EGYPT – Rough Guide

Egypt (officially, the Arab Republic of Egypt) is a transcontinental country in North Africa and the Middle East with its capital located in its largest city, Cairo. Egypt also extends into Asia by virtue of holding the Sinai Peninsula. Egypt is bordered by Israel and the Gaza Strip to the north-east, by Sudan to the south and by Libya to the west. The country is bounded by the Mediterranean and Red Seas (to the north and east respectively) and geographically dominated both by the Nile River and its fertile well-watered valley, and by the Eastern and Western deserts.
Egypt is perhaps best known as the home of the ancient Egyptian civilization, with its temples, hieroglyphs, mummies, and – visible above all – its pyramids. Less well-known is Egypt’s medieval heritage, courtesy of Coptic Christianity and Islam – ancient churches, monasteries and mosques punctuate the Egyptian landscape. Egypt stimulates the imagination of western tourists like few other countries and is probably one of the most popular tourist destinations world-wide.

Understand. Ever since the 2011 revolution, tourism (which provides about 15% of employment in Egypt, so one-sixth of the population are reliant upon it) has taken a major hit. Because of the downturn in tourism, expect more persistent and aggressive touts, but prices are lower and you can avoid the gigantic crowds that, at other periods, were typically overflowing the marvellous sites.
The more recent counter-revolution and Military putsch, like many events of its sort, has brought repression, death sentences and imprisonment for many Egyptians (and foreign journalists) but has resulted in lower crime and reduced disruption for well-heeled foreign tourists.

HISTORY
The regularity and richness of the annual Nile River flood, coupled with semi-isolation provided by deserts to the east and west, allowed for the development of one of the world’s great civilizations. A unified kingdom arose around 3200 BC and a series of dynasties ruled in Egypt for the next three millennia. The last native dynasty fell to the Persians in 341 BC, who in turn were replaced by the Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines.
It was the Arabs who introduced Islam and the Arabic language in the 7th century and who ruled for the next six centuries. A local military caste, the Mamluks, took control about 1250 and continued to govern after the conquest of Egypt by the Ottoman Turks in 1517. Following the completion of the Suez Canal in 1869, Egypt became an important world transportation hub, but also fell heavily into debt. Ostensibly to protect its investments, Britain seized control of Egypt’s government in 1882, but nominal allegiance to the Ottoman Empire continued until 1914. Partially independent from the UK in 1922, Egypt acquired full sovereignty following World War II. The completion of the Aswan High Dam in 1971 and the resultant Lake Nasser have altered the time-honoured place of the Nile River in agriculture and the ecology of Egypt. A rapidly growing population (the largest in the Arab world), limited arable land, and dependence on the Nile all continue to overtax resources and stress society. The government has struggled to prepare the economy for the new millennium through economic reform and massive investment in communications and physical infrastructure.

Climate. Egypt is largely a desert, an extension of the great Sahara that bands North Africa. Save for the thin strip of watered land along the Nile River broadening into the Nile delta, very little could survive here. As the ancient Greek historian Herodotus stated: “Egypt is the gift of the Nile”.
Generally, the summers are hot and dry and the winters, moderate. November through March are definitely the most comfortable months for travel in Egypt. There is almost no rain in the Nile valley.
Terrain. Egypt consists of a vast desert plateau interrupted by the Nile valley and delta, along with the Sinai peninsula.
Portions of the Nile River valley are bounded by steep rocky cliffs, while the banks are relatively flat in other areas, allowing for agricultural production.

REGIONS
Lower Egypt containing the northern Nile delta, and the Mediterranean coast; Cairo, Alexandria
Middle Egypt the area along the Nile where the historical Upper and Lower kingdoms met
Upper Egypt a string of amazing temple towns located on the southern stretch of the Nile
Western Desert five pockets of green, each with their own unique attractions
Red Sea Coast Luxury beach resorts, diving and marine life
Sinai Rugged and fascinating relics of the past, high mountains and great scuba diving

CITIES
Cairo – the capital of Egypt, home to the Giza Pyramids, the Egyptian Museum and fabulous Islamic architecture
Alexandria – Egypt’s window on the Mediterranean, with still-palpable glimpses of the past
Port Said – Egypt’s third largest city, has a cosmopolitan heritage, bordering the Mediterranean, home to the Lighthouse of Port Said
Aswan – a more relaxed option, full of amazing sights
Luxor – gateway to the Valley of the Kings, amongst other fabulous attractions , Claim as oldest continuously inhabited city in the world
Hurghada – a town on the Red Sea, filled with all-inclusive resorts and diving
Other destinations:
Abu Simbel – a very remote town in the far south, with some beautiful ancient temples
Dahab – backpacker central, with excellent scuba diving
Karnak – scattered temples built with an emphasis on size, an impressive avenue of ram-headed sphinxes runs through the middle
Memphis & Saqqara – both filled with relics and ruins of ancient Egypt, they’re often combined as a day trip from Cairo
Nuweiba – small village with a number of camps, eco lodge and basic accommodation styled hotels
Sharm el-Sheikh – a hugely popular resort town on the Sinai peninsula, with some of the best scuba diving in the world
Siwa – a stunning remote oasis near the Libyan border
St. Katherine home to the oldest continually inhabited monastery, Mount Sinai and Mount Katherine (highest mountain in Egypt) and truly Bedouin culture
Taba Heights – purpose built resort with views of Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia|Valley of the Kings

GET IN
Visa. Citizens of many countries may obtain a one-month single entry visa on arrival at major points of entry. A USD25 fee paid in US dollars and in the exact amount

GET AROUND
By train. Egyptian National Railways.On ENR trains, a First Class ticket costs only a few dollars more than a Second class ticket and you will find it much more pleasant and comfortable. Second Class will more than suffice for many. The air conditioning tends to be very cold in first and second class, especially during the summer. Buy at railway stations’ booking offices or through a travel agency.
Overnight trains from Cairo to Luxor and Aswan, in Upper Egypt are run by a separate private company called Abela Egypt.
By bus. Road accidents are very common in Egypt, mainly due to poor roads, dangerous driving and non-enforcement of traffic laws.
By car. Until recently it was unheard of renting car and self drive in Egypt. However now you can rent a car. Though quite expensive, you can rent Dacia (Renault) Logan in good condition and roam freely from the coast to Nile valley. Roads are in quite good condition, but some stretches are bumpy and potholes are frequent.
In some parts gas stations are almost nonexistent, so fill up before heading to the desert. Eastern desert roads from Luxor to Aswan, and from Aswan to Abu Simbel are OK and fast, comparing to driving along Nile with all the traffic.
Major sights (Karnak, Abu Simbel, Valley of Kings) have huge parking lots, however they are not ready for tourists coming independently, and might not let you in the parking lot (despite it being almost empty), probably thinking you are taxi and taxis are not allowed to park there.

SEE
Highlights of any visit to Egypt include famous archaeological sites from both Lower (North) and Upper (South) Egypt. The most famous are:
Cairo: the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum, the pyramids and temples of Saqqara and Dahshur and the collapsed Pyramid of Meidum, Citadel of Salah El Din, Mosque of Mohamed Ali
Alexandria: with several historical sights and the stunning new Bibliotheca Alexandrina, is the country’s main summer attraction for Egyptians escaping the summer heat and looking for a place to spend the summer vacation. Tourist attractions include Roman and Greek monuments, Bibliotheca Alexandria, Qa’edbay’s Castle, and Qasr El Montaza (El Montaza Palace).
Ain Sokhna: A line of mountains and calm beautiful beaches for miles and a range of hotels to satisfy various budgets 90 min drive from Cairo.
Port Said: is one of the country’s main summer resorts for Egyptians escaping the summer heat shopping free trade zone, Tourist attractions include the unique buildings of the city which back to the 19th century and the old lighthouse of Port Said which was the first building built in the world using reinforced concrete.
Luxor: the temples of Luxor and the West Bank across the Nile, the Valley of the Kings, the Temples of Abu Simbel
Aswan: More temples and ancient monuments. Geziret El Nabatat (The Island of Plants). This is an island in the Nile River of Aswan which was planted by rare species of plants, trees, and flowers.
Nile Cruise on a ship from Aswan to Luxor. Stop at each location along the Nile where you can see all the famous ancient monuments as well as experience being in the Nile River inside a five-star hotel boat.
Red Sea: The Red Sea resorts at Sinai peninsula, including Dahab, Hurghada, and Sharm El Sheikh. The Red Sea offers some of the best dive locations in the world.
Sharm El Sheikh: Diving, snorkelling and safari. Ras Mohammed, Cairo, Luxor and St. Catherine Monastery.
Sinai peninsula: including Saint Catherine’s Monastery and Mount Sinai.
Western Desert and the oases there, including Siwa,
Memphis, with some relics of ancient Egypt – including a huge statue of Ramesses II, evoking the image which inspired Percy Bysshe Shelley’s poem Ozymandias
Dahshur Pyramids, Dahshur. Although the pyramids of Dahshur are far less famous and popular of these of Giza, they are never less charming. Dahshur was a very important burial site that mainly belonged to King Senfru, the father of King Cheops, and the first builder of a proper pyramid in Egypt. During the period of reign, in the middle of the 25th century BC, King Senfru thought of building the first real pyramid of Egypt, which does not consist of layers positioned on the top of each other. His first attempt was in Meidum, an area located to the East of the city of Fayoum.

DO
There is a lot to do for the foreign traveller in Egypt. Apart from visiting and seeing the ancient temples and artefacts of ancient Egypt, there is also much to see within each city – its own history, culture, activities, and people who often differ in nature from people of other parts of Egypt.
Cairo, for instance has so much to do and see. Besides the ancient Egyptian history, there is the history of Romans, Greeks, Byzantine Empire, Islamic empire, Ottomans, and finally modern Egyptian history.
Jewish and Christian History To see more about Egypt’s Christian and Jewish history, go to a local tourist office and ask them to give you names of local Churches and Jewish Synagogues. There is at least two Jewish synagogues dating back many years ago, when Egypt had a population of a few hundred-thousand Jews in the country, who eventually left during the formation of Israel.
There is a lot of old and interesting Churches to see in different areas of Cairo, including downtown Cairo, Heliopolis, Korba, Shubra, Abbasiya, Zamalek, and Maadi. Some of these churches have been around for several hundred years and their architecture resemble that of Churches in Western countries, often built by Europeans who built much of the city’s architecture in the 19th century as a resemblance to modern buildings of Europe at the time.
Modern Cairo. If you want to see modern Cairo, try walking in the streets of Zamalek, Maadi, Mohandiseen, or Heliopolis where you will see some of the more modern buildings and get to experience the way of life in Egypt.
Cairo Tower is the tallest building in Egypt, and you can go up the tower and have a nice dinner with a full view of Cairo from above. There are telescopes which enable you to see magnified sections of city in more detail and allows the traveller to see much of the city in a short amount of time.
Local Cafes/Coffeeshops and Restaurants. For social times, try sitting in one of the local cafes restaurants where you can meet and interact with fellow Egyptians. There are numerous coffeeshops/cafes and restaurants all over Cairo all catering for different tastes and backgrounds and range from the very budget to the very expensive.
Sporting and Recreational Clubs: If the heat is too much, you can go to one of the famous sporting clubs such as the Gezira Club located in Zamalek, or the Seid Club (otherwise known in English as the Shooting Club) located in Mohandiseen, where you can have a dip at the swimming pool or otherwise enjoy sitting in the shade and comfort of lush trees and gardens. Entrance for foreigners can be gained by buying a one-day ticket for 150 Egyptian pounds which enables the person to enjoy all the facilities of club including playing any sports. There are of course changing facilities and restaurants inside the club where one can enjoy a meal or a drink after engaging in any activity.
Nightlife: If you enjoy nightlife, there is quite a few nightclubs and discos where you can drink and dance to some of the most modern tunes in the west as well as listen to some Arabic music. The music varies from Dance and Trance to Hip Hop, Rap, Techno, as well as Rock and Pop. These clubs are usually located inside five-star hotels or at areas such as Mohandiseen and Zamalek. Examples include: The Cairo Jazz Club (mohandiseen) Purple (on a boat in Zamalek) Hard Rock Cafe (inside the grand hay-at Hotel in Garden City) L’Obergine (pub and bar in Zamalek)
Desert Adventures: For other adventures, try going to the Haram District of Cairo. There, you can walk around or hire a vehicle out in the desert by the pyramids and the Sphinx. The best time to do this is at night when you can see all the stars shining together in the sky and capture the magical feeling of the place.
Nile Boat: Try renting out a Feluca boat (small boat that can carry up to 20 individuals) in the Nile of Cairo. There you can experience the beauty of the Nile and the surround scenery, where you can see the city and its buildings and streets from within the water around. Depending on the weather, you can do this either day or night, but you will need to go to the Giza District and walk along the corniche area of the Nile and ask any of the locals for renting this boat.
Islamic Cairo/Fatimid Cairo: For those interested in the Islamic architecture and history, try going to Islamic Cairo, (el Gamalaya district or Khan El Khalili. There you will see numerous buildings and some mosques and see how buildings and houses were built in the Islamic Era of Egypt. There is also a souk (or bazaar) where you can buy lots of different souvenirs and items.

Alexandria. Since Alexandria was founded in 332/31 BC by Alexander the Great “the pearl of the Mediterranean” has been one of the major sites of Egyptian history. After the death of the Macedonian king the city developed under the Ptolemies into the intellectual and cultural centre of the entire Hellenistic world. Great scholars lived and worked in the Museion
Diving: Variety from shallow reefs, walls, drift dives, coral gardens, crystal clear waters, many species of sharks (even whale sharks) and some of the most famous wrecks in the world. Sharm El Sheikh and Ras Mohammed, diving in The Gubal Strait, the wrecks at the Strait of Tiran, reef diving in Hurghada and Marsa Alam, the Abu Nuhas wreck system, and pelagic encounters at Brother Islands.

MONEY. The local currency is the Egyptian pound (EGP), which is divided into 100 piastres. (The currency is often written as LE, (short for French livre égyptienne) or by using the pound sign £ with or without additional letters: E£ and £E.
Hoard your small bills! Egypt has a perpetual shortage of small bills and change: even banks are reluctant to break too many bills. Vendors will also perpetually say they don’t have change and want small bills. Hoard your small bills as much as you can, be prepared to make bank runs for change, and break your bills in the easiest situations such as large supermarkets.
Black Market Money. The Egyptian pound has been devaluing gradually over the last several decades. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Egyptian pound was rated almost the same as the British pound sterling. Since 2011, the exchange rate has become relatively unstable and inflation sped up. As of 2013, the Egyptian pound is worth about 11 times less than at its peak.
As of late 2016 the Central Bank has attempted to fix the value of the Egyptian Pound to the US dollar at a rate of EGP1:USD17.7. This has led to a shortage of foreign exchange and as of December 2014 a black market in foreign currency. Dollars attract the greatest premium. Generally high street foreign exchange offices will offer the black market rate – the rates they publish are to a large extent fictional.
Exchanging money and banks. Use exchange offices or banks, not dodgy street money changers. Don’t use ATMs or banks if black market money. The same would apply to credit cards.
Debit and credit cards are generally not accepted except in hotels and large supermarkets, as well as shopping malls targeted at foreigners.
Tipping. Small bill tipping encouraged as people generally poor and tipping is a significant part of their income.
Scams. A common scam of vendors, ticket sellers, taxi drivers etc. will try is to claim that you only gave him a 10LE note, when you actually gave him a 100LE note – this can lead to a heated argument – best to treat it as an ‘honest mistake’ so that the vendor does not lose face, then suggest that the police or tourist police can help. As a general rule whenever giving over large bills say out loud their value so both you and the vendor know the value of the notes.
Shopping. In Egypt, prices are often increased for foreigners, so if you see a price on a price tag, it may be wise to learn the local Eastern Arabic numerals:

Alcohol. Religiously forbidden but relaxed and pragmatic view – tolerated by the vast majority of Egyptians and consumed by a sizable number of them.
Accommodation. Egypt has a full range of accommodation options, from basic backpacker hostels to five-star resorts.

STAY SAFE
Scams. Travellers often complain about being scammed in Egypt and, overall, scams are the main concern. Basically, if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Egyptians demand money for absolutely everything. If you let yourself be bugged by everyone trying to sell you something, your holiday won’t be a very happy one.
While irritating, most of this is harmless attempts to lure you into a papyrus or perfume shop. They start a conversation – “do you remember me? I work in your hotel and saw you this morning””, a cup of tea at his favourite souvenir shop, befriend you, be a guide, bring you back to their place for dinner, and then they will demand money for it. If you are hassled, say la shukran (no thanks) or halass (enough). They may also lead you to a shop or restaurant where he gets commissions. More annoying are taxi drivers who get commission from hotels they drop you off at. Just ask to be dropped off at a street or landmark close to the place you are heading to. Touts will tell you to put money into a donation box in a mosque claiming that it will help the neighbourhood that recently had an earthquake. Egypt has generally been a safe country to travel to, people are friendly and willing to help. Just ignore all these guys.
Terrorism. The odds of being affected by terrorism are statistically low and any shady areas may have extra security. There are also many patrolling police officers armed with AK-47s riding on camels in the Giza plateau.
Crime. Pickpocketing is a problem in Egypt’s bigger cities, particularly Cairo. Violent crime is rare and you may get support of local pedestrians by shouting “Harami” (Criminal).
Animal cruelty. Found horrific abuse of horses and camels

STAY HEALTHY
Schistosomiasis (also known as bilharzia), a flatworm that burrows through the skin, do not swim in the Nile or venture into any other Egyptian waterways, even if the locals are doing so. It is also a good idea not to walk in bare feet on freshly-watered lawns for the same reason.
Symptoms include fever, diarrhea, abdominal pain and fatigue, making the disease easy to mistake for the flu or food poisoning, but the flatworm eggs can be identified with a stool test and the disease can usually be cured with a single dose of Praziquantel.

RESPECT
Tipping. Egyptian workers expect tips after performing a service, known as Baksheesh. This can be expected for something as little as pressing the button in the elevator. Many workers will even ask you to tip them before you get a chance. The typical tip for minor services is 50pt to 1 LE. Due to the general shortage of small change, you may be forced to give 5 LE to do simple things like use the bathroom. Just understand that this is part of the culture.
Religion. Never discuss religion from an atheistic or similar point of view. Even highly educated Egyptians who studied abroad won’t appreciate it and doors will close for you.
Politics. Do not elicit any conversations about politics, but don’t be afraid to partake if a local you are speaking with (typically a middle-class and well educated shopkeeper) begins a rant about his hatred for the current administration (for whom they blame, rightly or wrongly, for the drop in tourism and economic loss). This will be a common theme that you’ll find many of the friendly locals go into, but certainly you don’t want to be seen as a foreigner coming in to insult their government with knowledge of only what you hear in the media.
Dress. Egyptians are generally a conservative people and many are religious and dress very conservatively. Although they accommodate foreigners being dressed a lot more skimpily, it is prudent not dress provocatively, if only to avoid having people stare at you. It is best to wear pants or jeans instead of shorts as only tourists wear these.
At the Giza Pyramids and other such places during the hot summer months, short sleeve tops and even sleeveless tops are acceptable for women (especially when traveling with a tour group). Though you should carry a scarf or something to cover up more while traveling to/from the tourist destination.
Women should cover their arms and legs if travelling alone, and covering your hair may help to keep away unwanted attention. Though as a foreigner, you may get plenty of attention no matter what you wear, mainly including people staring at you along with some verbal harassment which you can try to ignore.