Burundi March 18-23, 2023
Burundi is a small country in East Africa, although it has some cultural and geographical ties with Central Africa. It is surrounded by Rwanda, Tanzania and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Burundi covers 27,834 km² with an estimated population of almost 12 million. Although the country is landlocked, much of the south-western border is adjacent to Lake Tanganyika, one of the deepest lakes in the world.
Burundi is one of the ten least developed countries in the world and it has the lowest per capita GDP of any nation in the world. Cobalt and copper are among the nation’s natural resources. Other resources include coffee, sugar and tea.
Burundi possesses all the elements of a young nation with ancient traditions that constitute its very rich culture.
Burundi is an off-the-beaten-path destination for most visitors to East Africa, and one should consider the cost/benefit calculation before travelling to this friendly, if limited in options destination. Comforts found in Rwanda will be much harder to come by here. However, most of the higher-end hotels will be able to provide most modern conveniences.
The greatest irritation for travellers in the summer 2022 will likely be the petrol shortage.
Importantly, while the government has tried to crack down on it, the black market currency exchange remains strong. The difference is close to 50%. As of summer 2022, the exchange rate is approximately 1 USD to 3200 Burundian Francs.
Burundi, sees very few Western tourists, especially overlanders driving their cars. Burundi is a small, densely settled country, but its landscape is spectacular, with endless lines of steep mountainsides terraced right to the top. Fields are a striking mosaic of colours. The people are friendly and welcoming. Remember to drive on the right side of the road after months of driving on the left.
Staring, begging, police expect bribes, an easy-going country. But depressing, as not much seems to work well, and there is no real sense that the country is developing in any meaningful way. The lives of the people are hard, and the lives of their children and grandchildren will likely continue to be equally difficult. Still, the smiles on people’s faces, the exotic birds and misty mountain slopes, and the feeling of being on the Roof of Africa make it all worthwhile.
The landscape is like Rwanda, with endless lush rolling green hills – the biggest attraction in the country, the impossibly convoluted contours and mountain ridges of a country at more than 1600 metres above sea level. The pattern of farm fields on the steep slopes was mesmerizing, and the endless vistas of serried ranks of distant ranges.
Capital. Gitega
Largest City. Bujumbura
Official languages. Kirundi, French, English
Ethnic groups. 85% Hutu, 14% Tutsi, 1% Twa, ~3,000 Europeans, ~2,000 South Asians
Religion. 93.4% Christianity (63.7% Roman Catholic, 25.2% Protestant, 4.5% Other Christian), 4.3% Traditional faiths, 2.1% Islam
History. Kingdom 1680-1966, Part of German East Africa 1890-1916, Part of Ruanda-Urindi, Independence from Belgium July 1962, Republic 1966
Area. 27,834 km2 (10,747 sq mi) (142nd)
Population. 11,865,821 (77th), Density. 401.6/km2 (1,040.1/sq mi) (20th)
GDP (PPP). Total. 11,865,82 (77th). Per capita. 8,053,574 (193rd)
GDP (Nominal) Total $3.6 billion [7] (173th) Per capita. $292[7] (192th)
Gini. 39.2 (medium)
HDI. .426 (187th)
Currency. Burundian Franc (BIF). 1US$ = 2,075BIF; 1CA$ = 1,508 xe.com March 2023
Black Market Money (note this constantly changing), March 2023 1US$ = 3850BIF
Driving side. Right
Calling code. +257
Visa. Two types of visas are available at Bujumbura airport and (in theory, but with problems in reality) at borders. A 3-day transit visa costs USD40.
Visa on Arrival. A multiple entry 1-month visa costs US$90 on arrival. Give them your passport to register, pay in cash (change possible) and get the full-page visa. The put it on my observation page!
In general, visas can be obtained at consulates and at embassies. The embassy in Kigoma is particularly helpful if travelling from Tanzania.
Money. Burundian franc (BIF). Black market – bring cash. Very few places accept credit cards.
Official rate of 2075 BIF. Black market rate 3850 (Forex in Bugumbura).
No ATMs work for foreign cards and would be dumb with black market money as you lose almost 50% immediately. As of March 2023, the government has been tolerating black market money (for example, the Forex is an office in downtown Bugumbura). I exchanged US$100 and got a thick wad of money – the largest denomination in Burundi is 10,000 BF, about $US2.75
SIM. Lumitel – SIM card 10,000, 6GB data 20,000BIF. Done in 15 minutes and relatively fast data.
OBSERVATIONS
1. Poverty is everywhere but seemed especially worse in the south near the Source of the Nile. 2% of the population controls almost all the economy. Imagine being poor in the poorest country in the world! Most of these people subsist on their small agricultural plots and there is little informal economy. Unusually for poor countries were everyone is very clean, they are unusually dirty, especially the kids.
In each town, there were an unusual number of men sitting around doing nothing. The ones working are hauling freight on their bicycles, driving bicycle taxis, motorcycle taxis or ordinary taxis. The only vehicles are small share vans that provide cheap transportation.
Everyone seems to have either a machete or hoe in their hand.
2. Deforestation. Only the very tops of mountains had any native forest. Forest has been lost to charcoal production and to satisfy the daily needs of the people who appear to spend a major of their day gathering wood. Most is very thin bush. I presume they aren’t using larger wood because it doesn’t work well in their small braziers and is easy to cut down using machetes.
3. Petrol. All petrol comes from Tanzania and storage is limited. Even though Bujumbura has many gas stations, only one seems to have gas at any one tome. Lineups are prodigious, often over a kilometre long.
4. Alcohol. Burundian men are big drinkers. Alcohol stores are more common than markets. Our houseboy cannot be given any money because he immediately goes down to the corner and buys booze. Last time he was arrested by the police.
Day 1 Sat Mar 18,
Flight Dhaka to Bujumbura, Burundi – Vistara and Ethiopian Airlines
Dhaka-New Delhi@10:15-12:35 UK182 / DEL-Addis Abba@02:45-06:55 ET687 / ADD- BJM@11:30-13:25 ET811. ET0719300795530.
I was quite happy with Bangladesh until the airport – poor restaurants, the exchange people paid much less even after their commission, at immigration my visa said Mar 16 (even though it was a 30-day visa, at entry when asked how long I was staying, I said 10 days and she put March 16 on my visa!!!). I was supposed to pay a fine but the officer let me off and then stamped in the centre of a page. Security didn’t happen after immigration but at the gate and took so long I didn’t have a chance to even sit down.
In Delhi airport, I could not transit until Ethiopian came to the transit desk and was told that could be 3-4 hours but took 10. Transits are not done generally but by specific airlines.
Wifi was free at kiosks throughout the airport using a coupon. I put out my sleeping pad and slept for a few hours.
At the International security, they took my 2 lighters, 2 pairs of scissors and my expensive e-cigarette (all things that I had gone through security in over 40 countries with no issues).
I had a 4-hour layover in ADD.
BURINDI – WEST (Bujumbura, Makamba, Bururi, Mwaro, Kayanza)
Borders: Burundi (lake), Burundi-Congo Democratic Republic, Burundi-Rwanda, Burundi-Tanzania
I was met at the airport by AT who took me downtown to exchange money at the Forex, get a lighter, milk and coffee and a SIM card (Lumitel).
One of the biggest problems in Burundi is gas. Only one station in Bujumbura tends to have gas at any one time and lineups are blocks long, and one has to sit in line for 1-2 hours to get gas. AT needed gas and drove to 4 other stations and all had none.
ON. AT AirBnB. In AT’s private house, he has 3 bedrooms all with an ensuite, kitchen and great garden. CA$29. At was super nice and very helpful driving me around town to get my SIM, money, and some groceries.
Also staying here Chen Micha, a 28=year-old Israeli woman. We had long conversations. She is here after a few months in East Africa on an adventure to see the world. She is a You Tuber (Coco Girl) who posts interesting videos about her travels and has 90,000 followers. She earns an amazing income from them.
Cars travel very fast in Bujumbura. VIPs are escorted at high speed by trucks loaded with soldiers driving crazy fast.
BUJUMBURA is the economic capital, largest city and main port of Burundi. It ships most of the country’s chief export, coffee, as well as cotton and tin ore. Bujumbura was formerly the country’s normal capital. In late December 2018, Burundian president Pierre Nkurunziza announced that he would follow through on a 2007 promise to return Gitega to its former political capital status, with Bujumbura remaining as the economic capital and centre of commerce. A vote in the Parliament of Burundi made the change official on 16 January 2019, with all branches of government expected to move to Gitega within three years.
History. Bujumbura grew from a small village after it became a military post in German East Africa in 1889. After World War I it was made the administrative centre of the Belgian League of Nations mandate of Ruanda-Urundi. Since independence, Bujumbura has been the scene of frequent fighting between the country’s two main ethnic groups, with Hutu militias opposing the Tutsi-dominated Burundi army.
Bujumbura is on the north-eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika, the second deepest lake in the world after Lake Baikal.
Climate tropical savanna climate bordering on a hot semi-arid climate (BSh). There are distinct seasons – wet season October to April. Due to its altitude, average temperatures are constant with the highs of 29 °C
Since the 1993 ethnic violence in Burundi, the central market houses the largest variety of merchandise in the city, with stores that sell a wide range of goods.
Intwari stadium used for football games, is the country’s largest stadium with 22,000 seats.
Transport. Public transport is taxis, mini-buses, locally known as the Hiace and taxi-motos (motorcycle taxis) and taxis-vélos (bicycle taxis).
Long-distance travel uses Hiace full-size vans, which travel regularly across Burundi. Bujumbura’s main bus terminal is located by the Central Market.
Bujumbura International Airport (BJM). In the NM Architectural Delights series, this has 4 domes and a large circular area on one side. Despite its futuristic look on the outside, inside it is a typical small African airport.
Bujumbura City Market. With a muddy dirt central area, there are rather menial small shops around the perimeter selling only local products and some produce.
In the evening I walked down to the highway to see the night life. Many young Burundianas were sitting out drinking and socializing. Most of the stores sold mostly alcohol.
Day 2 Sun Mar 19
I woke up to a very quiet house. AT had gone to a friend’s place for the night. I walked down to the beach and lake and bought two large avocados for 50¢ for breakfast.
AT had arranged a car to go to the national park and see the sites in Bujumbura.
Le lac Tanganyika Tentative WHS (09/05/2007). Lake Tanganyika is the oldest lake in the African Rift Valleys and the second largest & deepest lake in the world. It is known for its over 250 Cichlid fish species. The lake is shared between four countries – Tanzania, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Burundi, and Zambia.
AT’s house is 150 m from Caravene Beach which is on the lake. There are several shops, a small market and many food stalls.
I walked down to the beach and the lake. At 09:30, lots of kids were swimming a many young people were playing football. The tide line was unfortunately lined with garbage.
At arrived at about 11 and drove me around to see sites in Bujumbura.
Cathédrale Regina Mundi (Cathedral of the Queen of the World) is a Catholic cathedral that appears on a stamp issued on December 18, 1961. On a Sunday morning, the church was packed with at least 100 standing outside. All were dressed in their finery – the women in their colourful dresses and all the men in their suits. It is a plain three-nave church with arches separating the three.
Monument of National Unity. Built as a symbol of reconciliation after many years of hostility between Hutu and Tutsi, Monument de l’Unite serves as a site of great historical and architectural importance for the Burundi nation. The monument’s notable epitaph reads: “Dusenyere Mugozi Umwe ku,” which means “We gather under one rope.” Erected on Mount Vugizo, this landmark includes views of the city and the northern part of Lake Tanganyika, making it a popular photographic spot.
Geological Museum of Burundi. Permanently closed. Not worth going to when open.
La réserve naturelle de la Rusizi Tentative WHS (09/05/2007). This park is formed on the delta of the Rusizi River just before it empties into Lake Tanganyika. In 1980, the Park extended over the provinces of Bubanza and Bujumbura and includes 2 sectors: the Palmeraie sector – has false palms, with a fruit in the form of seeds with a shell whose core has the colour of ivory. It is also called “vegetable ivory”. The Rusizi Palm groves are on the Cibitoke Road 10km from Bujumbura.
The 500ha Delta sector has Dandro swans and is a breeding ground for migratory bird species. Natural ponds left by the Rusizi meanders are a paradise for birds which come there by the hundreds and feed themselves by dive-fishing.
Antelopes and hippopotamuses in quest of grazing land. Crocodiles river banks.
The town of Gutamba is along the highway along the length of the park. There were many bicycle taxis with a strong back carrier where people sit (cost 10¢). We drove down to the DRC border and then returned to the park. From the entrance, the only real way to see things is to hire an expensive boat to go down the river. The path the extends into the park gives little access as it is flooded. We saw a hippo from the bridge.
ON DT BnB. Another night at this beautiful house.
At about 6 pm, I had a nap and woke up at 01:30. The power was out and I wandered out to the patio with my headlight. My dinner was still sitting on the dining room table and my phone and power bank (but unusually not my computer) were gone. I looked all over and couldn’t understand how anyone could have penetrated the large gate and the razor wire surrounding the house. I spent a tortured 5 hours looking everywhere. I couldn’t find my hotspot and was sure that I thief had entered somehow (the hotspot shuts off automatically). I went out at 7 and they were sitting on the couch on the patio – John had put them away for safe keeping. I thanked him endlessly (this would have presented many difficulties to continuing travel, and buying a new phone and power bank, the latter difficult in this challenged country) and gave him 10,000 BF (about $2.75).
Day 3 Mon Mar 18
I walked down the street to buy some avocados, not where she was yesterday and eventually had a BF of beans and chapattis. There is a large primary school across from the house and the disparity between all the privileged kids in their school uniforms and the little barefoot kid in rags walking beside me was grinding. For the first time in years, I gave a child money, only 1000 BF (10¢).
I planned to rent a car. DK arrived quite late and we wasted a lot of time finding a car rental. In the first place, it took her 30 minutes to come to the office and then suggested that I needed a 4WD to go outside Bujumbura and it was expensive (150,000 for Bujumbura and 200,000 to go outside town). We then went to a place with 4WD, Walter Costa at Michelin Tires, costa_walter@yahoo.com). I talked to Fidel who speaks good English and was a very easy-going guy who was fine with me not going with a driver (contact Michelin Dealership – Fidel WA +211 79833640), there was no contract (I wrote my name, passport number, driver licence and said that I would attempt to not damage the car). It was an old Toyota Pajero and cost 150,000 BF per day. The gas tank was full and it had a second tank so buying gas was not the problem I envisaged. I gave him US$100. The odometer was stuck at 277, 744km, the windshield wipers left a large streak in the middle, the headlights were so dim that I had to use brights all the time and a check light came on. Of course, there was no manual but the icon looked like a tire with low pressure. It disappeared with some bumps and when I swerved, but eventually was on all the time. The light itself was not so bad, but the high-pitched whine from the check light was irritating. There was no manual to check the meaning, the tires looked ok and it drove well, so I stopped worrying about it.
The road to the monument was the worst I drove on – many potholes, long sections of rough dirt, a lot of slow traffic and very slow through a town the whole way.
Livingston-Stanley Monument. Ten kilometres south of Bujumbura at Mugere, this is a stone marking where David Livingstone and H. M. Stanley spent two nights on 25-27 November 1871 as guests of Chief Mukamba during their joint exploration of the northern end of Lake Tanganyika.
This is a large boulder a few km from the ocean with the inscription incised on the east side. There were also two large brightly painted figures. The old guy wanted to be paid to open the gate, I had no change so overpaid with 10,000 BF.
LIVINGSTONE
STANLEY
25-XI-1871
I passed two large troops of soldiers running on the road.
Le rugo traditionnel du Mugamba (09/05/2007). A country of hills, Burundi has 11 traditional regions. The Mugamba region is the mountainous (2,300 m on average) watershed of the Nile and Congo. Annual temperatures between 14° and 17°C has resulted in adobe homes. This rugo constitutes a dwelling unit of all the members of the same family and is surrounded by a fence (urugo) made of bamboo. The round main house is surrounded by two large enclosures, the front yard (for cattle, a hearth in the center protects them animals from flies, and a pole against which the cows rub) and the rear yard. Dwellings for teenagers, members of the closest family and visitors. Next to it are granaries and a place for the worship of Kiranga (intermediary between the Supreme Being and men).
These dwellings are distinguished by their original construction made by men. The framework are poles linked by a horizontal torus (ikoma ) made of sheathed reed cores and bamboo cords. Inside the circle of poles, the ceiling is braided in the shape of a dome made up of a spiral sausage of basketwork lifted as it is braided. This ceiling is held up to 3 to 5m using pillars and covered with thatch cut by men in the marshes.
The interior has bamboo partitions dividing up a vestibule, a stable for the young calves, and an alcove for the parents. A hearth is in the middle and a rack for pots and firewood is built above the hearth. Also a dresser for milk jugs, butter churns and various baskets.
Nothing was resembling this where both Google Maps and MapsMe directed me.
Shortly after Mugamba, I turned east to go to The Source of the Nile (118 km) and the road started up into the mountains – very twisty with no straight sections, and thankfully fewer potholes. It seemed that any tough car could drive this (with high clearance to deal with some of the deep caverns on the road). There were a few large semi-trailers. I continued after dark for 1 ½ hours but finally had to stop because of all the steam coming off the road. The final decision was made when I lost the road completely, was driving on grass and saw the road only after a vehicle passed. Villages became more rare, often with only one or two lights. People and bicycles were walking on the side adding to the complications. It started to rain.
I had bought my air mattress, sleep sheet and pillowcase so was prepared to sleep in the vehicle with all the seats flat (but barely enough room to stretch out). As it was only 8 pm, I killed time writing this and finally went to sleep parked on the grass on the side of the road. There were surprisingly no mosquitos. It was quite cool and as I had not brought my sleeping bag, I depended on my down vest/wool shirt on top and my down jacket over my legs to stay warm in my sleep sheet.
It rained heavily in the morning.
Day 4 Mon Mar 20
I was up at 5 and off by 5:30 to drive the last 55 km to Gasumo.
Mount Heha. At 2,684 m, it is the highest mountain in Burundi and the highest point in the Burundi Highlands mountain range. It is approximately 20 km to the east of Lake Tanganyika and about 30 km to the southeast of Bujumbura. It has a long north-running ridge extending from the top.
Gasumo, la source la plus méridionale du Nil (09/05/2007). At Gasumo, a trickle of water coming out of the northern flank of Mount Gikizi is seen as the southernmost source of the (White) Nile. It was discovered in 1937 by the German explorer Waldecker. A pyramid that symbolizes this long-sought-after discovery was established in 1938, on the top of Mount Gikizi.
Rutovu, 114 km from Bujumbura, on the Bujumbura-Ijenda-Matana road, see Nyakazu Break to the east, Karera Falls, Tanganyika Lake panoramas at Vyanda and Kabonambo, and tea plantations of Teza or Rwegura.
The road to here was great with only 3 potholes in the entire 55kms and I actually got to 80km/hr a few times. Park in the large parking lot and walk down good stone stairs to the “source”, a small pipe draining into a long blue-tiled basin. Then climb up the ridge to see the pyramid, a nice stone structure with a plaque in French. There are many attractive round-stone picnic tables and a gazebo. The guy in the lot charged a tax but would not tell me the price. 5000 BF
Mont Gikizi. At 2,145 m, it is one of the highest mountains in Burundi. The source of the Ruvyironza River comes from Mount Kikizi. It was identified by Burkhart Waldecker as one of the southernmost sources of the White Nile. On a promontory of the mountain is a pyramid which would have been erected by Waldecker, when he found the source.
Muhweza hot springs are just a few kilometres from the Source of the Nile, once upon a time it was very pretty, but now all its surrounding forest has been cut down to make charcoal, leaving the pools exposed, clogged with debris and surrounded by smouldering ruins.
OTHER DESTINATIONS
Les paysages naturels sacrés de Muramvya, de Mpotsa et de Nkiko-Mugamba (09/05/2007). The king’s successor was enthroned according to a very specific ritual at a drinking trough in the Gahororo stream, located near the confluence between the Mucece and Nyavyamo rivers. The new sovereign crossed the Nyavyamo river seated on the bull Semasaka, and was thus proclaimed king of Burundi.
After the enthronement, the king would reside in his “capital” with a royal palace, the residences of the princes and the staff, the places of worship, the granaries and the spaces for the cattle and included three main courtyards. The main political capitals were found in Mbuye, Muramvya, Bukeye and Kiganda. It was in these capitals that the king celebrated the annual sowing festival.
The Royal Domain of Mbuye was the royal residence of Kings Ntare Rugamba, Mwezi Gisabo and Mutaga Mbikije and played an important role in the rites of enthronement, for the national festival of sowing, in the preservation of the royal drums and the education of young princes and princesses. At the beginning of the 20th century, this area gradually lost its influence and the monarchy ceased to exist with the proclamation of the Republic of Burundi.
Queen’s necropolis on the summit of Mpotsa where a palace was built
The Royal necropolises of Nkiko-Mugamba, are far from their capital in the northwest of Burundi. The tombs of the first four kings are located at Budandari in the commune of Kabarore.
XL: Makamba Province
GISENYL
World of Nature
Rumonge Nature Reserve
Vyanda Natural Reserve – This is a forest reserve that can be accessed from the town of Rumonge. The main attraction is chimpanzees. Facilities for visitors are almost non-existent but if you go to the INECN office (remember to pronounce it the French way when asking for directions, roughly “ENCN” pronounced the English way) in Rumonge you should be able to organize a visit. It’s generally set up for people with their own transport but a visit by local transport can be arranged. Expect to pay BIF10,000 for entry and guide if you see chimps, BIF5,000 if you don’t. You should be able to arrange transport from Rumonge for around BIF15,000 for a return trip. The chimps here are not habituated to humans so don’t come expecting the close encounters that are possible in some places.
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Burundi – East (Rutana, Gitega, Ngozi, Muyinga, Ruyigi)
Borders: Burundi-Rwanda, Burundi-Tanzania
From the Source of the Nile, I ignored all of Google Maps suggestions (all on terrible muddy dirt tracks, and took RN7, a good road except for Intermittent deep potholes.
This is a very impoverished area – charcoal kilns, small brick plants (very rough small red bricks), small fields of corn, potato, bananas and almost everyone walking on the road on their way to school. Some of the few bicycles were ridden but most were used for freight – bananas, thin sticks in bundles, bricks, an amazingly hard job when hills are involved. Often two people are pushing. The people were very poor dressed poorly, all in flip-flops, all staring at the mzungu. I didn’t stop but if I did, I would have been surrounded by a crowd of staring people.
Gathering wood is a big job here every day. Cut with a machete, the sticks are small bushes, tied in bundles and carried on heads (women and children seem to do this most) or on bicycles.
Then it was a 14 km rough drive to Karera Waterfall on s dirt, rock covered in small rocks, mud from last night’s rain, water holes, and one water bar and two steep, rocky sections that would cause problems for a low clearance car.
Les chutes de la Karera et la faille de Nyakazu (09/05/2007). Karera Falls are on 3 levels falling 80 m and 50 m with 6 branches.
Stop at the entrance to the waterfall road in the nearby town (3.8 km to the falls) and pay $20. I made a foolish mistake and used the black market rate of 3900 instead of the official rate of 2.070 BF. But on return, I stopped again, admitted my mistake and got back 30,000 BF. So the final cost was 48,000 BF, one of the more expensive waterfalls anywhere.
The waterfalls are quite lovely, double falls falling down a cliff into a small pool. I wasn’t tempted to go for a swim.
The cave to the right of the falls is a place of worship (It was tiny, not very high and underwhelming.
It was a 1 1/2 hour drive to Gitega. The road was fairly good but still had many potholes.
GITEGA is the political capital of Burundi. Located in the centre of the country, in the Burundian central plateau roughly 62 kilometres (39 mi) east of Bujumbura (the largest city and former political capital), Gitega was the seat of the Kingdom of Burundi until its abolition in 1966. In late December 2018, Burundian president Pierre Nkurunziza announced that he would follow on a 2007 promise to return Gitega its former political capital status, with Bujumbura remaining as economic capital and centre of commerce.
It lies on a broad plateau surrounded by hills, a few kilometres southwest of the confluence of the Ruvyironza and Rurubu Rivers.
History. The Germans founded the town of Gitega in 1912 back when Burundi was part of German East Africa.
Transportation. Gitega was served by Gitega Airport, which is now defunct. Gitega is served by four National Roads (Routes Nationales, RN): RN2 connects it with Bujumbura through the northwest, via Muramvya and Bujumbura Rural provinces. RN15 leads to the north of the country, towards Ngozi and continues to Rwanda, while passing through the ancient royal court of Gishora; RN12, which separates from RN15 on the outskirts of Gitega, heads northeast to serve the provinces of Karuzi and Muyinga. The last is RN3, which heads towards the southwest towards Rumonge and Lake Tanganyika.
National Museum of Gitega. (1955) has a good ethnographic collection, archaeology and historical photographs of the royal families of the 19th century. Some very interesting things I have not seen before, mostly ethnography. 10,000BF
After the museum, I stopped at a hotel to eat (I missed supper for the last two nights – slept through dinner at AK’s and had nowhere to eat last night).
La résidence royale du Burundi : Le cas de Gishora (09/05/2007). Burundi was a monarchy from the 15th century until 1966. Each king had capitals scattered around the country. They were more concentrated in the Muramvya region. At the end of each year, the royal court organized the sorghum sowing festival in which the ritualists of Gishora participated, among others. The royal domain of Gishora was founded in the first half of the 19th century. It is located on the top of the Gishora hill in the commune of Giheta 7 km from the town of Gitega.
Gishora has three unequal courtyards – the first courtyard holds the sacred drums. The second royal court includes the royal residence. The backyard includes the dwelling of the servants and the hut of worship.
NGOZI (pop 2008 – 39,774) is a town located in central northern Burundi, 125 km northeast of Bujumbura, and 83 km north of Gitega. Elevation 5,925 feet (1,806 m) above mean sea level.
The residents in the town and surrounding communities are primarily subsistence agriculturalists who also keep domesticated animals, primarily cattle. Crops raised include maize, sweet potatoes, coffee, bananas, cassava, beans and tea. Light industrial activities include the processing of tea and the mining of tin ore.
ON Belem Hotel. I decided to treat myself to a nice hotel. It is very popular and books out early.
Day 5 Mar 22
After seeing the east of Burundi, I returned to the west and Bujumbura stopping at the park on the way.
Le parc national de la Kibira Tentative WHS (09/05/2007). Situated at the top of the apex Zaire-Nile, with its 40,000 ha (hectares) of preserved forest land, is the largest completely untouched natural area in Burundi. Its forest constitutes a real shelter for chimpanzees, baboons, and monkeys (cercophitecus and colobus). A network of 180km of tracks and paths mainly used by guard car patrols and motorized tourists. Access to the park is made through the tea plantations of Teza and Rwegura.
I returned to DK’s place, returned the Toyota and had the rest of the day off to work on further travel arrangements. I finally did my washing, fixed my blocked bank account, faxed all the tax documents to Scotiabank for my new credit card and fixed all the problems I was having.
Day 6 Thur March 23
Up early, we left for the bus station to go to Kigali, 303 km and 8 hours.
OTHER DESTINATIONS
Le parc national de la Ruvubu Tentative WHS (09/05/2007). 50,800 ha 62 km long and 5 and 13 km wide. It is located in the lower valley of the Ruvubu River which drains almost a third of the land area of Burundi and is the southernmost tributary of the Nile basin. This park is 75% arborescent and shrubby savannah, 15% wooded, 8% grassy and 2% gallery forests. 44 species of mammals: leopard, the wild dog, the spotted hyena. 425 species of birds. Only site in Burundi with buffalo, the roan antelope, the waterbuck and the red colobus. The path network is approximately 100km and includes many observation lookouts. Non-descript, few waterbuck and some baboons and monkeys and buffalo, was completely devastated during the years of conflict.
The Nyakazu fault is a notch in the Nkoma massif which overlooks the plain and extends to the border with Tanzania. This fault is of recent tectonic origin and extends over 600 ha. It has an exceptional structure and there are historical remains of the German fort. A seasonal waterfall is more than 100 m high.
Les paysages naturels sacrés de Muramvya, de Mpotsa et de Nkiko-Mugamba (09/05/2007)
Rwihinda, lac aux oiseaux. Tentative WHS (09/05/2007). In the north of Burundi, on the border with Rwanda, a series of eight lakes, part of the watershed of the Nile River. Lake Rwihinda, called “bird lake”, is one of these eight lakes. It covers an area of 425 ha and is the place of passage and hibernation for migratory birds, about 20 species. These birds come from Europe, arrive at the site in December and return in April (crested cranes, wild ducks, fishing eagles).
The lake includes a central islet and floating peat secondary islets, the preferred habitat. place of egg laying and nesting for certain migratory birds.
XL: Northeast area (Kirundo)
Bururi Forest Nature Reserve for habituated chimpanzees – highlight. Compared to Tanzania, Rwanda and Uganda, it was USD 20 per person, less than 10% of what it costs in Gombe Stream in Tanzania or in Kibale Forest in Uganda. birds, enormous old trees and various species of monkeys (red-tailed monkeys). Located on the outskirts of Bururi Town, few visitors.
To visit the park first go to the INECN office in Bururi, pay the entry fee of BIF5,000 and arrange a guide (BIF5,000). 117 different species of birds, and 25 different species of mammals. This region is only 33km distant from Roumonge. The road through it will take you from the lakes along miles of breathtaking panoramas.
GENERAL
Talk. French and/or English, some familiarity with Swahili or the related local language,
Eat. Fresh fish from Lake Tanganyika
South Asian curried dishes, traditional rice and beans, and French-inspired European offerings. For lighter meals, samosas and skewered meats are common.
The national dish is beef or goat brochettes (kebabs) with grilled plantains (cooking bananas), available almost everywhere.
Drink. Coffee is always highly boiled for taste before serving. Burundi produces an excellent blend. Beer – Primus and Amstel
Sleep. Although accommodation in rural areas can be basic, Bujumbura has international-grade hotels, and some reasonably priced hotels that are clean and managed well. Unless it’s a holiday, there really is no need to make reservations.
We stayed indoors, little camping, rainy, and reasonably priced.
Hollywood, Bururi – 12,000 BFr (4USD)
Moonlight, Bururi – 30.000 BFr (9 USD), loud stereo
Tamotel, Gitega two nights/25,000 BFr (USD 7.50), nicest, roomy, comfortable and quiet, birds and flowers.
Ruvubu National Park – camp 20,000 BFr (USD 6); basic and decrepit, quiet, peaceful.
Roads. newly paved tarmac roads, a joy to drive very smooth, no traffic. Two sections of RN that were unpaved, barely driveable tracks, heavily gullied and only passable on motorcycles. Makamba to Bururi on RN 17 and Kampezi to near Gitega on RN 16 were truly dreadful, requiring carefully picking our way at 20 km/h in 4WD low-range, pavement for most of the rest of our time in the country, but it would have been nice to know ahead of time when we were going to be on these pistes.
People and the Economy. Burundi is one of the five poorest countries on earth, and it shows. Almost no private cars, a few motorcycles, most operating as moto-taxis. Most Burundians walk or bicycle. We watched prodigious loads of bananas, sugar cane and wood (not to mention human passengers) being pushed uphill by wiry, sweating velo-taxi drivers, while even more people walked, often with big loads balanced on their heads. Some areas, particularly just south of the new capital of Gitega, are even poorer than others, with most children in rags and houses in a dilapidated state.
This poverty brings about a lot of begging; we saw more begging, and more persistent beggars, here than in any other country – “Mzungu, give me money!” It got tiresome, dozens of young men would cluster around the vehicle, staring through the windows so thickly that we couldn’t see out past them. Less in Bururi and Gitega, the new national capital.
Most people speak French, although a handful also spoke some English.
GENERAL
History. The earliest known people to live in Burundi were the Twa, pygmy people who remain as a minority group there. The people currently known as Hutu and Tutsi moved into the region several hundred years ago and dominated it. Like much of Africa, Burundi then went through a period of European colonial rule. At the beginning of the twentieth century, Germany and Belgium occupied the region, and Burundi and Rwanda together became a European colony known as Ruanda-Urundi.
This ended with its independence from Belgium in 1962. In the decades since then, Burundi has known civil wars between the Hutu and Tutsi populations (much like the better-known genocide in Rwanda to the north), and a series of political assassinations. Peace and the (re)establishment of civil democracy took place in 2005 with a cease-fire and the election of former Hutu rebel Pierre Nkurunziza as president who intends to stand for a controversial third term.
Climate. Burundi in general has a tropical highland climate. Temperature varies considerably from one region to another as a result of differences in altitude. The central plateau enjoys pleasantly cool weather, with an average temperature of 20°C. The area around Lake Tanganyika is warmer, averaging 23°C; the highest mountain areas are cooler, averaging 16°C. Rain is irregular, falling most heavily in the north-west. Dry seasons vary in length, and there are sometimes long periods of drought. However, four seasons can be distinguished: the long dry season (June–August), the short wet season (September–November), the short dry season (December–January), and the long wet season (February–May).
GET IN
By plane. Bujumbura International Airport – Kenya Airways (Nairobi); Fly 540 (Nairobi); Rwandair Express (Kigali, Johannesburg); Ethiopian (Addis Ababa); Brussels Airlines (Brussels); Air Tanzania (Kigoma and Dar es Salaam);
By road. It is possible to take your own car into the country, but if you intend to, it is best to obtain the services of a Burundian tour guide to navigate the numerous technicalities and required ‘gifts.’ From Kigoma to Bujumbura can take between 6 and 8 hours (excluding border formalities), depending on road delays, accidents, etc.
By bus. Buses are available mainly from Bujumbura, around the central market. There are only international buses to Rwanda,DRC and Uganda. Companies include Amahoro, Belveder, Otraco and Yahoo. It is also possible to get into Burundi in the east. To do this take a bus to Kabanga (Tanzania), and from there take a shared taxi to the Burundian border. From the south, minibuses run from Kasulu to Manyovu, from where boda-bodas take you through to the Burundi border post. Shared taxis continue from there to Mabanda. Minibuses also run from Gatumba on the DRC border to Bujumbura.
By boat. You can use the ferries to travel along Lake Tanganyika, but they do not operate regularly.
Stay safe. The still active rebel group, Forces Nationales de la Libération (FNL) continues to attack government forces and civilians. Threats posed by banditry and armed robbery, as well as petty crimes, remain. Avoid travelling after dark; be aware of curfew laws. Many roads close at night as some villages and neighbourhoods, most embassies and some organizations have curfews.
There is no need to exchange large sums of money. Most everything is very cheap. $100 USD at time is all you will need. Only carry about 50,000BIF at a time (about $20USD) at markets or stores.
Homosexuality. Criminalized homosexual acts in 2009 between males; LGBT people should exercise caution when travelling to Burundi.
Stay healthy. Be careful of kiosk foods (good when it’s piping hot, better avoided in case you have a sensitive stomach) and avoid unboiled water. Need yellow fever and preferably Hepatitis A and B vaccination.
HIV infection is widespread – 18.6% in the cities and 7.5% in the countryside as of 2002.
Malaria and dengue – use a mosquito net before booking a hotel room, check it for large holes and see if it fits around the mattress. DEET 40% or more at dusk and dawn.Respect. Respect for the Burundian Elders is a requirement.
