INDIA – ASSAM – Rough Guide

Assam is one of the seven Northeastern states, a land of blue hills, green valleys and a red river. Situated just below the eastern Himalayan foothills, it is surrounded by the states of Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Tripura and Meghalaya, which together with Assam are known collectively as the seven sisters.
With an area of 78,438 square kilometres, Assam is almost equivalent to the size of Ireland or Austria. Assam shares international borders with Bhutan and Bangladesh and the international borders of China and Myanmar are within 80 to 100km.
Assam and its environs: Assam possesses a unique geomorphic environment, with plains, dissected hills of the plateau system and with the Himalayas all around its north, north-east and east
Climate. With the “Tropical Monsoon Rainforest Climate”, Assam is temperate (Summer max. at 35-38 and winter min. at 6-8 degrees Celsius) and experiences heavy rainfall and high humidity. Temperature is lower in the hilly areas in Central Assam. Heavy monsoon downpours reduce summer temperature and produce foggy nights and mornings in winter. Thunderstorms known as Bordoicila are frequent during the afternoons. Spring (Mar-Apr) and Autumn (Sept-Oct) are usually pleasant with moderate rainfall and temperature.
The region is prone to natural disasters with annual floods (in specific areas) and frequent mild earthquakes. Floods usually occur during monsoon (mid June till late August) and destroying roads and railway. Strong earthquakes are rare; three of these were recorded in 1869, 1897 (8.1 on the Richter scale); and in 1950 (8.6).

Kaziranga National Park. World Heritage Site. It is a grassland in central Assam on the bank of the Brahmaputra; 200km east of Guwahati and hosts two-thirds of the world’s one-horned rhinoceroses with a population of 2,413: 1,641 adults (642 males, 793 females, 206 unsexed); 387 sub-adults (116 males, 149 females, 122 unsexed); and 385 calves.
In 2015, the rhino population stood at 2401.
Kaziranga is home to the highest density of tigers among protected areas in the world, and was declared a Tiger Reserve in 2006 (now the highest tiger density is in Orang National Park, Assam). The park is home to large breeding populations of elephants, wild water buffalo, and swamp deer. Kaziranga is recognized as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International for conservation of avifaunal species. When compared with other protected areas in India, Kaziranga has achieved notable success in wildlife conservation. Located on the edge of the Eastern Himalaya biodiversity hotspot, the park combines high species diversity and visibility.
Kaziranga is a vast expanse of tall elephant grass, marshland, and dense tropical moist broadleaf forests, criss-crossed by four major rivers, including the Brahmaputra, and the park includes numerous small bodies of water.

Manas Wildlife Sanctuary. World Heritage Site. (Manas Wildlife Sanctuary) A Project Tiger reserve, an elephant reserve and a biosphere reserve. Located in the Himalayan foothills, it is contiguous with the Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan. The park is known for its rare and endangered endemic wildlife such as the Assam roofed turtle, hispid hare, golden langur and pygmy hog. Manas is famous for its population of the wild water buffalo. It is 150km west of Guwahati.

Iconic Saree Weaving Clusters of India.
Tentative WHS (15/04/2014). The Saree is the Indian woman’s traditional attire and a valuable Indian contribution to the world’s cultural heritage and diversity. As a living traditional clothing, it can be traced to the Vedic civilization, evolving with trade, techniques and patterns, and innovations in its production processes. As an unstitched garment for women, it has no parallels in terms of versatility, richness of colour, texture, and variety of weaving techniques using different kinds of yarn, including cotton, silk, gold and silver thread.
The houses of craftsmen are example of vernacular architecture.
1. Chanderi, Ashok nagar District, Madhya Pradesh (24. 4312° N, 78. 748° E) Weaving has been prevalent since the past six hundred years and continues to sustain almost half of the population of Chanderi.
The town of Chanderi is divided into mohallas or residential neighborhoods. The sadar bazaar of the city is today stocked with three storied shops of sarees. The shops, projecting one over other, originally planned to be on the level with riders on elephants, on horses and on foot, give a unique profile to the street. Platforms built outside the houses provide additional work areas and for stretching yarns.
2. Banaras, Uttar Pradesh (25.2820° N, 82.9563° E). Home to the iconic brocade saree, most weavers are still in their original homes. Weavers are 25 percent of Banaras city’s population (about 110,000).
3. Feeder town Mubarakpur, Uttar Pradesh (26.0900° N, 83.2900° E). Known for pure silk Banarsi sarees with zari work, 90% of the working population are weavers in 20,000 families.
4. Paithan, Maharashtra (19.4800° N, 75.3800° E). Paithanis comprise pure gold threads and yarns of silk spun in the 2000-year old traditional method.
5. Yeola, Maharashtra (20.0420° N, 74.4890° E). See motifs from Ajanta cave paintings.  After decline of Mughal influence, the Peshwas’ of Pune settled weavers in Yeola, now with approximately 1200 weavers.
6. Koyyalagudem, Andhra Pradesh (17.1167°N 81.3000°E). The weaving room is the largest, has pits built into the floor for placing of the weaving looms, and lighting through windows / skylight. Wet areas for handling dyes, a peg at the end of room for passing the yarn while weaving, niches at a low level for keeping weaving-related articles, and storage spaces for threads.
7. Pochampalli, Andhra Pradesh (17.3861° N, 78.6433° E). Use traditional geometric patterns  in the silk city of India.
8. Sualkuchi, Assam (26.1700° N, 91.5700° E). Produces muga and mulberry silk since the fourth century BC. Of a naturally rich, golden colour, muga is the finest of India’s wild silks.
Assam tribal weaver clusters: The Karbi, Mishing, Rabha, Singpho and Tai-phake tribes have a strong textile tradition. The Mech tribe is silk-weavers in profession. The Dimasa tribes are renowned for their expertise in silk-culture and weaving-prowess and are the producers of Endi. Weaving among the tribal societies of Assam is a home craft using the back-strap loom or loin loom, which is simple and portable.

Moidams – the Mound-Burial system of the Ahom Dynasty. Tentative WHS (15/04/2014). The Tai-Ahom clan migrated from China to the Brahmaputra River Valley between 12th to 18th CE. Usurping the Barahi tribe, the first capital of the Ahoms was at the foothill of Patkai hills and named it Che-rai-doi or Che-tam-doi, meaning “a dazzling city above the mountain”. While the clan moved from city to city, it remained sacred and the burial place of the Royals. Their unique system of vaulted mounds continued for 600 years, till many Tai-Ahoms converted to Buddhism while others adopted the Hindu system of cremation.
Moidamsare vaulted chamber (chow-chali), often double storied entered through an arched passage. Atop the hemispherical mud-mound layers of bricks and earth is laid, where the base of the mound is reinforced by a polygonal toe-wall and an arched gateway on the west. Eventually the mound was covered by vegetation, reminiscent of a group of hillocks, transforming the area into an undulating landscape. Each vaulted chamber has a centrally raised platform for the body, royal insignia, objects made in wood or ivory or iron, gold pendants, ceramic ware, weapons, clothes and human buried with their king.
From 13 – 17th century, wood was the primary material for construction. From 18th century, stone and burnt bricks were used for the inner chambers cemented by the mixture of black pulse, molasses, eggs of duck, barali fish, lime (from lime stone and snail shell). Boulders of different sizes, broken stones, bricks, and broken brick were used to construct the superstructure, and large stone slabs were used for the sub-substructure.

River Island of Majuli in midstream of Brahmaputra River in Assam. Tentative WHS (02/03/2004). Mid-stream in the Brahmaputra river, the Island is a fluvial landform (a riverine delta), a unique geographical occurrence and a result of the dynamics of this vast river system – where the largest number of tributaries meet. The island is 80 km long and 10-15 km wide with a total area of about 875 Sq kin. It is 85 — 90 m above the mean sea level.
Majuli is purely a region of fluvial geomorphology – the Brahmaputra basin over time turned into a flat-level alluvial plain. The island is bounded by the river Subanisri and her tributaries on the North west, the Kherkatia Suli ( a spill channel of the river Brahmaputra) in the northeast and the main Brahmaputra River on the South and the South west. These tributaries often flood with heavy load of fine silt and clayey sediments.
Islets called Chaporis form around Majuli Island due to the braiding of the river. The banks of the island and Brahmaputra are wetland locally known as the Beefs with rich flora and fauna unique to this region.
The river, its tributaries, the wet lands and the chaporis along with the island of Majuli make it the largest mid river delta system in the world. The island today is separated from the mainland of Assam by 2.5km. It is approached from Nimati Ghat in Jorhat district by ferry to the south and lands at Kamalabari.
It has 243 villages – 210 are Cadastral Villages (revenues generated by the administration and supported with revenue maps.) and 33 are Noncadastral village (have no revenue and are mostly resettled or rehabilitated villages shifted due to flood and erosion).
There are 30 Sattras or centres for cultural activities during festivals and  democratic institution to settle local disputes.
32237.16 hectares is suitable for cultivation, 14834.66-hectare remains always under water and 7671.23 hectares not productive

OTHER DESTINATIONS
Dhola-Sadiya bridge. 
A beam bridge connecting the northeast states of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh over the Lohit River, a major tributary of the Brahmaputra River, from the village of Dhola (Tinsukia District) in the south to Sadiya to the north. The bridge is the first permanent road connection between the northern Assam and eastern Arunachal Pradesh.
At 9.15 kilometres (5.69 mi) in length, it is the longest bridge in India over water. However, the 9.76 kilometres (6.06 mi) Kacchi Dargah–Bidupur Bridge under construction in the Indian state of Bihar, is expected to become the longest bridge in India upon its estimated completion in November 2021.
With rapid movement of India’s defense assets in mind following incursions by the Chinese Army, the Dhola–Sadiya Bridge has been designed to handle the weight of 60-tonne (130,000-pound) tanks such as the Indian Army’s Arjun and T-72 main battle tanks. Since the Sino-Indian War, China has disputed India’s claim to Arunachal Pradesh, politically and militarily, along the Line of Actual Control, making the bridge an important tactical asset in the ongoing dispute.
Dibru-Saikhowa NP. 12 km north of Tinsukia at 118 m and bounded by the Brahmaputra, Lohit and Dibru river in the south. It mainly consists of moist mixed semi-evergreen forests, moist mixed deciduous forests, canebrakes and grasslands. It is the largest salix swamp forest in north-eastern India, with a tropical monsoon climate with a hot and wet summer and cool and usually dry winter.
Originally created to help conserve the habitat of the rare white-winged wood duck, the park is also home to water buffalo, black-breasted parrotbill, tiger and capped langur. The park also has some eco lodges.
Nameri NP. In the foothills of the eastern Himalayas about 35 km from Tezpur. Nameri shares its northern boundary with the Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh. Nameri is the 2nd Tiger reserve of Assam. The river Jia- Bhoroli is the lifeline of Nameri, which flows along the Southern boundary of the park. In the eastern side, the river Bor- Dikorai is the tributary of the Jia- Bhoroli. Good bird watching.
Orang NP
Sonai Rupai Wildlife Sanctuary
Bihu Festival, Assam
Kaipholangso Waterfall (Kakochang). Located about 13 km from Bokakhat, it lies in between Kaziranga National Park and Bokakhat. It is an important picnic spot where tourists can enjoy picturesque views of the nature along with the forests and hills. Best time to visit -: November – March
Lachit Borphukan Maidam, Jorhat. This is the maidam of Lachit Borphukan, the greatest Ahom General who defeated the Mughals at Saraighat in 1672. He died a year later and his remains were laid under this maidam (tomb). It is located at Gohain gaon of Meleng-Hulungapar. It is 8 km from the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary.

Cities
GUWAHATI (pop 2 million)
The largest metropolis in northeastern India, it is a major riverine port city between the foothills of the Shillong plateau and the south bank of the Brahmaputra. Many ancient Hindu temples are situated in the city, giving it the title of “The City of Temples”. The Guwahati region hosts diverse wildlife including rare animals such as Asian elephants, pythons, tigers, rhinoceros, gaurs, primate species, and endangered birds.
Guwahati Ropeway
Assam State Museum
Kamakhya Temple
Guwahati Planetarium

DIBRUGARH* (pop 150,000)
India’s longest rail cum road bridge Bogibeel bridge and other upcoming modern urban infrastructure have transformed Dibrugarh into a vibrant city.
Jokai Botanical Garden
Bogibeel Bridge. Combined road and rail bridge over the Brahmaputra River started in 2002 inaugurated in 2018. It is the longest road/rail bridge in India at 4.94kms. It has fully welded steel-concrete support beams that can withstand earthquakes of magnitudes up to 7 on the Richter Scale. It is the 5th longest bridge in India and has a double rail line on the lower deck and a 3 lane road on the upper deck.

OTHER DESTINATIONS
Jatinga is a village on a ridge 330 kilometres south of Guwahati and has 2,500 Khasi-pnar tribal people.
At the end of the monsoon especially on moonless and foggy dark nights between 6 p.m. and 9:30 p.m., birds descend as they are attracted to lights. These dazed birds are captured using bamboo poles by the locals and is not confined to a single species, with tiger bittern, black bittern, little egret, pond heron, Indian pitta, and kingfishers all being affected. The birds are mostly juvenile.
The cause is likely disorientation at high altitudes and high speed winds combined with fog. 
Namdang Stone Bridge. Constructed in 1703, it is 60 m (200 ft) long, 6.5 m (21 ft) wide and 1.7 m (5.6 ft) high. Crosses the Namdang river, a tributary of the Dikhou river and carries National Highway 2. It was cut out from a single solid piece of rock. The bridge connects Sibsagar town to Jorhat to the west. 

Maidam Maidams at Charaideo hillock are often compared with the Pyramids of Egypt.

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ASSAM (Guwahati, Jorhat, Tezpur)
World Heritage Sites
Kaziranga National Park
Manas Wildlife Sanctuary
Tentative WHS
Iconic Saree Weaving Clusters of India (15/04/2014)
Moidams – the Mound-Burial system of the Ahom Dynasty (15/04/2014)
River Island of Majuli in midstream of Brahmaputra River in Assam (02/03/2004)
Islands: Majuli
Borders
Bangladesh-India
Bhutan-India
Airports
Jorhat (JRH)
Silchar (IXS)
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Dhola-Sadiya bridge
World of Nature
Dibru-Saikhowa NP
Kaziranga NP
Manas NP
Nameri NP
Orang NP
Sonai Rupai Wildlife Sanctuary
Rivers
Brahmaputra River
Lohit/Zayü River
Festivals: Bihu Festival, Assam
Waterfalls: Kaipholangso Waterfall (Kakochang)
Monuments: Jorhat: Lachit Borphukan Maidam 

Cities of Asia and Oceania
GUWAHATI
Airports:
Guwahati (GAU)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Kamrup Metropolitan: Guwahati Ropeway
Museums: Assam State Museum
Religious Temples: Kamakhya Temple
Planetariums: Guwahati Planetarium

DIBRUGARH*
Airports:
Dibrugarh (DIB)
Railway, Metro, Funiculars, Cable Cars: Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express
Botanical Gardens: Jokai Botanical Garden
Roads, Road Bridges and Tunnels: Bogibeel Bridge

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
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