Suriname is a small republic with a thoroughly multi-ethnic culture, a colourful blend of indigenous Indian traditions and those of its former Dutch colonisers and the African, Javanese and Hindustani workers they once brought with them. It’s a country with a fabulous and largely untouched Amazon inland, slowly discovering its chances as an ecotourism destination. Dutch travellers have long been drawn to this friendly, tropical country.
Formerly called Dutch Guiana, Suriname is tucked in between French Guiana in the east and Guyana (formerly British Guiana) in the west. In the south the country is bordered by Brazil and in the north by the Atlantic Ocean. At just under 165,000 km2, Suriname is the smallest sovereign state in South America. It had 576,000 inhabitants in 2018, half of whom lived in the exuberant capital, Paramaribo.
History. Dutch from the province of Zeeland in the Netherlands colonized Suriname in the 17th century but periods of British administration did not finally cease until 1816. Fort Zeelandia was once the main stronghold of the Dutch colonial forces in the region. The colony was mainly used for sugar, coffee and cocoa plantations where many African slaves were worked to death.
In 1863 slavery came to an end and contract workers were recruited from British India (until 1916) and Java (until 1936). Many stayed after their contract had ended.
Independence from the Netherlands was granted in 1975 and to retain their Dutch nationality many Surinamese left for the Netherlands. Five years later the civilian government was replaced by a military regime that soon declared a socialist republic characterized by a high level of government corruption and the summary executions of political opponents. It continued to rule through a succession of nominally civilian administrations until 1987, when international pressure finally forced a democratic election. In 1989, the military overthrew the civilian government again, but a democratically-elected government returned to power in 1991.
People. Due to its colonial past, the country has an ethnically diverse population with Hindus from the Indian subcontinent comprising the largest percentage at 27%, followed by Creoles with 18%, and Maroons and Javanese each with 15%. The remaining 25% consist of Moksi (people of mixed ethnicity), Chinese, Jews, Lebanese, Brazilians and white Europeans. Suriname is known for its tolerance.
Climate. Tropical rainy climate, hot and humid. It has two rainy seasons per year: long from late April to mid-August and short from mid-December to mid-February – usually heavy tropical showers in the afternoon. The temperature is about 30°C but in the dry period from mid-August to mid-December it can rise to 35-40°C. Humidity is about 80% year-round and can exacerbate temperature extremes. It feels clammy and sticky.
Terrain. Mostly rolling hills, rising towards a maximum of around 1,000 m in the south; narrow coastal plain with mangrove swamps. 80% tropical rain forest with a great diversity of flora and fauna that is in excellent condition, although increasingly threatened by new development, logging and gold mining. Suriname is crossed by numerous rivers. Major rivers are the Maroni (border river with French Guiana), Suriname, the Commewijne (running from east to west), the Coppename, the Tapanahony (tributary of the Maroni), the Saramacca and the Corentyne, which forms the border with Guyana. By heavy rainfall rivers burst their banks which can result in heavy floodings. In southern Suriname are mountain ranges. These include the Oranjegebergte, Van Asch van Wijckgebergte, Wilhelminagebergte, Eilerts de Haangebergte, Grensgebergte and the Toemoek-Hoemakgebergte. With 1,280 m, Julianatop is the highest point of Suriname.
Money
Costs: Accommodation and food is relatively cheap. Retail prices for clothing, gifts, etc, are similar to the US. Things which are well worth buying are handcrafted jewellry, woodcarvings and art. Paying by credit card in shops, hotels and restaurants is highly uncommon. Expect 2-6% extra charge.
Suriname dollar SRD, freely convertible (but nearly impossible to get rid of outside Suriname.
Prices of tours, hotels and fancier restaurants are mostly in euros or dollars, which are then converted into SRD according to the current exchange rate. Thus it can be convenient to bring EUR or USD cash reserves along.
Food. Because of the ethnic diversity there is a variety of exotic food available. Indian (specially roti with chicken), Chinese, Javanese (Indonesian), Creole. The regional version of chicken masala, served with roti, is one of the most popular dishes in the country.
Fruit juices – passion fruit or soursap, better known as Guanábana (locally known as ‘zuurzak’). Lassi.
Sleep. There are several good hostels and guest-houses available in Paramaribo and Nickerie.
Health. If you plan a jungle-trip, take precautions against malaria, depending on the area you are planning to visit (although since 2005 there have not been any cases of malaria reported in Suriname). Dengue, also spread by mosquitoes, is a bigger threat.
Tap water is drinkable in Paramaribo but not elsewhere.
Yellow fever vaccination is recommended (and is required to get into Brazil afterwards!) Tetanus-diphtheria vaccination is recommended. Hepatitis A vaccination is recommended.
Talk. Dutch is the official language of Suriname and English is widely spoken.
GET IN
Visa. Most visa free travel or visa on arrival for €35, or at (cash payments in EUR or USD only!) 90 days
By plane Johan Adolf Pengel International Airport (PBM) located 45 km south of Paramaribo.
Amsterdam daily KLM, Surinam Airways also offers flights from Amsterdam and various parts of the Caribbean destinations.
Caribbean Airlines, with a stopover in Trinidad, Brazil (Belem), and Curacao.
Bus from Albina (bordering French Guiana) to Paramaribo.
From Georgetown, take mini bus #63a to Molson Creek in eastern Guyana just across the river from Suriname, 3h. 11:00 daily ferry across the river to South Drain, 30 minutes.
Get around. Since not many tourists visit Suriname and the inner-land is not within easy reach, expenses of travel are higher than you might expect, more expensive than in Europe or the United States.
SEE
PARAMARIBO
Historic Inner City of Paramaribo. World Heritage Sites. The spacious, tree-lined street plan was laid out by the first Dutch governor in the 17th century. Most of the mansions originate from the first half of the 19th century however, as they had to be rebuilt after large city fires in 1821 and 1832. The designs are clearly inspired by Dutch architecture of the time, but incorporated a range of indigenous techniques and used local materials. The Waterkant and Mr.Lim A Postraat have some of the best examples. Many of the wooden houses are in dire need of restoration, however, to the point where UNESCO has urged the state to address the problem and threatened to revoke the city’s status.
Like a large village community with few real landmarks and sights.
Waterkant, the water side street with its old wooden, colonial houses
Central Market and gaze at the Jules Wijdenboschbrug.
Fort Zeelandia, through the Palm tree garden and the Independence square.
Roman Catholic Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral, the largest wooden building in South America.
Het Koto Museum, Het Rumhuis, Surinaams Museum
Fort Zeelandia. The English laid the first foundations for the current brick fort around 1650, replacing an earlier wooden French structure built on an even earlier Dutch trading post. In 1667, the Peace of Breda gave Suriname to the Dutch for New York and the fort was renamed Zeelandia. It was built as a colonial stronghold for the Dutch, and later served as an army barrack and a prison. In 1982, Fort Zeelandia was the scene of the so-called December murders, as fifteen prominent Surinamese men who had criticized the then military dictatorship ruling Suriname were tortured here and then shot dead. The events remain controversial today, as the circumstances are still unclear, but the current president of Suriname is the main suspect. In 1995 the restored buildings were opened to the public as a museum.
Arya Dewaker Hindu Temple
Mosque Keizerstraat
St. Peter and Paul Cathedral. Roman Catholic cathedral is one of the biggest wooden structures on the entire American continent. Building started in 1883 and the church was consecrated two years later. The towers were not finished before 1901 though, and the characteristic yellow and grey painting of the outside was done only in 1926. The design of the church was inspired by the Redemptorist church in Roosendaal and the (then new) Basilica and Shrine of Our Lady of Perpetual Help in Boston, while the interior, carried out in unpainted cedar wood, was a Surinamese design. Poor restoration efforts were undertaken in the late 1970s, leaving the building in need of new repairs shortly after. Finally, termite damage and severe tilting led to the closure of the cathedral in 1989 for safety reasons. The Vatican provided some funds for initial repairs in the mid 1990s and after fundraising efforts and a large EU grant, thorough restorations were carried out between 2007 and 2010. The cathedral was re-opened for the public in that year. Only the large organ, of which most of the pipes had been stolen, is still a work in progress.
Suriname Museum covers the different cultures of Suriname, the colonial period, 20th century art, a library collection and a photo archive. A statue of Queen Wilhelmina is on the waterfront, looking over the Suriname River.
Numismatic Museum. Highlight of this small museum is a 1679 copper Parrot coin. Part of the Bank of Suriname, and it’s housed in one of the nice colonial building. It holds almost every legal currency used in Suriname since the late 17th century. Free.
Onafhankelijkheidsplein (Independence Square) and Presidential Palace. The square is the heart of Paramaribo surrounded by important buildings like the Presidential Palace, Court of Justice, the Parliament. It’s used as a place for festivals like Carisfesta XI in 2013. Normally there’s not much activity, but on Sundays men exercise the national hobby: letting their caged birds sing.
Palmentuin (Palm Gardens) (Behind the presidential palace is now a small play ground now, some statues and benches to hang out on.
Paramaribo Zoo Starting in 2003 restored mostly regional species, among which are many indigenous monkeys, jaguars, caimans, many tropical birds and a petting zoo.
Goslar. Just in the middle of Suriname River you’ll see a rusty little island, actually a ship wreck. A German steamship was sunk by its own crew in an attempt to block the harbour. They succeeded in sinking the ship but they failed in blocking the harbour which was important for transporting alum sand for the production of bauxite. For decades a controversy has been going on about whether it has to be preserved as a tourist attraction or should be removed.
Neve Shalom Synagogue. The Jewish community in Paramaribo is reputed to be the oldest continuing Jewish community in the Americas and the current wooden Neve Shalom (Hebrew: בית הכנסת נווה שלום; literally “Oasis of Peace” or “Valley of Peace”) synagogue dates from 1835 and replaced the building constructed in 1719 by Ashkenazi Jews. The original Jewish settlers were descendants of Jews fleeing persecution by the Spanish Inquisition in Holland, Portugal and Italy and came here via Brazil. Just one of the unique features of this Synagogue is its floor of sand rather than boards or tiles. This floor is supposed to be both a reminder of the 40 years in the desert that the Hebrews were forced to endure after their exodus from Egypt, and the times that marranos had to muffle their prayers and footsteps with sand so as not to be discovered by the Inquisition and put to death. There are several beautiful Torahs that are hundreds of years old and the carved woodwork exhibits fine craftsmanship.
Walk to the Keizerstraat where a mosque and a synagogue are built adjacent to each other. Not far from this place are also a Catholic church and a Hindu temple.
Waterkant, share a djogo (1 litre) Parbo, the national beer, and enjoy the sunset.
Flea market on Sunday
Javanese Market
Central Market, Waterkant. 05:00-17:00 daily. A large market with over 3,000 stalls inside a hall at the Waterkant. It’s a colourful, buzzing place with smells and sounds to perceive deficit. They offer fresh fish (delivered directly by fishermen), vegetables, fruit and meat. On the first floor are non-perishables sold as clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils and more. Many market vendors, especially the Maroon people, strongly object to having their pictures taken.
Flower expo at the Letitia Vriesdelaan every other Sunday – orchids, cacti, and other plants.
Blauwgrond quarter. On this former plantation live Javanese people. Sit down at a warung (Javanese for small restaurant or shop) and try one of the lovely dishes.
Weg naar Zee (Road to the Sea) which is a Hindustani open air cremation site north of the Kwattaweg. You’re permitted to attend a ceremony. Nearby is a pilgrimage sanctuary.
Thalia theater (Surinamese theater company founded in 1837 and is the oldest theater company of the Caribbean. Building was opened in 1840, 2011 renovation it now seats 500.
Neotropical Butterfly Park
Javanese Immigration Monument
Mahatma Gandhi statue
Nieuw Amsterdam
Fort Nieuw-Amsterdam
Suriname-Rivier Maritime Museum
OUTSIDE PARAMARIBO
With almost a third national reserves, Suriname’s main tourist attraction are its vast natural lands and the diversity of flora and fauna in them.
Amazon rain forests. The inland Amazon region and almost entirely covered with tropical rainforest. In the southwest is the Sipaliwini savanna area. In the centre and south are mountain ranges, but the highest peak, the Julianatop, is only 1,280 m high. Most Amerindians and Maroons live in this region, many of them in a traditional way. The Brokopondo Reservoir is one of the largest reservoirs in the world.
Central Suriname Nature Reserve – one of the most remote, ancient, and pristine wildernesses on Earth. The most popular, home to the Raleigh waterfalls and Mount Voltzberg.
Brownsberg Nature Park – A nature park close to Paramaribo home to one of the largest man-made lakes in the world: the Brokopondo Reservoir.
Raleighvallen Nature Reserve – An extensive set of rapids in the upper Coppename River
Flora and fauna. Leatherback turtles lay their eggs on the beach at Galibi. Other species in Suriname include the endangered and protected jaguar, sloth, giant anteater, cayman, squirrel and howler monkeys, tapirs and the scarlet ibis (especially in Bigi Pan in the Nickerie district. In 2005 Suriname hit world news when 25 new species were discovered in Eastern Suriname.
Bigi Pan Nature Reserve – A large area of open water, mudflats and mangrove forest influenced by the ocean tides where salt seawater, as well as fresh inland water, alternately streams in and out. 72 bird species breeding here: rare scarlet ibis. Herons, ospreys, storks, flamingos and terns feed themselves with fish, frogs, crustaceans and insects in competition with caymans.
Galibi nature reserve – Beaches of Galibi and Albina where leatherback sea turtles lay their eggs. East Coast Former colonial plantations nearby. River dolphins
Nature Resort Kabalebo – Flora and fauna in the untouched nature of the splendid Amazon rain forest
Nieuw Nickerie – Most western city protected by a sea wall
Upper Suriname – Authentic Maroon villages along the Upper Suriname River
Santigron – A Maroon village along the Saramacca river
Tonka Island to see the ecotourism project of Saramaccaner Maroons.
Marowijne River boat trip to see Maroon and Amerindian villages are found deep in the forests, but many of them also lie on the riverbanks. French Guyana just on the other side,
Former plantations for coffee and sugar. Can bike to visit former plantations with names like Einde Rust (End of Rest), Worsteling Jacobs (Struggle Jacobs), Zorgvliet and Zeldenrust (Rarely Rest). Also Plantation Frederiks Dorp and Old plantations in Commewijne, the best place to visit plantations as they were once
Swimming in Cola Creek, a black water (Blaka Watra) recreational park some 50 km from Paramaribo in the midst of the savannah and popular with Suriname families.
Jodensavanne (Jews savanna), where the Sephardic Jews were allowed to settle in the 17th century. Now, only ruins.
DO
Carnival (Feb) – Colourful carnival parades.
Kaseko music in the Indo-Caribbean tradition. Kaseko’s a fusion of many styles and folklore from Europe, Africa, and the Americas that is rhythmically complex.
Avondvierdaagse (Apr) – Walking and dancing four days long in the streets of Paramaribo starting at 17:00. It meanders through the various neighbourhoods, each with its own characteristics, varies and holds a different surprise every day
Bodo (End of the Javanese fasting period) – Bodo is the Javanese name of the Eid al-Fitr (Sugar Feast) festival in Suriname.
Divali – This Hindu festival of light is a national day in Suriname since 2010
Jaran Kepang – Jaran Kepang is a traditional Javanese dance accompanied by gamelan music.
Keti Koti (Sranantongo creole for “the chains are cut”) is marked on 1 July. This day is also known as (Prisiri) Maspasi, meaning “Emancipation (Festival)”. (Although slavery had been abolished by the British during their early 1800s re-occupation, the Netherlands re-introduced it to Suriname in 1817, only to “abolish” it 46 years later in 1863. Slaves did not become fully free until 1873, after a mandatory 10 year transition period during which time slaves were required to work on the plantations for minimal pay and without state sanctioned torture.)
Winti Pré – This Creole worship is a dance ritual for gods and ghosts.
Suriname – North (Paramaribo, Brokopondo, Albina)
NOMAD MANIA Suriname – North (Paramaribo, Brokopondo, Albina)
World Heritage Sites: Historic Inner City of Paramaribo
Tentative WHS: The settlement of Joden Savanne and Cassipora cemetery (30/06/1998)
Islands
Ile Portal
Papegaaien Island
Borders: Suriname (sea border/port/river)
XL: Kwana island
World of Nature
Bigi Pan Park
Brownsberg Nature Park
Coppename Nature Preserve
Galibi Nature Reserve
Wia-Wia Nature Preserve
Lakes: Brokopondo Reservoir
Rivers
Maroni/Marowijne River
Saramacca River
Festivals
Pagara Estafette
Suriname Jazz Festival
Monuments: Marienburg: Indonesian arrival monument
Waterfalls: Blanche Marie Falls
Cities of the Americas
PARAMARIBO World Capital, World CitY and Popular Town
World Heritage Sites: Historic Inner City of Paramaribo
Airports
Paramaribo – Johan Adolf Pengel (PBM)
Paramaribo – Zorg en Hoop (ORG)
Museums
Het Koto Museum
Het Rumhuis
Surinaams Museum
House Museums/Plantations: Plantation Frederiks Dorp
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Fort Zeelandia
Religious Temples
Arya Dewaker Hindu Temple
Mosque Keizerstraat
Neveh Shalom Synaogue
St. Peter & Paul’s Cathedral
Zoos: Neotropical Butterfly Park
Markets: Javanese Market
Monuments
Javanese Immigration Monument
Mahatma Gandhi statue
NIEUW AMSTERDAM
Castles, Palaces, Forts: Nieuw Amsterdam: Fort Nieuw-Amsterdam
Maritime/Ship Museums: Nieuw Amsterdam: Suriname-Rivier
Open-Air Museums: Fort Nieuw-Amsterdam
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Suriname – South (Sipaliwini)
NOMAD MANIA Suriname – South (Sipaliwini)
World Heritage Sites: Central Suriname Nature Reserve
Museums: Mantenga: Guava Gallery
World of Nature
Central Suriname Nature Reserve
Eilerts De Haan Nature Preserve
Raleigh Vallen Nature Preserve
Sipaliwini Savanna Nature Preserve
Rivers
Courantyne/Corantijn River
Litanie/Itany River
Maroni/Marowijne River
Saramacca River
Suriname River
