Mozambique May 21, May 22, May 26-28, 2023.
Mozambique is a country located in southeastern Africa bordered by the Indian Ocean to the east, Tanzania to the north, Malawi and Zambia to the northwest, Zimbabwe to the west, and Eswatini and South Africa to the southwest. The sovereign state is separated from the Comoros, Mayotte and Madagascar by the Mozambique Channel to the east. The capital and largest city is Maputo.
Northern Mozambique lies within the monsoon trade winds of the Indian Ocean and is frequently affected by disruptive weather. Between the 7th and 11th centuries, a series of Swahili port towns developed on that area, which contributed to the development of a distinct Swahili culture and dialect. In the late medieval period, these towns were frequented by traders from Somalia, Ethiopia, Egypt, Arabia, Persia, and India.
The voyage of Vasco da Gama in 1498 marked the arrival of the Portuguese, who began a gradual process of colonization and settlement in 1505. After over four centuries of Portuguese rule, Mozambique gained independence in 1975, becoming the People’s Republic of Mozambique shortly thereafter. After only two years of independence, the country descended into an intense and protracted civil war lasting from 1977 to 1992. In 1994, Mozambique held its first multiparty elections and has since remained a relatively stable presidential republic, although it still faces a low-intensity insurgency distinctively in the farthermost regions from the southern capital and where Islam is dominant.
Mozambique is endowed with rich and extensive natural resources, notwithstanding the country’s economy is based chiefly on the fishery—substantially molluscs, crustaceans and echinoderms—and agriculture with a growing industry of food and beverages, chemical manufacturing, aluminum and oil. The tourism sector is expanding. South Africa remains Mozambique’s main trading partner, preserving a close relationship with Portugal[11] with a perspective on other European markets.
Since 2001, Mozambique’s GDP growth has been thriving, but the nation is still one of the poorest and most underdeveloped countries in the world,[12] ranking low in GDP per capita, human development, measures of inequality and average life expectancy.
The country’s population of around 30 million, as of 2022 estimates, is composed of overwhelmingly Bantu peoples. However, the only official language in Mozambique is the colonial language of Portuguese, which is spoken in urban areas as a first or second language by most, and generally as a lingua franca between younger Mozambicans with access to formal education. The most important local languages include Tsonga, Makhuwa, Sena, Chichewa, and Swahili. Glottolog lists 46 languages spoken in the country,[14] of which one is a signed language (Mozambican Sign Language/Língua de sinais de Moçambique).
The largest religion in Mozambique is Christianity, with significant minorities following Islam and African traditional religions.
Mozambique’s eastern coastline along the Indian Ocean is more than 1,000 km long, a fantastic draw for scuba divers, fishermen, sailors and beach lovers. The north beaches with clean water are suitable for tourism, especially those that are very far from urban centres, such as those in the province of Cabo Delgado, especially the Quirimbas Islands, and the province of Inhambane, especially the Archipelago of Bazaruto. The Inhambane Province attracts international divers because of the marine biodiversity and the presence of whale sharks and manta rays.
The sights in Mozambique range from historical attractions to natural wonders that will take your breath away. The beautiful clear blue ocean is the perfect setting for a range of water sports. The coastline stretches for 2500 km, providing an abundance of unspoiled beaches to explore. Mozambique is a vibrant country from the bustling cities to the fishing villages. The African wildlife at the reserves is amazing and provides great photographic opportunities.
Tours and Safaris, Recommended travel agents include Tours Maputo, Mozaic Travel and Dana Tours in the south, and Kaskazini in the north.
Capital. Maputo 25°57′S 32°35′E
Languages. Official Portuguese, Recognized regional languages. Makhuwa, Sena, Tsonga, Lomwe, Changana
Ethnic groups. 99% Black African, 0.8% Mestiço, 0.2% Other
Religions. 55.8% Christianity, 26.1% Traditional faiths, 17.5% Islam, 0.5% No religion, 0.3% Other
Area. 801,590 km2 (309,500 sq mi) (35th). Water 2.2%
Population. 31,693,239 (46th). Density 28.7/km2 (74.3/sq mi)
GDP (PPP). $48.0 billion (121st). Per capita $1,457 (187th)
GDP (nominal). $17.8 billion (128th). Per capita. $542 (185th)
Gini. 54.0 high
HDI. 0.446 low · 185th
Currency, Metical (MZN)
Driving. Left
Calling Code. +258
Electric plug. 2-pin is the standard.
Visa
All visitors (except citizens of Swaziland, South Africa, Tanzania, Botswana, Malawi, Mauritius, Zambia and Zimbabwe) need a visa.
VOA, Since March 2023, Mozambique has offered a VOA for 28 countries including Canada. Although it is advised to get a visa ahead of time, tourist visas are available on arrival at the country’s airports – Beira (BEW), Nampula (APL), Maputo (MPM), Pemba (POL), Tete (TET) and Vilankulo (VNX), and border crossings (there is no guarantee that officials approve the visa at the border). Visa on arrival at for a maximum stay of 30 days. They are strict about having printed confirmation of accommodation, so have at least something to show for your first few days in Mozambique.
Requirements for VOA in Mozambique.
• Accommodation Reservations for duration of stay (hard copies)
• Return air ticket (hard copies)
• US$50 (Clean note, new, no $100 bill as no change. Smaller notes are not accepted)
• LOI — can write the letter and sign yourself, must include your address, passport and visa number, phone number, purpose (tourism), and copy of your passport.
Land borders may also charge a stamping fee on entry, which is generally US$2, but is often waived if you buy your visa at the border. In addition, you must use the visa forms provided at the consulate or border as self-printed versions will not be accepted; at borders, these are free, but Mozambican embassies/consulates generally charge US$1 for the form. Visas can no longer be extended.
There is a USD $ 100-a-day fine for overstaying a visa.
Money. Medical (Meticais Nova Família, MZN), plural meticais (Mts, pronounced ‘meta-cash’). 1US$ – 68.9 MZN (May 2023 xe.com)
Note that many businesses in the tourist centers are run by South Africans and prices are often quoted in Rand (for which the usual abbreviation is ZAR).
US$, ZAR, British pounds and Euros are freely convertible at commercial rates at any bank or exchange.
There is very little black market currency exchange since the commercial exchanges offer the best market rate. You cannot exchange meticais outside Mozambique, but you can convert them back at exchanges before leaving the country. Also, you cannot buy meticais outside Moçambique.
ATMs are present throughout the country; Standard, Millennium Bim, BCI, ProCredit and Barclays. Standard accepts Visa & Mastercard, Millennium accepts all international cards including Maestro/Cirrus cards while Barclays doesn’t seem to accept any cards with great regularity.
ATMs have transaction limits on withdrawals, which vary with the bank. Millennium Bim limits withdrawals to 3,000 Mts, BCI to 5,000 and Standard Bank to 10,000; you can always insert your card again to withdraw more money. Some banks will charge you a 150 or 200 Mts withdrawal fee for international cards.
Since not all banks accept both Visa and Mastercard if possible bring both cards as some hotels may only take Visa.
Paypal is also accepted at many hotels and dive stores, particularly in tourist areas like Tofo Beach and Vilanculos. Setting up a PayPal account with your credit card takes minutes and is a convenient way to pay.
Everything in Mozambique that does not have a price attached can be bargained down to whatever you consider a reasonable price to be. Ask your hotel what fair prices may be.
No one in Mozambique, including often backpacker lodges, has changed. The 1000Mzn and 500Mzn are almost impossible to use day to day, so change them down into more manageable notes in any bank. The one exception to this rule is chapa drivers, if you find yourself running low on small bills pay for your 15Mzn fare with a 100Mzn note.
SIM cards. mCel is the state-owned provider. Others are South-African-owned Vodacom Mozambique and Movitel. Movitel has the best network (by far) in the bush. Vodacom is generally very good in most areas except North Mozambique. OK to buy credit from the hundreds of vendors on the streets but never buy SIM cards due to inflated prices.
Climate. Almost all of Mozambique falls within the tropics and as such, Mozambique features a mostly tropical climate. Two seasons, a wet season from October to March and a dry season from April to September. Rainfall is heavy along the coast and decreases in the north and south. Average temperature ranges in Maputo are from 13 to 24 °C in July and from 22 to 31 °C in February.
Along the coast, Mozambique has a warm, tropical climate. Evenings are rarely cold, except for a few nights in June and July and the rainfall isn’t too high. In summer, temperatures can soar and the humidity levels rise. Temperatures are typically higher in the north, around Pemba and the Zambezi.
The interior plains generally have a higher temperature than that of the coast and have higher rainfall throughout the year. The mountainous regions generally remain cool throughout the year.
Day 1 Sun May 21
The cheapest flight from Harare to Lilongwe, Malawi was $280 and most of the others were over $500 with several transfers and layovers. So I decided to get a bus to Blantyre (597 km, 8.5 hours) which must traverse Mozambique.
I was up at 4 and got a taxi ($7) to Roadport domestic bus station in Harare. I was unable to get an international bus to Blantyre, Malawi as the visa is VOA and they refused to wait for me. Bolt Cutter left at 06:30 with the driver idling and revving the engine for over an hour.
The plan was to arrive at the Nyamapanda border of Mozambique, get the VOA, hopefully, continue to Tete on this bus or wait for Trip Trans as they come through.
Buses to Malawi. Two companies have trips to Blantyre Malawi.
Three Stars. Trips to Lilongwe Mon, Thru and Sat @ 7 am. $50
Trip Trans. Daily buses except Saturdays @ 7 am. $40. But they require the passengers to have a Mozambique visa as the VOA at the border is a 3-4 hour wait, so refused to sell me a ticket. They advised that the only solution is to take a domestic bus (in the lot next to the international terminal. Several lines (including Timboon Coaches) leave daily from the west side of the domestic lot (6, 8, 11, 1 pm) for Nyamopanda, the Mozambique border town. $10.
Bus from Harare. It finally left at 7 am. I had a very comfortable seat three seats across at the very front. We passed through typical East African countryside – grass and bushes with a few fields of corn and some vegetable crops. There were few villages. For a short distance, we passed an area of eroded boulders and some striking steep monoliths, actually nicer than Matopo.
Zimbabwe / Mozambique border at Nyampanda/Cochemane, Mozambique.
Zimbabwe immigration: After 3 hours, at 10 am, the bus stopped at Nyampanda and I walked 800 m to Zimbabwe immigration which was relatively painless. They wanted to see my COVID-19 vaccination before they gave me a stamp.
Money change.
Mozambique (official rate 1US$ = 67 MM): One tout would only give 60. Another finally gave 65 and I changed a 100$ bill for 6,500 MM.
Malawi: (official rate 1US$ = 1,036 MK). The same tout gave me 1,400 saying that in Malawi, I would get 1,300. I changed another US$100 bill for 140,000 MK. (in Lilongwe, I eventually changed another US$100 for 1,400 MK/US$).
Mozambique immigration VOA
I tried to apply for an e-visa to Mozambique but was blocked on two issues – I didn’t know the bus registration number and it would not accept my postal code. It was not possible to get a Mozambique visa at their embassy in Harare as they insisted that a VOA was the only possibility. At Mozambique immigration, I filled out an entrance form. Immigration took photos of my COVID-19 vaccinations, passport, and Malawi visa and then wanted my accommodation in Malawi. I said that I wasn’t sure if I would make it to Malawi today and had not made a reservation. I showed her the name and address of a place I had written down to stay in Blantyre in my notebook. She took a photo of the address. I filled out the entrance form again. Then she wanted my application for my Malawi visa. She discarded files on my phone looking for it. She tried to connect me to wifi and then Bluetooth for me to send the letter. Nothing worked. I kept asking why these mattered when I had an approved Malawi visa. I filled out a different entrance form that required accommodations, repeating that it was a transit.
Finally, she gave my passport to her boss, I waited 10 minutes, then had a photo and fingerprints. After another 10 minutes my visa was approved, and I paid US$50 for a dual entry visa with a $100 bill. My passport was given to the office who affixed the full-page visa in my passport and she gave me change. This all took 2 hours.
I walked about 400 m down the road looking for a bus to Tete, 140 km away, hoping to be able to continue to Blantyre. The one bus had been waiting for a few hours and the lone passenger was getting off to find something else. Then there were 3 minivan taxis. With seats for 18 (4 bench seats with 4 each and two in the front), I bought a kid sitting in the front a beer (70 MM) to trade seats. The woman in the middle had an enormous ass and I was still squished against the door. I had my big pack between my legs and a small pack on my lap. They thankfully moved my pack to the back behind all the seats (the top ended up being all frayed from rubbing against a metal post). The back door was kept closed with a rope. Three large bags of puffed wheat were on the dash. Several cases of pop were around the gear shift. I was in the full sun with no escape. They finally packed in 18 with some infants. Then we picked up a couple with two infants. One of their kids was sitting on a young guy’s lap. Stops were frequent to let off passengers and pick up more. They were determined to have a completely packed van. Each stop was at least 5 minutes as it took so long to unpack people. A police check looked at our passports and visas.
These minivans drive very slowly especially on hills as they are so overloaded. Buses passed us. We waited behind trucks to pass. The road was full of potholes.
After two hours and 51 km, we reached the town of Changara at a crossroads. Several got off. The main driver got out to rest and a kid drove around town for 45 minutes driving up and down the highway looking for more passengers. The engine was never shut off and it idled a lot. Once I realized what was happening, I got off and sat in the shade on a chair waiting for the full van. We finally left at 3:10 after a lot of whining from me. The road direction changed from east to northeast keeping me in the full sun. At a checkpoint, the police and immigration looked at our passports individually taking 10 minutes. 10 minutes later another checkpoint, just long enough for all the big trucks we had passed to get ahead of us. We picked up another load of people – I counted 22 plus two infants and were again crammed full. We arrived at the bus terminal (Rodoviario) in Tete at 5 pm for a 12-hour day to go 300 km and 5 hours to go only 140 km from the border to Tete. 230 MM but he had no change so I paid 250.
I was able to eat an avocado and a pint of delicious coconut yogurt during the day – good as there was nothing to eat along the way or in Tete.
I swear that I will never travel in a minivan taxi again.
TETE (pop 305,722 2017) is located on the Zambezi River, with two of the four bridges crossing the river in Mozambique. A Swahili trade center before the Portuguese colonial era, Tete continues to dominate the west-central part of the country and region and is the largest city on the Zambezi. In the local language, Nyungwe, Tete (or Mitete) means “reed”.
The region was an important Swahili trade center before the Portuguese colonial era. The Portuguese established in 1531 two settlements far up the Zambezi – one of them, at Tete, some 420 kilometres (260 mi) from the sea. The Munhumutapa Kingdom and gold mines remained autonomous and mostly isolated from the Portuguese. Tete became a market centre for ivory and gold by the mid-17th century.
Climate. Hot semi-arid climate
Airports: Tete (TET)
A hotel very near the terminal had rooms – very nice but 2500/night ($40). A boda took me down the highway to the cheapest place in town. I paid 200 for the boda (way too much), but then got him to take me to a store to buy some milk, and possibly got my money’s worth. It was Sunday and most stores and all restaurants were closed.
ON Pensao Residential MMA, Tete. A very basic room with no wifi or AC and a shared bathroom for 700 MM (US$12). Only one sink in the entire complex but with no water. Thankfully it had a fan in the stifling room or mosquitos. Had a restaurant but it was closed on Sunday. Without any dinner, I laid down at 7 pm and slept soundly till 3 am.
Samora Machel Bridge. The one-kilometre-long was finished in 1973 by the Portuguese is a vital link on the major highway linking not just the northern and southern parts of the country, but Zimbabwe and Malawi as well. A second bridge south of the city was opened in late 2014 to allow traffic to Zambia or Malawi to bypass the provincial capital. Tete’s bridges, the rail Dona Ana Bridge, and the Armando Emilio Guebuza Bridge at Caia are the only bridges across the lower Zambezi.
Day 2 Mon May 22
I had two milk/coffee/sugar while I packed and sorted out all my money as I had four currencies, leaving my Zim bond on the table. I left at 4:45 walking to the Rodoviaria and finally a boda stopped and gave me a ride for 100 MM.
There were no buses and only minivans (agghh!) to drive the 130 km to Zoube, Mozambique on the border – 500 MM. I put my day pack on the front seat, my big pack in the back, had breakfast of cereal and more milk/coffee and waited till 07:30 for the van to fill and leave. The woman next to me luckily had a narrow ass, so it was a much better ride than the day before. The van had to be jump-started, not a good sign (I hope he never shuts off the engine).
The road was a potholed mess, the country rolling hills of grass and sparse trees, high mountains to the north and lower hills on all horizons. The posted speed limit was 100, but never remotely approached because of all the potholes – I doubt it was ever over 60.
Poverty looked extreme with tiny houses with thatch or metal galvanized roofs, many people walking on the road, few private vehicles, women gathering wood, sacks of charcoal (a major part of the economy, some cattle and some crops, and bananas. At every stop, people rush to the vehicle to sell pop and stuff. The most interesting was “mice on a stick” – whole smoked mice, twenty compressed between 4 wood skewers. Wow!
This trip was much more comfortable with more sitting room, fast stops to change passengers and quick police checks.
At least this country has bodas, the best and cheapest way to get around, maybe the only positive about this country.
Mozambique / Malawi border: Zoube, Mozambique / Mwanza, Malawi
Money exchange. At the border, a money changer offered for 1US$, first 1500 MK then 1600 MK then 1700 – he was so keen to make a deal, I decided to wait, guessing that the rate was better in Malawi, a black-market money country. These guys can never be trusted and seem to always lie.
At the border, Mozambiquians were offering 1600, then 1800 and then 2000, which I should have taken. In Malawi, the rate at the Standard Bank on the border was 1400 and one money changer would not go above 1500, which surprised me.
Mozambique immigration: Very fast, just a stamp.
It is about 8 km from Zoube to Malawi immigration. Many bodas were competing for business, in two different currencies, but there was no rush as I made them compete with each other. Eventually, I got 150 MM, but he thought that was just 500 m to a group of taxis (almost all taxis in Mwanza just shuttle around the border). He took me to the Malawi immigration for the same price.
We were stopped by the army. “Country?” “Where did you come from?” Where are you going?”, “What are you doing in Malawi?” All very pleasant and he welcomed me to Malawi.
Malawi immigration: I had to show my COVID vaccinations and e-visa paper copy. He asked several questions. Three stamps take up almost a full page. Male immigration offices almost always understand and stamp where requested, but the women are always difficult.
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Day 3 Thur May 25 After 4 days in Malawi – Return to Mozambique
I had a choice to make. Either take a minivan back to Tete and fly directly from there to Maputo tonight for CA$580 or fly from Blantyre via Johannesburg (15-hour layover) to Maputo in the morning for US$370. It wasn’t much of a decision as I didn’t want to endure another horrendous minivan drive.
I was up very early, exchanged $70 for 1400 MK/$ to pay for the mileage surcharge and went to the Blantyre airport to fly via Johannesburg to Maputo, Mozambique.
I checked in got boarding passes for both flights went through Malawi immigration, and went outside where I exchanged my excess MK at Forex outside the airport at the official rate – the reverse exchange makes money. I had lunch and 35 minutes before takeoff, I had a very irate airport staff demanding my immediate boarding. I went to the forex anyway. The plane took off almost 20 minutes before the listed time.
Flight BLZ – JNB @13:20 – 17:40 SA172. 15’10” layover. 26/05 JNB – MPM @ 08:50 – 10:00 SA7099 1’10”. US$371. Ticket #0839314443014.
Day 3 Fri May 26
I slept over in International Transfers for a good 8 hours. Up at 4 am, I went upstairs to the gates, had a coffee and worked on business.
We landed in Maputo at 10 am and I took a tuk-tuk to my hostel (300 MM).
MOZAMBIQUE – MAPUTO CITY & PROVINCE (Matola)
Borders: Mozambique (sea border/port), Mozambique-eSwatini, Mozambique-South Africa
MAPUTO (pop 1 088 449 – 2017; Metro 3 158 465) is the capital, largest city, and main financial, corporate and mercantile center in Mozambique. It is located on the west bank of Maputo Bay, in the extreme south of the country, close to the borders with South Africa and Eswatini.
Founded in the 16th century, it served as the main Portuguese warehouse in that part of the Indian Ocean, thanks to its privileged bay, becoming, in 1898, the capital of the colony; until March 13, 1976, the city was called “Lourenço Marques” in honour of the homonymous Portuguese explorer.
Has many shops/restaurants open on weekends. Outside the capital, most close at noon on Saturday, and open on Monday at 8 am. Business hours for shops are 0800 to noon and then 1400 to 1730 hours, Can buy beer anywhere and at any time. Follow the loud music blaring.
Airports: Maputo (MPM)
Starting relatively late in the day, I had a walkabout through the area north and east of the hostel with the longest walks.
Natural History Museum. A typical natural history museum with many stuffed mammals (somewhat tattered and worn), shells, plastic fish, insects, geology, birds, and an ethnographic section with musical instruments, furniture, weapons and jewelry. 100 MM
Museum Of Geology. A lot of rocks and some nice crystals but little that is amazing. 100 MM
Polana Serena Hotel. A 5-star hotel built in 1920. Lovely 4 stories. Highlights are the great view from the back veranda down to the pool, lawns and ocean, art, and old photos and maps. As is my custom, I used the toilet.
Church of San Antonio de la Polana. Don’t miss this architecturally stunning church with 16 triangular buttresses spiralling to a central point. Each side has a triangular coloured glass window and a strip of glass near the top. 6 traditional stained glass windows. A Roman Catholic church, it unusually has no Ways of the Cross. Enter through the buildings on the NE corner. Built in 1962, it seats 600.
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Rani Towers. Two towers, an 18 and 14-storey tower with serviced apartments in one and offices in the other. Both are set on a 4-storey retail and conference podium. The sinuous shapes of the plan and façade were inspired by the rolling hills and undulating coastline of Mozambique. Has a very popular restaurant.
Taqwa Mosque. A lovely cream-brick mosque with two minarets, a courtyard with 3 light domes, green marble in the portico, column bases, capitals and Mihrab and a central dome with nice windows.
ON Base Backpackers 873 MM. A nice hostel with a great back deck and views.
Day 4 Sat May 27
I had another of my typical walkabouts but started with a long tuk-tuk ride there and back to the zoo.
Zoological Garden. One of the worst zoos in the world with almost no animals – monkeys, baboons and some crocodiles. Certainly not worth the long drive out here and the admission. Most zoos are for kids. 100 MM
Tunduru Botanical Gardens. Many big trees but no flowers. Free
Montepio de Moçambique. A not very interesting building – a tattered 8-story with one side a painted geometric design.
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. An incredibly high clock tower, very large inside with wonderful bronze bas relief Ways of the Cross. Two very old oil paintings in the cross.
Samora Machel Statue. A bronze sculpture in a large roundabout, the Praça da Independência, Samora Machael. (1933 – 1986 ) was a Mozambican soldier, and revolutionary leader of socialist inspiration, who led the Mozambican War of Independence and was the first president after independence, from 1975 until he died in 1986. Affectionately known as “Father of the Nation”, he died when the plane on which he was returning to Maputo crashed in South Africa. In 1975-1976 he was awarded the Lenin Peace Prize
National Museum of Arts.Two floors of fairly small galleries, mostly modern art from the 60s to the 90s and many elaborate wood sculptures. 100 MM
Maputo-Katembe Bridge. A cable suspension bridge with towers on either side of the Maputo River. Long ramps on either side.
Camino de Ferro de Mocambique Station. A lovely 2-story colonial building dating from 1910. Iron girder construction along the tracks. Old photos and a list of the world’s most famous railway stations: Gare du Nord Paris, St Pancras London, Maputo, Sirkeic Istanbul, Southern Cross Melbourne, Knazawa Japan, Atocha Madrid, Union Station LA, Chhatrapati Shivy Mumbai, Sao Bento Porto, Union Station Washington DC, Antwerp Belgium, Kuala Lumpur, and Grand Central Station NY.
Monument to African and European soldiers in the Civil War. A large carved stone block monument in Workers Square across from the railway station. Commemorated the Great War. Bas reliefs on base and a woman on top with a snake and shield.
Maputo Central Market. In a colonial building dated 1901, it has a great facade and steel girder construction with a galvanized roof inside. Mostly produce spices and some fish, but also handicrafts, at least 40 attachment salons in the back.
Jumma Mosque. A lovely large mosque with a single minaret that is considerably close to the mihrab. Koranic script.
Museu da Moeda. In the oldest standing building in Maputo that dates to 1886. Various money is used throughout the various stages of Mozambique plus a brief survey of other money from around the world. 50 MM
Fisheries Museum. Fish and fishing techniques. Not very interesting. 50 MM
Maputo Fortress. A square with bastions in the back two corners. An array of canons, a large equestrian statue, anchors and maybe the highlight two bronze basreliefs and the carved coffin of Mariazimbe de Gaza.
I hung out at the hostel until 5, went to the Monte Carlo Restaurant just down the street for dinner and then walked to the Tropic Air to get the Intercape bus to Johannesburg, departing at 7 pm and arriving at 04:30 (420 Rand or about $26).
I decided to forget the rest of Mozambique due to difficult transportation, time and excessive cost. I didn’t see any of the following.
MOZAMBIQUE – NAMPULA (Nacala), ZAMBEZIA (Quelimane)
Borders: Malawi-Mozambique: Mozambique (sea border/port)
XL: Angoche Island and outlying islands
ISLAND OF MOZAMBIQUE WHS
The fortified city of Mozambique is located on this island, a former Portuguese trading post on the route to India. Its remarkable architectural unity is due to the consistent use, since the 16th century, of the same building techniques, building materials (stone or macuti) and decorative principles.
The Island of Mozambique is a calcareous coral reef situated 4 km from the mainland coast in the entrance to the Mossuril Bay of the Indian Ocean in Nampula Province. A bridge built in the 1960s joins the island to the mainland. The island forms an archipelago with two small uninhabited islands, the Islands of Goa and Sena to the east.
The island communities are intimately associated with the history of navigation in the Indian Ocean as the island played a unique role in intercontinental trading links from the 10th century. Its international historic importance relates to the development and establishment of Portuguese maritime routes between Western Europe and the Indian subcontinent.
The Island of Mozambique has two different types of dwellings and urban systems. The stone and lime town of Swahili, Arab and European influences in the north half, and the macuti town (city of roofed palm leaves) of traditional African architecture in the south. The stone and lime town, with its administrative and commercial properties, was the first seat of the Portuguese colonial government that lasted from 1507 to 1898. Thereafter the capital was transferred to Lourenço Marques now Maputo. The urban fabric and fortifications of Mozambique Island are exceptional examples of architecture and building techniques resulting from cultural diversity, and the interaction of people of Bantu, Swahili, Arab, Persian, Indian and European origin.
The incredible architectural unity of the island derives from the uninterrupted use of the same building techniques with the same materials and the same decorative principles. The island’s patrimony also includes its oldest extant fortress (St. Sebastian, 1558-1620), other defensive buildings and numerous religious buildings (including many from the 16th century).
Gonarezhou Transfrontier Park. You can see a variety of animal species and vegetation. Elephants, if you are lucky, lion, buffalo, zebra and buck. Near water sources, there are hippos and crocodiles. 400 species of birds. The infrastructure has been rehabilitated and repopulated in some endangered species. Chitengo Safari Camp has accommodation, swimming pools and a restaurant. Photographic safaris.
PEMBA. Is a popular holiday destination for Mozambicans, although its isolation has kept it off the tourist route for most Western visitors. Founded in 1904. The local market has handmade crafts, souvenirs, and colourful art. Water sports with diving on coral reefs.
THE QUIRMBAS ARCHIPELAGO Tentative WHS:(20/08/2008). Is a scenic and secluded holiday destination off the beaten track with lush African bush on the mainland and white sand beaches/crustal blue water in the Archipelago and on the coast. Accessible through Pemba. Is a beautiful island resort has the largest Sea Park in Africa with excellent scuba diving and snorkelling. Also well known for its deep-sea fishing and high-end tourism.
World of Nature
Niassa National Reserve. Area 42,000 square km. The vegetation consists of Miombo forest, savannah and wetlands. African wild dog is endangered. Elephant, sable antelope, buffalo, wildebeest and zebra. The vegetation consists of Miombo forest, savannah and wetlands. Variety of species of birds. Meculas Mountain is 1,441 meters.
Quirimbas NP
GENERAL
Geography. Mozambique stretches for 1,535 mi (2,470 km) along Africa’s southeast coast. It is nearly twice the size of California. Tanzania is to the north; Malawi, Zambia, and Zimbabwe to the west; and South Africa and Swaziland to the south. The country is generally a low-lying plateau broken up by 25 sizeable rivers that flow into the Indian Ocean. The largest is the Zambezi, which provides access to central Africa. In the interior, several chains of mountains form the backbone of the country.
HISTORY
Bantu migrations. Bantu-speaking peoples migrated to Mozambique as early as the 4th century BC. In the 1st and 5th centuries AD, waves of migration from the west and north went through the Zambezi River valley. They established agricultural communities based on herding cattle and had smelting and smithing iron.
Swahili Coast. From the late first millennium AD, vast Indian Ocean trade networks extended as far south into Mozambique. Islam was often adopted by urban elites, facilitating trade. Sofala, Angoche, and Mozambique Island were regional powers by the 15th century trading with the African interior and the broader Indian Ocean world in gold and ivory.
Portuguese Mozambique (1498–1975). The Island of Mozambique is a small coral island at the mouth of Mossuril Bay. Portuguese explorers reached Mozambique in 1498, and Portuguese trading posts and forts displaced the Arabic commercial and military. The Portuguese gained control of the Island of Mozambique and the port city of Sofala in the early 16th century. By the 1530s, when seeking gold, they set up garrisons and trading posts at Sena and Tete on the Zambezi.
In the central part, they created prazos or land grants that tied emigrants to their settlements.
Slavery in Mozambique pre-dated European contact. African rulers and chiefs supplied slaves by raiding enemy tribes and sold their captives to the prazeiros. Power was limited and exercised through individual settlers and officials who were granted extensive autonomy. The Portuguese were able to wrest much of the coastal trade from Arab Muslims between 1500 and 1700, but, with the Arab Muslim seizure of Portugal’s key foothold at Fort Jesus on Mombasa Island (now in Kenya) in 1698, the pendulum began to swing in the other direction. Investment lagged while Lisbon devoted itself to the more lucrative trade with India and the Far East and to the colonization of Brazil.
The Mazrui and Omani Arabs reclaimed much of the Indian Ocean trade, forcing the Portuguese to retreat south. By the early 20th century the Portuguese had shifted the administration of much of Mozambique to large private companies, like the Mozambique Company, the Zambezia Company and the Niassa Company, controlled and financed mostly by British financiers such as Solomon Joel, which established railroad lines to their neighbouring colonies (South Africa and Rhodesia). They supplied cheap—often forced—African labour to the mines and plantations of the nearby British colonies and South Africa. The Zambezia Company, the most profitable chartered company, took over several smaller prazeiro holdings and established military outposts to protect its property. The chartered companies built roads and ports to bring their goods to market including a railroad linking present-day Zimbabwe with the Mozambican port of Beira.
The companies’ concessions were not renewed when they ran out. This was what happened in 1942 with the Mozambique Company, which continued to operate in the agricultural and commercial sectors as a corporation,
The Mueda massacre of 16 June 1960, resulted in the death of Makonde protestors, which provoked the struggle of independence from Portuguese rule of Mozambique.
Mozambican War of Independence (1964–1975). Clandestine political movements supporting Mozambican independence claimed that policies were designed to benefit of Mozambique’s Portuguese population, but little attention was paid to Mozambique’s tribal integration and the development of its native communities. The Portuguese whites were indeed wealthier and more skilled than the black indigenous majority.
The Front for the Liberation of Mozambique (FRELIMO) initiated a guerrilla campaign against Portuguese rule in September 1964, and along with Angola and Portuguese Guinea—became part of the so-called Portuguese Colonial War (1961–1974). The Portuguese army maintained control of the population centres while the guerrilla forces were in rural and tribal areas in the north and west.
Independence (1975). FRELIMO took control of the territory after ten years of sporadic warfare. Within a year, most of the 250,000 Portuguese in Mozambique had left and Mozambique became independent from Portugal on 25 June 1975. Most left the country in 24 hours and most returned to Portugal penniless.
Mozambican Civil War (1977–1992). President Samora Machel established a one-party state based on Marxist principles. From 1977 to 1992, a long and violent civil war between the opposition forces of anti-communist Mozambican National Resistance (RENAMO) rebel militias and the FRELIMO regime occurred. Combined with sabotage from the neighbouring Rhodesia and South Africa, ineffective policies, failed central planning, and the resulting economic collapse resulted in the exodus of Portuguese nationals and Mozambicans of Portuguese heritage, a collapsed infrastructure, lack of investment in productive assets, and government nationalisation of privately owned industries, as well as widespread famine.
RENAMO-controlled areas included 50% of the rural areas. Health services cutbacks, mass human rights violations from both sides through the use of terror and indiscriminate targeting of civilians. The central government executed tens of thousands of people and sent many people to “re-education camps” where thousands died.
An estimated one million Mozambicans perished during the civil war, 1.7 million took refuge in neighbouring states, and several million more were internally displaced. 300,000 and 600,000 people died of famine during the war.
On 19 October 1986, Machel and 33 others died in a plane crash. Machel’s successor Joaquim Chissano implemented sweeping changes in the country, starting reforms such as changing from Marxism to capitalism and beginning peace talks with RENAMO. The new constitution enacted in 1990 provided for a multi-party political system, market-based economy, and free elections. The civil war ended in October 1992 and peace returned.
Democratic era (1993–present). Elections in 1994 were free and fair. By mid-1995, over 1.7 million refugees returned and an additional four million internally displaced persons had returned to their homes. Elections in 1999 and 2004 were again won by FRELIMO.
From 2013 to 2019, a low-intensity insurgency by RENAMO occurred, Government forces torched villages and carried out summary executions and sexual abuses. 2019, President Filipe Nyusi was re-elected after a landslide victory.
Since 2017, an ongoing insurgency by Islamist groups and in September 2020, ISIL insurgents captured and briefly occupied Vamizi Island in the Indian Ocean. In March 2021, dozens of civilians were killed and 35,000 others were displaced after Islamist rebels seized the city of Palma. In December 2021, nearly 4,000 Mozambicans fled their villages after an intensification of jihadist attacks in Niassa.
Smoking. Smoking in all public places was banned in Mozambique in 2007. However, many restaurants and bars have ignored this ban as it is almost entirely unenforced.
Cities.
Vilanculos Bazaruto Archipelago the largest sea park on the African coast
Cahora Bassa dam – Hydro-electric dam on the Zambezi river and the second largest man-made lake in Africa.
Ponta d’Ouro – a great dive spot, more easily accessible from South Africa than from Maputo.
Vamizi Island – a tropical island having beautiful private villas on it. Amazing place for world class fishing and deep sea diving.
Vilanculos – also known as Vilankulo is a popular holiday destination. The gateway to the
GET IN
As it is impossible to exchange Meticais outside of Mozambique it is advisable to change a small amount of currency if arriving at a land border in mid to late afternoon to cover taxis and meals for the first night, currency exchanges generally close at 6PM and due to sporadic ATM failures access to currency is by no means guaranteed out of hours. When accepted by merchants foreign currency has an extremely poor exchange rate.
By plane. Most international flights arrive from South Africa, although direct international routes also exist between Mozambique and Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Qatar, and Portugal.
There are several flights daily from Johannesburg to Maputo, operated by South African Airways (SAA) and the Mozambican flag carrier Linhas Aereas de Moçambique (LAM) Federal Air fly daily direct to Vilanculos International Airport. These and other airlines such as Kenya Airways, Swazi Express Airways, TAP Portugal, Qatar Airways also fly from Durban, Swaziland, Dar es Salaam, Harare, Nairobi and Lisbon and Doha. In addition, local carrier Air Corridor may start operating one or more international routes soon.
There are also regular flights to regional airports including Tete, Nampula, Pemba, Beira, Vilanculos and Inhambane from Johannesburg, Dar es Salaam and Nairobi, operated by South African Airlink (SAA), LAM and Kenya Airways. If you make a telephone booking with LAM and will not be paying for your flight until check-in you must reconfirm the flight 72 hours before departure or they are liable to cancel it.
By train.
From Malawi. There is only one train line in Mozambique, which connects Nampula with Cuamba (near the Malawi border). The train carries first, second and third-class passengers and is usually packed.
From Nampula, the train leaves around 5-6 AM, although you should arrive earlier to buy tickets from the booking office at the station. The area is packed with people travelling towards Malawi so expect queues. Once on board the journey is long and slow but fairly efficient and will get to Cuamba mid-afternoon. From here chapas will take you to the border (Entre Lagos) as only freight trains use this bit of the line. Be warned that even hardened African travellers will likely find this stretch of road very rough – expect it to take a fair amount of time.
Once at Entre Lagos, the border formalities are located within the station building (easy to find as the town is a typical small border town). The process can take some time as this is a little used crossing. From here it is about a 1km walk to the Malawi side of the border. BE WARNED – the Malawi border closes before the Mozambique one, although there is a guesthouse if you get trapped. The easiest way to get from here to Liwonde is by train – sweet-talk the guards and they may let you share their compartment.
By car. To enter Mozambique by car you will need the original registration documents and if it is not your vehicle a letter from the owner granting permission to take the vehicle into Mozambique. All foreign vehicles are required to have 3rd party insurance, which is available at many borders for R280, and also to pay road tax which is currently 26.50 Mts.
By bus
From Malawi. There are several border crossings to/from Malawi. By far the easiest and most frequently plied is at Zóbuè. The road is in good condition. Daily chapas run to/from Tete to the border, where you will have to walk about 300 m to get to Malawian transport. Daily buses from Chimoio and Beira also use this crossing.
There is another border crossing to the north, at Dedza, which may be more convenient for Lilongwe but the public transport on either side can be sporadic.
To leave/enter Malawi to the east, there are two crossings, Milange and Mandimba. Milange is in the south-east of Malawi, and to get there you need to catch one of the daily vehicles that run between Mocuba and Milange. At Milange there is a 2 km walk to the border, and then another 1km to where Malawian transport leaves.
Mandimba is further north, used mainly to get to Malawi from Lichinga. Several vehicles run daily between Lichinga and Mandimba, from where it is another 7km to the border. Hitching is relatively easy, or bicycle-taxis do the trip for about $1.
From South Africa. You can take the Intercape Mainliner, +27 861 287 287, from Johannesburg to Maputo. These buses run in both directions regularly, one in the morning, and another overnight, and are safe and affordable. Other carriers include Greyhound and Translux. If you intend on obtaining a visa at the border you should only purchase a ticket as far as the border, bus companies will not permit you to board with a ticket to Maputo if you do not own a visa. If you ask the bus conductor they will help you obtain a visa a the border and avoid the usually extremely long wait at the Mozambique side. Once through immigration either re-board the bus and pay the fare to Maputo on board, or pick up a minibus taxi to Maputo from the border.
Three times per week there are bus connections to and from Durban (via Big Bend, Swaziland). There is also a service from Nelspruit and Komatipoort to Maputo.
There are “taxis” to and from any destination in South Africa at affordable prices, now from 4 AM to 12 AM
By Boat.
Malawi. The MV Ilala operates across Lake Malawi from Monkey Bay, Chilumba, Nkhata Bay to Likoma Island. From Likoma Island it is a 3km boat ride to the Mozambique border at Cobue.
It is possible to travel across Lake Malawi, though international travellers must legally enter through a border post and have the appropriate documentation (visas, etc. depending on nationality). Once on the Mozambique side, local transport would need to be arranged.
Taking the Ilala ferry is certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Sleeping on the upper deck of this Second World War ferry and watching the sunrise over far-rolling hills along the Mozambican and Malawian coasts is breathtaking. You can enter the ferry from any of the harbours where the ferry arrives.
GET AROUND
Road. The EN1 runs the length of the country generally staying close to the coast from Maputo up. Roads throughout the country are generally in poor condition, especially when compared to South Africa, although the stretch of the EN1 between Maputo and Inchope is in decent condition except the 120 km directly north of Vilankulo, which is still in decrepit condition and poses a serious challenge to any driver in a low clearance vehicle. The EN6 between the Machipanda border crossing with Zimbabwe and Inchope is in good condition, but deteriorates considerably between Inchope and Beira, becoming almost impassable at points. Note also that north of Vilankulo service stations are scarce – motorists may go 150 km between service stations so fill up at every opportunity.
Chapas and Buses. Buses and chapas leave early in Mozambique – 4 AM is not unusual, particularly as you go further north. Chapas take the form of both mini & midi buses but often pick-up trucks and cargo trucks will offer a ride for the same fare as a chapa. Government and privately owned buses ply the same routes as Chapas but typically stop a great deal more often so are inadvisable for anything other than short journeys.
The chapas themselves, particularly on shorter routes, are generally in shockingly poor condition. Expect seats, doors and interiors to fall apart. Having said that since 2007/2008 the Mozambican government has been regulating prices on key routes which means chapa travel in Mozambique is extremely good value. In larger cities this translates to signs with destinations and prices in chapa stations (EG – Junta in Maputo), these prices will not come down no matter how hard you negotiate but many an enterprising chapa conductor/navigator/bouncer will try to extort you if you are silly enough to ask what a price is. If in doubt ask at your hotel, a local or as a last resort simply hand them a large note; often they will assume you know the correct fare and give you the correct change.
Since about the beginning of 2011, there have been registered chapas and unregistered chapas. While both are unsafe and are in many accidents each year, always take the government chapas. These can be recognized by being the large buses. These buses are newer and thus slightly safer. They cost slightly more (at the time this was written they were 10 mets a journey, and unregistered were 5). Unregistered chapas though are extremely dangerous and overcrowded and should never be used if you can help it.
Taxis. Once only found in Maputo taxis can now be found in many cities throughout the country. They never have meters so you must negotiate regarding cost before your journey. Taxis are often in as perilous condition as chapas (from balding tires to someone sitting in the passenger seat holding a plastic gas can with the car’s fuel line going into it) and breakdowns should be considered likely. Never pay for your journey until you reach your destination. If you are female, never take a taxi alone, especially not one found on the side of the road. If you must, ask around for the number of a trusted taxi driver who will come pick you up and can usually be there in under half an hour depending on how far away they are. Always add ten minutes or more to how long they say they will take to collect you though.
In Maputo, there is a flat rate of 200Mts for any journey in the city center. Longer journeys (EG to Junta) cost 400Mts and up. In the early morning, they will often attempt to gouge you, doubling the price to 400Mts, as there are often very few taxis about at this time.
Air. Domestic flights are the fastest and most sane way to get around the country if you can afford it. Linhas Aereas de Moçambique flies between the major cities.
LAM operates a small and diverse fleet, some of which are brand new, others much less so (the Embraer 120s flying to Inhambane are 25 years old).
LAM operates an old-style booking system where you can reserve a flight over the telephone and then pay for it on check-in. If you use this facility, ensure that you confirm your flight 72 hours before departure or your reservation will likely be canceled.
Whilst all LAM offices in towns and airports can book and receive payment for flights throughout the country, the best fares are only bookable online. The LAM website is in Portuguese and English and can be navigated easily.
The domestic terminal in Maputo is clean, efficient and modern, and is connected to the international terminal. Wi-Fi is available.
Rail. There are three train lines: one in the far north, traveling from Nampula to Cuamba (near the Malawi border); another running from Maputo to Chicualacuala at the border with Zimbabwe; and the last one connecting Maputo with Pretoria. This makes Maputo an important stop in the Tanzania-South Africa train connection. See Get in above for more details.
Mine clearance from the old coastal railway running the length of the country has been finished in many areas, but with the costs involved and the level of corruption in the country, it will be decades before any rail service with reasonable coverage arrives.
EAT
As a country, the Portuguese occupation has had a profound impact on local foods that has produced some of the most unique and interesting cuisines within Southern Africa. Towards the coast a great deal of seafood is used within even the most basic of dishes, however, on land, the maize-based porridges common throughout Africa becomes staple but with some Portuguese flair.
Piri-Piri, also known as the African bird’s eye chilli an extremely strong chilli is a common sauce from throughout the country.
Pãozinho , also known as Portuguese rolls or Prego (beef) no pão and bifana (pork). A floury and often semi-sweet bread roll, typically served with meat in the center.
Matapa, a seafood (clam, crab or prawn) stew made with Casave leaves and generally served over rice. This is one of the Mozambique staples.
Camarão National, are Mozambican prawns marinaded in a Piri-Piri, garlic, onion, lemon and vinegar.
Crayfish and other seafood. These are caught off the beach throughout the country and will generally be prepared with a piri-piri marinade, served with rice and matapa.
Kakana This is a bitter-tasting local vegetable.
All tap water in Mozambique should be assumed to be unsafe to drink, even if it is not harmful it usually has some sediment that your stomach will not be used to. Most western-oriented lodgings either provide a fresh water source or sell bottled water.Beer[edit]
SLEEP
Hotels. Hotels in Mozambique are generally ungraded and, particularly in the less travelled parts of the country, have not been updated since independence. In some cases, you can pay up to $50USD a night for a hotel room that should be in the $5 – $10 range based on facilities. On the other end of the scale, Mozambique hosts some of the most incredible, and expensive, hotels and resorts in the world.
Backpacker Lodges. Maputo, Tofo Beach, Vilanculos and Pemba have several backpacker lodges each and are geared up for the budget traveller. Elsewhere transient labor guesthouses or cheap hotels.
STAY SAFE. Risks are much the same as many other countries in Africa (and significantly less than some, including parts of South Africa). Nevertheless, muggings, robberies, rape and murder do occur, so the normal precautions should be taken. Women absolutely should never walk alone on beaches, in recent years, attacks on women have grown in tourist areas. In particular, it’s worth checking with local hostels and other travellers as to where dangerous areas are.
But in general, the Mozambican people are extremely warm and friendly and you will encounter far less hassle than in almost all of the countries surrounding it.
Violence between FRELIMO and RENAMO has erupted recently, with many South African tourists having been attacked. The violence is only evident north of Vilanculos. If you stay south of this, you should be clear of any violence. Consult your local Ministry of Foreign Affairs for further information and to ensure that travel to Mozambique is still safe. It is advised that your report your presence to your country’s embassy in Maputo or consulate in another major city upon your arrival in Mozambique.
Police. The police in Mozambique should be looked at with a wary eye, and placing trust in them should only be done as a very last resort.
Insisting on being taken to a police station is unlikely to improve your situation, except Maputo. The police have been known to rob tourists blind and throw them in a cell. Instead, mention contacting your embassy or the anti-corruption hotline to verify a fine, and always ask for a receipt.
If you have cause to go to a police station (e.g., filing a police report for insurance purposes after a theft) do not take any valuables or excessive currency with you, and try to always go with someone else.
Speed limits. In Mozambique the speed limit in town is 60km/h (unless contrary road signs) and 100km/h or 120km/h elsewhere. There are numerous mobile speed traps on the EN1, often in areas where you don’t imagine the speed limit has dropped. Be very alert to speed limits on this highway as the police are very effective in stopping motorists who do not reduce speed quickly enough, or who started accelerating too early coming out of a small town before the increased speed limit. It is a challenge to drive from Maputo to Vilanculos without getting stopped at least once, even if you try your best to obey the speed limits.
Bribery. When dealing with the Mozambican police never suggest a bribe; simply listen to whatever lecture they care to give, and ask “What can we do about this?”. Often they will simply let you go. If they do ask for a bribe, the amount is entirely negotiable and can range from a bottle of cola (for carrying no identification) up to several hundred USD (for minor drug infractions).
Identification. By law, you must carry a form of identification with you at all times and present it to the police on request. As a result, you should carry a notarized copy of your passport photo page, visa and entry stamp with you at all times. Ask your hotel where to locate a notary or contact your local embassy as soon as you enter the country. In Maputo, there is one on Av. Lenine, close to Mimmo’s, and another on Av. Armando Tivane (one block west of Av. Nyerere) between Av. Mao Tse-Tung and Av. 24 de Julho. They are not particularly easy to find; ask around.
If you are asked for identification by the police and you do not have a notarized copy, under no circumstances give them your passport. If you do, then it will likely cost you a great deal of money to get it back. Often simply talking to them a while will get them to go away.
Land mines. While most of the country has been cleared there is still an ongoing risk in rural areas away from the EN1 in Sofala, Tete, Manica, Gaza, Inhambane and Maputo provinces. It should be noted that only 2 or 3 incidents a year occur with landmines and they are all well outside the tourist trail.
Prostitution. Prostitution is legal throughout the country, however, because of the high rate of HIV/AIDS, it should be in the best interest to avoid it, as it is not regulated well. If you choose to indulge in it, it’s best to avoid prostitutes who are below the legal age of consent, as they cannot consent and are commonly sold for sex against their will. Indulging in this is highly illegal with penalties of long jail sentences. Prostitution among children is a major problem in Mozambique.
STAY HEALTHY
Malarial prophylaxis is essential in all parts of Mozambique. Clinics in every town offer a test for approximately 50Mts.
Mind what you eat.
Do not have unprotected sex. HIV incidence is 12%.
Do not drink tap water or use any ice. South of the Zambezi River that divides the country, Mozambique is much more developed, especially around Maputo, Inhambane and the industrial city of Beira. Here, it is safe to drink the tap water. Water is marketed as “mineral water” and sold at an inflated price as a semi-luxury item (sometimes for as much as 50 or 60 Meticais in backpackers’ lodges and restaurants). The infrastructure in the north of the country is much less developed and, as such, caution must be exercised, especially in rural areas and the area near Palma and bordering Tanzania. The tap water is usually safe to drink in the main cities such as Nampula and Pemba, and on Mozambique Island.
Private clinics. There are a few private health clinics in Maputo that will also arrange repatriation in emergencies. Clinica da Sommerschield (tel: 21 493924) Clinica Suedoise (tel: 21 492922).
