SAMOA – GENERAL

Understand
The main islands are the result of countless volcanic eruptions, leaving easily visible volcanic cones all over both islands. None of the volcanoes are currently active, but small earthquakes often rock the island. In September 2009 the south coast of Upolu Island was hit by a devastating tsunami, with much loss of life.
The last volcanic eruption was in 1911, on Savaii. The eerie, lifeless lava fields that remain from this event can be visited easily, since the only sealed road on Savai’i goes right through the middle.

History. Samoans originally arrived from Southeast Asia around 1500-1000 BC. The oldest known site of human occupation dates back to that time and is at Mulifanua on Upolu island.
In 1830 missionaries from the London Missionary Society, notably John Williams, arrived and Samoa rapidly embraced Christianity. More recently, Mormons (Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints) have constructed several sizeable churches.
By the end of the 19th Century Samoans had developed a reputation for being warlike, as fights had taken place between them and the British, Germans and Americans, who wanted to use Samoa as a refueling station for coal-fired shipping and whaling and for commodities. On the island of ‘Upolu German firms monopolized copra and cocoa bean production, while the United States formed alliances with local chieftains, mainly on the islands to the east, which were later annexed to the USA as American Samoa and have not been granted Independence. Britain also sent troops to protect business interests. Germany, America and Britain supplied arms and training to warring Samoans, stoking tribal battles. All three sent warships into Apia harbour when, fortunately for Samoa, a large storm in 1889 damaged or destroyed the warships, ending the conflict.
An important arrival was Robert Louis Stevenson, the Scottish author, who travelled to the South Pacific for his health and settled in Samoa in the early 1890s. His house at Vailima in Upolu and his grave on the hill above it can be visited. Stevenson was known as “Tusitala” (teller of tales) and this name lives on in one of Apia’s hotels.
In the early 1900s an Independence movement began on the island of Savai’i. Known as the Mau a Pule this had widespread support throughout the country by the late 1920s. Supporters wore a Mau uniform of a navy blue lavalava with a white stripe, which was later banned by the colonial administration. On 28 December 1929 the New Zealand military fired on a peaceful Mau procession, killing 11 Samoans. New Zealand had occupied the German protectorate of Western Samoa at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. It continued to administer the islands until 1962, when they became the first Polynesian nation in the 20th century to re-establish independence. The country dropped the “Western” (which distinguished it from American Samoa) from its name in 1997.
To promote closer ties with Australia & New Zealand—Samoa’s largest trading partners—driving switched from the right to the left side of the road in September 2009. It was the first country to switch sides in many years, although its small size made things less chaotic. Then, in December 2011, Samoa switched sides of the International Date Line—moving from the east side (UTC -11) to the west side (UTC +13). The move was to help businesses with ties to New Zealand which only shared 4 working days a week (Monday in NZ was Sunday in Samoa & Friday in Samoa was Saturday in NZ).

Government. Samoa is a Republic governed by an elected council, or fono. Local government is by village. Each extended family has a chief, or Matai, and decisions are taken by the village fono, consisting of all of the matai.

Economy.
The economy of Samoa is dependent on family remittances from overseas, development aid, and exports, in that order. Agriculture employs two-thirds of the labour force, and furnishes 90% of exports, featuring nonu fruit, coconut cream, coconut oil, and copra. The manufacturing sector mainly processes agricultural products. Attempts to develop agriculture have been affected by cyclones and by a major blight disease to the country’s staple root crop, taro, which is only now being overcome.
The decline of fish stocks in the area is a continuing problem, due to both local overfishing and severe overfishing by Japanese factory trawlers. Tourism is an expanding sector, accounting for 16% of GDP; about 85,000 tourists visited the islands in 2000. The 19th and 20th season of Survivor was filmed on the island of Upolu in mid 2009. The 23rd and 24th season of survivor were also filmed on the island of Upolu mid 2011.
The Samoan Government has called for deregulation of the financial sector, encouragement of investment, and continued fiscal discipline. Observers point to the flexibility of the labor market as a basic strength for future economic advances. Foreign reserves are in a relatively healthy state, foreign debt is stable, and inflation is low.

SEE
Villages. 
Although Western-style buildings are gaining in popularity, traditional Samoan fales are still found everywhere. These are of an oval or circular shape with wooden posts holding up a domed roof. There are no walls, although blinds can be lowered to give privacy. The village is very important to Samoan culture and there are strict rules governing the way village societies function.
Kilikiti. 
This is the local version of cricket and is very popular in Samoan villages among both men and women. The principle of the game is the same as cricket but the rules vary considerably and there seems to be considerable flexibility in their interpretation. The most obvious differences are the bat and the fact that balls are bowled from each end alternately rather than employing the six-ball overs of cricket. Kilikiti is played on concrete pitches on village greens, and is accompanied by lots of noise and considerable enthusiasm.

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SAVAI’I
The largest island; approximately 24% of the population and less developed than Upolu. Most services are available in Salelologa and resorts 

Safotu: Safotu Catholic Church
Salailua: Salailua Church
A’Opo Conservation Area.
A 2-3 day hike to the summit of Mt Silisili (1858m), the highest point in Samoa, traverses some wonderful rainforested sections of the A’opo Conservation Area and Savai’i’s mountainous backbone. To organise a guide, speak to the pulenu’u (a combination of mayor and police chief) of A’opo; ask in the town’s small shop for directions.
Central Savai’i Rainforest. With an area of 727 square kilometres, it is the largest continuous patch of rainforest in Polynesia. The area contains more than 100 volcanic craters including recent lava flows. The rainforest spans the inland region of the island and contains most of Samoa’s endemic native species, many of which are threatened or near extinction. 30% of Samoa’s biodiversity is endemic, found only in Samoa, with new species still being discovered. The country has more native species of ferns and butterflies than New Zealand, a country 85 times larger.
Plant communities include lowland rain forest, which is the most extensive, with montane forests and cloud forests at higher elevations. There are smaller areas of montane scrub, Pandanus scrub, littoral (seashore) scrub, montane swamp forest, and summit scrub.
Tafua Rainforest Reserve. Established in 1990 as a covenant between the village chiefs (matai) and funds from Seacology, model Christie Brinkley and the Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency to protect native rainforests. The preserve includes walking tracks in the rainforest and a path to the Tafua volcanic crater where there are rare Samoa flying-fox bats. The forest is also one of the few habitats for the endemic and endangered tooth-billed pigeon (Didunculus strigirostris), called Manumea, the national bird of Samoa. Seacology also funded two fishing boats for the village to help generate local income and livelihoods. The coastal village is 6 km from the main road at a turnoff five minutes drive south of Salelologa township and ferry terminal.

Fagamalo Beach
Blowholes. Savaii has some spectacular blowholes caused by the sea forcing water up through tubes in volcanic rocks.

DO
A Samoan Tattoo. This traditional art form is very much a part of the Samoan culture. There are different designs for women and men; in the case of men the tattoo can cover half the body. Beware that the tattooing process can be very painful, but if you think you can take the pain ask at your hotel or guest house for advice on local tattoo artists.
Get married. Samoa is a popular place to get married and spend your honeymoon. Several hotels and resorts offer special packages on their web sites and they will make all the arrangements.
Golf. Golf is very popular in Samoa. There is even a suggestion that the recent introduction of Daylight Saving Time was primarily done so that executives could get in a round of golf after work before it got dark! All courses are on Upolu. Two are close to Apia, one near the airport and a nine-hole course is found on the south coast.
Diving. Scuba diving is a relatively new activity in Samoa. Both Upolu and Savai’i have great dive spots, with around 900 fish species and 200 types of coral. There are dive companies operating on both islands.

GET IN
Visa
. Nationals of any country within the Schengen Area may enter Samoa visa-free for 90 days in a 180 day period.
All other foreign nationals (except for American nationals ordinarily resident in American Samoa) can obtain a free visitor’s permit valid for 60 days upon arrival in Samoa, so long as they fulfil all of the following conditions:
They have a return or onward ticket.
They have a valid visa or permit for entry into the country they will travel to after Samoa.
They state accommodation arrangements such as hotel or resort or family and friends (declare name of family, village name and telephone number)
They have documented evidence of sufficient funds for self-support (typically a copy of a bank statement)
They have no record or deportation from other countries
They have no health problems that would pose a risk to Samoa
They have no history of criminal charges resulting in a minimum of one year of sentencing
They are not on any alert or warning lists
All travellers are required to complete a passenger arrival declaration card and submit it on arrival. When leaving Samoa, a departure declaration must also be completed and submitted.
By plane. The main international airport, Faleolo (APW), is approximately a 45-minute drive from Apia with local buses during daytime. If you want to use the local bus, head straight to the main road and go where the locals wait. Ignore taxi-drivers who will want to make you believe there are no local buses.
Talofa Airways provides scheduled flights from American Samoa.
Air New Zealand provides six flights per week from Auckland.
Virgin Australia flies from Sydney and Brisbane.
Fiji Airways has three flights a week from Nadi in Fiji.
If flights permit, try to arrive in daylight. From above, the lagoon is a stunning aquamarine colour. The ride between the airport and Apia is also very attractive.
By boat. A twice-monthly service by the MV Tokelau connects Apia Harbour with Tokelau.
Depending on the season, people sail their yachts to Samoa and dock at Apia. There are good facilities close to the main port, with 60 berths offering electricity, fresh water and 24-hour security.

GET AROUND
Traffic in Samoa drives on the left. Since then there has been an avalanche of cheap, reconditioned cars from Japan and traffic jams are now common in Apia. Even on the roads outside the capital traffic tends to move slowly, due to the cautious and inexperienced drivers and to the numerous speed bumps.
Taxis. Generally your best bet. They are cheap and plentiful. You can get one for a whole day for about the same price as a rental car.
Car Rental. As international driving licences are not accepted you need to obtain a temporary local licence. These are easy to get from the police station in Apia or direct from a number of car rental firms.
Bus. Buses are cheap and a ride on one will be a memorable experience. Buses on Upolu fan out from two locations in Apia, close to the main market and behind the flea market. On Savaii, all routes begin near the ferry wharf at Salelologa. Buses leave when full, not to any schedule.
Cycling. Possible and quite enjoyable but ‘Upolu has a few fairly steep and hilly sections and the cross island roads are about 7kms steep uphill to their crests. Savai’i has only 2 or 3 small steep sections (around the western end).

Talk. The country’s native language is Samoan (a Polynesian language). English is widely understood and spoken in the capital, Apia, as well as in many tourist resorts.
Money. The Currency is the Tala. It is variously written as WST, WS$ or SAT.
Samoa is relatively inexpensive for western visitors. Haggling is not customary and is in fact considered to be rude. Tipping is not practiced or expected.

EAT . Eating is an extremely important part of Samoan life, as the size of many Samoans may suggest. They often take food with them when they travel. Samoan food is not highly spiced or seasoned. It uses ingredients that are relatively unfamiliar to most Westerners, such as breadfuit, taro (or talo), taro leaves, cooked green bananas and raw fish.
Umu. The umu is the traditional method used for cooking. A fire is built and stones placed on it. When the fire is down to the embers the ingredients, such as green bananas, breadfruit, taro, fish, palusami and pork are placed on the stones. It is then covered with banana leaves and left to cook.
Oka is the way Samoans prepare raw fish. It consists of small bits of fish that are marinated in a mixture of lemon juice, coconut cream, salt and finely chopped onions.
Palusami is made from taro leaves and coconut cream. The coconut cream, onions and some taro are wrapped in whole taro leaves and cooked in an umu. Well cooked, this can be unforgettable and you should not leave Samoa without trying it.
Corned beef. Samoa rapidly adopted this import and it is widely used as an accompaniment to Umus and other dishes.
Drink. No significant gathering in Samoa, whether official or for pleasure, is complete without the ‘Ava (or kava) ceremony at the beginning. The roots of the plant are used to produce a mildly narcotic drink that is passed around meetings following strict rules.

SLEEP. Beach fales are an enjoyable and inexpensive way to stay in Samoa. A list can be obtained from the Samoa Tourism Authority (info@samoa.travel), but the best way to know where to stay is to ask other travelers.

STAY SAFE
Samoa is a generally safe destination. Crime rates are low and people are very helpful and friendly. Free roaming dogs can be a safety problem in the capital Apia.
Health. Chikungunya is a virus transmitted by mosquitoes. There is no vaccine and no cure. Take precautions to prevent mosquito bites (nets, repellent, long sleeves and pants, rooms with A/C.). Samoa is a malaria free zone.

RESPECT
Samoa is very religious, with most Christian. On Sunday, most shops and businesses are closed. You should not walk through villages on Sundays. Many villages have a prayer curfew for half an hour at sundown.
Samoan culture is governed by strict protocols and etiquette. Although allowances are made for foreigners, it is wise to avoid revealing clothing and to comply with village rules which are enforced by the village matai (chiefs). A lavalava (sarong) is nearly always acceptable attire.

GET OUT. For those with plenty of time and a real sense of adventure, consider taking the fortnightly boat to Tokelau.
Apart from flights to New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii, there are three flights a week to Nadi in Fiji and frequent flights and boats to Pago Pago in neighbouring American Samoa.
A WST 65 departure tax and is included in the cost of airline tickets.

 Samoa – Upolu (Apia)
M@P:
Manono, Apolima and Nuʻulopa islands
Tentative WHS
Fagaloa Bay – Uafato Tiavea Conservation Zone (21/12/2006)
Manono, Apolima and Nuulopa Cultural Landscape (21/12/2006)
Islands
Manono
Upolu
Borders: Samoa (sea border/port)
XL: Aleipata islands

Cities of Asia and Oceania
APIA World Capitals
Airports
Apia (APW)
Apia Fagalii (FGI)
Museums: Museum of Samoa
House Museums/Plantations: Robert Louis Stevenson Museum
Religious Temples
Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral
Shrine of Three Hearts
Hospitality Legends:
Aggie Grey’s

Religious Temples
Faleula: Methodist Church
Lalomanu: Lalomanu Church
Siusega: Our Lady of the Rosary
Tiapapata: Baha’i House of Worship
World of Nature
Fagaloa Bay – Uafato Tiavea Conservation Zone
Lake Lanoto’o NP
Pupu Pu’e NP
Lakes: Lanoto’o Lake
Festivals: Teuila Festival
Beaches: Lalomanu Beach
Waterfalls: Papapapaitai Falls
Caves
Piula Cave Pool
To Sua Ocean Trench

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NOMAD MANIA Samoa – Savai’i (Salelolonga)
Islands. Savai’i
Religious Temples
Safotu: Safotu Catholic Church
Salailua: Salailua Church
World of Nature
A’Opo Conservation Area
Central Savai’i Rainforest
Tafua Rainforest Reserve
Beaches: Fagamalo Beach

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NOMAD MANIA United States – American Samoa (Pago Pago)

M@P
Manuʻa Islands (Taʻū, Ofu and Olosega)
Swains Island
Tentative WHS: Marine Protected Areas of American Samoa
Islands: Tutuila (American Samoa)
Borders: American Samoa (sea border/port)
XL
Manua islands
Ofu-Olosega
Swains Island
Ta‘ū Island
Airports: Pago Pago (PPG)
Museums: Pago Pago: Jean P. Haydon Museum
Religious Temples
Pago Pago: Congregational Christian Church
Tafuna: Kanana Fou Church
World of Nature: National Park of American Samoa
Beaches: Ofu Beach

 

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am "home", are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking. I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.
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