Seychelles are a group of 115 islands, only a few inhabited, in the Indian Ocean that lie off the coast of East Africa, northeast of Madagascar.
Understand
The Seychelles were disputed between France and Great Britain during the age of colonialism, with Britain ending up in control in 1814 after the Napoleonic Wars. The islands achieved independence in 1976; however, free elections did not occur until 1993. The politics of this island group remain in something of a state of flux, although this should not bother the tourist seeking a relaxing beach vacation.
Outer Seychelles. The Outer Seychelles are corralline and mostly uninhabited. Visitors are rare; travel is via private yacht or remote airstrip on small local planes.
Inner Seychelles. The vast majority of the Seychelles’ population lives on these granite islands, home to the bulk of the country’s resorts.
Aldabra Islands, Amirante Islands, Alphonse Group, Farquhar Group, Southern Coral GroupInner SeychellesMahé (Sainte Anne Island, Cerf Island, Marnelle Island)Praslin (Curieuse Island, Aride Island, Cousin Islands)La Digue (Félécite Island, The Sisters, Marie Anne Island)Silhouette Island (North Island),
Inner Corallines (Denis Island, Bird Island)
GET IN
Visa. No visa is required, but Seychellois (pronounced say-shel-wa) authorities make sure you are not entering to stay for good. Therefore, the following items MUST be presented to the immigration officer:
Your return ticket.
Your hotel voucher. Visitors without pre-booked accommodation are likely to be compelled to book one at the airport for the length of their stay before being allowed to leave the airport.
At least 150 USD per day. They will ask for cash, show them. If you have credit cards, show them – you may be asked for the credit balance you have.
A statement of good health and a statement that you are not importing plants or infected animals (The flight attendants in your flight will provide you these papers).
An initial entry permit is granted for 1 month.
By plane. Seychelles International Airport (SEZ) near Victoria. Air Seychelles. International service is also available from Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines, Nairobi (Kenya Airways, Dubai (Emirates), Abu Dhabi (Etihad), Colombo (Sri Lankan Airlines), Doha (Qatar Airways), and regular charter services from Frankfurt (Condor).
GET AROUND
By plane. Air Seychelles operates multiple daily flights between Mahe and Praslin. Over two dozen flights vary in frequency from 15 minute to 2-hour intervals, depending on time of day.
On Mahe the flights depart from the modest domestic terminal, located just next to the international terminal. The tiny airport on Praslin is modern and comfortable.
Air Seychelles also operates once daily or several times per week between Mahe and the islands of Bird, Denis, Fregate, Desroches and Alphonse. Assumption Island and Coetivy can be reached by air charter.
By helicopter. Zil Air provides charter helicopter flights to/from most of the inner and outer Seychelles islands. It is the only scenic flight operator in the Seychelles. Scenic flights can be booked to cover the main islands of Mahé, Praslin, La Digue and the surrounding smaller islands of (among others) Cousine, Félicité, Grande Seour, Curieuse and Bird Island.
By boat. Online bookings and e-ticketing has been made by Seychellesbookings. Cat Cocos and Inter Island ferry offer their routes between Praslin, Mahe and La Digue.
Cat Cocos operates catamaran multiple daily crossings between Mahe and Praslin and a daily crossing extension to La Digue. The sailing normally takes one hour. Non residents should budget roughly between €100 and €140 per person (price at February 2021) for a same day return ticket from Mahe to Praslin.
Inter Island Ferry betwen Praslin and La Digue with 8 daily departures taking only 15mins in crossing time. Tickets cost around €15 for an adult single, and can be purchased at the office or online with Seychellesbookings. Most arrivals at Praslin are timed to coincide with Cat Cocos departures to Mahe.
By car. Driving is on the left side of the road. Roads on Mahe are low-traffic, mountainous, narrow roads with steep drops or low walls on the side.
There are also few places where one could pull over to admire the view, study the map or such. Whenever you see a combination of wide curb and an interesting stop, you should take advantage of the situation. There are no sidewalks. Having a car is a good idea and makes life much more simple. For as little as 100 rupees worth of gas you can see the entire island of Mahe in a couple of days. Free parking in ‘downtown’ Victoria on Mahe.
You can only rent on Mahé and Praslin. There are several car hire counters outside the arrivals hall at Mahe international airport, which provides a convenient way to compare prices. Prices can be negotiated, with the better rate available for rental periods of 3 consecutive days or more. The ‘excess’ payable by the customer in the event of a claim, ranges from €300 to €1000 depending on the company, so choose carefully and ask the right questions.
By bus. On Praslin and Mahe and a bus usually passes by every 15 minutes.
Climate. Seychelles is hot and humid, with an average yearly temperature of 84°F (29°C), and average sea temperature rarely dropping below 81°F (27°C). However, the heat is usually mitigated by refreshing sea breezes, especially by the beaches. The cooler, drier season is during the southeast monsoon season (May to September) and the warmer, wetter season is during the northwest monsoon (November to March).
Talk. Seychellois Creole, English and French.
SEE
Culture. Several interesting sights.
Arulmigu Navasakti Vinayagar Temple in Victoria is the centre of Hinduism on the islands. The temple is beautifully decorated and the ceremonies of the temple are interesting to see. Visitors are welcome, and discreet photography is allowed. Footwear should be removed and left in the vestibule. Please turn off your phone and avoid loud talking.
Seychelles Natural History Museum in Victoria is small, inexpensive and interesting. Visitors will learn about the unique nature and geology of the islands.
The ruined youth village of Cap Ternay is located at the end of a narrow one lane road on Mahe. This quiet and eerily beautiful place is best enjoyed by those who spend a bit of time beforehand reading about the site’s history.
Nature.
Vallee de Mai on Praslin is a national park and world heritage site, home to amazing flora and fauna, including the world’s largest seed: the coco de mer. The remote paths far from the entrance are less crowded and offer the best views, but can be rough and steep.
Beaches Many are untouched and uncrowded, tranquility. At low tide can spot interesting wildlife there: ghost crabs, leaping blennys, flying fish.
Beau Vallon to Anse hike along coast will take about 1.5-2 hours, scenery breathtaking. Not all beaches are suitable for swimming depending on the time of year, due to the strength and direction of wind, absence or presence of a protective reef and the tide.
Aldabra Atoll: The world’s largest coral atoll that stretches about 22 miles east to west and encloses a huge tidal lagoon. Aldabra is the original home of the giant land tortoise and tiger sharks and manta rays can also often be seen here.
Watersports: Explore on a yacht, power boat, catamaran or sailboat. Windsurfing best in May then in October, at the start and end of the trade winds.
Scuba diving, snorkeling, and fishing can be done almost anywhere. Baie Ternay is superb and easily acccessible by glass bottom boat tour from Beau Vallon beach – leave yourself an empty day and walk the beach for a ‘last minute’ booking – great deals can be bartered.
Snorkeling (provided you have your own gear – some hotels lend masks, snorkels and fins to guests) is free and there are many great spots: off some of the small beaches at Glacis, past Mouse Island at Anse Royale, along the reef at Port Launay (near Ephelia Resort). Often spotted are a wide array of tropical fish, sea turtles, eagle rays and more!
Land Sports: Golf, tennis, squash, badminton, horseback riding, biking and hiking, Bike rentals and walking tours. Walking is probably the best way to see the smaller islands (La Digue, Praslin), while walking along the main road can be quite intimidating as the roads are narrow and local cars/busses drive quite quickly. On Mahe it is not advised to ride bicycles, and there are no rental shops within sight. Bird watching is also popular and the islands are home to many of the worlds most treasured and rare species of animals. The best place to do so is Cousin Island which although only 1 km (0.6 miles) in diameter, is home to more than 300,000 birds, but many unique species can be found at ease on Mahe.
Nightlife: Do not miss most popular Nightclub “Lovenut” in the centre of Victoria, 100 metres walk from central Taxi station. Also entertaining are “Tequila Boom” at (Bel Ombre) and “Katiolio” (near Anse Royale) night clubs. “Katiolio” was one of the first nightclubs to open on Mahe and boats an open-air that is directly beside the ocean.
Hiking There are several maintained hiking routes on the main island of Mahe and a few on Praslin. The Seychelles tourism office has a few descriptions of the hiking routes with maps available to be purchased. Check out openstreetmap for some hiking tracks around the islands.
Shopping. Seychelles also has numerous markets, art galleries and shops, colonial Creole-style plantation houses, and the main island of Mahé has six museums, a botanical garden, and several national monuments. The market downtown Victoria has a good selection of local produce, and spices for sale that are all grown locally and 100% authentic.
Buy
Money. Seychelles rupee (SCR). To get the best rates, use credit cards as much as possible, and get your cash from ATMs. Credit cards and European debit cards are widely accepted, with the notable exception of gas stations. Petrol must be paid with cash.
Trading in foreign currency has wiped out the previously wide-spread black market, which offered up to twice the official rate.
Tipping. Most service providers already include a service charge of 5% – 10%.
Eat. Creole cooking, varied seafood dishes, coconuts and curries are the most popular. The main product of the country, fish, is cooked in a variety of ways. Especially the red snapper is very tasty and well known to visitors.
Seybrew beer, it tastes similar to a light Bavarian style beer and is a must to get you through those balmy days. You can save yourself a packet buying the beer from stores on the side of the road like the locals do rather than from hotels. A dark Takamaka Rum on the beach under the stars is the best way to end a day on the Seychelles.
Sleep. The Seychelles are not tolerant of backpackers turning up at the airport without accommodation booked. In such a situation, you will likely be taken to a counter where you will have to book & pay for accommodation for the duration of your trip before being allowed through immigration. Visitors need to provide details of their accommodation on their landing card (Hotel Name, address, phone number).
Most accommodations are relatively expensive and some islands have only one hotel. In fact, some of the islands aren’t even permanently inhabited and accommodation can be found on fewer than 10. Your best bet for a budget bed is renting an apartment or bungalow, which are available at better rates. Prices greatly increase and accommodation hard to find during December to January and July to August and Easter.
Small hotels. The common perception of Seychelles only offering an expensive accommodation, however, is an unfortunate one as you truly are likely to find accommodation to fit into almost everyone’s budget. Some establishments will offer you a double room for two persons starting at €65. At this cost you will not have many luxuries, but you will have the Creole hospitality that has made these islands so famous.
Stay safe. Jail terms are stiff and are strictly enforced since the island makes lots of money from tourism. Actual tourist scams are very rare, but it is advisable to check all bills at the restaurants and other establishments before paying.
Health. Chikungunya virus is a disease spread by mosquitoes, and causes flu-like symptoms. It is increasing in concern and although it is rare to die from it, the joint pain it causes can last for months. Insect repellent can help deter mosquitoes but not much else can be done as a precaution. The disease is native to East Africa and occasionally is introduced and quickly eradicated.
Tap water is safe to drink on Mahe and Praslin, but water quality is variable in undeveloped areas. It is recommended to drink bottled water only and to avoid bodies of fresh water like lakes, rivers, ponds, etc.
Respect.
The attitude towards manners and dressing is generally relaxed, and common sense and common courtesy are usually enough to keep one out of trouble. Shorts and T-shirts can be worn almost everywhere. Dress shirt and long trousers are appropriate for a night out in Victoria or for a dinner in an upscale establishment.
Contact. The Seychelles Tourism board is a great point of reference and they will be able to answer any and all questions you might have. Their website is www.seychelles.travel
Get out. Try Comoros, Mauritius, and Maldives.
Many people travel to Comoros and Mauritius because they are similar to Seychelles but the price is generally cheaper. They consist of similar reefs, beaches and they also contain some luxury resorts. However, they travel to Seychelles and Maldives for the exclusivity of it. Seychelles has a multitude of resorts and many fun and exciting activities.
NOMAD MANIA Seychelles – Mahe, Praslin, La Digue
World Heritage Sites: Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve
Tentative WHS: Mission Ruins of Venn’s Town (01/02/2013)
Islands
LA DIGUE
Festivals: La Digue Festival
Open-Air Museums: La Digue: L’Union Estate Farm
MAHE
Airports: Mahe (SEZ)
VICTORIA (SC) World Capital
Museums: Seychelles Natural History Museum
Religious Temples
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Botanical Gardens: Victoria: Botanical Gardens
Festivals
Festival Kreol
Seychelles International Carnival of Victoria
PRASLIN
Airports: Praslin (PRI)
Museums: Praslin: Praslin Museum
Beaches: Praslin: Anse Volbert
World of Nature: Praslin NP
SILHOUETTE
Tentative WHS: Silhouette Island (01/02/2013)
World of Nature: Silhouette Island Marine National Park
Borders: Seychelles (sea border/port)
World of Nature
Aride Island Nature Reserve
Curieuse Marine NP
Morne Seychellois NP
Ramos NP
Ste Anne Marine NP
Ste Anne National Marine Park
Veuve Reserve
Beaches
Anse Intendance
Anse Lazio
Anse Source D’Argent
Beau Vallon Beach
Cocos Island
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NOMAD MANIA Seychelles – Aldabra, Farquhar Islands
M@P: Aldabra, Amirante, Farquhar, Southern Coral Group
World Heritage Sites: Aldabra Atoll
Islands
Aldabra group
Amirante group
Farquhar group
Borders: Seychelles (sea border/port)
XL
Alphonse Group
Southern Coral Group (Île Platte and Coëtivy Island)