Thailand Feb 23-
I continued on my plan to see as many Nomad Mania sites in SE Asia before going to my first new country of Bangladesh.
Day 1 Thur Feb 23
Share van to Hai Yai Thailand @ 5am. They picked me up at my hostel at 5 but I slept in. I rapidly stuffed all my things and made it down to the car, a very nice Toyota SUV. I was able to pack all my stuff as I was in the far back seat.
10 minutes before the border (3 hours to here), we stopped to get an immigration card (5R), I exchanged my Ringat and got a Thai SIM (unlimited data, 1 week, 20 R). Immigration was fast on both sides and the officers put stamps where I asked them to.
Thailand – South Extreme (Narathiwat, Songkhla, Satun, Pattani, Yala)
HAT YAI (pop 157,000, metro 400,000) is a city in southern Thailand near the Malaysian border. It is 946 km south of Bangkok. Hat Yai is the largest city of Songkhla province and is part of the Greater Hat Yai-Songkhla Metropolitan Area (a conurbation with a population of about 800,000), forming the largest metropolitan area in the south, and the third largest metropolitan area of the country. Songkhla is the capital and the centre of administration and culture while Hat Yai is the business centre of the province.
Hat Yai Cable Car
Wat Hat Yai Nai
Mini van Hatyai to Phuket 450 B. It was a long 8-hour drive to Phuket in a mini-van arriving just before dark. The bus let us off at Bus Terminal 1 close to my hostel.
ON Dorm Hostel. One of the few hostels in Phuket City (most are on the west coast near the beaches). It is a lovely new well-designed hostel with cube beds, good AC at night and breakfast of more than toast. $12
Thailand – Phuket
Day 2 Fri Feb 24
PHUKET (City) World Cities and Popular Towns
I tried to book a bus to Bangkok online and couldn’t. I also could not contact any scooter rental so took a Bolt to Bus Terminal 2 (200 B) and got the last seat in a VIP bus 13 hours to Bangkok. There were also
Phuket Bird Park. The usual tropical birds with the hornbills being the loveliest. There is a bird show with trained parrots. 500 B
Phuket Botanic Gardens. An average botanical garden well outside of Phuket City. At 500B, one of the most expensive BG in the world to visit and not really worth the price. Opens at 1 pm.
The Big Buddha (Phra Puttamingmongkol Akenakkiri Buddha) is a seated Maravija Buddha statue sitting atop Nakkerd Hill near Chalong, construction occurred between 2015-18. It is the third-tallest statue in Thailand behind only the Great Buddha of Thailand and Luangpho Yai.
The Buddha statue depicts Gautama in a sitting position and is 45 metres (148 feet) tall and 25.45 metres (83.5 feet) wide. It is made of concrete and covered with Burmese white marble. Facing Ao Chalong Bay the statue is the main Buddha of the Wat Kitthi Sankaram temple (Wat Kata).
The statue cost 30 million Baht (approx. $950,000 US in February 2019), sourced primarily from donations. It was built legally in a national conserved forest with the approval of the Thai Royal Forest Department.
Sitting on top of a mountain, it is a 9km drive up and back. It can be seen from most of the south of the island.
Wat Chalong. A collection of several Buddhist temples, the most spectacular is 3-stories with a high temple and spire on top, incredible window decoration, and many frescoes inside. Floor 1 has many seated Buddhas, floor 2 is a seated marble Buddha and floor 3 crystal Buddhas in a glass case. The grounds are quite lovely.
Phuket Seashell Museum. Permanently closed.
Promthep Cape Lighthouse. This is possibly the prettiest lighthouse in the world. Sitting high up and slightly inland on a small peninsula, there is a large rectangular stone plinth, a conical 4-sided middle and a gold (brass) light with two elephants and some “flowers”. In the large park is a shrine to Brahma with a small statue surrounded by a hundred or so elephants of every size, shape and colour.
Park at the bottom and walk up the road or stairs. This has the best views of anywhere on the island and is a favourite sunset spot. There is a small nautical museum and observation deck for the best views. Cape Panwa, Chalong Bay with its islands, Phi Phi Islands 48kms away, Koh Racha Yai and Noi are visible on a clear day. nearby are small Yanui Beach, Windmill Viewpoint and Nai Harn Beach.
Karon Viewpoint, A NM Urban Legends, doesn’t have much of a view because of all the trees except to the north. Right on the highway. Pose with a magnificent sea eagle.
Karon Beach. One of the more popular beaches is a huge crescent of light sand with lots of umbrellas. The neighbourhood is very busy with bars, restaurants, stores and resorts.
Freedom Beach. Drive down a rough gravel road for 1.5km and park at the first bunch of scooters to take the rough, steep trail down to the beach and avoid the 100 B entrance fee. This is a fairly small crescent of a beach and not nearly as busy as the other huge beaches on the west side of the island. Even though I didn’t bring my bathing suit, I went in for a swim in my underwear. The water is warm and gets deep relatively fast.
Return up the concrete steps, then a more gradual rough trail to the road and return to your vehicle (much easier than the rough trail I took down.
Patong Beach. Another enormously long crescent of sand, it is covered in umbrellas for most of its length. The neighbourhood is one of the busiest on the west side of the island with many restaurants, bars and shopping.
Tsunami Memorial Park. In the NM Dark Side series, this monument seems isolated in a small park behind a canal and Kamala beach. On 26 December 2004, Thailand lived one of the darkest episodes in its history, a tsunami of an incredible magnitude struck the south coast of the country. Khao Lak was the most affected city. The wave penetrated 1 km inland and took a police patrol boat 2 km inland where it is now exposed.
The monument is spectacular – several oval constructions of copper pipe.
Keemala.In the Nomad Mania Well-being series, this Eco-experience posh resort is 2 km from the highway at the base of the hill in the jungle. Beneath the rainforest canopy, connected by jungle pathways, the unique hillside villas are inspired by nature. Experience Keemala’s harmonious blend of luxury and tranquility. Clay pool cottages, tent pool villas, tree pool houses, bird’s nest pool villas.
I could only drive down to the road outside but security prevented me from seeing any of the resort.
Green Elephant Sanctuary Park. Feed and bathe rescued elephants in their natural environment where they roam freely. A half-day tour is almost 3000 B ($100). I didn’t go in but looked at things from the outside.
Wat Phra Thong. A Buddhist temple complex with two temples, only one of which is open. Unusually, 8 smaller Buddhas are being slowly covered with gold leaf.
Sirinat NP. Just south of the airport on the west side of the island,
Phuket Airport (HKT). In the far north of the island. I did not use the airport but stopped by and had a look-in.
Soi Dog Foundation. A rescue centre for dogs north of the airport and at the very north tip of the island. Closes at 11:30 and I missed seeing it.
Phuket Northeast Loop, A NM Scenic Road, this is hard to understand. It is completely flat and never leaves an urban area. All the forest (except the mountains to the west) is secondary forest or converted to farms.
Thalang National Museum, In a grand 2-story stone building, it is 15+km north of Phuket City. There are four different themes: 1: Phuket Island and Early inhabitant of the Andaman, 2: The Battle at Thalang, This honours Thao Thep Krasattri and Thao Si Sunthon, two sisters who played big roles during the Battle of Thalang and helped save Phuket from invaders. 3: The Chinese and Development of Phuket, and 4: Phuket People. 200 B.
On my way to my hostel, I stopped at Bus Terminal 2 and my scooter rental to extend my rental to 2:30 pm for 200 B just before my bus left for Bangkok saving two taxi fares of 200 B each.
I drove a long way to eat at a Burger King.
ON The Dorm Hostel
Day 3 Sat Feb 25. I had a walkabout to see the sites close to the hostel in Phuket City.
Philatelic Museum. A postal / postage stamp museum with many stamps of the king and queen, scenes of Thailand, old postal boxes and an original office where postage was dealt with. Free
Peranakan Museum (Baba Museum). Gives the story of Phuket in four eras along with the history and culture of the island – inlaid furniture, Chinese jewelry, plastic food and the Buddhist theory of the 10 levels of hell. It was interesting to see how Covid affected tourism – 14.5 million visits in 2019 and 1.14 million in 2021. Free
Nagara Museum. In the original Chartered Bank building, climb the watchtower to read all about the tin industry and the role of the Chinese. Free
Thavorn Museum. In the Thavorn Hotel, this is a private collection. The hotel is gorgeous with a wood coffered ceiling and walls. Furniture, photographs, many small safes. The museum is closed but I could all the bottom floor (the lobby of the hotel) through the windows. 50 B
Jui Tui Shrine. A large Chinese shrine complex with many icons, most small, gilt and red lanterns. Free
Chinpracha House Museum. Shows a good example of Sino-Portuguese architecture. Explore the first floor (living room, bedroom with its king-sized bed, outdoor kitchen) with the owner, a fifth-generation Chinese man (the family with his mother and wife live on the second floor). Much mother of pearl inlaid Chinese furniture, vases, knick-knacks, photos, jewelry, Spanish tile floor, porcelain, and a lovely carp pool in the centre that is open to the sky. He described how the Chinese and Malay dress have been combined. They made thier money in the tin industry and since the war have branched out into coconut farms, rubber and since 1990, the tourism industry. 150 B
Thai Hua Museum. This is a hotel – if you stay here, you get to see a typical Thai guesthouse (I think). Enter only the lobby. I never really understood what it was all about. Free
I contacted the scooter rental about bringing it back at 14:30 to avoid two taxi fares to the bus depot and back (200 B). I returned the scooter intact for once with no accidents. Passport returned.
Bus Phuket to Bangkok. 15:40-04:30 +1 in a deluxe bus with only VIP seats, one row along each side 1115 B ($33.50). The seats were odd, half reclining was the most upright and reclined only about 75%.
I had a back seat next to the toilet which had a foul smell so moved to a very front seat – that unfortunately didn’t have full leg room. I was able to get only 4 or 5 hours of sleep. Passing through Thai immigration was painless. I arrived at the Bangkok South Bus Terminal at 04:30, read till 6 and walked 2.8 km to a train station, the metro and my hostel in Bangkok. It didn’t open till 9 so had a great mocha frappe around the corner.
ON Bangpho Story. An incredibly well-designed new hostel, it was 5 km to anywhere I wanted to see but had a metro just outside the door of the hostel. 350 B/night.
Day 4 Sun Feb 25. I had my usual walkabout day seeing the NM sites in Bangkok. There are relatively big distances between all these and seeing Bangkok involves a lot of walking.
Siriraj Medical Museum. In a medical centre, the museum is in 7 buildings. I saw mainly the first one with exhibits of congenital abnormalities, tsunami trauma, heart defects, trauma and a lot of pathology. 200 B
National Museum of Royal Barges. Going here involves walking through an interesting neighbourhood of tiny lanes and canals. The museum has at least 6 large barges up to 60 m long with up to 100 rowers. All the prows had fantastic animal heads and the boats had a lot of gilt and cut glass. 200 B
National Museum. In at least 10 halls, there is a wide range of archaeology, Buddhist art, a temple, and much more. Very well done. 200 B
National Gallery. Mostly modern art, there was not a lot I liked. 100 B
Phra Sumen Fort. Taking the title of the most beautiful fort, this octagonal fort has a 3-story tower on a central platform surrounded by a wall. The many small cross-like arrow holes on a pure white background added to the appearance. It cannot be visited.
Bank of Thailand Museum. See older paper printing presses, coin presses and a lot of money, both banknotes and metal – some of the most fascinating coins in the world. Free
Bang Khun Phrom Palace is a former royal residence that served as the residence of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu until his forced exile following the Siamese revolution of 1932.
The palace is located on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River, on Samsen Road, Phra Nakhon District. It consists of two main buildings, the road-facing Tamnak Yai (main residence) and the river-facing Tamnak Somdet (residence of Queen Sukhumala Marasri, who was a mother of the Prince). The main residence, designed by Mario Tamagno in the neo-Baroque/Rococo style, was built in 1901–1902, while the Queen’s residence was built around 1913 in the German Art Nouveau style.
Following the revolution, the palace served as the site of several government offices until it became the headquarters of the Bank of Thailand in 1945. It now serves as a museum and housed the Bank of Thailand Museum until 2017, when its main exhibition was moved to the Bank of Thailand Learning Center housed in the opposite former banknote printing press building.
It cannot be visited.
Thewawet Palace. In the same compound as the Bang Khun Phrom Palace, it is the former residence of Prince Devawongse Varopakarn. It was a museum of the Bank of Thailand but now cannot be visited.
Dusit Palace. This sits behind the Royal Plaza, or formally Dusit Palace Plaza or Equestrian Statue Plaza is an important public square in the palace and government quarter of Bangkok.
It is located in front of Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall in Dusit Palace, where King Chulalongkorn (Rama V; r. 1868–1910) once lived, and was later used as the first parliament building. At the center of the plaza is the Equestrian statue of King Chulalongkorn, the “Great beloved king”. The square is rectangular shaped, about 500 metres long and 150 metres wide.
On the northern corner of the square is Amphorn Sathan Residential Hall, the primary residence of current King Vajiralongkorn, on its southwestern edge is Paruskavan Palace which hosts the headquarters of the National Intelligence Agency and Metropolitan Police Bureau. To its south is the headquarters of the Royal Thai Army’s 1st Army region. Dusit Zoo is also located near the plaza. It is often used for rallies, parades and ceremonies.
Wat Benchamabophit (Marble Temple). Another over-the-top Buddhist temple but this one is all grey marble with ornate gilt/cut glass window and door frames.
Anti Corruption Museum. Closed permanently.
Dusit Zoo. Closed probably permanently
Queen Sirikit Gallery. Four floors exhibiting the work of Thawan Duchanee (1939-2014). There was a lot of fashion, somewhat abstract animals and many water buffalo skulls with black horns. I didn’t particularly like his work. 50 B
Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall. Situated in an ornate Thai building, this is an interactive self-learning centre with state-of-the-art multimedia technologies giving information on the history, arts and culture of the Rattanakosin era (since 1782). It is in 7 exhibition rooms each representing a part of the grandeur of Rattanakosin, the capital of Thailand.
King Prajadhipok Museum. The building displays the photographs, documents, and royal records of His Majesty King Prajadhipok and Her Majesty Queen Rambai Barni.
In a lovely 3-story green mansion this is about King Prajadhipok (1893-1941), also Rama VII, who was the seventh monarch of Siam of the Chakri dynasty. His reign was a turbulent time for Siam due to political and social changes during the Revolution of 1932. He is to date the only Siamese monarch of the Chakri Dynasty to abdicate. Unlikely to succeed to the throne, Prince Prajadhipok chose to pursue a military career.
Prajadhipok lived a generally quiet life with his wife at their residence, Sukhothai Palace, next to the Chao Phraya River. The couple had no children. Prajadhipok soon found himself rising rapidly in succession to the throne, as his brothers all died within a relatively short period. In 1925, King Vajiravudh himself died at the age of 44. Prajadhipok became absolute monarch at only thirty-two crowned King of Siam on 25 February 1926.
He had inherited serious political and economic problems from his predecessor. The budget was heavily in deficit, and the royal financial accounts were in serious disorder.
He made several attempts to organize a parliament but all failed. In 1932, a small group of soldiers and civil servants began secretly plotting to overthrow the absolute monarchy and conducted an almost bloodless “revolution”. The People’s Party demanded Prajadhipok become a constitutional monarch and grant the Thai people a constitution. In the event of a negative response, they reserved the right to declare Siam a republic. The king immediately accepted the People’s Party’s request and the first “permanent” constitution of Siam was promulgated on 10 December. Free
Wat Saket (Golden Mount Temple). Built on a steep mountain (all brickworks, shrines and water features) there is a large concrete base with the temple on top.
The temple dates back to the Ayutthaya era and was completed early in the reign of King Rama V (1853–1910). A relic of the Buddha was brought from Sri Lanka by Prince Pritsadang and placed in the chedi. The surrounding concrete walls were added in the 1940s to stop the hill from eroding. The modern Wat Saket was built in the early 20th century using Carrara marble.
In the early Rattanakosin period (between the reigns of Rama I and Rama V), the Siamese had a tradition of not cremating the dead within the city walls, because it was believed to be an evil portent. Wat Saket was outside the city walls, so it was often used as a place to cremate dead bodies, which were carried through the Pratu Phi or ‘ghost gate’.
In 1820, cholera spread from Penang to Bangkok, leading to more than 30,000 deaths in the capital. Wat Saket became the main receiving ground of many dead bodies that were moved in every day. Due to the large number of deaths, the temple was unable to cremate every dead body; some of the bodies were therefore left in the open area of the monastery, and vultures began coming to devour them. The temple became the main food court for vultures, and there were outbreaks of cholera every dry season until the early reign of King Rama V. The severest outbreak was in 1840 during the reign of King Rama III when one in ten people in Siam and the surrounding areas were killed by the disease. The last spreading of the disease took place in 1881 when many hundreds died each day.
It is a long walk up all the steps to the top. 100 B
ON Bangpho Journey.
Day 5 Mon Feb 27. I took the metro to Sukhumvit station for another big walkabout day. There were large distances between many places and I took the metro several times.
Kamthieng House Museum is a traditional Thai Lanna House, now an ethnographic museum. The museum exhibits the Lanna way of life. The space under the house displays tools used to make a living, agricultural tools, pedestal rice offerings, sacrificial offerings for ancestors, wood carvings, fabric talismans, ancient gold jewelry, kitchenware etc.
It was closed but I pushed on a small gate, it opened and I went into the house which was empty but with drums, a loom and tools under. Cost?
Terminal 21 is an 8-level shopping mall with the usual stores. I bought a t-shirt at H&M here to use as pyjamas ($6).
Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant. This is a normal coffee shop and a small side street that has one table with a few hundred coloured condoms under one round glass table top.
Central World. Another large shopping mall, the ninth largest shopping complex in the world. The complex, which includes the Centara Grand Hotel and a 63-floor office tower, Baiyoke Tower II is an 88-story, 309 m (1,014 ft) skyscraper hotel, the fourth tallest building in the city. It contains the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, the tallest hotel in Southeast Asia. There is a public observatory on the 77th floor, a bar called “Roof Top Bar & Music Lounge” on the 83rd floor, a 360-degree revolving roof deck on the 84th floor and a hotel with 673 guest rooms.
MahaNakhon is a mixed-use skyscraper in the Silom/Sathon central business district that opened in 2016. It features the unconventional appearance of a glass curtain-walled square tower with a cuboid-surfaced spiral cut into the side of the building. At 314.2 metres (1,031 ft) with 77 floors, it was recognized as the tallest building in Thailand in 2016. (passed by Magnolias Waterfront Residences at ICONSIAM in 2018 with a height of 317 metres). Featuring hotel, retail and residences, 200 units of The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Bangkok inside the building are priced between around $US1,100,000 to $US17,000,000, making it one of the most expensive condominiums in Bangkok.
M.R. Kukrit’s House is a heritage museum that consists of five teak houses. The reception hall was used for public purposes (receptions and banquets) and for religious ceremonies. The homes contain artifacts, such as a Chinese altar given by Deng Xiaoping as a gift and old Buddhist scriptures. As a traditional Thai home, the garden plays a key role in the design as two low walls on either side of the garden connect the main hall in front to the houses in the rear of the property.
In the dining area, two vases are displayed, gifts to Kukrit from Mao Zedong of China. Many tributes are displaying the late prime minister’s affection for dogs, including paintings. Left of the reception room are the living, reading and music rooms; on the right, a room which is used as a shrine for Buddhist prayer.
The House served as the fifth Pit Stop in The Amazing Race 19.
Taksin Bridge is the sixth bridge built across the Chao Phraya River to link Sathon and Krung Thon Buri Roads and built in 1982. Before the construction of the bridge, the Chao Phraya River was crowded with huge ocean-going steamers, cargo ships, and passenger ships passing upriver to the port in the north of Bangkok. After the completion of the bridge, the port was moved to the south at Bangkok Port.
The bridge was designed with a large gap between opposing traffic directions to accommodate a cancelled mass transit system. The disused foundations were eventually adapted for the BTS Skytrain,[1] with train services across the bridge beginning in 1999.
Assumption Cathedral is the principal Roman Catholic church of Thailand, The cathedral hosted both of the Papal visits to Thailand; Pope John Paul II in 1984[1] and Pope Francis in 2019. Completed in 1821. Around 1909, the church underwent significant reconstruction and was rebuilt in the romanesque style with a red brick exterior and two tall square bell towers. Inside is a high ceiling adorned with many ornate decorations.
In 1942, the Allied bombing caused serious damage to the church. Three schools are situated in the compound of the cathedral: The Assumption College, the Assumption Convent School and the Assumption Suksa School.
Unfortunately (and unusually for a Catholic church, this was closed.
Bangkok Folk Museum (Bangkokian Museum), is set in a building dating back to the World War II period, the museum offers an insight into the lifestyles of well-off Bangkokians during World War II and its aftermath (1937–1957). The museum consists of two main two-storey buildings and a garden. In an upstairs room of the first, are the family quarters. Here are displays of many of the possessions of original family members. The second building in the Bangkok Folk Museum was once intended to be the home and clinic of Dr. Francis Christian, the stepfather of the owner. Christian died before he could move in. On display are his cigar collection, and various stoves dating back to the early-20th century. One display has an old Bangkokian kitchen from the war period. Another room displays sanitation and toilet facilities during the war and has two toilets standing next to each other.
Conjoined with the Folk museum is the BMA local museum of Bang Rak District. It houses records of the history of the district, and an insight into the origins of the early roads and canals. It focuses on the canals and the windmills that once characterized the area.
Taksin Bridge
I took a tuk-tuk for the 3.8 km to the bridge to access the other side of the river to see the monument but left about a third of the way to take the nearby metro. It was very slow due to all the traffic.
Taksin Monument. King Taksin the Great (1734-1782) was the only king of the Thonburi Kingdom. He had been an aristocrat in the Ayutthaya Kingdom and then was a major leader during the liberation of Siam from Burmese occupation after the Second Fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, and the subsequent unification of Siam after it fell under various warlords. He established the city of Thonburi as the new capital, as the city of Ayutthaya had been almost completely destroyed by the invaders. His reign was characterized by numerous wars; he fought to repel new Burmese invasions and to subjugate the northern Thai kingdom of Lanna, the Laotian principalities, and a threatening Cambodia.
Although warfare occupied most of Taksin’s reign, he paid a great deal of attention to politics, administration, economy, and the welfare of the country. He promoted trade and fostered relations with foreign countries. He had roads built and canals dug, and attempted to revive literature, and various branches of the arts such as drama, painting, architecture and handicrafts.
He was taken in a coup d’état and executed and succeeded by his long-time friend Maha Ksatriyaseuk, who then assumed the throne, founding the Rattanakosin Kingdom and the Chakri dynasty, which has since ruled Thailand.
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Flower Market. Lotsa flowers, virtually all yellow marigolds, and two types of white flowers often rearranged into ornaments. It is hard to believe that all these perishable flowers come to good use. Google Maps took me to the far side and I walked through the enormous market.
Museum Siam. Understand the origin and history of the Thai people in a 19th-century European-style building. The exhibits at the Aythaya-era battle room and the traditional Thai toys sections are unique and interesting. You can even pretend to toss pad thai noodles at a street cart, along with other unique photo opportunities. 100 B
Dusit Maha Prasat Hall, Chakri Bongkot Palace. These are part of the Grand Palace, a complex of buildings that has been the official residence of the Kings of Siam (and later Thailand) since 1782. The king, his court, and his royal government were based on the grounds of the palace until 1925. King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), resided at the Chitralada Royal Villa and his successor King Vajiralongkorn (Rama X) at the Amphorn Sathan Residential Hall, both in the Dusit Palace, but the Grand Palace is still used for official events. Several royal ceremonies and state functions are held within the walls of the palace every year. The palace is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Thailand.
Construction of the palace began on 6 May 1782, at the order of King Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I), the founder of the Chakri dynasty, when he moved the capital city from Thonburi to Bangkok. Throughout successive reigns, many new buildings and structures were added, especially during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). By 1925, the king, the Royal Family and the government were no longer permanently settled at the palace and had moved to other residences. After the abolition of absolute monarchy in 1932, all government agencies completely moved out of the palace.
Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. Thai silk and other types of regional textiles within Indochina were centuries in the making. Up until the early 20th century, most Thais were still wearing traditional Thai clothing. With the arrival of European powers, Thai governing powers began to push for Western fashion in a bid to be perceived as modern inadvertently causing a decline in demand for Thai textiles. This downward trajectory of the industry continued until two key figures revived interest in local clothes and fashion in the 1950s. One of them was Jim Thompson and the other was the nation’s very own Her Majesty Queen Sirikit.
Thai textiles, in particular mudmee silk were transformed into high fashion pieces and many haute couture dresses. The result was a wardrobe of day dresses and evening gowns and the creation of eight distinct styles of Thai formal wear.
On the grounds of the Grand Palace, it preserves the history of Thai and Asian textiles. Today, one can see the queen’s iconic world tour dress collection on display. Free
ON Bangpho Journey
Day 6 Tue Feb 28
I was up early to go to NK Motorcycle Rental. I got a 125cc Honda for 900 B with a 2000 B deposit. No passport held. No insurance was available.
Bang Na Expressway. Motorbikes aren’t allowed on this and I didn’t know. I was stopped by the police about 2 km down the expressway, taken to a police station (on the back of a police motorcycle and paid a 500 B fine. It put me in a completely different starting point than I had planned. This was the inauspicious start to my day.
Bangkok Planetarium. A great deal at 50 B. Shows hourly with some in English.
Erawan Museum. A cultural and religious museum, the highlight is the mammoth 3-headed elephant. 400 B
Don’t drive this way expecting to cross the river on your motorcycle as these are not allowed.
Bhumibol Bridge. Another massive cable-stayed bridge, motorcycles can’t drive over it. The approaches are very high, and difficult to access and I passed under the south approach.
Kanchanaphisek Bridge, Samut Prakan. This is a very high cable-stayed bridge crossing the Chao Phraya River and part of the Outer Ring Road encircling Bangkok. Opened in 2007 and has a main span of 500 meters. with at least 2 massive towers. I didn’t cross it (motorcycles not allowed) but passed on the approach.
The bridge is 52 meters above sea level to allow cargo vessels to enter and exit. was the first bridge in Samut Prakan Province that connected Phra Pradaeng District on the east and west sides. There is a toll for its use.
I then returned the way I had come to see other sites in a different order than planned.
Wat Bang Phli Yai Klang. A large Buddhist complex with many temples and housing, the main temple has a massive orange stupa on top of three floors. Inside is a very fat, happy Buddha, a large fibreglass Buddha and many frescoes.
Rot Fai Market. I didn’t go here as it doesn’t open until 5 pm.
Megabangna. A two-level mall but many stores, I had Swedish meatballs at IKEA. 170 B
Seacon Square. Another huge shopping mall with the usual stores. I find these malls boring as they are so much the same with the same stores.
It was a 23 km drive to the market from here.
Or Tor Kor Market. A huge market with mostly produce and a large food court area. Only a few clothing stores. I had the best mocha frappe of my life at a coffee shop – it was topped with mocha ice cream for the same price.
Elephant Tower is a high-rise building at Paholyothin Road and Ratchadaphisek Road. The building is one of the better-known buildings in Bangkok as it resembles an elephant. The building has 32 floors and is 102 metres (335 ft) high. It was completed in 1997. The large white rectangular building has two “cut-outs”.
Condom Museum. Another one of Bangkok’s quirkier attractions, and given its reputation for naughty nightlife, perhaps a well-needed one. It is an effort by the Ministry of Health to get Thais to overcome their negative images of condom usage. The museum is tucked into the back of the sprawling Ministry of Health complex and is difficult to find. It has several small rooms that show the history of condom awareness and manufacturing in Thailand (Thailand is one of the world’s largest producers of condoms). There are sizes, colours, and flavours of every spectrum on display. Even more interesting are the strength and endurance testing rooms, where staff will show you just how far a piece of rubber can stretch! Free
Owl Market. A large very nice market with mostly clothes but also a large food court and small produce section.
Museum of Nonthaburi. Built in 1910, financial difficulties forced the college to close in 1925, and the large wooden buildings were then used as the provincial hall until 1992. Devoted to the art and history of Nonthaburi, a big portion of the displays are devoted to one of Nonthaburi’s most famous products, terra cotta pottery, which is still produced on Koh Kred. The additional galleries were closed and it was almost deserted. The museum is right at the Nonthaburi Pier of the Chao Phraya Express Boat, which is the end of the regular line of boat service.
Rama VII Bridge. One of the few bridges that is not cable-stayed, it has three piers and was very close to my hostel.
Tek Heng. In the NM Hospitality Legends series, this is a modern-looking restaurant with marble tables. At 18:45, there were no customers and a bored-looking staff.
130 years old, it is known especially for its famous, yummy, crispy, sweet and sour ‘Mee Krob’ or crispy noodles, Tek Heng (or Jeen Lee) has been known (or claimed) to have served King Rama V their special menu. The restaurant is minimally decorated with mirrored-covered posts and walls, an array of simple tables and chairs, the cash counter on one side with one windowed wall lined with newspaper clippings, pictures, and awards to boast its authenticity and age. Both types of crispy noodles were served with shrimp, crab meat, chopped vegetables, fried egg, and bean sprouts, topped with bits of parsley.
Rama III Bridge. Part of the Western Bangkok Outer Ring Road Expressway, it is still under construction. Cross the river beside it – the bridge towers well above this older bridge) and is not used. It uses a multipurpose erection truss that uses precast crossbeams and precast segmental parts at the same time to make it a double-deck expressway is to be constructed over the existing one. It is the first use of such a construction method in Thailand.
ASIATIQUE The Riverfront. Walk through a pedestrianized street with modern shops to the waterfront where there is a Ferris wheel, a three-masted ship that is a restaurant and is packed with tourists. Several restaurants line the waterfront. Many people board “dinner” boats.
It was 14 km to my hostel and I got back very tired at 20:30.
ON Bang Pho Journey
NONTHABURI
History, Culture, National and City Museums: Nonthaburi: Museum of Nonthaburi
Religious Temples: Nonthaburi: Wat Bangchak
Malls/Department StoresL Nonthaburi: Central Plaza Westgate
Markets: Nonthaburi: Owl Market
I left my hostel at 8:20 and drove 14 km to the Eurocar rental in the Sofitel Hotel – Toyota for four days with full insurance 5000 B ($150) and drove to Pattaya. The roads in Thailand are exceptionally good, all multilane divided highway.
THAILAND – EAST SOUTHERN (Trat, Chonburi, Prachinburi, Pattaya)
Sukhawadee is a European-style mansion by the sea that houses a statue of Kuan Yin and other sculptures that express the philosophy of living. Owned by Mr. Panya Chotitawan, the owner of Saha Farm, one of the biggest agricultural product exporters in Thailand. In 2000 during a huge economic crisis, Mr. Panya decided to build this luxurious castle with over a hundred people working together in unity. It consists of a group of pink and blue contemporary buildings with interior decoration and the gardens are all beautifully designed and also convey hidden abstract values. The Guan Yin (the Goddess of Mercy) Building has a precious gemstone decorated image of Guan Yin (the Goddess of Mercy). Buddha Tower has Buddha images including the 9.28 metres tall image of the Lord Buddha at birth. Buddhabaramee Building is a luxuriously decorated convention hall with a mural and the biggest carpet in the Asia Pacific. 400 B
Sanctuary of Truth is a hybrid of a temple and a castle that is themed on the Ayutthaya Kingdom, Buddhist and Hindu beliefs. The building is entirely wood – wood-carved idols and sculptures. The building has been under construction since 1981, and may not be finally completed until 2025.
A four-faced Hindu creator god Brahma statue on its rooftop. The Northern hall features Buddhist Guanyin and other sculptures featuring the wisdom of emancipation. The Southern Hall features astronomical themes, the sun, moon, and other planets impacting people’s well-being. The Western hall features representations of the classical elements (earth, water, wind, and fire) and sculptures of the Hindu Trinity: Lord Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, the gods who conquer the four elements. The Eastern Hall features familial representations. The main focus is to visually portray important Eastern religious concepts and the cycle of life.
Every surface of the structure is decorated with ornamentation from Thai, Hindu, Buddhist, Chinese, and Khmer traditions.
The wooden sanctuary is over 100 meters tall and makes for an impressive sight
ATV rides, cruises on traditional Thai gondolas, and controversial elephant rides. 400 B
PATTAYA (pop 1 million). On the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand, about 100 kilometres (62 mi) southeast of Bangkok, Pattaya was a fishing village until the 1960s. Tourism began during the Vietnam War when American servicemen began arriving on R&R (rest). One large group who arrived in 1959 rented houses at the south end of the beach, on what is now known as the “Strip”, are credited with recommending Pattaya, whose fame spread by word of mouth.
Pattaya has a massive population inflow from short-stay tourism, with its 2000 hotels and 136,000 rooms available as of 2015. A growing community of foreign retirees live in Pattaya. Thailand immigration has a special visa category for foreigners over age 50 who wish to retire in Thailand. Pattaya is attractive to many retirees from other countries not only because of its climate and lifestyle but also because living costs are lower than in many countries.
Beaches. The main sweep of the bay area is divided into two principal beachfronts. Pattaya Beach runs about 2.7 km long from the entrance to Walking Street. The beach, which used to be 35 m wide, suffers from erosion and in some places was reduced to a width of only two to three meters and sand from Ko Rang Kwian offshore was added to increase the beach width to 50 m. Without intervention, Pattaya will likely see its beaches disappear in roughly ten years. The beach is the first in the country to use imported sand to compensate for coastal erosion.
Phra Tamnak Hill on the south side of Pattaya has viewpoints and the temple (Wat Phra Yai) is on top of the hill between Jomtien and Pattaya city. Jomtien consists of high-rise condominiums, beachside hotels, bungalow complexes, shops, bars, and restaurants. The seawater along the busy central Pattaya beaches is of poor quality and could endanger human and marine life. In July 2017 Pattaya Beach was fouled for a week by raw sewage that poured out of a storm drain. Pattaya has 1,047 identified sources of sewage and garbage pollution, the number increasing as the city grows.
Tourism. Plenty of new attractions will lure lots more foreign and domestic tourists in the future up to 46.7 million over the next few years, one and half times the current 29.8 million visitors. Pattaya projects include developing a tram in the city and building a bigger cruise terminal, as well as new tourist attractions: a water park, an ice dome, cultural markets, Thai boxing gyms, theatres, and conference halls. All are under development. The aim is to get rid of the previous [seedy] image of Pattaya Fourteen million visitors in 2018 contributed 239 billion baht to the city’s treasury – more than 70% of Pattaya’s total income.
Pattaya has derived part of its reputation as a tourist destination due to the sex industry and the resulting nightlife, and this notoriety has influenced the city’s evolution in many ways. Prostitution in Thailand is technically illegal but tolerated in most cities, including Pattaya. The city’s vast numbers of host bars, gogo bars, massage parlours, saunas, and hourly hotels, serve foreign tourists as well as locals. This is especially prominent on Walking Street. The Daily Mirror has described Pattaya as “the world’s sex capital”, a “modern-day Sodom and Gomorrah”. But this figure is way too low. Pattaya also has Asia’s largest gay scene based around Boyztown, the Jomtien Complex, and Sunee Plaza. The city is also famous for its flamboyant kathoey cabaret shows where transsexual and transgender entertainers perform to packed houses.
In recent years, Pattaya has served as a hideaway for foreigners with connections to organized crime in their home countries, and dozens have been murdered in gang-related disputes.
Central Festival Pattaya Beach is another large shopping mall.
Walking Street. Boisterous nightlife with bars, nightclubs and restaurants. Many sex workers. Drivable during the day.
Wat Phra Yai (Big Buddha Temple). An 18-metre (59-feet) high golden Buddha statue overlooks Pattaya and Jomtien Beaches from its vantage point at the peak of Pratamnak Hill. A gentle staircase flanked with dragon-inspired railings leads to the elevated platform, where 7 smaller Buddha statues are also located.
Pattaya Floating Market. A highly commercialized set of small buildings with rough plank boardwalks and small bridges. Many tourists and tour buses.I then drove about 350 km to near Ta Phraya National Park, the most eastern part of the Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex, a WHS
ON A cute small motel with individual units. 450B including breakfast.Day 8 Thur Mar 2
Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex WHS spans 230 km between Ta Phraya National Park on the Cambodian border in the east, and Khao Yai National Park in the west. The site is home to more than 800 species of fauna, including 112 mammal species (among them two species of gibbon), 392 bird species and 200 reptile and amphibian species. It is internationally important for the conservation of globally threatened and endangered mammal, bird and reptile species, among them 19 that are vulnerable, four that are endangered, and one that is critically endangered. The area contains substantial and important tropical forest ecosystems, which can provide a viable habitat for the long-term survival of these species.
It comprises five almost contiguous Protected Areas; Khao Yai National Park, Thap Lan National Park, Pang Sida National Park, Ta Phraya National Park, and Dong Yai Wildlife Sanctuary. The complex also lies at the edge of the Tropical and Subtropical Moist Broadleaf Forest and the Indochina. .
Internationally important for its biodiversity and the conservation of globally threatened and endangered mammal, bird and reptile species, it is home to one critically endangered (Siamese Crocodile), four endangered (Asian Elephant, Tiger, Leopard Cat, Banteng) and 19 vulnerable species. White-headed and Pileated Gibbons have overlapping ranges and interbreed.
The Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex, with its high annual rainfall, acts as a critically important watershed for Thailand, draining into and feeding five of the country’s major rivers: Nakhon Nayok River, Prachin Buri River, Lamta Khong River, Muak Lek River, and Mun River. The waterfalls and creeks within the property, together with the variety of flora and fauna and dramatic forested landscapes, attract millions of visitors for recreation and education purposes.
