This natural arch of quartzite rock spans a knife-edge ridge line in the Egyptian group of peaks, the most prominent of which is Mt Amen-Ra. It is about 700m south of Mt Isis (9250′) at 8300′ elevation. It seems unlikely that it is the largest arch in the world. The authority is the Natural Arches & Bridges Society – from photographs, the estimate was 110 feet.
It is visible only from the west side of Monica Meadows as the south ridge of Mt Amen-Ra separates the basin at the base of the arch from Monica Meadows and you have to be far enough back (ie west) to see over that ridge. Often the arch just peaks over it through a low point.
It is important to differentiate arches from bridges – bridges are formed by flowing water and arches aren’t. Because of this, it is difficult for arches to be as big as bridges and the three largest bridges (not arches and all in China) are longer than 100m. See Largest Bridges & Arches in the World.
The other thing about this is its incredible location sitting on top of a knife ridge. The rock forming the arch is quartzite, not sandstone like all other large arches.
Location: On a high knife-edge ridge on the east side of Monica Meadows. 50°23’34.38″N, 116°38’29.16″W. On the 082K/7 Duncan Lake (1:50,000) NTS map with NAD 27, the Arch is located at grid reference: 255-820. This is about 700m south of Mt. Isis and about 350m NNW of the little lake located in the basin SE of the arch.
Difficulty: B4. Easy 3-hour hike. 7-pitch 5.7 rock climb to access arch.
Elevation Gain: 610m 2000′
Key Elevations: Trailhead Monica Meadows 6300′. Campground in Monica Meadows 6400′. Basin and lakes under arch 7200′. Arch 8300′
Distance:
Time:
Season: July to September
Access: 4WD high clearance
Map: 82K/7 Duncan Lake
FA Kirk Meuthner (Invermere) Approach from Jumbo FSR on east side.
Drive: Follow the driving instructions for Monica Meadows.
An alternate, much shorter route that may no longer be possible is to access the East Kootenay and the Jumbo Creek FSR that terminates directly east of the arch. This is the route taken on the FA.
Route/Trail: The adventure is detailed in an article in the Canadian Alpine Journal by Vince Hempsall, editor of Kootenay Mountain Culture.
For the KMC article, see https://mountainculturegroup.
The name of the climb Grizzly Groove honours the Ktunaxa nation who refer to this Jumbo-Toby Creek watershed area as Qat’muk, a sacred place where the Grizzly Bear Spirit is born, where it celebrates in ceremonial dances, and where it eventually dies.
Route/Trail: From the Monica Meadows parking lot it is 45 minutes on the trail until it flattens at the campsite. Descend southeast over bogs and streams aiming for a talus field. Follow the talus heading northeast. Climb to the couloir to access the next drainage. From the top, you’ll see the arch and the lake at the base of it. This was a surprisingly easy three-hour hike.
From the lake closest to the arch, hike up the talus, make the awkward move past the bollard and cautiously step through loose gravel and stones to reach the main corner that leads to the arch. The rock in the corner is too chossy to climb but there’s good quality rock on the slab about five metres to the climber’s left. Start there.
Climb:
Grizzly Groove, AD, 5.7, 300m (7 pitches), gear to 3”.
FA: J. Caton, S. Ogle, V. Hempsall, July 26, 2017
Gear: 1 full set of Black Diamond camalots from 0.2” to 3” plus doubles of a #1 and #2. Gear belays. Two 60-metre ropes and webbing are necessary for rappels.
P1. 5.7, 45m: There are many loose rocks at the base of the route as well as spread throughout different sections so tread lightly and be aware of your rope. Start 4 metres to the left of the main corner and climb the low-angle slab to a large ledge.
P2: 5.5, 60m: Continue up the slab, placing small pieces in discontinuous cracks to a small stance.
P3: 5.5, 60m: Same as above.
P4: 5.7, 60m: The wall steepens slightly here. Continue up and then veer right to a stance about 20m under the south side of the arch.
P5: 5.7, 20m: Move up through the large loose blocks to a stance beside a triangle-shaped horn on the north side of the arch.
P6: 5.7, 60m: Step right, then downclimb three metres before traversing right and into a dihedral. Place gear then continue up and right to another fist-sized corner crack. Follow this to its termination then step left into easy terrain to the top. The quality of rock on this pitch is spectacular and the jamming is excellent.
P7: If you’re so inclined, climb onto the top of the arch. From a spot about 10m down the east side of the main ridge make an awkward move over a chasm onto the arch proper and climb the easy terrain (5.7) making sure to go over the large boulder feature rather than around it. Descend the way you came to the main ridge.
Descent: There’s a small tree one metre below the main ridge that’s northwest of the north side of the arch. Using two 60m ropes, lower off that to another larger tree about 38 metres directly below. From there do another ~35m rappel, trending skier’s right, to a slung horn. From that station keep lowering the skier’s right for about 55m to a large group of trees. The next rap is a full 60m and deposits you on the large ledge where your first anchor was located. There’s a two-nut anchor there and another 55m rap takes you to near the base of the route. (Be careful of loose rock.) One more 20m rap off an anchor left behind made of two stoppers and a #1 cam leaves you at the top of the snow field. (We rappelled off a snow bollard at the peak of the snow field to avoid hiking down the slippery slope. A 60m rap landed us about 20m above the rock talus.)
By Vince Hempsall, the online editor for Mountain Culture Group and the managing editor of Kootenay Mountain Culture Magazine. Vince has written many great articles about the West Kootenay adventure mountaineering. I thank him for his contribution to adventure writing in the WK. See articles located in other posts “13 Peaks Mulvey Basin“, “Traverse of the Valhallas in One Day” and “Traverse of the Purcells” (over 25 days).
