownership has changed hands from the Egyptians, Ottomans, British and Sudanese. After half a century of ethno-religious conflict and a long war in which over 1 million people were killed, South Sudan legally seceded from Sudan on 9 July 2011. Relations between the two Sudans remain tense. Sudan depends on hard currency obtained from trans shipping oil from South Sudan through Port Sudan on the Red Sea, while the landlocked South Sudan depends on access to that port, and the two countries have argued about terms for transshipment. There has also been some armed conflict over the oil-rich Abyei District which is ruled by Sudan but borders on South Sudan, and the Sudan People’s Liberation Army – North, which fought alongside the Sudan People’s Liberation Army that now rules South Sudan.
Safety. The civil war lasted in Juba from 2013 to March 2020, and although there have been no clashes between the warring factions in Juba since, there is a lot of tension. The number of expats, prevalence of weapons and willingness to use violence cause a high risk to visitors. There are frequent armed robberies, car-jackings and armed break-ins affecting foreign nationals. The South Sudanese security forces are often tense, some are very young and/or under the influence of alcohol.
The UN maintains a curfew and all travel during darkness should be avoided. Some areas of the city are distinctly unsafe, e.g. Rock City. Traffic is chaotic and boda-bodas are often involved in accidents. Stay away from official convoys. The South Sudanese military (SPLA) drive not only aggressively but offensively. They believe they have the right of way, drive extremely fast and do not care about any traffic regulations.
Outside of Juba, South Sudan remains dangerous for travel as ceasefire violations and boundary disputes have continued. Travel near the Sudan or Central African Republic borders is extremely dangerous. Violent crime remains problematic; unexploded ordnance from years of civil war also poses hazards to civilians.
Western governments continue to advise citizens to avoid all travel (or leave South Sudan if already in the country) due to ongoing armed conflicts, inter-ethnic violence and widespread violent crime. As of April 29th, 2020, South Sudanese leaders have negotiated a peace deal, which was agreed on. However, all travellers visiting South Sudan should still be extremely cautious as kidnappings, shootings, and carjackings can happen at anytime, including Juba. In addition, the peace deal can be broken at any time by the involved warring factions and fighting could resume at any moment.
UNDERSTAND
Capital: Juba
Visa. Citizens of Botswana, Burundi, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda are eligible to obtain a visa on arrival costing between $50 and $100 USD.
All other visitors must obtain a visa. Two options 1. from one of the South Sudan diplomatic missions before departure. The visa is needed to board an aircraft to South Sudan, and costs $100 USD. The embassy in Nairobi is also a popular place to get a visa.
Entry Permit. Visa on arrival with an entry permit supplied by tour company. The entry permits are processed one month ahead as they are valid for one month only. It is compulsory to have a printed copy of the entry permit to enter the plane. The permits will be scanned and sent in electronic form. Print it and bring the hard copy with you to Juba. Immigration officials in Juba will need to verify it before they issue you a visa. At the airport, you have to go into a side office, pay the $100, then queue up with the receipt at a separate desk for the actual visa.
Once in South Sudan, foreign visitors must register their presence in the country within 72 hours of arrival, pay necessary fee, get another stamp in your passport and get a separate clearance letter and then show both when exiting the country.
Photography Permit. Luggage inspected at airport for cameras.
Currency: South Sudanese pound (SSP). Everywhere will accept Sudanese pounds, even if prices are quoted in US dollars – and you can change British pounds and Ugandan shillings at the Kenya Commercial Bank in town for rates in line with those in Khartoum (and, oddly, at better rates than those quoted on www.xe.com)
ATM machines do not work for international cards so must bring all money as cash.
Population: 12.5 million
Country Code: +211. Roaming with foreign phones/SIM cards does not usually work and you will need to purchase a SIM card from Zain or MTN using an unlocked phone.
People. South Sudan has more than 60 indigenous peoples. The Dinka comprise 40% of the population. South Sudanese culture varies by ethnicity. Zande, a Bantu people, will have very different language, legend and dance from the Shilluk, a Nilotic people.
Language. English and Arabic (Juba Arabic) are the official languages of South Sudan, although Dinka is the most widely spoken language.
Climate. South Sudan’s climate is similar to an equatorial or tropical climate, and has a rainy season from May to November of high humidity and large amounts of rainfall followed by a drier season.
TRAVEL IN SOUTH SUDAN
History. The Europeans (Greeks were here first but eventually the British) came to Africa at the same time as Islam. The British made South Sudan a closed district as early as the 1930s and a special permit to enter South Sudan was needed and Muslims couldn’t enter. Only a few missionaries were allowed and only Juba saw foreigners.
This means that South Sudan is not impacted by modern culture, schooling etc. 80% of the people are involved in cattle herding. People are still naked and don’t care who is looking at them. The culture is unique and you can still find more authenticity in S Sudan than probably anywhere else. Can see a camp where they use cow urine to dye their hair. I don’t think there is another country that is so unique, with very different tribes.
The Masaai in Kenya – for tourists, it is all acting – the people are very clean, after the ‘show’ they put on their trousers etc.
National Parks. Seven but need to be developed properly. Can see all the so-called ‘Big 5’ though the most common are different types of antelopes. Only Nimule National Park, near the border with Uganda, is operational in a formal way.
Things are quite basic. There is usually no hotel, and use tents.
TOURS
Government tariff/travel permit of $150 per day, Permits cost $150 a day, but there is no development or good game parks. The tour companies are the ones promoting the tribes.
Photography Permit. Required in Juba but everyone is still afraid of taking photos. The authorities need to be calmer. May not be able to visit some sites even with permits or special documents directly from the president.
Donations to Chief of cattle camp. As of November 2019, tourists were being asked to pay $100-150 per person as a compulsory donation to the chief. Previously visitors brought medicines for the cattle, rice, medical supplies and other similar items. It varies with the camp and will determine which camps are visited. It is anticipated the price will rise until visitors stop coming. They look at tourists as though we all have unlimited funds.
Metro Tours is main tour company with 2 owner/guides Fedrick Pitia and Mayom Bul.
Native Eyes/Britain/EU
1. October 2020 EPS Trip Oct 30-Nov 1, 2020. Guide Mayom Bul of Metro Safaris.
$650 + visa on arrival ($100 eu/$160 us). Price includes photo permits, breakfasts, entry and other necessary permits, all transfers and guides, hotels, water.
Organized by Andrew Moyes (6 in group in March). Dinka come closer to Juba around this time making day tours available. Mundari are too far and requires overnights etc costing $$. Spending one full day with Mundari will require 4 days
Day 1: Arrival in Juba and visiting Konyo Konyo market to see scarification tribes, Shirikat for Dinka cultural activities such as wrestling and traditional dancing. Juba Bridge and the Nile.
Day 2: Visit a cattle camp outside Juba before lunch. Although predominantly Dinka, it also has people from different tribes – Toposa and Mundari. The camp does not portray the pure culture seen with the tribes due to its proximity with the city and is just a glance at tribal culture. It is however the closest thing related to tribal cultures one can see in the city. To see Mundari or Dinka in their camps for in-depth culture, we will have to draft a different 4-day itinerary that is definitely more expensive.
Sightseeing in Juba: Presidential Palace’s (J1), Dr. John Garand de Mabior Mausoleum, Jubek’s Tomb in old Juba Town. Other Nomad Mania sites: All Saints Cathedral and Equatoria Tower.
Day 3: Climbing (hiking) Jebel Kujur (Mountain of witchcraft) and a local craft market. Depart.
I am presently registered in this trip (but have not paid). It is a rather disappointing trip and basically only sees Juba which is not very interesting. Only real purpose is getting a passport stamp.
2. Mundayi Cattle Camp Tours
In addition to $150/day permit fee, $100 per day goes to the vehicle, fuel, the driver who cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner and did everything else. Hotel costs depend on if bush camping.
Metro Tours 4-day Tour (Oct 2019) $1500 + $100 visa + gifts for my Mundari hosts + tips for guide and driver (2-day/1 night Mundari tour for 950$).
Day 1: Quick City Tour and 3-hr Drive to Terekeka (approx. 75 miles north).Taken to Da Vinci’s for lunch but mainly caters for expats and foreign visitors, views of the White Nile River. Ask to be taken to a local restaurant or at the city market where can also shop for gifts (cooking oil, sugar, coffee beans, dried ginger, rice) for Mundari hosts. Crashed a Lotuko tribal wedding party. In Terekeka, stayed overnight at Fedrick’s beht (family compound) where meet his mother, uncle, siblings, nieces, nephews and the rest of his extended family.
Day 2: Tour of Terekeka on the Nile River and Drive to Tukoro Village. After hanging with his family during breakfast, Fedrick gave me a tour of his hometown where he knew everyone. At the market, I met his uncle Sallah Modi, a tailor, who quickly sewed a Mundari outfit for me, a gift. While in Terekeka, we spent a couple of hours at the admin offices to obtain a special visitors permit for Terekeka county. I met the mayor, a few government officials and officers of the S Sudan Police, National Security and the SPLA (Sudan People’s Liberation Army) who greeted me with such warmth. After getting the permit, we drove about 30 miles further north to Tukoro village where we attended a Mundari church event and bushcamped with a Mundari clan. At sunset, we visited a cattle camp owned by one of Fedrick’s friend Mabil.
Day 3: Drive Back to Terekeka. At sunrise, return to the same cattle camp with Mabil to do various activities with Mundari women. Mundari wrestling event in another village where wrestlers from different clans competed. We stayed another night at Fedrick’s beht and his family.
Day 4: Drive Back to Juba and Airport. Early start. We made a quick stop at another cattle camp along the way close to Juba where tourists usually go. More tour of Juba. Airport a long, slow queue to check in. Buy wifi access $2 for 1 hour.
Note that more recent tours did not have that “custom experience”. Sleep in tents with foam mattresses by the camp. Three hot meals served a day by our own cook, buy our food in advance .
The Mundari are busy at dusk and dawn with the cattle in the camp and this is the best time to take photos. In the morning the heavily weaponed shepherds are swimming with all the cattle through the big river to reach the pastures while the women collect the cows’ shit of the night, people are washing their hair with cows‘ pee, boys are blowing air into cows‘ asses to give more milk, later boys are scratching the scrotums of the elders (probably to clean them from insects). They are out grazing the cattle (and sheep and goats) between 11am to 5pm.
The livestock can be randomly noisy at night, so ear plugs may be good for light sleepers. No power so bring battery chargers. No toilets for the three days but the bush.
3. 28-day Tour. Visit 8 tribes and several national parks.
• Mundari tribe near Juba, and spend a night or two at the camp near Tereketa.
• Bor Dinka cattle camps – this is Mayom’s tribe. Stay in Bor hotel with showers.
• Sudd. Large area of wetlands and waterways north of Bor, with large variety of fish, hippos, crocodiles, antelopes and unique birds. Visit the unique fishermen in the waterways, sleep near the fisherman villages by the marshland.
Return to Juba and head east towards the Ethiopian and Kenyan borders.
• Torit. First civil war started there in 1955 and ended in 1972 with the Addis Ababa agreement. There are some barracks and cemeteries to see.
• Latuko tribe, who live on the hills for their own security
• Boya/Larim tribe two hours away. Interesting hut architecture, drawings on their bodies and wear unique beads.
• Toposa tribe near the Kenyan border who wear animal skins, own dances, very good marksmen and reputation as being rather lawless.
• Boma National Park and Murle tribe – farmers and interestingly socialize based on age groups, not family groups, with every age group given a certain colour of beads. Those born at the same time are ‘family’. They remove a tooth as a sign of initiation into adulthood. Known for child abduction from other tribes.
• There are some areas where we still don’t go for many reasons, mainly as they are still not entirely safe. The Malakal area and Shilluk tribe, one of two tribes that are kingdoms. There is no road to get there and it would be expensive to charter a plane. Also the Nuer tribe.
REGIONS & Cities
Since South Sudan is located near the Equator in the tropics, much of its landscape consists of tropical rainforest. South Sudan also has extensive swamp and grassland regions. The White Nile, a main tributary of the Nile River, passes through the country. The highest point in South Sudan is Kinyeti at 10,456 feet (3,187 m).
Equatoria. Entire south half of country containing Juba. Borders CAR, DRC, Uganda Kenya, and Ethiopia.
Juba – the capital (see below).
Nimule. Angels of East Africa orphanage (as featured in the film Machine Gun Preacher), located in Nimule.
Nimule National Park. Near the border with Uganda. Wildlife safaris. Only national park that is operational in a formal way.
Bandinglio National Park
Bahr el Ghazal. Northwest area bordering Sudan and CAR.
Aweil
Wau
Rumbek. Freedom Square
Southern National Park
Greater Upper Nile. Northeast province bordering Sudan and Ethiopia.
Bentiu
Malakal. Has country’s second international airport with flights from Addis Ababa, Khartoum and Juba. Cheap and easy on a motorboat from Juba for 6 days and nights of very remote and uncomfortable travel; highly advisable to bring a mosquito net, something to sleep on, bottled water, food and medical supplies.
Boma National Park. Safaris wildlife.
GET IN
By plane. Most airlines flying into Juba depart from Cairo (Egypt), Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), Entebbe (Uganda) or Nairobi (Kenya) Khartoum (Sudan) to/from where you should be able to manage flights to Europe, Asia or the Americas. Flydubai has regular flights from Dubai to Juba.
GET AROUND
The roads in South Sudan range from bad to non-existent; and during the rainy season, all roads to Malakal become unusable for ordinary vehicles. However, they are slowly being repaired, especially the one towards the Ethiopian border. Need helicopters to offer really good tours, for example of the herd migrations, but there are no commercial helicopters available in South Sudan.
By car. South Sudan has a rainy season which lasts from May to November. The rainy season massively limits roads and other transportation due to South Sudan’s roads being dirt tracks and in the rainy season, they turn into mud tracks. The only paved roads South Sudan has are in major cities like Juba and Rumbek. The 190kms from Nimule on the Ugandan Border to Juba has recently been paved. Work is underway to upgrade the road from Juba to Bor.
CUISINE
Da Vinci – This is a restaurant with views of Nile River catering to expats. There is a friendly monkey and lots of lizards zooming through. They also serve crocodile meat.
Lily’s – They serve oriental food and you can even buy a shake. This is just adjacent to their grocery. You can use USD to buy groceries and they will give you SSP as change, black market rate. Probably best avoided as not very authentic. Best in eat in the markets.
Nimule – Restaurant by the swimming pool
Drink. In the towns of South Sudan such as Rumbek and Juba, Kenyan and Ugandan beers are starting to appear in bars at inflated cross-border prices. In Renk, you can even buy Red Horse, a Filipino beer!
Fresh fruit juices are available throughout Sudan. One of the local juices is “aradeab”(tamarind).
The cloves-flavoured tea (chai) is very good. Outside the capital, you’ll pay usually 10 SSP for one cup. Also the ginger-flavoured coffee is to be tried. In Renk, one cup of this is 100SSP. Both are very sweet, so if you don’t want sugar or you want it separately, mention this when you order.
STAY SAFE
Health
Prepare for malarial, yellow fever, polio and hepatitis A and B. Be sure to sleep under a mosquito net and use mosquito repellent. Most of the South Sudanese drink water from the rivers, which exposes them to diarrhea and cholera. If bottled water is not available, boil/chlorinate the river water before drinking it.
Juba is a sprawling, fast growing city and capital of the newly formed country of South Sudan. Juba is on the White Nile river. The town is quite spread out in to 3 distinct areas – Juba Town, Government ministries, and the Nile camps – and it’s a long, hot, dusty walk between the three. Boda bodas (motorbike taxis) run during the day. Traffic is chaotic and it is recommended to stay clear of boda bodas as the accident rate is very high.
Travel by foot is OK during daytime but after dark you must use a car. There are very few street lights and even fewer street sign and foot paths are non-existent, making travel by foot a risky proposition.
Always drive with all doors locked. The roads are mostly unsealed, but you can get by in a saloon – although after a heavy rain it’s 4×4 only. However, the roads are improving rapidly with much grading and tarring going on.
A really great map of Juba town is available in Jit Supermarket. Google maps on your smart phone gives excellent coverage of streets in Juba.
Other than flying, it is quite difficult to get out of Juba without your own transport (hired vehicles come with a driver who is instructed not to leave Juba). Even walking out of town into the countryside is difficult – the semi-rural sprawl of Juba extends for miles of shacks and squatter housing (even on the eastern side of the Nile). Lots of paths out of town end up at one of the many army camps – who are not keen on trespassers! And of course landmines are still a risk.
Radio broadcasts are available from BBC World Service in English on 88.2MHz and Arabic on 90.0MHz.
Premium Taxi, Airport Road, ☎ +211 956 100 000. Safest way to travel.
Wiltins Transporters, MTC Centre, ☎ +211 955 104 240. 4-Wheel drives to get you through the muddy roads. Rates are attractive: Drivers are experienced and friendly.
Do. Plan to entertain yourself. There’s not much going on in town. Expat overload with Kenyans, Ugandans and hundreds of westerners supporting many bars, restaurants and nightspots. There is something going on most weekends. You can also take a boat trip on the Nile, go fishing, go jogging, and there’s a Hash House Harriers in Juba.
Bahr El Jebel Safaris, Hai Ghabat on banks of River Nile near old WFP offices (safari company to all parks and tribal villages), (southsudansafaris@yahoo.com), [3].
Buy. Everything is trucked in from Uganda, hence things are expensive – 30% – 100% more than in Kampala. The Customs Market is the prime shopping area. The air conditioned JIT supermarket sells alcohol. Roots Project, Nimra Talata (behind basketball court) is a new coop for women to make and sell traditional handicrafts, including beading.
Eat. The Village and Da Vinci camp are battling over who cooks the best pizza. Rock City for the views over Juba.
Spice ‘n Herbs – Indian & Chinese Cuisine
Notos Lounge Bar & Grill – A smart restaurant with outdoor seating
Logali House, Hai Amarat. Serves good food 7 days a week. BBQ on Friday nights. Menu changes daily, and includes burgers, excellent curries, steaks, salads etc. Great internet
Home and Away, Value Thai and Asian US$20.
Juba Bridge Hotel. Excellent Eritrean food on the Nile. Food delectable.
Kator, Excellent South Sudanese food – Nile tilapia, foul (beans mixed with tomatoes and white/feta cheese), spicy beef liver and fresh tomatoes in a peanut oil sauce.
Drink. A cold beer is easy to find in Juba, in strong contrast to the North. Fresh Freddies – is best bar.
NOMAD MANIA South Sudan – Equatoria (Juba)
Tentative WHS: Boma-Badingilo Migratory Landscape (Contiguous site)
Borders
Central African Republic-South Sudan
Congo Democratic Republic-South Sudan
Ethiopia-South Sudan
Kenya-South Sudan
South Sudan-Uganda
XL: Elemi Triangle
World of Nature
Bandingilo
Lantoto
Nimule
Festivals
Festival of Fashion and Arts for Peace
Juba Film Festival
African Cities
NIMULE
YEI
JUBA World Capitals, World Cities and Popular Towns
Airports: Juba (JUB)
Religious Temples: All Saints Cathedral
Modern Architecture Buildings: Equatoria Tower
Markets: Juba markets
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NOMAD MANIA South Sudan – Upper Nile (Malakal)
Tentative WHS
Boma-Badingilo Migratory Landscape (Contiguous site)
Sudd wetland
Borders: Ethiopia-South Sudan
XL: Extreme North (Ar-Rank)
World of Nature
Boma
Ez Zeraf Game Reserve
The Dark Side: Lukangol
African Cities
MALAKAL
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NOMAD MANIA South Sudan – Bahr el Ghazal (Ramciel)
Tentative WHS: Deim Zubeir – Slave route site
Borders: Central African Republic-South Sudan
XL
Abyei
Radom National Park areas (extreme west)
African Cities
AWEIL
GOGRIAL
WAU
World of Nature
Ashana Game Reserve
Shambe
