MALAWI – The Trip

Malawi May 22-26, 2023

Malawi is a landlocked country in Southeastern Africa that was formerly known as Nyasaland. It is bordered by Zambia to the west, Tanzania to the north and northeast, and Mozambique to the east, south and southwest. Malawi’s capital (and largest city) is Lilongwe. Its second-largest is Blantyre, its third-largest is Mzuzu and its fourth-largest is its former capital, Zomba. The country is nicknamed “The Warm Heart of Africa” because of the friendliness of its people.
The part of Africa now known as Malawi was settled around the 10th century by migrating Bantu groups. Centuries later, in 1891, the area was colonized by the British. In 1964, Nyasaland became an independent country and was renamed Malawi. Two years later it became a republic. It gained full independence from the United Kingdom, and by 1970 had become a totalitarian one-party state under the presidency of Hastings Banda, who remained in this role until 1994. Today, Malawi has a democratic, multi-party republic headed by an elected president. The May 2019 Presidential Election was annulled due to massive electoral irregularities. Malawi’s foreign policy is pro-Western.
Malawi is one of the world’s least-developed countries. The economy is heavily based on agriculture, and it has a largely rural and rapidly growing population. The Malawian government depends heavily on outside aid to meet its development needs, although the amount needed (and the aid offered) has decreased since 2000. The Malawian government faces challenges in its efforts to build and expand the economy, to improve education, healthcare, and environmental protection, and to become financially independent despite widespread unemployment.
Malawi has a low life expectancy and high infant mortality. HIV/AIDS is highly prevalent, which both reduces the labour force and requires increased government expenditures. The country has a diverse population that includes native peoples, Asians, and Europeans.
It lies between latitudes 9° and 18°S.
The Great Rift Valley runs through the country from north to south, and to the east of the valley lies Lake Malawi (also called Lake Nyasa), making up over three-quarters of Malawi’s eastern boundary. Lake Malawi is sometimes called the Calendar Lake as it is about 587 kilometres (365 mi) long and 84 kilometres (52 mi) wide. The Shire River flows from the south end of the lake and joins the Zambezi River 400 kilometres (250 mi) farther south in Mozambique. The surface of Lake Malawi is at 457 metres (1,500 ft) above sea level.
In the mountainous sections of Malawi surrounding the Rift Valley, plateaus rise generally 914 to 1,219 metres (3,000 to 4,000 ft) above sea level, although some rise as high as 2,438 metres (8,000 ft) in the north. To the south of Lake Malawi lie the Shire Highlands, gently rolling land at approximately 914 metres (3,000 ft) above sea level. In this area, the Zomba and Mulanje mountain peaks rise to respective heights of 2,134 and 3,048 metres (7,000 and 10,000 ft).
Malawi has two WHS – Lake Malawi National Park and the Chongoni Rock Art Area. Malawi is fairly easy to drive in and the roads are much better than the neighbouring countries on average. Police don’t hassle foreign drivers any more than they do local oneS

Capital. Lilongwe
Languages. Official English. Recognized national language. Chewa.
Ethnic groups. 25.2% Chewa, 20.4% Tumbuka, 17.9% Lomwe, 15.3% Yao, 5.4% Ngoni, 4.8% Sena, 3.2% Mang’anja, 1.9% Nyanja, 1.8% Tonga, 1.0% Ngonde
Religions. 82.3% Christianity —58.5% Protestantism, 17.2% Catholicism, 6.6% Other Christian. 13.8% Islam, 2.1% None, 1.2% Traditional faith
Area. Total 118,484 km² (45,747 sq mi) (99th). Water 20.3%
Population. 2020. 20,091,635 (62nd). Density 153.1/km² (396.5/sq mi) (56th)
GDP (PPP). $35.0 billion (137th). Per capita $1,558 (186th)
GDP (Nominal). $11.5 billion (149th). Per capita $523 (190th)
Gini. 44.7 medium
HDI. 0.512 low · 169th
Currency. Malawian kwacha (D) (MWK). Black market money.
Driving side. Left
Country code. +265

Visas. A VOA is available for citizens of the US, Belgium, Norway and Sweden.  
Malawi – e visa takes 3-5 days but mine was approved in less than one day. It is an onerous form to fill out and asks many questions (have a flight number available), a passport photo, a copy of your passport (both these must be less than 293 KB) and two letters – one from a host and one from your accommodation (the same accommodation letter can be used for both). 
I was unable to get a letter from either of the two accommodations I booked on Booking.com so went to the Malawi Embassy in Harare, Zimbabwe who suggested that I write a letter explaining my difficulties getting a letter from any accommodation (I also included a copy of a flight booking I had made and lost getting only a partial refund). The application was accepted and I sent her the application #, she contacted the Malawi visa program and her help was instrumental in getting the visa approved on the same day. 
Resources: iOverlander, iOverland FB and WhatsApp groups; English Mzungu Map Backpacking Africa | Mzungu / mzungu.org, invite from the WhatsApp group.
Maps.Me is more reliable than Google Maps.
Money. Malawian Kwachas (MWK). 1US$ = 1.036 MWK; 1 € = 1,120 MK; 1 CA$ = 771MK
Black Market Money so don’t use ATMs or credit cards. Big bills get better rates. The average black market rate was 1400 MK/US$
MWK are impossible to get rid of outside Malawi. 
SIM. MTN. Very good reception everywhere I went. Make sure to buy at the MTN main store in Blantyre near Crazy Foods. I bought on the street and then a store and it was a disaster. 4000 MK for 9.1 GB data + 1000 MK for phone. 

Climate is hot in the low-lying areas in the south of the country and temperate in the northern highlands. The altitude moderates what would otherwise be an equatorial climate. Between November and April, the temperature is warm with equatorial rains and thunderstorms, with the storms reaching their peak severity in late March. After March, the rainfall rapidly diminishes, and from May to September wet mists float from the highlands into the plateaus, with almost no rainfall during these months.

Day 1 Sun May 21
The cheapest flight from Harare to Lilongwe, Malawi was $280 and most of the others were over $500 with several transfers and layovers. So I decided to get a bus to Blantyre (597 km, 8.5 hours) which must traverse Mozambique.
I was up at 4 and got a taxi ($7) to Roadport domestic bus station in Harare. I was unable to get an international bus to Blantyre, Malawi as the visa is VOA and they refused to wait for me. Bolt Cutter left at 06:30 with the driver idling and revving the engine for over an hour. 
The plan was to arrive at the Nyamapanda border of Mozambique, get the VOA, hopefully, continue to Tete on this bus or wait for Trip Trans as they come through.
Buses to Malawi. Two companies have trips to Blantyre Malawi.
Three Stars. Trips to Lilongwe Mon, Thru and Sat @ 7 am. $50
Trip Trans. Daily buses except Saturdays @ 7 am. $40. But they require the passengers to have a Mozambique visa as the VOA at the border is a 3-4 hour wait, so refused to sell me a ticket. They advised that the only solution is to take a domestic bus (in the lot next to the international terminal. Several lines (including Timboon Coaches) leave daily from the west side of the domestic lot (6, 8, 11, 1 pm) for Nyamopanda, the Mozambique border town. $10.

Mozambique / Malawi border: Zoube, Mozambique / Mwanza, Malawi
Money exchange. A money changer offered for 1US$, first 1500 MK then 1600 MK then 1700 – he was so keen to make a deal, I decided to wait, guessing that the rate was better in Malawi, a black-market money country. These guys can never be trusted and seem to always lie.
At the border, Mozambiquians were offering 1600, then 1800 and then 2000, which I should have taken. In Malawi, the bank rate was 1400 and one money changer would not go above 1500, which surprised me.
Mozambique immigration: Very fast, just a stamp.
It is about 8 km from Zoube to Malawi immigration. Many bodas were competing for business, in two different currencies, but there was no rush as I made them compete with each other. Eventually, I got 150 MM, but he thought that was just 500 m to a group of taxis (almost all taxis in Mwanza just shuttle around the border). He took me to the Malawi immigration for the same price.
We were stopped by the army. Country? Where did you come from” Where are you going”, What are you doing in Malawi? All very pleasant and he welcomed me to Malawi.
Malawi immigration: I had to show my COVID vaccinations and e-visa paper copy. He asked several questions. Three stamps take up almost a full page. Male immigration offices almost always understand and stamp where requested, but the women are always difficult.

MALAWI – SOUTH (Blantyre)
Borders: Malawi ‘mainland’ (lake), Malawi-Mozambique
Day 1 Mon May 22
Getting to Blantyre. Walk down about 300 m to catch a minivan – there are no buses. However, It was very slow to fill. I ate at a string of outdoor eateries cooking over a wood fire – chips, 2 fried eggs, and salad for 1400 from a very sweet lady. Then all of a sudden, there were two vans leaving now, one for 10,000 and my original choice for 6000 MK. I had a front seat all alone in a van half full. A taxi was 80,000 – I just walked away as there was no point in bargaining.
We left at 12:30. The scene was nicely planted crops, banana plantations, sugar cane, more trees than Mozambique, a lovely high rock monolith and other low hills.
But then many stops trying to get passengers, as expected. These leave are not full. A woman came to sit in the front – with BO, but a narrow ass, all ok. A funeral passed – hundreds of people walking across the entire road, first all women, then men.
Many bicycle taxis, have not been seen since Burundi. People walking on the road. Women dressed in colourful wraparounds.

BLANTYRE Economic capital and largest city; Blantyre is a large and thriving city with an interesting downtown, decent nightlife and music, a range of hotels from the elegant to rest houses, and a vibrant street and market culture.
The best place to do business in Blantyre is in the east going one way above the west trending one-way. Besides Crazy Food (ok fast food), there is a good supermarket and the TNM main office across the street – everything one needs in Blantyre. Avoid buying a SIM card on the street or at any of the businesses, simply go to the main office. 

ON Bounty Guest House. Easily the cheapest hotel in Blantyre (15,000 MK), it was about 1 km walk, mostly downhill and on a rough dirt road with no street lights. A lovely guesthouse, very clean, and roomy, hot shower, good cable TV channels and a fan, the cheapest place in Blantyre and a great deal.

Day 2 Tue May 23
I lost my data on the TNM SIM I bought and went to the TNM main office to learn that I had been cheated and sold 1 GB of WA data instead of 5 GB. I bought 9 GB of data for about 4000MK. I then went to the next-door supermarket and bought coffee, sugar and shampoo.
Car Rental. The car rental company is SS Car Rental in the next block. I rented a Toyota Corolla (very good mileage and dependable) for two days. I had changed my plan to see all of Malawi and to skip the north as there was little to see and a long drive. I complained about the cheap 200 km/day mileage allowance so they gave me 10% off the $50/day rental. I will have at least 200 km excess mileage at US.25/km, equal to about a third-day rental. I wanted to buy complete insurance but it is $410/day! so I put the car on my World Elite MC which covers car insurance. The catch is that using a credit card is charged at the official rate of 1.036 MK/US$ (black market rate at least 1400) and it gets a 5% surcharge. They went over the damage with a fine-tooth comb which is good (I hope I have none). The pluses of the rental is a full tank of gas and one is allowed a three-hour late return. The other minus is that it must be brought back clean to avoid a cleaning charge.
I had a drive about to see the NM sites in Blantyre.
Mileage driven was 857 for a 457 mileage over allowance at .25US/km for US$117 extra charge.
Delamere House, In the NM Architectural Delights series, is a tired, 1950s-style 8-story business building with shops on the bottom.
St Michael and All Angels Church. An Anglican church with elaborate brickwork – buttresses, turrets, chevrons, medallions and a silver dome. It was closed and I got tired of waiting for it to open. Appeared to have lovely stained glass.  Lovely manicured gardens. A separate square brick bell/clock tower.
Mandala House (Abrar Vanara). In the NM Urban Legends series, this is a lovely house behind the usual high brick wall. The building was formerly a residence built in 1882 by the African Lakes Corporation for their managers. The house is built in the colonial style and is wrapped by an encasing veranda. The site includes a garden on the property and currently is a managed historical site that is home to the “Mandala Cafe”, the “La Caverna” art gallery, and the main library and offices of the Society of Malawi, Historical and Scientific.
Made from sun-dried grass, mud and bricks, the Old Manager’s House in mandala is the oldest European building in Malawi. Early European settlers used the house and fortified yard as a laager in times of armed conflict from the Angoni days to the Chilembwe Uprising. Defensive walls and towers extended from the main building.
The company Mandala was founded in 1878 by the African Lakes Corporation following the settling of missionaries in Blantyre two years earlier. Until the end of the 19th century, the Old Manager’s House was the centre of commerce for the company African Lakes Corporation. The head Office of ALC was in Glasgow and Mandala was their chief office in Africa.
Museum of Malawi. Some stuffed mammals in glass cases at the entrance and 22 glass cases lining one large room each with a brief display on all things from Malawi – evolution, Stone Age, Bronze Age, pottery, housewares, farm implements, weapons, musical instruments, slavery, Livingston. 500 MK 
Limbe Cathedral of our Lady. A large RC brick church with two towers over the entrance. Under renovation, the church was empty with broken tiles all over. The three naves had 5 arches per side. The Ways of the Cross were painted bas-reliefs in stone frames.
It was 273 km from here to my eventual destination for the day – Cape McClear. The road is a mix of potholes and great pavement passing through many villages and lots of bicycles.

King African Rifles Monument. On the south side of Zomba, this is a three-tiered brick clock tower with 1914-1918 over the door. A large bronze plaque says: “THIS CLOCK TOWER with ROLLS OF HONOUR WAS ERECTED To The GLORIOUS AND UNDYING MEMORY of the OFFICERS, WARRANT OFFICERS AND MEN of the 1st – 2nd REGIMENTS KING’S AFRICAN RIFLES NYASALAND WHO GAVE THEIR LIVES IN THE GREAT WAR”
On each of the six sides is a large bronze plaque listing about 1000 casualties of WWI, stating if they were killed in action or died of disease. Three had accidental deaths.
Zomba Nature Reserve. The Zomba Plateau, also called the Zomba Massif, is a mountain of the Shire Highlands in southern Malawi. Its total area is about 130 square kilometres (50 sq mi), with a highest point of 2,087 metres (6,847 ft).
The plateau is roughly pear-shaped. The southern portion is known as Zomba Mountain, and the northern portion as Malosa. The deeply incised Domasi Valley runs east and west between the two.
The plateau was largely made up of granitic syenite, an igneous rock that intruded into the older metamorphic rocks that make up the highlands during the late Jurassic and Cretaceous periods 150-65 million years ago. The Mulanje Massif to the southeast is of similar composition and origin. Precious and semi-precious stones such as quartz can be found.
The Zomba and Malosa forest reserves were established in 1913. Most of the plateau is covered with plantations of Mexican pine trees (Pinus patula). Small patches of native montane forest and miombo woodland remain. The pines were planted for timber production for the Zomba Sawmill, which is located at the southern slopes of the mountain. Where indigenous trees are left, severe deforestation due to the high demand for firewood in the region is a problem. Fruits like strawberries, yellow-berries and blackberries are grown on the mountain for the local market.
The Zomba Plateau is the region’s major tourist attraction. Activities offered include hiking, horse riding, rock climbing, fishing and mountain biking. A paved all-weather road leads from Zomba on the plateau. The massif hosts several accommodations for tourists, such as the Sunbird KuChawe Inn and several camping grounds. Additionally, several companies and institutions, such as the CCAP Church, as well as private persons have cottages on the plateau.
On clear days, Blantyre and the Mulanje Massif, which are both about 60 km away, can be seen. From the western edge of the plateau, Shire River and Liwonde National Park can be seen.
In 2000, the Mulunguzi Dam was opened, which serves as a water reservoir for the City of Zomba.
Williams Falls. Take a rough 11 km road from the south end of Zomba and pass Mulunguzi Dam through a thick pine forest. It was first discovered byMr. William, a Scottish man living in Zomba and the first plantation manager for the plateau. It is a 3 m high cascade.

ZOMBA. Zomba is the old colonial capital of Malawi and is noted for its British colonial architecture, the University of Malawi, and the remarkable Zomba Plateau which rises immediately west of the city. While in Zomba, visit the extensive market, and purchase fabric and handicrafts.

Lake Chilwa Wetland (01/02/2011). 230,000 ha in area with an average altitude of 627 m above sea level. An average rainfall of 1042.9mm per annum beginning in November and ending in April. The lake is surrounded by marshes and floodplains. This area is about 40 Km across from east to west and km from North to South. At times of high water level, open water covers about 1,500 km. The respective areas at times of low water level are 648 km’, 699 km’, 300 km’ and 430 km’. The lake is a closed system with several inflowing rivers but no outlet. As such, water in the wetland is lost through evaporation, transpiration and seepage, and the remainder is what constitutes Lake Chilwa at the end dry season.
It supports a waterfowl population of 354,000 with 164 bird species, 43 of which are seasonal and long-term changes in lake level have major impacts on floodplain inundation and consequently on waterbird populations. The six wetland habitats vary depending on the level of the lake which fluctuates seasonally; the lake has dried up on seven occasions in the century. One wetland-dependent bird species of global concern occurs regularly in significant numbers -the African skimmer (Rynchops flavirostris), lesser kestrel, the locally rare pallid harrier and great snipe.
Population pressure around the lake is high, with up to 164 people/Km’ and an estimated 77,000 people living in the wetland itself. Poverty is high and most people live a subsistence lifestyle growing maize and/or rice. The lake is used extensively for fishing by the local communities throughout the year and during times of food shortage (usually November to March), bird hunting is also carried out to supplement and sustain the food resources of the local population. The birds caught at the lake are either eaten and/or sold for income, As estimated 1,2 million birds are trapped annually by at least 460 trappers, the economic value of which is estimated at US$215,000 (17,2 Million Mk). Currently, there are over 1,300 registered bird hunters who belong to at least 20 bird hunting clubs that form part of the Lake Chilwa Hunters Association which was formed to sustainably manage the utilization of sedentary and migratory water birds.
Chrisi Island is in Lake Chilwa.

After Zomba the sites passed were: 
Liwonde NP
Lake Malombe
Mangochi Village.
Lake Malawi Museum. In Mangochi, the museum has exhibits on the lake explaining the fish. 1000 MK

The paved road turns into a new highway under construction for the last 30 km to Cape McClear. Bypass on a very dusty detour and then fair narrow pavement to Cape McClear. 
Cape Maclear. Laid-back fishing village on the tip of a peninsula jutting out into the southern portion of Lake Malawi. The Cape has excellent, sandy beaches and crystal-clear water perfect for swimming, and is a favourite among backpackers, boaters, and sun-seekers.
The village is a maze of dusty, heavily eroded roads. I followed some guys to a one-night music festival with a crowd of “thousands”. Finding Fat Monkey Lodge was difficult as the main road was so eroded to be impassable.
I had chicken schnitzel with mashed potato and salad for dinner at Fat Monkey. At dinner, I watched the BBC with a long report about cholera in Malawi. It is endemic here.  

ON Fat Monkey Lodge. On the south shore of Lake Malawi, it is in an idyllic setting. The water is high now but earlier there was 20m of the beach. I took a dorm room ($12) instead of the next cheapest, a single for $65 (offered for $50). This is a great place to stay, very well organized, and clean, has no bugs, good restaurant.

Lake Malawi National Park. WHS Located at the southern end of the great expanse of Lake Malawi, with its deep, clear waters and mountain backdrop, the national park is home to many hundreds of fish species, nearly all endemic. Its importance for the study of evolution is comparable to that of the finches of the Galapagos Islands.

Fish diversity. Lying within the Western Rift Valley, Lake Malawi is one of the deepest lakes in the world. An example of biological evolution due to the isolation of Lake Malawi from other water bodies, its fish have developed impressive adaptive radiation and speciation. Habitat types vary from rocky shorelines to sandy beaches and from wooded hillsides to swamps and lagoons. Granitic hills rise steeply from lakeshore and there are many sandy bays.
Small brightly coloured rocky-shore tilapiine cichlids (rockfish), known locally as mbuna. All but five of over 350 species of mbuna are endemic to Lake Malawi and represented in the park.  Lake Malawi’s cichlids are considered of equal value to science as the finches of the Galapagos Islands remarked on by Charles Darwin or the honeycreepers of Hawaii.
Outstanding diversity of its freshwater fishes is estimated as the largest number of fish species of any lake in the world. Endemism is very high: of particular significance are the cichlid fish, of which all but 5 of over 350 species are endemic. The lake contains 30% of all known cichlid species in the world. The property is also rich in other fauna including mammals, birds and reptiles.

I didn’t see
Tentative WHS
Khulubvi And Associated Mbona Sacred Rain Shrines (01/02/2011). Dating from 1500 A.D., they were used to offer sacrifices to their Mphambe (God) in times of drought or other calamities. Khulubvi Sacred Shrine. Mang’anja tribe worship the spirit of Mbona. to bring rain, create forests and hide from enemies by turning into guinea fowls.
A traditional hut within Khulubvi’s natural thicket of approximately 100 square metres was constructed as a worshipping site.
There are many other rain shrines: Nyandzikwi, Mwala U1I1odzi shrine, Kaloga sacred cave site, Chifunda Lundu, Nkhadzi sacred site, Mtsakana rain shrine. These sites are used for traditional religions for divine worship and powers for communicating with spirits of Mbona. Used for the initiation of young boys, to offer sacrifices in the form of beer and other food stuffs, millet that is used to brew beer to be used during the day of ceremony. Particular traditional songs are sang
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Day 3 Wed May 24
I left Cape McClear at 07:30 for the drive to Lilongwe. A large truck had overturned on the first bit of blacktop out of Cape McClear, completely blocking the road. I was able to sneak around a narrow area on the right. Thankfully it was downhill as I doubt that I could have got around the other way. Follow the dusty road back to the highway. The initial highway was very potholed but then turned into wonderful pavement for the 270 km drive to Lilongwe. On the drive, encountered many herds of cattle that completely blocked the road. Donkeys and bullocks pulling carts are not rare. 

MALAWI – CENTRAL (Lilongwe)
Borders: Malawi ‘mainland’ (lake): Malawi-Mozambique, Malawi-Zambia
On the way to Lilongwe, drive over a pass from which you get great panoramic views to the west.

LILONGWE (pop 1,122,000 2020) is the capital and most populated city of the African country of Malawi. The city is located in the central region of Malawi, in the district of the same name, near the borders with Mozambique and Zambia, and it is an important economic and transportation hub for central Malawi.
History. Lilongwe was first set up as a boma by the local leader Njewa in 1902. In the 1920s, its location at the junction of several major roadways increased its importance as an agricultural market centre for the fertile Central Region Plateau. After gaining independence, it increasingly developed into an important trading centre in Malawi’s central region. In 1965, Malawi’s first president, Hastings Kamuzu Banda, selected it as an economic growth point for northern and central Malawi. Lilongwe became the capital of Malawi in 1975, replacing the previous capital, Zomba.
Rail connections to Salima to the east and the Zambian border to the west; industrial areas in the northern part of the city
Lilongwe is located on a plateau in Central Malawi, forming part of the East African Rift Valley situated at an altitude of 1,050 m (3,440 ft) above sea level, along the Lilongwe River.
Lilongwe is divided into a New and Old City. The former hosts hotels, embassies, governmental institutions, and offices while the latter has markets, bus stations, cafes and restaurants. The modern shops of the city are contrasted by the street and walled markets of Old Town.
Airports; Lilongwe (LLW)
Kulemeka Gardens. This is the life’s love of a lovely woman who bought this beautiful house and property in 2012 and has transformed it into a jungle of plants – a huge collection of succulents in pots, bushes, pieces of grass, hedges, flowers, paths, small bridges, many benches and small sections of grass. Her daughter lives in Edmonton. Free 
World War I Memorial. On a large platform, this five-tiered bell tower has one wall of silver plaques commemorating WWI, 1903, and the 2000 Somalia war. Has 105 steps and then stairs to climb to the top.
Dr Hastings Kamuzu Banda Mausoleum. Banda was the founder and father of Malawi and died in 1997. In a large park next to the presidential palace, this is a grave under a multi-columned cover. 
Reserve Bank of Malawi, In the NM Architectural Delights series, this is a modern cream-tiled building with a large base and four ascending in size stories.
Lilongwe Wildlife Centre. In the middle of Lilongwe, this slice of nature has a lot of monkeys and three trails, one down to the river (crocodiles and at night hyenas) and some impala. More of a place to walk than a zoo.
Maula Cathedral. A fairly low modern building with a hip roof, it has a lot of green, white and blue coloured glass windows and a semicircular brick bell tower. Unfortunately closed. A large wooden statue of Mary is outside under a gazebo.
Money changer. To get a black market rate, visit the parking lot in front of the strip mall across from Shoprite. A guy is sitting under a tree. 1US$ for 1400. I changed a 100$ bill. 
Lizulu Market. Down a rough dirt road, I think I was taken for a ride here. I was absolutely mobbed by many touts and paid 7000 for 4 tomatoes, 2 avocados and a small basket of strawberries. A fruit/veg market. 
Jamme Mosque. The last thing to see in Lilongwe is it has two multi-tiered minarets, is modern and very nice inside. 

Chongoni Rock-Art Area. WHS. Situated within a cluster of forested granite hills and covering an area of 126.4 km2, high up the plateau of central Malawi, the 127 sites of this area feature the richest concentration of rock art in Central Africa. They reflect the comparatively scarce tradition of farmer rock art, as well as paintings by BaTwa hunter-gatherers who inhabited the area from the late Stone Age. The Chewa agriculturalists, whose ancestors lived there from the late Iron Age, practised rock painting until well into the 20th century. The symbols in the rock art, which are strongly associated with women, still have cultural relevance amongst the Chewa, rain-making and funerary rites, traditions that persist in Chewa society to this day, painting with white clay, where the previous inhabitants, Batwa hunter-gatherers, had a tradition of painting in red.  Their images are particularly associated with women’s initiation,  In recent decades, the symbolism of the rock art has served an important role in a Chewa secret society, Nyau. The Chewa white paintings depict animals, spirits, gods, reptiles and legendary creatures and many are relatively recent, given that some of them depict vehicles.

The rock art records the transition from a foraging lifestyle to food production, the subsequent Ngoni invasion of the Chewa people, and the coming of the white man in the topography of rock overhangs amongst wooded slopes.
Home to 127 rock art sites, only three are open to the public – Chentcherere, Namzeze and Mphunzi.
It is located approximately 25 km northwest of Dedza in a cluster of forested granite hills, a long drive on a dirt road to the site. On return, about 20 km south on the highway, I encountered a sign, Chongoni Rock Art site Information Centre 12 km. When I got there, there was an identical sign saying the Information Centre was 12 km back from where I was!!

The 300 km drive back to Blantyre travelled over a high ridge/plateau with sweeping views to the west and to the east. Pass through a nice landscape with many isolated mountains covered with boulders and several dramatic monoliths.
I drove the last 100 km in the dark, not a great idea in Africa. A huge number of pedestrians, bicycles and motorcycles (most with no taillights) are on the shoulderless road. Many drivers don’t dim their brights. Pass through several market towns with a huge number of people about.
Car rental. In total, I drove 857 km incurring a mileage surcharge of 457 km X .25US$/km = $117. I exchanged more money as it could be paid in MK at a black market rate.
I was lucky and they didn’t notice a dent on the left lower side where I hit a rock on the way to McClear. He was also generous accepting a slight discount on the mileage. He also gave me a courtesy ride to the airport. All in all, SS Car Rental is to be recommended.

I didn’t see. It was simply too far and would have added 2 days to the car rental and a lot of extra mileage not covered. 
MALAWI – NORTH (Mzuzu)
Tentative WHS
Nyika National Park (17/05/2000)
Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve (01/02/2011)
MZUZU. Largest town in the Northern Region and a staging post for transport to Tanzania
Karonga* – quickly growing spurred on by the recent development of a uranium mine and a charming town, not far from the intriguing Misuku Hills and a short distance from 
Likoma and Chisumulu Islands – great sea life and a backdoor to Mozambique.
Religious Temples: Likoma Island: St Peter’s Cathedral

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GENERAL
Malawi is bordered by Mozambique to the south and east, Tanzania to the north, and Zambia to the west. Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa, runs along most of its eastern border. It’s often described as the “Warm Heart of Africa“, referring to the friendliness of the people.
History. Established in 1891, the British protectorate of Nyasaland became the independent nation of Malawi on 6 July 1964. Hastings Kamuzu Banda (1898 – 1997) was the leader of Malawi and its predecessor state, Nyasaland, from 1961 to 1994. After three decades of one-party rule, the country held multi-party elections in 1994 under a provisional constitution, which took full effect the following year. National multi-party elections were held again in 1999 and 2004 electing Bingu wa Mutharika as president.
Climate. Much of Malawi is a plateau, often reaching 1,000m (3,000 ft), and the temperature in these highlands is moderate, with the hottest period occurring during the autumn rainy season and the coolest and chilliest in winter. The hottest region in the country is the lower Shire River Valley well south of Blantyre. Temperatures along scenic Lake Malawi are generally warm, but with a cooling breeze, especially in the evenings. Winters (May till July) are dry. The rainy season begins in mid-October to early November and generally runs until March.
Culture. Malawi’s people are its greatest asset – friendly, welcoming, colourful and vibrant. It’s impossible to visit and not become engaged with the people, but there are now opportunities to spend time in real villages (including staying overnight) for a first-hand experience of the cultures, traditions and daily life. This is an option pretty much everywhere in Malawi, and one well worth taking.”
There’s also much to see in Malawi’s history, beginning with the pre-history remains of the Karonga district and the Stone Age rock paintings near Dedza. The Cultural & Museum Centre at Karonga is well worth a visit. Elsewhere, the colonial period is preserved in buildings dating from the David Livingstone era and the defeat of the Arab slave trade is well documented in the museums of Blantyre. Among other museums around the country are a Lake Museum at Mangochi, a mission museum at Livingstonia and a postal services museum near Zomba.

Other destinations
Liwonde National Park – 550km² of unspoiled forest along the shores of the Shire River. The national park is best approached from the town of Liwonde. A half-hour boat ride up the Shire will show some of the remarkable wildlife of the region, especially hippos, elephant, and fish eagles.
Ntchisi Forest Reserve – stunning rainforest in rural, untouched area
Majete Wildlife Park
Mount Mulanje is the highest peak south of Kilimanjaro and a favourite among climbers attempting to reach Sapitwa Peak, the tallest of Mulanje’s peaks.
Nyika National Park – Malawi’s biggest national park is on the 1800m high Nyika Plateau

GET IN 
By plane. Malawi’s largest international airport is in Lilongwe, although there are also some flights from Blantyre to regional destinations. Most travellers connect via Johannesburg (South Africa), Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) or Nairobi (Kenya).
Swift Air is a privately owned airline operating flights between Johannesburg, Blantyre and Lilongwe. It operates a Boeing 737 aircraft.
The previous international departure tax of USD30 is now included in the airfare.
Nyassa Air Taxi has a shuttle service from USD280 per person from Mfuwe to Lilongwe.
Budget carrier, FastJet, used to offer cheap airfares from Lilongwe to Dar es Salaam. But it has stopped flying this route.
By train. There are trains twice a week from Blantyre to Cuamba and Nampula in northern Mozambique, although a 77km stretch of track between the Mozambique border and Cuamba is out of commission and must be covered by truck.
“Trains are no longer running in Malawi. Minibuses are doing all the stretches of road, and you can catch trains in Mozambique.
By boat. A ferry runs twice a week from Likoma Island to Cobuè and Metangula in Mozambique.
By car. The main road (M1) runs from the northern border (Kaporo) through Karonga, Mzuzu, Lilongwe and finally to Mchinji and is in excellent shape. There is an excellent road from Lilongwe to Mchinji on the Zambian border (120km).
By bus. To get into Malawi from Mozambique, in the south, one can take the bus from Tete (north-west Mozambique) to Zobwe. After crossing, take another bus from the border to Blantyre. This crossing is quite hectic, and it is closed at night, so one should plan on getting there early and trying to keep it cool with all the border hawkers.
Direct buses run from Lusaka, Zambia to Lilongwe, but are best avoided (or done in stretches) if 18-20 hours on a bus doesn’t sound like your idea of a good time. There is also a minibus from Mbeya in Tanzania to the border. From the border in Malawi Side, take a taxi to Karonga. The cost is around MWK400-500 depending on negotiation. From Karonga bus station, take a bus or minibus to other destinations in Malawi. Bus is cheaper than minibus. The easiest way take a direct bus from Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania to Mzuzu or Lilongwe.”
Note that there are NO direct buses from Mbeya to Malawi although scammers in Mbeya bus station will tell you so, and sell you tickets. You must take a bus to the border and walk across.
By thumb. It is very easy to get into Malawi from the border with Tanzania by thumb. Because of the enormous amount of people importing cars from Dar es Salaam, and the fact that there is only one good road south, all cars and trucks are going the same way. As always with hitchhiking in Africa, most people will expect some kind of payment, but it will most likely be cheaper than public transport. If coming from Dar es Salaam, get a bus that goes to Malawi, like the Taqwa, and buy a ticket to the Kasumulu Border only. If you don’t manage to get a ride onwards you can always jump back on the bus which waits the whole day at the border for Customs checks. The best place to wait is the entry gate at left side of the building (coming from Tanzania) where all cars have to pass through. That’s the same side where you have to get your visa. A lot of friendly people, people waiting for their cars to be allowed in or even the police will be very friendly and offer to help you find a ride. Lilongwe will probably cost around MWK4000-5000 (€10 / USD13). Just don’t tell any police checkpoints that you are paying your driver. They will see it as an illegal taxi business on the driver’s part and fine him between MWK5000-10000 on the spot.

GET AROUND
Compared to its neighbours, the main roads in Malawi are in surprisingly good shape and travel times between major destinations should be reasonable. The volume of traffic is low and most people drive reasonably slowly. Road travel after dark is not advisable as road markings are poor to non-existent and not all cars have headlights.
The Malawian police force has checkpoints along many of the major roadways. By and large, they are looking for illegal activities and bribes – but aren’t too much of a problem. Expect to be stopped on occasion and asked where you are going. You should not have any problems if you are polite and have the correct documentation (passport, driving licence, permission to use the vehicle, etc.) available if they ask
By car. Like most other former British colonies, traffic moves on the left in Malawi with most cars having their steering wheel on the right. Drink-driving is prohibited in Malawi. It has a zero-tolerance rule meaning that a driver must not consume any alcohol at all.
By boat. Travelling by boat is surely the most enjoyable mode of getting around in Malawi. The Ilala ferry runs north from Monkey Bay to Chilumba (departs F at 10:00, arrives Su 18:30), and back southbound on the same route (departure Chilumba on Monday at 02:00, arriving at Monkey Bay on Wednesday at 14:00). Prices are rising with every year, but so is the ferry’s reliability: some years back (before its privatization) it was perfectly normal to arrive a day late sometimes. The Ilala thus connects Likoma Island twice a week with the mainland, and the much closer Cobuè in Mozambique, respectively.
By plane
Air Malawi flies small propeller planes between the three big cities of Lilongwe, Mzuzu and Blantyre.
Nyassa Air Taxi is by far the preferred choice to fly guests in and around Malawi.
Swiftair operates scheduled domestic flights between Lilongwe, Mzuzu, Karonga and Blantyre on a twin-engine, dual-crew Beechcraft 1900
By bus. “Luxury” buses, medium-sized buses, and minibuses all service Malawi. They vary in comfort and price. Vehicle conditions can be very poor and road accidents are relatively common.
Probably the best national coach services are provided by AXA Bus Company. They have their main office building very close the the immigration department in Lilongwe. They are also the only company with some sort of timetable which they follow very well for Malawian standards. AXA coaches go to the bigger cities of Malawi and generally don’t stop in small towns.
Other bus companies include UDK Passenger Services, National Bus Company and Restoration Express (Mostly northern region of Malawi). These buses go on a full-is-go basis. They wait for a full bus and then depart. Not much of a timetable. National Bus Company seems to have the most extensive network in the country and stops in every small town if required. UDK seems to be the fastest option, after AXA. Prices for Zomba – Lilongwe with UDK are MWK2,500 as of February 2013. Whereas AXA charges you double, for only a little more comfort.
Medium-sized buses tend to be big minibuses, and coasters, that stop everywhere just like minibuses. Their seats offer more comfort than minibus seats, although when they fill up, they fill up well and most of your comfort will be squeezed out of you by your neighbours, and their speed will drop incredibly.
By minibus. The cheapest way to get around Lilongwe is by minibus. The cost to get from the old town to the suburbs is MWK250-400 depending on the time of the day.
Unlike the general idea that minibuses fly over the road, ignoring every traffic sign. They are the slowest mode of transportation. In general, transport in Malawi is slow, but it’s not unheard of to do Lilongwe to Zomba in 7 or 8 hours on a minibus whereas most big buses do it in 5 to 6 hours. Also, minibuses are more expensive than the big buses on longer distances.
By taxi. Taxis are available in any city, whether they are licensed or not. Be prepared to negotiate as quoted prices to tourists are generally two to three times the actual going rate. Ask a friendly local or expat what the price should be. Rental cars are also available in these towns. Costs vary depending on vehicle type but expect a compact car to run about USD60/day.

TALK. The official languages of Malawi are English and Chichewa. English is widely spoken in urban areas and by the well-educated upper class, though outside of that, a few words in Chichewa will go a long way.

SEE
Malawi has a massive diversity of beautiful landscapes. The highest peaks in Malawi touch 10,000 ft (3,000m) while the lowest point is barely above sea level. This range of altitudes in a small area helps to make the landscape of Malawi one of the most varied in all Africa. It is generally a green, lush country, with plateaux, highlands, forests, mountains, plains, escarpments and dramatic river valleys.
The Rift Valley is the dominant feature, providing the vast chasm that Lake Malawi fills, and extending to te south of the country following the Shire River that drains the Lake. The flatter areas of the Rift Valley in South Malawi are home to some important wetlands, including Elephant Marsh, down in the Lower Shire Valley.
To the west of the Lake and on either side of the Shire Valley in the south is the Central African Plateau. The transition from the Rift Valley floor up to the Central African Plateau is characterized by a series of dramatic escarpments, such as at Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, a protected area of rugged, unspoiled wilderness. The Central African Plateau itself is gently undulating land between 1,600 ft (490m) and 5,000 ft (1,500m), with the occasional lake (such as Lake Chilwa) punctuated by more dramatic hills and forests.
It is the widespread highlands and forests that provide the most impressive of Malawi’s varied scenery. Up where the air is fresh and cool are clear mountain streams, heaths, rolling montane grassland and evergreen forests.
The southern part of Malawi has the best-known highlands – Mulanje Massif and Zomba Plateau. The former is a massive wilderness plateau of syenite granite rising from the Phalombe Plains. It has many peaks, including the highest in both the country and the whole of central Africa: Sapitwa, at 3,000m (10,000 feet). The tea estates that stretch west of Mulanje as far as Thyolo, are also wonderfully scenic. Zomba Plateau is not as high as Mulanje, but impressive. It is slab-like with a gently undulating plateau top which is accessible by road.
The Dedza-Kirk Highlands extend the rise from the Rift Valley on its western edge between Blantyre and Lilongwe. The northern part of these highlands is marked by the Dedza-Salima Forest Reserve and then the Thuma Forest Reserve. South-west of Lilongwe, the Dzalanyama Forest Reserve covers a range of hills at the border with Mozambique. The Dowa Highlands, north of Lilongwe, have their most notable peaks at Dowa and the Ntchisi Forest Reserve.
The Viphya Highlands – undulating hills swathed in evergreen forests – stretch north-south in north Malawi and reach the edge of the Rift Valley. Finally, in north Malawi is the Nyika Plateau, a rolling whaleback grassland plateau unique in Africa. Much of this highest and most extensive high plateau surface in central Africa is gazetted as the Nyika National Park.

DO
For a small country, Malawi has a quite remarkable array of activities to offer its visitors. The magnificent Lake Malawi is a haven for boat activities and water sports, as well as having some of the best freshwater diving sites in the world, right in Nkhata Bay. Eight land-based national parks and wildlife reserves offer all types of safaris in a wide variety of natural wilderness environments.
Liwonde National Park, along the Shire River, has hippos (including an albino one!), crocodiles, lions, elephants and even leopards (apparently). The mixed terrain and varied landscapes also provide for excellent outdoor activities, including trekking and mountain biking, particularly in the highland areas.
Those seeking cultural experiences are also well served by sites of historical interest and simple village visits to meet the ever-smiling Malawians in their daily life. You can visit the Carlsberg factory in Blantyre, climb Mt. Mulanje (a series of high hills, and mountains – making a good trek), drive up or climb Zomba Plateau, go horseback riding in Kande or Nyika, or just relax on the beaches of Cape Maclear.

EAT 
Traditional Malawian food revolves around one staple, maize, served in one form, nsima (n’SEE-ma). Nsima is a type of thick porridge, rolled into balls with your right hand and dipped into a variety of stews known as relishes. Those who can afford them eat relishes of beef, chicken or fish, but the many who can’t make do with beans, tiny dried fish (usipa), pumpkin leaves (chibwabwa) and other vegetables. At breakfast, nsima can be served watered down into a soup, maybe with a little sugar. Local restaurants will serve nsima and relish for less than MWK2000 (USD3).
Food options in the major cities of Lilongwe and Blantyre are good. Fast food — including burgers, pizza, and fried chicken — is very popular in Malawi. For sit-down meals, ethnic eateries (thanks to a significant ex-pat population) are popular. Do note that, in many restaurants, pork products are not served to accommodate the Muslim population.
Outside the larger cities, however, you might be a little underwhelmed with food options. Along the major roadways, you will find “tuck shops” featuring packaged cookies or Take Away Meals — meat pies or sausage rolls, for instance — which may or may not satisfy you.
Finally, in terms of hygiene outside the major cities, you are unlikely to find a proper washroom with running water. You will probably be given a bowl of water, a piece of soap, and a (damp) towel. Therefore, some travellers bring small bottles of anti-bacterial hand soap with them.
Drink. Tap water in major cities like Lilongwe, Blantyre, Zomba and Mzuzu is generally safe. Ask at the lodge/house you’re at. Some travellers with weaker stomachs may be advised to avoid this drinking water. Bottled water is plentiful in all the major shops.
Soft drinks. A traditional local drink worth trying is maheu, a somewhat gritty and vaguely yogurty but refreshing beverage made from maize meal. Factory-produced maheu is sweet, comes in plastic bottles and is available in a variety of flavours including banana, chocolate and orange, while homemade versions are usually unflavored and less sweet.
Alcohol. The only beers you will generally find are brewed in Blantyre by Carlsberg, and its products are available in restaurants and stores throughout the country. A normal Carlsberg is known as a ‘green’, but also comes as Special Brew, Stout, Classic, Elephant, Light or Kuche Kuche. You can also buy imported drinks such as Heineken, Kronenbourg, Smirnoff Ice, Barcadi Breezer and some ciders in certain bars. Malawi also produces it’s own spirits – notably Malawi Vodka, Malawi Gin, Malawi Rum, Gold Label Brandy and the cane spirit Powers. Malawi Gin & Tonic is a very nice, popular expat drink in the country.

STAY SAFE
Malawi is not known as a particularly dangerous travel destination for Western foreigners and expatriates. Just beware of being overcharged and cheated.
Muggings and robberies have occurred in the larger cities, most especially Lilongwe, as well as in some notorious places along the main tourist routes. It is advisable to avoid walking alone at night. If you go out for the evening, make sure you know how you’re going back home. Car jackings happen occasionally so be sure to keep windows shut and doors locked during evening and night journeys (though night driving is not advised – most cars have broken headlights and Malawians tend to walk in the middle of the road at night) and exercise reasonable caution as in any foreign city or rural area. Roads are less safe because many drivers are unlicensed and inexperienced and many vehicles are not inspection-ready; there is also the factor of drunk driving, especially in the evenings so be on the side of caution.
More recently there has been a lot of pickpockets operating in nightclubs and bars. Just exercise caution, don’t bring too much money and cameras etc. 10 beers is no more than MWK10000, so don’t bring hordes of cash with you.
Homosexuality is officially banned by the law, and homosexual and transgender couples should exercise discretion when traveling to Malawi. It took a presidential pardon to release a couple recently arrested for “homosexuality” (in reality, one of the persons involved was transgender) and sentenced to 14 years of hard prison labour.

STAY HEALTHY
As with its neighbouring countries, malaria can be a problem. The lake is freshwater and is prone to bilharzia, especially in the Cape Maclear area. Symptoms of bilharzia can take months to surface, and neither treatment nor tests will have any effect until around two months after being exposed. The treatment for bilharzia is often one dose of praziquantel following blood, urine and fecal tests confirming infection. Some areas of the lake have been treated against bilharzia recently, though. Ask the locals if the water is suitable for swimming, mentioning bilharzia, and they will be able to help you.
The adult HIV prevalence in the country is at 14% or 1 in 7 adults.
Cholera is endemic in Malawi.

RESPECT 
Malawi has both patriarchal and matriarchal ethnicities and cultures. In the cities, men tend to be more respected than women, but the reverse might be true in the rural villages depending on ethnicity.
As a foreigner, you should be aware of being overcharged and cheated. Even in very local markets with no tourists, some people will try to raise the price of the simplest snacks or vegetables. Foreign women will be constantly harassed and shouted at by Malawian men. Some Malawians are friendly and some are not. Accommodation is extremely poor in general compared to the same price range in neighbouring African countries
Malawians, especially those from very rural areas where they don’t see many whites, can be quite curious when they do come upon a white traveller. To a Western mindset, this might be interpreted as unnecessarily staring at you or talking about you in front of you. Be prepared to be greeted by kids yelling mzungu, mzungu! and to answer lots of questions about yourself. Even relatively mundane items like mechanical pencils can draw a crowd of onlookers.
Finally, when meeting a Malawian — even to ask a question — you should always say hello and ask how they are. Properly greeting a Malawian is very important. They are uncomfortable with the Western notion of simply “getting to the point.” Courtesy is a must, at all times, because not being courteous is to show disrespect.