Taiwan Aug 20-28, 2023
Taiwan officially the Republic of China (ROC), is located at the junction of the East and South China Seas. The territories controlled by the ROC consist of 168 islands with a combined area of 36,193 square km. The main island of Taiwan, also known as Formosa, has mountain ranges dominating the eastern two-thirds and plains in the western third, where its highly urbanized population is concentrated. The capital, Taipei, forms along with New Taipei City and Keelung, the largest metropolitan area in Taiwan. With around 23.9 million inhabitants, Taiwan is among the most densely populated countries in the world.
Taiwan has been settled for at least 25,000 years. Ancestors of Taiwanese indigenous peoples settled the island around 6,000 years ago. In the 17th century, large-scale Han Chinese (specifically the Hakkas and Hoklos) immigration to western Taiwan began under a Dutch colony and continued under the Kingdom of Tungning, the first predominantly Han Chinese state in Taiwanese history. The island was annexed in 1683 by the Qing dynasty of China and ceded to the Empire of Japan in 1895. The Republic of China, which had overthrown the Qing in 1911, took control of Taiwan following the surrender of Japan in 1945. The immediate resumption of the Chinese Civil War resulted in the loss of the Chinese mainland to Communist forces, who established the People’s Republic of China and the flight of the ROC central government to Taiwan in 1949.
In the early 1960s, Taiwan entered a period of rapid economic growth and industrialization called the “Taiwan Miracle”. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, the ROC transitioned from a one-party state under martial law to a multi-party democracy, with democratically elected presidents since 1996. Taiwan’s export-oriented industrial economy is the 21st-largest in the world by nominal GDP and the 20th-largest by PPP measures, with a focus on steel, machinery, electronics, and chemicals manufacturing. Taiwan is a developed country, ranking 20th on GDP per capita by purchasing power parity (PPP) and 30th by nominal GDP per capita. It is ranked highly in terms of civil liberties, healthcare, and human development.
The political status of Taiwan is contentious. The ROC no longer represents China as a member of the United Nations after UN members voted in 1971 to recognize the PRC instead. Taiwan is claimed by the PRC, which refuses to establish diplomatic relations with countries that recognise the ROC. Taiwan maintains official diplomatic relations with 12 out of 193 UN member states and the Holy See, which governs Vatican City. Many others maintain unofficial diplomatic ties through representative offices and institutions that function as de facto embassies and consulates. International organizations in which the PRC participates either refuse to grant membership to Taiwan or allow it to participate only on a non-state basis under various names. Domestically, the major political contention is between parties favoring eventual Chinese unification and promoting a pan-Chinese identity, contrasted with those aspiring to formal international recognition and promoting a Taiwanese identity; into the 21st century, both sides have moderated their positions to broaden their appeal.
Capital. Taipei 25°04′N 121°31
Largest City. New Taipei City
Official languages. Standard Chinese
National languages. Mandarin, Hokkien, Hakka, Formosan, Matsu, Wuqiu
Ethnic groups. 95–97% Han Taiwanese, 2.3% indigenous, 0.7–2.7% other
Religion. 35.1% Buddhism, 33.0% Taoism, 26.7% no religion, 3.9% Christianity, 1.3% other
Area. 36,197 km2 (13,976 sq mi)
Population. 23,894,394[19] (56th). Density 650/km2 (1,683.5/sq mi) (10th)
GDP (PPP). $1.71 trillion (20th). Per capita $73,340 (15th)
GDP (nominal). $790.7 billion (21st). Per capita $33,907 (30th)
Gini. 34.1 medium
HDI. 0.926 very high · 19th
Currency. New Taiwan dollar (TWD). 1US$ = 31.9TWD; 1€ = 34.73TWD; 1CAD = 23.54TWD (xe.com Aug 20, 2023)
Driving side. Right
Calling code. +886
Getting In. A visa is not required for most Westerners. There are no Covid requirements. But an onward flight ticket is required to check into your flight. I had not checked the IATA website, didn’t know this, and bought a fake ticket in about 4 minutes at check-in.
Transportation. It is amazing how three close countries can deal with this in very different ways. China is the clear winner in every category with relatively few cars, the best high-speed rail and metro, rental bicycles and scooters, and the best bike lanes in the world. I rented a car in S Korea and Taiwan and one wasn’t necessary in China. Korea has no rental bicycles and Taiwan has almost none. With few bike lanes, it would be a dangerous place to ride a bicycle.
China has billions of electric scooters. Taiwan has none – they are all larger 125 cc plus, and gas-powered. I never rented one on this trip to Taiwan but did see Toroka Gorge on my first trip to Taiwan.
These scooters can only be described as a f**king pain. There are millions, they take up the entire right lane of any two-lane street, don’t pay attention to any rules, drive slow,ly and are constantly in the way. They expect respect but give none.
I drove through so many red lights that I lost count. With no traffic and constant red lights, it got very frustrating.
Taipei’s metro is very good but not up to China’s standard. The cars are older and don’t have lit route maps in all the cars. One needs a prepaid card – 450TD including the train from the airport into Taipei and an unknown amount of rides – not nearly as useful as Alipay. I have no idea what the cost in Taiwan is but doubt it is as cheap as China.
SIM. I bought a Taiwan Mobile card in the airport – 500TD for 10 days, unlimited data, 10 minutes of telephone but no extension possible. I had it in about 2 minutes. It was extremely fast,
OBSERVATIONS
Taiwan as a tourist destination. I grew to hate Taiwan after 8 days here, mostly related to all the frustrations driving. Here are the negatives.
1. Climate. Very hot and humid. One breaks into a heavy sweat just being outside. Taiwan is one of those countries that would be intolerable without AC.
2. Not much to see. There are no WHS or Tentative WHS and besides a few exceptions, is not a very interesting place.
3. Traffic control. Easily the most controlling and inefficient in the world. a. No right turn on red b. Zero stop signs so every intersection is controlled by traffic signals. c. Traffic signals cycle despite there being no vehicles (most countries have metal detectors that sense a vehicle wants to cross the intersection). d. Each intersection moves individually so each has 4 cycles. e. The signal duration is very long. A minor lane gets a light that cycles and the cycle often lasts 45 seconds. I have never spent so much time at intersections with no traffic moving. f. speed limits very low. It is not unusual to have a 4-lane divided highway at 60km/hour for long distances. The only highways that allow 100km/hr are major expressways. Virtually every speed limit could be increased by at least 20km/hr. g. Tunnels (especially on the East Coast) are two lanes wide but only one lane is allowed h. Very few passing lanes – virtually all are double solid marked. h. No lane control – slow traffic is often in the faster left-hand lane. i. Many speed cameras and they are not easy to spot.
In summary, at least half the signals could disappear with no loss to safety.
People. Unlike Koreans who have quite a different face and body structure, Taiwan is 98% Han Chinese. Women don’t dress to the same standard as Chinese but the men are much more “stylish”. People are almost as helpful.
Language ability is about the same. There are many fewer smokers in Taiwan.
Food. Better in Taiwan. The Raode Night Market in Taipei had an incredible selection.
Regulations are followed much more rigorously in Taiwan. China has no rules – jaywalking, and crossing against walking lights freely. Taiwan – no one crosses a street against a no-walk sign.
Covid. Probably more people here wearing masks than anywhere else in the world. Amazingly, 90% of motorcyclists wear masks!! This shows a surprising ignorance of how Covid is spread – they wear masks outside but have no problem sitting around a table eating with no masks.
Queuing. China – no queuing when getting onto the metro. Taiwanese pleasantly wait until everyone is out of the car. On escalators: China – has no standard; in Taiwan, everyone stands to the right side allowing walkers.
Museums. Completely free (especially if over 65) in China and many also in Taiwan. The no reduction for foreigners happened more here than elsewhere.
Day 1 Sun Aug 20
Flight. Incheon South Korea (ICN) – Taipei (TPE). Jeju Air @09:05-10:50, 2′ 45″. US$125.
I left the hotel with 2 1/2 hours to departure, 40 minutes to drive (5,500W toll), 5 minutes to clean the car of all the cigarette ashes, find departures, check-in (required an onward flight so booked a fake flight to Jakarta in about 4 minutes), security (bypassed the line and I kept my lighter!), immigration, my gate required a train ride, a long walk to the gate, spending all the rest of my money on cigarettes (left with about $3), and actually arriving in time for a cigarette!!
At the Taipei Airport, I bought a SIM (10 days, unlimited data 500 TD), used an ATM, talked to two car rental companies in the airport, bought a Taipei metro pass, and took the MTN (metro) to Taipei Main Station, 5 minutes from my hostel.
I initially went the wrong way (go through Taipei Mall to Exit 13) and by the time I entered Taiyuan Street, it was a torrential downpour. I returned to the mall and bought an umbrella. It was quite a storm with heavy lightning and thunder.
ON Meander 1948 at Taipei Station. 70TD towards breakfast here or at restaurants in the area.
TAIWAN – NORTH WEST (Taipei, Hsinchu, Taichung, Changhua, Matsu and Kinmen)
TAIPEI/NEW TAIPEI/KEELUNG
Day 2 Mon Aug 21
To bed early and up early, I sat outside the hostel on a bench and organized many of the NM sites in northern Taiwan.
After BF in the hostel, did my wash, organized a car rental, and finished other business including my NM verification for WHS (had to prove that I visited 20 WHS, lost one, 14 were okayed from my website and I had to give additional documentation for 5).
I then had a walk/metro to see the following ending at the night market.
I walked and used the metro 4 times to see all the following.
Ximending (Shi-men Ting). Ximending is a neighborhood and shopping district in the Wanhua District of Taipei. Ximending is the source of Taiwan’s fashion, subculture, and Japanese culture, Ximending also is a popular shopping district for young people.
Taiyuan Asian Puppet Theatre Museum. Originally a tea factory, the Nadou Theatre was transformed into a puppet theatre. It was completely restored in 2012, but in 2020, the entire contents were donated to the National Taiwan Museum. The cute brick two-story building appears to be a meeting centre for old people.
Immaculate Conception Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Datong District, The Latin Rite church serves as the site of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Taipei.
The original building was built by the Spanish in 1629 but was destroyed in a raid. Between 1911 and 1914, a new church was built in the Gothic style. During World War II, the church was bombed in 1945 and then replaced with a simpler structure. Reconstruction began in 1959, ending in May 1961. All Masses and other religious services in the cathedral are offered in Mandarin Chinese.
This is an odd A-frame building with a central cross. The end walls are all glass. It was closed when I went there.
Taipei Bridge is a motor-vehicle bridge across the Tamsui River connecting Taipei with Sanchong District, New Taipei City. A central span carries automobile and some motorcycle traffic while narrower spans on either side carry most motorcycle traffic along with bicycle pedestrian traffic. The central bridge is 481.6 meters in length.
Initially, an 1889 wooden bridge carried only rail traffic. In 1899, the railway was removed and in 1920, a wooden pedestrian bridge was built but again damaged by a flood. A 1925 steel truss/concrete bridge replaced it and played a role in the rapid growth of Sanchong’s population. A 1969 concrete bridge had four lanes of automobile traffic.
The current 1996 bridge has six lanes of automobile traffic and two lanes of motorcycle and bicycle traffic and now carries Provincial Highway No. 1A.
Hsing Tian Kong (Xingtian Temple). From 1956 to 1967, Master Hsuan Kung used vast amounts of his own funds to build the main Hsing Tian Kong in downtown Taipei, and two branch temples, one in Sanxia, New Taipei City, and the other in Beitou, Taipei City. His vision and unstinting efforts created the majestic grandeur of Hsing Tian Kong today. The main Hsing Tian Kong, also known as En Chu Kong Temple, is located in downtown Taipei City. On average it is visited by several tens of thousands of believers every day.
A Tao temple, there were many worshippers kneeling on wide red cushions in the front. Many were tossing crescent-shaped plastic “dice” – the flat side had written and the convex side was empty. Ask a question of your god and get an answer – two flat sides = yes, two convex sides = no, and one of each = phrase your question better. There was a riot of deities surrounded by ornate gilt frames, but the temple itself could not be entered. The buildings had elaborate swooping roof lines embellished with many dragons, the beams and support joists a riot of colour.
Eslite Spectrum Songyan Mall. Located in the Xinyi shopping district near the Taipei Dome (a huge sports complex dubbed “the egg” and surrounded by the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park a large open plaza that connects to an old tobacco factory that has been converted into a modern exhibition space plus a lake. Along with a hotel, and many retail shops, there are restaurants, tea, and coffee shops, a performance hall, and an Eslite bookstore branch. The latter occupies the entire third floor.
National Sun Yet-sen Memorial Hall is a multi-use structure built in 1972 to honor Sun Yat-sen, providing cultural & educational programs. It is a huge square building with three floors. There is a large museum about the Sun, a grand seated stature, two large portraits, and a lovely art gallery on the first. Other floors have two galleries and an auditorium.
Sun Yet-sen (1866-1925, Beijing), leader of the Chinese Nationalist Party (Kuomintang), was known as the father of modern China. Influential in overthrowing the Qing (Manchu) dynasty (1911/12), he served as the first provisional president of the Republic of China (1911–12) and later as de facto ruler (1923–25).
Taking advantage of China’s defeat in the Sino-Japanese War (1894–95) and the ensuing crisis, Sun went to Hong Kong in 1895 and plotted an uprising in Guangzhou. When the scheme failed, he began a 16-year exile abroad. He was involved in 10 revolts between 1895 and 1911. From 1903, his following came increasingly from the educated class.
The Qing, if only for self-preservation, started reform – reorganized the army, instituted a school system, abolished the civil-service examinations, reconstructed many government organs, and convened provincial and national assemblies. The educated class nevertheless remained unsatisfied.
In 1911 the Qing decided to nationalize all the trunk railways, thus incurring the wrath of local vested interests. Armed rebellion broke out. Sun returned to Shanghai and was elected provisional president. On Feb. 12, 1912, the emperor abdicated.
In 1924 Sun reorganized the Nationalist Party and approved the establishment of a military academy (of which Sun appointed Chiang Kai-shek president). Although these actions strengthened the Nationalists, there was still considerable opposition to Sun’s authority when he died of cancer in Beijing in March 1925. His coffin remained uninterred in a temple in Xishan until 1929, when it was moved to a mausoleum in Nanjing.
Sun’s political doctrines are summarized in his Three Principles of the People (nationalism, democracy, and people’s livelihood—the last involving the regulation of private capital and “equalizing land rights”). All contemporary sources attribute to him a magnetic personality, a great capacity for tolerating others’ weaknesses, a singular dedication to the pursuit of power, and a knowledge of the West unequaled by that of any of his political rivals. Perhaps the last factor is the most important, for it is this that set Sun apart and made him the symbol of Chinese modernization. Quite fittingly, the Chinese communists call him “a pioneer of the revolution.”
Fubon Xinyi A25 is a skyscraper in Xinyi, the third-tallest building in Taipei, and the fifth-tallest in Taiwan. Designed by Renzo Piano, and was completed in 2022 as the headquarters of Fubon Financial Holding Co.
It has three buildings, the central 56-story, 266.3 m (874 ft) high tower and 56 floors above ground with high-end offices and a rooftop garden, the 3-floor high Fubon Museum, and the Pavilion with retail and services. The square shape with cut-back notch corners and a steel frame provides a robust and efficient structural system to resist lateral seismic and typhoon wind loads. The façades are low-iron extra white glass with a neutral-colored solar control coating to give the tower a crystalline appearance.
Raohe Street Night Market. Taipei comes alive at night when the often-oppressive temperatures recede. One of the city’s oldest night markets, easily accessible by Metro, this offers the city’s most staggering variety of grilled, fried, steamed, torched, skewered, and candied dishes — including plenty with the much-venerated chewy, squidgy texture known here as “Q”. Raohe has the added bonus of being located next to another Taipei institution, the stunning Ciyou Temple.
Songshan Ciyou Temple. Expansive Buddhist temple with ornate architectural details, Taoist & Buddhist deities & a library
The last stop – Songshan on the green line, passes through the Songshan market to the street market – two rows of movable carts with a great selection of street food. I had tempura mushrooms and squid, and a sausage.
The green line stop was Beiman and exit 3 of Taipei Main station, then a 10-minute walk to the hostel.
ON Meander 1948.
Day 3 Tue Aug 22
I left the hostel at 08:30 and walked to Exit 3 of the train station to pick up my rental car – Chailease.com.tw (Hertz) 9700TD (40% reduction for 6-day rental) for their smallest car, a Toyota Yaris, for 6 days, no excess insurance (650/day), and used my MC World Elite credit card that covers car insurance. You need your country’s driver’s license and an International license.
My first duty was to see as many NM sites south of the hostel and continue to circumnavigate Taiwan counterclockwise. It would be a lot of driving.
Museum of Contemporary Art. In an old building typical of the Japanese era, only the Studio is free, and the main exhibition is 100TD. I dislike these museums so much, that I only saw the studio, two small rooms of typical modernist art.
Taipei Zoo. Formosan animals, rainforest, African, desert, Australian, temperate and bird exhibition areas, but no pandas. Good caging. 60TE, 30 reduced.
Hippo Sculptures. Hippo Square at Taipei Zoo. Comprising a pod of semisubmerged hippos at play
Daan Forest Park. In the NM Urban Legends series, this large city-center park has grassy picnic areas, a playground, footpaths & ponds with wildlife.
National Chang Kai-shek Memorial Museum. Surrounded by a long white wall and a big park, this monument is a white stone with a double octagonal blue roof. Climb 89 steps (his age) and enter a huge square hall with a domed roof. His statue is of him sitting. Free 25 for parking.
Chang Kai-shek (1887–1975), was a Chinese politician, revolutionary, and military leader who served as the leader of the Republic of China and the Generalissimo from 1928 to his death in 1975 – until 1949 in Mainland China and from then in Taiwan. Following the Kuomintang’s defeat by the Chinese Communist Party in the Chinese Civil War, he continued to lead the ROC government in Taiwan until his death.
Born in Zhejiang, Chiang was a member of the Kuomintang, and a lieutenant of Sun Yat-sen in the revolution to overthrow the Beiyang government and reunify China. With help from the Soviets and the Chinese Communist Party, Chiang organized the military for Sun’s Canton Nationalist Government and headed the Whampoa Military Academy. As commander-in-chief of the National Revolutionary Army (where he came to be known as a Generalissimo), he led the Northern Expedition from 1926 to 1928, before defeating a coalition of warlords and nominally reunifying China under a new Nationalist government. Midway through the Northern Expedition, the KMT–CCP alliance broke down and Chiang massacred communists and KMT leftists inside the party, triggering a civil war with the CCP, which he eventually lost in 1949.
When the Second World War ended, the Civil War with the communists (then led by Mao Zedong) resumed. Chiang’s nationalists were mostly defeated in a few decisive battles in 1948. In 1949, Chiang’s government and army retreated to the island of Taiwan, where Chiang imposed martial law and persecuted critics during the White Terror. Presiding over a period of social reforms and economic prosperity, Chiang won five elections to six-year terms as President of the Republic of China in which he faced minimal opposition or was elected unopposed. Three years into his fifth term as president, and one year before Mao Zedong’s death, he died in 1975.
One of the longest-serving non-royal heads of state in the 20th century, Chiang was the longest-serving non-royal ruler of China, having held the post for 46 years. Like Mao, he is regarded as a controversial figure. Supporters credit him with playing a major part in unifying the nation and leading the Chinese resistance against Japan, as well as with countering CCP influence and economic development in both Mainland China and Taiwan. Detractors and critics denounce him as a brutal dictator at the front of a corrupt authoritarian regime that suppressed civilians and political dissents and often accuse him of being a fascist.
Evergreen Maritime Museum. In a foundation building on the 5th floor, 3 nice models in the lobby and many in the museum. 200TD, 100 if >60.
*The Republic of China Armed Forces Museum was a museum located in the Zhongzheng District. It opened in 1961 and served to preserve and present the heritage and history of the ROC military. The museum closed permanently in 2021, to be replaced by the upcoming National Military Museum which is still not open.
Statue of Lin Sen. In Jieshou Park, an urban park in Zhongzheng District. Lin Sen was a former President of the Republic of China. And on the west side of the park, there is a Memorial to the Victims of the White Terror. The name of the park Jieshou means celebrating Chiang Kai-shek’s birthday in Mandarin. In 1968, the former President of the Republic of China Lin Sen was 100 years old.
On a three-tiered platform and plinth is this large copper/rust-colored statue of him standing.
Bangka Qingshan Temple. This is a tiny Tao temple in a small triangular park with a wild riot of characters and dragons. There is no image of a god inside, just a dragon.
Bopiliao Historical Block. In the NM Urban Legends series, this historic city block features traditional Qing dynasty 18th-century architecture (two-story brick with lattice wood windows, brick columns, and a pedestrian street in the middle. Also an educational center.
Longshan Temple. Not to be missed with incredible roof lines of dragons and figures and dragon-entwined columns, the main temple has a two-tiered pagoda roof, and three main gilt bronze statures surrounded by an ornate interior of gilt. Tao.
Taipei Botanical Garden. A lovely garden with a big lotus pond and many sections – zodiac, bamboo, Australian, succulents, ferns, Buddhiist, crops, and more. Free
National Museum of History. Closed for renovation.
228 Memorial Museum. The February 28 incident was an anti-government uprising in Taiwan that was violently suppressed by the Kuomintang-led nationalist government. Thousands of civilians were killed and is considered a critical impetus for the Taiwan independence movement.
In 1945, following the surrender of Japan at the end of World War II, the Allies handed administrative control of Taiwan over to China, thus ending 50 years of Japanese colonial rule. Local residents became resentful of what they saw as high-handed and frequently corrupt conduct on the part of the Kuomintang (KMT) authorities, including the arbitrary seizure of private property, economic mismanagement, and exclusion from political participation. The flashpoint came on February 27, 1947, in Taipei, when agents struck a Taiwanese widow suspected of selling contraband cigarettes. An officer then fired into a crowd of angry bystanders, striking one man, who died the next day. Soldiers fired upon demonstrators the next day, after which a radio station was seized by protesters and news of the revolt was broadcast to the entire island. As the uprising spread, the KMT-installed governor Chen Yi called for military reinforcements, and the uprising was violently put down. Two years later, and for 38 years thereafter, the island would be placed under martial law in a period known as the “White Terror.”
During the White Terror, the KMT persecuted perceived political dissidents, and the incident was considered taboo to be discussed until 1995. February 28 is now an official public holiday called Peace Memorial Day. Monuments and memorial parks are in 228 Peace Memorial Park and the Kaohsiung Museum of History.
The number of deaths from the incident and massacre was estimated to be between 18,000 and 28,000. Other estimates are much lower. Each family of anyone who died in the period was awarded NT$6,000,000, about US$150,000. A total of 800 people came forward to get the awards.
Taiwanese perceptions of Japanese rule were more positive than elsewhere. The harsh conduct and the corrupt KMT administration had state monopolies in tobacco, sugar, camphor, tea, paper, chemicals, petroleum refining, mining, and cement, Chen Yi was nicknamed “robber” as he confiscated some 500 Japanese-owned factories and mines, as well as the homes of former Japanese residents.
Economic mismanagement led to a large black market, runaway inflation, and food shortages. Many commodities were bought cheaply by the KMT, shipped to Mainland China and sold at a very high profit The price of rice rose to 100 times then 400 times by January 1947.
NEW TAIPEI
Museum of World Religions. A nice museum but one I learned little from and had difficulty with because of my atheism. Exhibits on purification, pilgrims, creation, five stages of life, religious leaders, meditation, hall f world religions with history, rituals and beliefs, and gratitude. 300TD, 270 TD >65.
Hungludi Tudigong Xiang. Hongludi Nanshan Fude Temple, a decorative hilltop Buddhist temple adorned by statues of dragons & gods, with city & sunset vistas. On Nanshijiao Mountain.
A Tudigong is a Chinese tutelary deity of a specific location. They are tutelary (i.e. guardian or patron) deities of locations and the human communities who inhabit them in Chinese folk religion and Taoism. They are portrayed as old men with long beards. They are considered to be among the lowest-ranked divinities, just below City Gods, and above landlord gods. Often, a specific person who did a great service to their local community will be seen as becoming a Tudigong after their death.
TAOYUAN
Taiwan High-Speed Rail Museum. Requires a reservation. Scan the QR code and get one four days away. How dumb is this? I whined a lot about how stupid this was and a woman was called and they let me see the museum. The exhibitions include the history and construction of the High-Speed Rail, train construction and repair, and other high-speed rail systems worldwide. Free
Longtan Lake or Longtan Tourist Pond is a lake in Shanglin Village, Taoyuan City, The lake is known for the Buddhist temple in the centre of the lake. The lake was originally built for irrigation. After the construction of a temple nearby and a long cable-stayed suspension bridge to the island temple, the lake turned into a major tourist attraction in 1971.
The lake is 18 hectares and has a bicycle trail, kiddy pool, children’s playground, lookout point, walking trail, memorial hall, water plant area, outdoor fitness facility, and several pavilions (including a particular ugly modern thing behind the temple. The lake is the venue for the annual dragon boat race.
I sat on a bench on the edge and wrote this after a long day of driving.
Window on China Theme Park. Roller coasters, Ferris wheel, bumper cars, and miniatures of the architectural marvels of Taiwan, Europe, Asia, the United States, and China.
ON 101 Hotel, Hsinchu. US$27. Parking was an adventure. I eventually parked around the corner on a yellow line zone and hoped I wouldn’t get a ticket but several other cars were parked overnight.
HSIN CHU/ZHUBEI/TOUFEN
Hsinchu (pop 450,655) Hsinchu is a coastal city bordering the Taiwan Strait to the west. Nicknamed the Windy City for its strong northeastern monsoon during the autumn and winter seasons.
The area was originally settled by the Austronesian Taiwanese indigenous peoples, with the settlement being named “Tek-kham” by the Hoklo immigrants. The city was founded by Han Chinese settlers in 1711 and renamed Hsinchu in 1878.
In 1980, the Taiwanese government established the Hsinchu Science Park, a major industrial park, and a significant centre for semiconductor manufacturing, and industrial and computer technology development. The park contributes a major proportion of Taiwan’s GDP. This made Hsinchu a vital economic hub for its economy; the headquarters of TSMC, the world’s largest independent semiconductor foundry, MediaTek, and United Microelectronics Corporation, are both located in the park.
Badly designed traffic lights – one is forever waiting.
On a very hot humid day, I had a drive about.
Museum of Military Villages. In 1949, many military with their families arrived in Taiwan and settled in over 200 make-shift villages. This is the history of their life. Free
City Art Gallery. Thread dolls and 5 interesting videos – a woman and food during her pregnancy, a black woman, artists, and the story of a woman who lived through the Japanese occupation, the Korean War, who was imprisoned for maintaining relations with a northern family and final reunification with her husband. In a nice Japanese brick building. Free
Image Museum (OR Lightbox). In a former lovely art deco 1933 theater, this museum has vintage & art films & promotes cinema education. Two old film projectors are in the lobby but the films are all in Korean and not much interest. Free
Municipal Glass Art Museum. Lots of beautiful glass. 50TD, free if >65. The studio next door does lampworking glass where a torch is used ot melt the glass, then blown and shaped (flameworking).
Hsinchu Zoo. A very small zoo with almost no interesting animals. Has a crazy expensive concrete viewing platform that looks down on a few cages. Only for children. 50tD, free if >65.
Da Guan Gong. Standing at a height of 36.60 meters, Da Guan Gong is a statue of Guan Yu completed in the year of 1975. Painted in bright colours. It’s in front of Hsinchu City’s Putian Temple. The temple created it for the Taiwan Lantern Festival,
Gaofeng Botanical Garden. A very unusual BG, with only trees in a forest. The sign at the beginning lists all the trees in English common names but after that, the signs are only in Mandarin, not even the Latin name. Don’t go down the path to the left of the sign as it leads to bush, but take the path to the left of the sign. A pleasant walk in the woods but not very informative. Free
MIAOLI
Great Mazu of Chunan. At the Zhunan Houcuo Longfeng Temple. Everything about this place is completely OTT – intensely elaborate roof lines covered with dragons and figures, bas-relief columns of dragons, the first temple a riot of gilt around the god, and a second temple with the Mazu (huge figure of a pink-faced woman, that can only be well seen from the street) sitting on top – a million LED “candles” and thousands of identical ornate figures. Lovely bas-relief “plaques” on all the outside walls and columns.
Mialoi Railway Museum. An unusual train museum with no trains just displays and videos, one of the saloon cars Prince Hirohito traveled around western Taiwan in 1913. An unusual spiral tower. I don’t know who designed this museum but it was not good value. Free.
Miaoli Park (Taiwan Hakka Museum), Tongluo Township. In an extravagant OTT building on a high hill, explains the Hakka people who claim to not be Han and have their own language. From 1750, they migrated from the central plains all over the world, combined their culture, and integrated into where they found themselves, creating a diverse group. Free 50TD parking.
West Lake Resortopia, Sanyi. A resort with a hotel and many recreational opportunities – European-style flower gardens, a miniature golf course, jogging and hiking trails, a barbecue area, a roller coaster, and an amusement area for children.
Lihpao Discovery land. Taiwan’s biggest resort park, covering an area of 200 hectares, combines the country’s biggest dual land and water theme parks, the Fullon Hotel Lihpao Land five-star resort hotel, escape room attraction, the Lihpao Outlet Mall, Lihpao Road Station, the Lihpao Racing Park and Sky Dream, Taiwan’s biggest Ferris wheel. With this unprecedented integration of multiple forms of entertainment and leisure.
What a waste of time! I went to as little as I could, the outlet mall.
TAICHUNG/NANTOU
Fengyuan Lacquer Art Museum. As all explanations were in Chinese, it seemed that there wasn’t much explanation and it seemed like a retail store. All pieces had a price tag that seemed very high. Upstairs was a workshop with about 20 people painting the same picture of a bird. Free
Taiwan Balloon Museum. In the NM Bizzarium series, permanently closed
Taichung Literature Museum. Several small brown “houses” with lattice windows, several closed, all very confusing as all in Mandarin. One had small vignettes of what appeared to be authors. Free
National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts. Wow, don’t miss this. A huge modern building with many exhibits on partial walls along the corridors. There were the finalists of a large competition with the gold, silver, and bronze winners (and others) in gauche, oil, photography, and watercolour painting. I loved almost everything here, except the small galleries with contemporary art. Free
Museum of Fiber Arts (Textiles Museum). I believe these are the same although the name above the entrance is Fibre Arts. A wonderful display of fibre woven products – thread, metal, rattan, quilting, embroidery, rugs, bamboo, felt, and silk in a huge variety of commercial and art products. Upstairs are looms and more on different fibers. Free
Asia Museum of Modern Art. Besides the architectural display in the lobby, there is only one small gallery of one artist (and I don’t know how to describe it and forget the name). But another big beautiful building. 200TD 100 reduced
921 Earthquake Museum of Taiwan. Chi-Chi earthquake (later also known as the Jiji earthquake) was a 7.3 ML or 7.7 Mw earthquake that occurred in Jiji (Chi-Chi), Nantou County, Taiwan on Tuesday, 21 September 1999 at 01:47:12 local time.[2] 2,415 people were killed, 11,305 injured, and NT$300 billion worth of damage was done. It is the second-deadliest earthquake in Taiwan’s recorded history, after the 1935 Shinchiku-Taichū earthquake.
Dubbed the “Quake of the Century” by the local media, had a profound effect on the economy of the island and the consciousness of the people, and dissatisfaction with the government’s performance in reacting to it was said by some commentators to be a factor in the unseating of the ruling Kuomintang party in the 2000 presidential election.
The earthquake was in an unusual location for Taiwan, which experiences the majority of its earthquakes off the eastern coast, with such quakes normally causing little damage.
Damage caused included 2,415 deaths, 29 missing, 11,305 severely wounded, with 51,711 buildings completely destroyed, 53,768 buildings severely damaged, and a total of NT$300 billion (US$10 billion) worth of damage. Power was cut to a large proportion of the island, due to damage to power stations, and transmission stations, and the automatic shutdown of Taiwan’s three nuclear power plants, which were restarted two days later.
132 landslides.
Houtanjing Sky Bridge. A great suspension bridge with a wood deck. I arrived 15 minutes before closing and the girl let me in for free. I only walked about halfway across. The bridge spans 204 meters with 265 steps. The clearance below it to the bottom of the valley is 150 meters. 50TD
Fangyuan Lighthouse. Tall, black with 8 vertical white ribs. A 50-minute drive from Houtanjiang.
LUKANG
Lukang Mazu Temple. Another temple with a riot of dragons and figures on the roof, bas-relief carved columns, and OTT gilt interiors, this one with a grey stone god.
Lukang Old Street. A narrow pedestrian street lined with the original small red brick houses, most 1-1 1/2 stories. Most look unoccupied. A few stores and not many people. Some lovely doors.
TAICHUNG
Tunghai Night Market. I think this market is no longer happening, like so many night markets. There were a few street stalls and a lot of motorcycles. I had fried chicken and squid.
Fend Chia Night Market. Very busy but with all established businesses and no movable food carts. I had a pork bun.
Eslite Spectrum. Like all this chain, a big bookstore and high-end products.
ON Star Hostel Taichung Parklane. A very new modern hostel, but slightly on the sterile side. Must wear slippers inside. Not much social life despite a large nice common area as everyone is Chinese, not the most sociable people. Reception and common area on 15th floor, dorms and bathrooms on the 14th. US$35
Park in the parkaide of Parklane. I parked in the lot to the east and couldn’t pay – no cash or any of the 10 card options given but was able to drive over the flexible yellow barricade posts!!!! And then was so flustered, I drove through a red light. OMG
Day 5 Thur Aug 24
I had a choice to make – a big detour through the mountains to see mainly pedestrian bridges and waterfalls or to continue south. Because of time, I decided to go south.
Rainbow Family Village. In the NM Bizzarium series, Vibrant, colorful art is painted on the street & homes of a former veterans’ village. One of the designs is crocheted designs in large metal hoops.
CHANGHUA
Changhua Roundhouse. A railway museum is now converted into a park with a toy train track and Peanuts cartoon motif, restaurants etc, multiple tracks with an old freight train leading to the roundhouse. Access on a dead-end street, so frustrating driving.
GO TO TAIWAN SOUTH
RETURNING FROM TAIWAN EAST Aug 26
Sandiaojiao Lighthouse (San Diego LH). High in the headland above the highway, this is a relatively short two-tiered white LH. No views can be had down to the ocean.
There is a large weather dome, a gazebo, and a small park, all very crowded on a Saturday afternoon.
Gongliao district (extreme northeast).
SHIFEN
Shifen Old Street. Railroad tracks run through this old street with shops & restaurants, plus sky-lantern lighting. This was extremely busy on a Saturday. Many food stalls and knick-knack shops. One could buy a “fire balloon” – a light paper balloon powered by a real fire – two colours 200TD, 4 colours 250TD, and many did. They went extremely high and I wondered about fire hazards. Near me, one got caught in a tree, quickly burned up, and only blackened the leaves.
Shifen Waterfall. After parking, it is about a one km walk to the falls – over two suspension bridges and several stairs. A huge crowd was there. The waterfall falls over a dam creating a wide cascade that is quite pretty.
Taiwan Coal Mining Museum. High above and SW of Shifen, walk about 700 m to the mine, and ride a toy train but only get to look into the mine tunnel. 200TD, no reduction as is private.
Jiufen Old Street. Jiufen is a small town clinging to a mountainside. The bustling district is known for its narrow streets, food stalls & sweeping views of the mountains & sea. A stream of public buses, tour buses, taxis, and private cars streamed up the switchbacking road. I parked illegally and walked about halfway down the narrow street crammed with people. I didn’t see anything I wanted to eat and turned back.
Houtong Cat Village. In the NM Bizzarium series, this is the Ruishan Coal Mining facility (600 km of tunnels) in the village of Houtong with a small museum that has become known for its cats that wander freely. I saw 8 in the small space, all different colours and many lounging around being petted. These cats were very accepting and seemed to love all the attention.
KEELUNG*
Keelung Miaokou Night Market. Another madhouse of a market with thousands here on a Saturday night. It was difficult to move down the pedestrian street – all established businesses with no movable carts and many with seating. I had a not-so-good curry.
Wanli District, known in Basay as Masu, is a rural district on the rocky seacoast in northeastern New Taipei City in northern Taiwan. Wanli is a popular tourist destination and the site of the Cape Yeliu Miocene Formation which features distinctive hoodoo outcrops
Wanli UFO Village (aka Futuros) is a neighborhood of abandoned futuristic houses (all the same – small round-cornered prefab buildings) near Wanli Beach (aka Emerald Bay, Green Bay, or Feicuiwan) in Wanli District and are some of the most popular urban exploration and Instagram destinations in northern Taiwan.
If you are looking for the Sanzhi UFO houses (三芝飛碟屋), stop looking; the Sanzhi UFO houses were destroyed in 2010. There are UFO houses all around Taiwan, but Wanli has the largest group of these houses.
The UFO house village was created in the 1970s by a Taiwan construction company. At the time during martial law, Wanli Beach (Feitsui Bay) was one of the few places where American servicemen could enjoy a beach vacation, as most beaches were closed off at the time. These UFO houses had these servicemen in mind. However, a slowing economy and the severing of official diplomatic ties with the USA prevented the area from taking off, and the UFO resort town fell into decay.
Some of the houses are not abandoned and still have people living in them. Do not walk near these houses, try to walk in, or invade their privacy.
Get there. By Car/Scooter: Take Provincial Highway 2 West out of Keelung, and keep going until you reach the Howard Green Bay Resort, Turn in and drive down to the beach. They are on the beach (single units, 2 lived-in) and the two roads above (two round real UFO-looking units like the ones below and similar to the others but built on walk-in basements)
ON All hotels and hostels were booked in the entire Keelung area and I slept in my car at the UFO houses. I had a very pleasant quiet night.
Day 8 Sun Aug 27
I continued my drive about with only sites in north New Taipei City and Taipei to see.
NEW TAIPEI
Ju Ming Museum, Open-Air Museums. Not open till 10 am.
Wuqiu Lighthouse, Wuqiu. Park and walk around the large military complex to the LH sitting on the edge of the water.
Dingshan Shell Temple (Fufudingshan Shell and Coral Temple) Sanzhi. Wow, don’t miss this one. The 9 km drive up the steep winding road and the green metal cladding on the outside won’t impress you, but the temple is one of the most spectacular creations in the world. 13 chandeliers front the two big fish gods and columns all constructed of shells. The altar and the two low tunnels on the sides (don’t miss these) are mostly coral. Niches on each side of the altar hold small carved wood gods, 3 gods are in the back of the altar and there are more along the tunnel. Easily in my top 10 churches in the world.
Over 60,000 meticulously strung-together pieces of seashells and corals decorate this stunning underwater-themed temple. Instead of the usual lion-dog statues that preface more traditional temples, dragonhead turtles are the guardians of the choice here.
Located five miles from the sea, this shrine is an homage to the 18 disciples of Buddha, Matsu (the goddess of the sea), and a Buddhist monk named Ji Gong—a quirky monastic who drank profusely and ate a lot of meat, yet was an advocate for the poor. Taiwan is a place that embraces polytheism, and it’s quite common to see a multitude of deities housed peacefully in the same space.
While there are over 15,000 temples spread across the island, this nautical sea shrine has a unique sense of quirkiness. Built in 1996, it took two years to complete the entire structure. The entrance is adorned with a long row of shell-beaded chandeliers, and the main attraction is a narrow five-foot-tall tunnel packed with bright white coral on all sides. Even the incense burners are graced with a thick layer of shell and coral stubs.
Yangmingshan NP
TAMSUI
Wuji Tianyuan Temple. A monumental temple with a 5-tiered round pagoda attracts huge crowds during cherry blossom season. (out of the way towards the NP). 6 gods all in a black wood altar.
I watched a prayer – about 50 people all in yellow with their fingers intertwined in front of them, several gongs of a bell, a drum rising to a crescendo, repeated twice more and then it was over. Behind is a large colourful 5-level pagoda that can be entered for great views.
A 13. km drive across the base of the mountain with a lot of buildings and traffic.
Tamsui Lover’s Bridge. A lovely wide cable-stayed bridge with a convex curve crosses the marina to a perpendicular boardwalk with shops underneath.
The craziest parking. Push the button on the lower left to get a token and then pass it through the card slot in the machine at the lot. Free as it didn’t accept my coins and turn in the token.
Hobe Fort. A 6.5 m high wall surrounding a courtyard, 4 parapets, nothing to see. 80TD no reduction if foreigner.
Fort San Domingo. Climb some steep stairs to the former British consular residence, a lovely two-story red brick arcaded building (see dining room, office, sitting room, and two bedrooms upstairs. Nine flags represent Spain (1642), the Dutch, Koxinga, Qing, Britain, Japan, Australia, the US (to 1980), and Taiwan who administered the fort. Included in Fort Hobe ticket.
Tengfeng Fish Ball Museum (Fish Ball and Beer Bar). In the NM Bizzarium series, the name is only in Mandarin and very hard to find. Permanently closed.
Tamkang University Maritime Museum. Closed Sundays?
Guandu Bridge. A red steel girder bridge with three arches. It crosses the Tamsui River and links Bali District and Tamsui District. The bridge is a 165 meters long through arch bridge. It now carries the Provincial Highway 15. Construction dates were 1980-1983.
Nung Chan Monastery (Darma Drum Mountain). A very modern square temple with outside columns, one white stone Buddha fronted by a turtle drum and a standard drum. Large pool outside with three enclosed lily ponds.
TAIPEI
On the north side of Taipei City
Taipei Astronomical Museum. Purely for kids – Earth, solar system, Milky Way, galaxies, and the universe on three floors. I had nothing to learn here. 40TD
Taipei Astronomical Museum Planetarium
Modern Toilet Restaurant. In the NM Bizzarium series, this small restaurant up a flight of stairs has toilets for seats, toilet paper for napkins, clear glass tables with a bowl full of turds under, and food served in toilet containers. Many yellow duckies.
Taipei Performing Arts Center. In the NM Architectural Delights series, this 12-story glass building has a large globe on two tripods attached to the front (the Globe Theatre). Inside, none of the theatres could be visited.
Dalongdong Bao’an Temple. Another OTT Tao temple but with much more gilt than I have seen in any other – wild roof decoration, two halls on the bottom, and then take the elevator 4 floors to the big temple with 6 altars. The third floor has Buddhas and the second has an art gallery, reading room, photos, and a small museum.
Zhonghshan. Busy Zhongshan District is home to the landmark Grand Hotel and Taipei Fine Arts Museum, with its modern Taiwanese works. Hsing Tian Kong, a temple honoring Guan Yu, the God of War, has a roof adorned with dragons. There are hipster bars and glitzy karaoke spots around Zhongshan Station, plus Japanese-style pubs, or izakayas, on Linsen North Road. Fine Japanese eateries join chic designer shops on Zhongshan North Road
Taipei Fine Arts Museum. OMG, what a bunch of lousy art. A retrospective a Japanese artist (Ka Tokury had over a hundred pieces, none any good). Free
Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Aborigines. The best part was a great video that really addressed present-day life – it appears Taiwan is little different from most aboriginal societies including Canada’s Indians – pushed off their land, little meaning, and alcoholism. 150TD, 75 if >65
Baishihu Suspension Bridge. High in the hills north of Taipei, this bridge is 116 m long, is suspended by a steel pipe, and stays with a wood deck. Goes over a shallow valley to some hiking trails.
Bishan Temple. Just above the bridge up some stairs, this is like most OTT Tao temples but this one may be the best – it has incredible views down to Taipei.
Suho Memorial Paper Museum. Closed Sunday, Monday
Miniatures Museum of Taiwan. Many highly decorated sets and houses with funny creature faces all dressed up. Unlike most miniatures, this one doesn’t have famous places. 250TD, 75 if >65.
I then cleaned the car, filled it with gas, and left it in the parking lot of Taipei Station near my hostel. I got an email the next day saying that there was an odor of smoke and wanted to bill me 3000TD for cleaning. I wrote back that that is impossible because I don’t smoke (the car was spotless and I had removed all evidence of ash). He let me go and I gave another credit card to pay for a parking fee and the tolls. I am waiting for the speeding tickets.
ON Meander 1948 hostel for the second time.
Day 9 Mon Aug 28
I had all day to wait for my flight and a welcome day off after 8 big days of seeing all of Taiwan. I took a taxi to the PNG Consulate (to try to help with my evisa) which wasn’t at the address listed.
I still had money on my Taipei metro card to get to the airport.
At Air Asia check-in, my carry on luggage was overweight (my big pack is 11 kg and only 7 is allowed, and my small pack was not included) but she didn’t charge and admonished me not to buy anything in duty free.
The only thing better about Taiwan vs China is they don’t confiscate your lighter at security.
With the Taiwan money I had left, I bought a carton of cigarettes (now there is a good reason to smoke – I always use leftover money to buy cigs).
I still had 110TD (about US$3), walked down 15 gates, and finally found a Starbucks. No credit card machines were working in this airport, so used a decrepit US2$ bill to pay for it. Things were going perfectly.
Flight. Air Asia Taipei to Banda Aceh, Indonesia. TPE-KUL @19:55-12:40+1 D7373;
KUL-BJJ @07:30-08:00 1’30″AK421
ISLANDS CLOSE TO CHINA
KINMEN
Military, War and Police Museums: Kinmen: August 823 Artillery Battle Museum
The Dark Side
Kinmen War Memorials and Sites
Kinmen: Guningtou War Museum
M@P
Japan/Taiwan/China (disputed) – Senkaku islands (Diaoyu/Tiaoyutai)
Wuqiu islands
MATSU archipelago. M@P. The Matsu Islands, officially Lienchiang County, are an archipelago of 36 islands and islets in the East China Sea governed by the Republic of China, situated alongside the southeastern coast of mainland China
History, Culture, National and City Museums: Lienchiang County: Matsu Folk Culture Museum
