In the mid-90s, I went to Patagonia and hiked in Torres del Paine National Park, Tierra del Fuego and Fitzroy. In the winter of 2011/12, I spent several months travelling in South America only going as far south as the Lake District of Chile. I also went to Easter Island.
Whereas December to March is the best time to be in Patagonia (probably the only time to go), this is the rainy season in the north of South America and not the prime time to trek and hike. June to September have less rain but are also much busier. It rains virtually every day usually in the afternoon. They do not have 4 seasons like us and do not use the words winter and summer but refer to the seasons as the rain and dry seasons. Many high-altitude hikes are not even available at this time of the year. I did not go over 4760 meters and only hiked.
COLOMBIA
Salento and the Valle de Cocora. 6 hours southwest of Medellin is the tranquil town of Salento (pop. 7,000) set in gently rolling hills carpeted in thick forest. The main attraction is the Valle de Cocora, a broad, green valley framed by rugged peaks. The hills are covered with wax palms, and strange 60 metre palm trees towering above the cloud forest. Take one of the many available jeeps from the side of the square to the Valle. The road forks and I took the left fork walking along the road. There are no signs and you eventually take a track that appears to go through private land. This dirt road turns right climbing up the side of a ridge (there was a fresh landslide across the road when I took it). Still climbing, it eventually goes through a gate and reaches a great lookout with benches. Continue on the trail to the park buildings and signs that show the way down. There are several switchbacks down to a big creek with many waterfalls and rapids which you cross a few times on bridges. Eventually, you hit an eroded trail (really used mostly by cattle) that is incredibly muddy. The mud can be avoided as the trail is braided. The trail eventually circles back down the valley past a fish hatchery to rejoin the road at the fork. The hostel I stayed in provided gum boots for all the mud.
PERU
GOCTA FALLS At 771 m is the 16th highest waterfall in the world. It is accessed by a tour out of Chachapoyas in northern Peru. It has two drops, the first of 237 m and a second of 520 m. After a great 5 km hike to the bottom of the falls, one gets completely soaked in the huge spray as there is a lot of water in the falls. The surrounding scenery was magnificent with limestone cliffs on the steep mountain sides.
SANTA CRUZ TREK – NP Huascaran. This was a guided trek with a tour company called Galixia out of Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca north of Lima. The tour came with a guide (really only a cook), and an incredible burro wrangler. With 4 burros, he packed up took everything down and routinely beat us to the destination. We only had to carry rain gear and lunch. The tent and pad plus all food were provided.
Day 1. Incredible drive from Huaraz past huge granite walls with many high waterfalls, 2 turquoise alpine lakes at 3800 m, past Huascaran (highest peak in Peru at 6750 m), a high pass into Atlantic watershed at 4500 m, and then down to the town of Viliquerca (3700 m). I only had to carry rain gear and lunch. A tent and pad plus all food were provided. We walked downhill past fields of potato, apple, and alfalfa, then up through a small no-road access community to camp at 3800 m. Many cows and sheep are on the long trails. Unusually for this time of year, there was no rain.
Day 2 15 km uphill to Punta Union, the continental divide pass at 4750m, then past an alpine lake and spectacular mountains that all looked like the Matterhorn with pure white glaciers and fresh snow. We camped alongside a rushing river at 4200m.
Day 3. 12 km. We went to a mirador with views of Nev. Alpanayo and Nev. Quitaraju, both over 6000m, then down to a broad, wet, flat valley with cows and horses grazing. To the left was the Paramount Pictures mountain. We walked past 2 big lakes, then down to a campsite at 3800 m. The valley had sheer granite walls, many waterfalls and fewer views of the high peaks. Many cows and sheep graze around the trail.
It rained heavily after reaching camp. A full moon at night illuminated all the great peaks.
Day 4 A short 2-hour hike down a narrow valley with a great rushing creek to Cashapampa. We had to wait 3 hours for a second group doing the trek in 3 days, but after a big stink from us, we finally got them to drive to Caraz where we caught a taxi for 1 hour to Huaraz.
Many people do the hike the opposite way. It can be done unguided but it was so cheap that working out the logistics of vehicles, camping gear and food would not be worth the savings.
Laguna 69 Also in the Cordillera Blanca, this good day hike has great mountain and waterfall views at a marvellous azure blue lake. Starting at 3900 m, the lake is at 4600 m, all elevations that will induce at least a headache if coming from low elevations. Several companies in Huaraz offer tours.
INCA TRAIL to Machu Picchu January 17-21, 2012
The Inca built a road network that spanned nearly 19,000 miles, between modern-day Colombia, to the north, and Chile and Argentina, to the south. They called it Qhapaq Ñan. The Qhapaq Ñan traverses one of the world’s most extreme terrains, including the driest non-polar desert on earth (the Atacama), steamy rainforests, desiccated salt flats and some of the highest Andean peaks beyond the Himalayas.
The only Inca trail most people have ever heard of is the 26-mile path from Piscacucho (near Cusco, Peru) to the jungle-clad ruins of Machu Picchu. One of the planet’s most iconic treks, it lures some 25,000 hikers each year. Meanwhile, the trails of the greater Qhapaq Ñan network have gone largely unnoticed, unused, and unprotected.
This extraordinary feat of preindustrial engineering allowed the Inca to communicate, exchange goods, and consolidate power during the height of the empire in the late 15th century. It was a line chart for administering an empire.
More than a simple path, the Incas crafted it—in many cases, atop existing paths—with a series of stone structures roughly nine miles apart. Called tambos, they were motels, military checkpoints, and supply hubs rolled into one. It rarely heads straight up or down, navigating geographic obstacles (mountains, river valleys) in such a mannered way that groups of soldiers or caravans of llamas could easily tackle it, trudging from tambo to tambo. The Incas perfected everything, from the lengths to the angles, altitudes, steps, and gradients. You couldn’t ask for a better route from point A to point B. The Inca built the trails in very high places because the higher you go in the Andes, the fewer ravines you have to cross and the fewer hassles encountered. There are also more springs, lakes, and water. It was built on the backs of Inca men performing mit’a or mandatory public service. They chewed coca leaves to ward off altitude sickness. It’s hard to understand how these monumental stone paths have been all but forgotten by time.
The sprawling network’s main Peruvian corridor is the 1,800-mile Great Inca Trail. It runs from Cuenca, Ecuador, in the north, to Cusco, Peru, in the south. The higher-altitude sections through the center of Peru—between 11,000 and 15,000 feet, behind the perennially snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca mountains are the best preserved due to their relative isolation and small population centers. Yet, even here, villagers have removed stones from paths to create corrals for animals or bases for mud-brick homes. Mining companies have also paved over sections of the Qhapaq Ñan to build access roads.
Today, the Great Inca Trail could become an epic tourist route akin to the Pacific Crest Trail. In Peru, the Qhapaq Ñan cuts a swath through the Andes between the Inca archaeological sites of Huánuco Pampa, an Inca city notable for its stone storehouses and a ceremonial ushnu or pyramid and Huarautambo. Work is concentrating on the roughly 100-mile stretch in the middle, offering five-day 50-mile treks north and south of Huánuco Pampa, Temperatures in the winter high season (May to September) can swing from the 60s with blazing sun to the low teens with frost.
One of the seven modern wonders of the world, Machu Picchu is probably the most important archaeological site in the western hemisphere and a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1983. It is on everyone’s bucket list and can be visited in many ways including by bus or train (the fastest, easiest and cheapest), or by several trekking routes.
The Inca Trail is a 47 km walk, 80% using the original stone pavers of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. At the time it was the only route to Machu Picchu. This is the hardest and most expensive way ($645) and is as much part of the experience as the actual ruins. 500 permits are given per day for the Inca Trail and need to be booked weeks in advance especially in the busy dry season from May to September, Only 200 permits are for tourists, and the other 300 are for the porters and guides. As it was the rainy season, it rained most days. I used an umbrella, the best way to hike in the rain as it allows great ventilation.
SAS is the biggest company offering the Inca Trail. They provided 2 guides and 21 porters including the cook. The porters carried 27 kg each and had SAS uniforms. There were 15 in our group – I was 62 and the next oldest was 36. By day 2 everyone but me and a fellow from Wales employed porters to carry personal stuff. We carried our sleeping bag, pad and all personal gear while the porters carried the tents, and all cooking and dining gear (including a big eating tent, table and chairs). We were up at 5 every day to eat and start walking by 6:30. The sumptuous meals were almost of gourmet quality. and most of us gained weight despite all the exercise.
The route goes through incredibly steep terrain and narrow valleys.
Day 1. Up at 5 am to bus 3 hours to km 82 on the rail line (elevation 2380m), the trail followed the Urubamba River briefly before starting to climb. Passing 3 Inca ruins, we camped at 3300m in a steep-walled valley.
Day 2 started with a stiff climb over Dead Woman`s Pass, at 4200m, the highest part of the trail, then a descent to 3600m, another ascent to 4000m and then a descent to 3600m again to camp.
Day 3 was another ascent to 4000m and then a steep knee-destroying descent to 3000m to Wuiñay Wuayna with its tremendous ruin often dubbed ¨little Machu Piccu¨. There were 50 terraces each supported by 5-8 foot stone walls, 14 fountains, many houses, and intricate stonework on the upper ruins.
Day 4 We were up at 3:45 to eat and hurry up and wait for the control point that opened at 5:30. It was then a 60-minute almost level walk through the high jungle with bamboo groves, wood bridges, cliff faces, and rock slides with beautiful views to Inti Punku, the Sun Gate. The ruins of Machu Picchu were not visible in the clouds but we descended slowly down the steps and path until finally, MP appeared through the clouds – the iconic view that is the visual highlight of the trip.
After walking down, we had our guided tour and wandered around the huge site with its many houses, temples, immaculate stonework, and terraces. Our head guide gave us a grandiose tour visiting the main agricultural areas (about 50 terraces from top to bottom), the Temple of the Condor, the Temple of the Sun with its two windows used to predict the summer and winter solstices, the Inca`s house, the main temple with the Three Windows and the Astronomical Observatory. We cruised through many buildings, then caught a bus down to Aqua Calientes to the hotel, a great buffet lunch and a shower.
Day 5 I bussed back up to the ruins at 6:30 to spend some peaceful time and then climb Waynu Picchu, the mountain behind MP. It was straight up, took 35 minutes and I passed 46 youngsters before the top. MP was in cloud that repetitively opened and closed over the hour I was there. The view was stunning. On the way down, I took the trail down the backside to visit the Grande Caverns with ruins. It was then a long hike back up to regain the trail.
I then revisited the entire site and eavesdropped on guided tours to gain more insights, especially how the stone was intricately carved and polished to form the seamless joints (nobody can answer this question). I then climbed up to the Inca Bridge, the only other original access to MP other than the Inca Trail. It is an amazing bridge with wood across a big gap in the stone causeway and a vague trail that crosses a vertical cliff face all grown in with trees. The trail is not usable now.
I then returned to Aqua Calientes to catch the train at 16:43 back to Ollantaytambo along the incredible Class 5 Urubamba River. Then I had a 1-hour bus ride back to Cusco for a long, exhausting but spectacular day.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL RUINS AROURN CUZCO
Take a bus to Pisac, get off at Tambomachay and walk back the 8 km along the road to visit 3 more ruins. The buses leave from Av. Tullumayo, south of Av Garcilaso in Cusco. Tambomachay is a very nice ceremonial bath still channelling clear spring water. Puapukara, the next ruin a few hundred metres down the road commands a great view and was probably a hunting fort or guard station and stopping point for travellers. Continue down the road through a small village with bas-relief designs on the front of their houses and cut across a long corner in the road passing evidence of many other Inca buildings in the field. The third ruin, Qéngo, consists of a large limestone rock riddled with niches, steps, and carvings.
Just down the road is the best of the four ruins, Saqsaywamin, the site of the greatest and one of the last battles between the Spanish and Inca in 1536. Even though only 20% of the original ruin remains (the rest was dismantled and used to build houses in Cusco), what is left is incredible with a long zigzag wall composed of huge polygonal stone blocks, some up to 120 tons fit together in the perfect Inca style. The wall is supposed to represent the teeth of a puma with Saqsaywamin as the head and Cusco as the body. Take the Inca road (steep stone staircase) down which leads into town (not the car road on the other side of the large Christ statue).
COLCA CANYON. One of the main reasons to come to Arequipa is to go to Colca Canyon, supposedly the world`s deepest canyon at 3191 m (measured from the top of the mountains but not from the canyon rim). I took a guided tour with Colca Trek – over 100 tour companies offer a variety of trips from bus tours with stops only at the viewpoints to walks along the canyon sleeping overnight in local towns to our trip which went down and then up the same trail. Mules carried our gear. On the 6-hour bus ride there, we stopped at some spectacular eroded volcanic columns above a river, the vicuña protected area (we saw several vicuñas which are wild and many domesticated llamas and alpacas), the town of Chivay for a buffet lunch, and hiked between 2 overlooks (Cruz del Condor) seeing several condors. The upper wide valley has spectacular pre-Inca terracing and the fields are a patchwork of different crops all surrounded by dry rock walls.
We slept overnight in a nice hotel at Cabanaconde (pop 7300), descended 1100m to an oasis at the bottom of the canyon and stayed in tents that night. The river was an incredible torrent and the canyon spectacular – green up to the top with eroded yellow scars reminiscent of the canyon of the Yellowstone. The next AM we were up early to climb back up to the top and drive back to Arequipa stopping at several viewpoints and a hot spring on the way. This canyon is hard to compare to the Grand Canyon – its height is measured from the top of the mountains, is certainly as steep but without the cliffs of the GC, and the GC is much deeper from the rim.
In retrospect, I would not do the trip with this company as it was expensive and we saw less of the canyon. Many companies offer trips that descend into the canyon farther upstream, stay overnight in a village, walk down the canyon to the oasis and then climb out of the canyon to the rim and the town.
CHILI
National Parque Conguillo. Melipuerco is the town on the south edge of NP Conguillio, renowned for its large stands of monkey puzzle trees or araucaria. Having seen this very unusual tree before in Ronnings Garden on N Vancouver Island (he was a Norwegian who homesteaded there in 1910 and planted a fabulous garden with plants from all over the world), I was keen to see it in its natural habitat and great numbers. Its name comes from the fact that it is covered with very spiny leaves preventing anything from climbing it.
I did not have a car so as the distance was quite far it was necessary to go with a tour company for $80. I hired a driver and guide (quite unnecessary as the trailheads are well-marked and the trails easy). The big volcanoes here are Sierra Nevada and Lliama (3125m) and we drove for many kilometres past lava flows from its large eruptions in the 1850s, 1927 and 1957 (it last erupted in 2009).
The first trek was from near Lake Captren, 4 km to the Mother, the 1800-year-old, 50 m tall, and 3 m diameter Araucaria Madre tree, the largest in the park. We then hiked from the trailhead on the south end of Lake Conguillio, 10 km up the Sierra Nevada Trail to 2 lookouts with many monkey puzzle trees and great views of Conguillio Lake. It is possible to climb all the local volcanoes.
Volcan Villarica. Pucon (pop 17,000), is touted as the adventure capital of Chile and sits on the shore of the large Lake Villarrica. It is European looking with a full range of hotels (many high-end), restaurants and tour companies. The highlight is Volcan Villarrica (2847 m), visible from town with its constantly smoking summit and oscillating red glow at night. It last erupted in 1986 and its caldera is open making it active but with a low likelihood of erupting.
The only reasonable way to climb it (along with hundreds of others – 16,000 climb it each year) is guided by a tour company that outfits you with rigid boots, crampons, a full heavy nylon suit, an ice axe, and a helmet. Taking a ski lift part of the way up, the climb was relatively easy on snow and ice on a glacier and then volcanic rock to the top. The crater was narrow, deep and molten magna spectacularly shot up every few minutes. Pucon and everything below the ski lift was obscured by a dense carpet of clouds. All the surrounding volcanoes stick up through it. The company provides a nylon bib to slide down the snow. The remaining few kilometres down was on knee-saving scree.
National Parque Huerquehue. 35 km NW of Pucon, the 7 km Los Lagos trail switchbacks through a dense mature lenga forest to monkey puzzle trees surrounding a cluster of pristine lakes. The monkey puzzle trees are very unusual looking – straight, limbless trunks with a small umbrella-shaped crown of spiny branches at the top sticking above all the other trees. It is possible to backpack across the park from the lakes to Termas de San Sebastian, hot springs on the other side of the park.
EASTER ISLAND
It was a 5 1/2 hour flight to Easter Island or Rapa Nui (it is called the Navel of the World by its inhabitants and Isla de Pascua by Chileans). Discovered by the Dutch in 1722 on Easter Sunday and visited by Cook in 1774, it has the most astonishing story of ecological collapse on earth.
Triangular shaped with volcanoes on the 3 points (3 million, 2 million and 200,000 years old), its underwater area is 50x the 166 square km above water. There are at least 20 more small cones, the largest of which was the site of the quarry. It is the area of land furthest from any other land on earth – 2100 km from Pitcairn Island, 3700 km from Chile and 4000 from Tahiti. There are flights only available with LAN from Tahiti, Santiago and Lima.
Settled in 400 AD by Polynesians, it developed an incredible culture with 25,000 inhabitants best known for erecting huge volcanic rock statues (moai erected on stone platforms called ahu) revering their rulers. Once they had cut down every tree on the island to roll the moai from the quarry to all over the island, their culture collapsed and the 5 tribes went to war finally reducing the population to less than 2500. They started erecting moai in the 10th century and almost all were toppled in the civil war by the 17th.
Most people live in Hanga Roa on the SW shore with 4400 people. At 27 degrees south, the climate is subtropical with few brief rains. There are at least 890 moai, over ⅔ still in the quarry. With an average weight of 9.5 tons, the largest still in the quarry is over 100 tons. Except for size, they are virtually identical and made from the same type of volcanic rock with a yellowish tint and a red volcanic rock top knot.
Although not known for its hiking, Easter Island has some of the best hiking anywhere.
Terevaca. It is a long walk to climb the high point on the island, Terevaca, at 507m, the youngest north volcano. From town follow the shore north past several moai, other statues, an old village site, and the museum and hit the road that follows the ocean heading north. On the way, 2 caves are old lava tubes. At an ahu with several fallen moai and very nice stonework, the road curves east passing another large lava tube with a collapsed roof containing many banana trees to Ahu Aktivi with 7 standing moai, the only ones to face the west shore. These were reerected by Thor Heyerdahl in 1960. The trail to the top starts near these moai and follows an old wide track with a gradual ascent taking about an hour. There is no crater, simply a long ridge in the howling wind. One could go back the same way or you can follow two tire tracks in the long grass heading east. It is a gorgeous walk down through many stands of big eucalyptus trees, a small creek, and many wild horses. The track eventually becomes a road and at divisions take the more prominent track. The road hits the paved highway where it is easy to hitchhike back to town.
Northwest coast. From town start exactly as for the above hike eventually following the road. At the ahu with the fallen moai, leave the road and follow the coast along the cliffs. Occasionally there is a rudimentary hiker-made trail but there is only one way to go. Pass many ahu several with crypts filled with bones and many stone lookout platforms. It took 8 hours of walking along the cliff through long grass and small lava stones eventually encountering a trail that goes through a farm and many cattle. At the end, you reach Anakena, a gorgeous beach on the NE corner of the island for a welcome swim, The beach has white sand surrounded by palm trees and 8 standing moai. It is an easy hitchhike back to town.
Maunga Pu A Kaiki. This is the 400 m tall volcano on the SE corner of the island. A good way to do this hike is to go to Ahu Tongariki, the site with the 15 standing moai for sunrise (almost everyone does this and there is always a big crowd). Walk in front of the moai, hit the road and after it curves north, strike off anywhere walking to the east. Wade through some low bush and climb the steep hillside. It is then a nice gradual walk through the grass with many cattle directly to the top of the volcano. On the top, there is a small crater filled with eucalyptus trees. Walk around the crater for great views of the SE corner of the island. Come down to the south-west ending on the very high cliff and walk counterclockwise along the cliff around the entire SE end of the island. Eventually, you will reach the road again. Take the road back to the 15 moai.
As I had hitchhiked out for sunset, I continued along the road until it started to curve south and then followed a minimal trail that led directly to Rana Raruka, the main quarry for the moai. The quarry is one of the two areas on Easter Island that requires an entrance fee and is normally reached by a dirt road that heads north from the main paved road. I entered the quarry from the SE (definitely not the normal entrance) and did all the trails through the quarry including going into the crater with a reedy lake where many of the moai were also quarried. I then paid my entrance fee coming from inside the quarry (the clerk was surprised but did not get upset). I then hitchhiked back to town.
Rano Kao. This is the 410 m volcano on the SW corner of the island, the site of Orongo. Follow the road south out-of-town until you reach the Sendero (trail) to Orongo lined by white-painted rocks that climbs up to the dirt road you cross to reach the crater’s edge. It is a huge perfectly round crater with a flat bottom and interspersed ponds. The south edge has a big gap eroded by the ocean. One could walk completely around the crater but it looks a little dodgy where the crater is eroded (you would also access Orongo the wrong way and could get into trouble and I don’t think anyone does this.
Orongo is the site of a village used only for a few weeks of the year and is the only site on the island with religious significance. About 40 round houses built of slab rock on a tiny point are on the rim along with many bas-relief petroglyphs. The site was used to celebrate the birdman cult which replaced ancestral worship in the 15th century. The competition to be leader involved swimming to Motu Nui and trying to be the first to get a sooty tern egg, swim back and climb back up to Orongo. The last competition happened in 1867.
Just outside the Orongo entrance gate and parking lot, climb over the fence and walk west through the low bush to the cliff’s edge. It is a gorgeous walk down the edge following an intermittent hiker-made trail. I was able to follow along the water back to my hostel. You walk past a cattle trough, cross a small creek and go through 3 fences, two of which are the boundaries of a large hotel (there are no No Trespassing signs). Walk along cliffs with spectacular lava formations, caves and crashing surf. Cross another fence just past a private house to a restaurant and the dock where all the containers are unloaded. On the way follow a stairway down the cliff to a cave with a few birdman paintings.
BRAZIL
ILHA GRANDE is a large island 150 km south of Rio de Janeiro. Pick up the free map at the tourist info centre at the end of the dock. It shows all the trails on the island with distances, times, difficulty and access. All the trails are through Atlantic rainforest.
Parrots Beak. At 982 m this is the second highest point on the island. Walk on a road for 25 minutes from the town to the trailhead marked with a large sign. The trail is easy to follow – at a few creek crossings, it resumes directly across the creek. At the top, the heavily used trail dead ends at the base of the cliff. Instead, follow around to the left under the cliff on a much less obvious trail and access a short scramble that accesses the top. The views from the top are of the entire east end of the island. Try to go early as cloud often comes in the afternoon. It is also cooler. It took me 2 ½ hours up and 1 ½ hours down. The map states that this trail is dangerous and that a guide is necessary but there are no problems.
Aqueduct, old prison and waterfalls. Take the trail at the north end of town to reach a 140 m stone aqueduct built in 1893 to bring water down to Lazareto, the beautiful waterfall called Feiticeira, the Feiticeira Beach, the ruins at Lazareto (originally a cholera quarantine site and then a prison in the 1940s), and then back to Abraao. The howler monkeys were incredibly loud for about 15 minutes around 9:30 in the morning. This was an easy three-hour hike.
Lopes Mendes Beach. This is an easy hike from the south end of town that takes 2 ½ hours to access a beach rated as one of the best in Brazil. It is the most popular hike on the island and passes two other beaches on the way.
Circumnavigation of the entire island. It is possible to do this over 3-4 days camping on beaches. There is a gap in the trail where the map states that one needs authorization to go along 2 beaches through a biological reserve.
HIKES AROUND RIO de JANEIRO
Ipanema, Copacabana Beaches, and Sugar Loaf. This is an urban walk along the two famous beaches of Rio with crashing surf. Walk on the sand near the water or on the sidewalk. It is not possible to walk on the water between the two beaches. There is a fort there that you can enter for a fee. At the end of Copacabana, turn left, go through the tunnel, turn right to go through a shopping mall and then walk the side streets to the cable car that goes up Sugar Loaf. This 396 m quartz and feldspar monolith sits on the water at the west entrance to the harbour of Rio. Transfer cars at an intermediary stop. There is a short walk down that gives great 360-degree views. The trailhead for Sugarloaf is located at the end of the paved Pista Claudio Coutinho, a scenic walkway that originates from Praia Vermelha in Urca and hugs the lower slopes of the mountain. Squeeze past the tiny lighthouse to reach a narrow, slippery path that ascends the 45-degree slope. Past the halfway point there is a 20 m rock climbing segment.
Tijuca National Park. This is the only National Park in Brazil inside a city and is one of the largest urban parks in the world. Most of the trees were cut down for coffee plantations in the 1800s. In 1861 40,000 trees were replanted over 10 years and are now mature second-growth Atlantic rainforest. There are 3 trails easily accessed by car. The area was completely deforested and used primarily to grow coffee
a. Corcovado and Christ the Redeemer statue. Christ the Redeemer is now one of the seven wonders of the modern world. It is an instantly recognizable icon for Rio and Brazil. Made of reinforced concrete, it is 130 feet tall including the 31-foot base, its outstretched arms are 96 feet wide and weighs 635 tons. It is the largest Art Deco statue of Christ and the 5th largest of Christ in the world. It can be seen from all over Rio and is lit up at night.
The good easy-to-follow trail to the top starts at the NE corner of Parque Lage just north of the large lake, Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas in Leblon and Ipanema neighbourhoods. Try to start early when it is cooler as Rio is a hot, humid place and before the cloud rolls in in the afternoon. This also gives you time to do other trails in the park. A guard station at the trailhead has good free English maps of the entire park and the trail. The trail is very steep in a few places and scrambles up a slippery rock equipped with a chain. Follow the rail tracks for good views. Don´t go to the rail station, follow the road just before the station. Pay an 18 Real entrance fee which also covers the short van ride down to the main road, Estrada das Paineiras. Surrounding the statue are many terraces with spectacular views of every neighbourhood in Rio. This is better than Sugar Loaf to get orientated to the city.
It was a long hike down the road through Cosmo Velho and Laranjeiras taking 2+ hours to get to the metro station at Largo Machado in Flamengo.
b. Pico do Tijuca. At 1022m this is an easy trail taking 1 hour to the top. Near the top is a staircase of 117 steps carved out of the rock with deteriorated chains for assistance. The trail starts near the park visitor centre at 685 m accessed from Alto da Boa Vista on Cascatinha Road.
PATAGONIA
TORRES DEL PAINE NATION PARK, Chili
This 181,000-hectare park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, has amazing landscapes. Soaring vertically more than 2000m above the surrounding Patagonia steppe, the granite pillars of the Towers of Paine are one of the most spectacular sites on earth. Weather can be wild and unpredictable, with cold, sudden rainstorms, and big winds. 150,000 visitors visit every year, of which 60% are foreign tourists. Fires set by tourists burned down large portions of the park in 1985, 2005 and 2011.
The park is 112 km north of Puerto Natales (pop 20,000), the only close town with regular buses to the park. Access Puerto Natales on a 4-day boat, the Navimag departing Puerto Montt. The only airport is 200 km south in Puerto Arenas on the Strait of Magellan,
Mountains. The Paine massif rises dramatically 2000m on the east side of the Grey Glacier. Glacial erosion is responsible for sculpturing the massif in the last tens of thousands of years. The Torres del Paine are 3,050 meters above sea level, with their overlying sedimentary rock layer completely eroded, leaving behind the more resistant granite rising as several yellow towers.
The Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine) have central bands of exposed granite and chocolate, dark tops forming a strong contrast.
Three valleys separate the spectacular granite spires and mountains of the massif and trails ascend each for the three day hikes of the W trip: The Ascencio Valley (most easterly valley) is the normal route to reach the Torres del Paine lookout (Mirador Las Torres).
The French Valley (Valle Frances), the central valley, ascends into the center of the massif and has spectacular towers. Lago Grey fills the westernmost valley with Glacier Grey at the north end of the lake.
Glaciers. The Southern Patagonian Ice Field mantles the entire western side of the park. Glaciers that extend down from the main ice field include the Pingo, Tyndall, Geikie, and the largest, Grey. Grey Glacier t is divided into two arms by an island of rock called a Nunatak – 15 km long, the eastern arm is 1.2 km wide and the western arm is 3.6 km wide.
Lakes. The lakes include Grey, Pehoé, Nordenskjold, and Sarmiento and extend across the south side of the massif. The lakes are all vividly coloured from rock flour suspended in the water. The park’s lakes drain into the Serrano River that empties into Última Esperanza Sound.
Flora. Torres del Paine National Park is adorned with beautiful vegetation, including an evergreen which produces vivid red flowers of striking shape and colours, 7 documented species of orchids, 85 non-native plant species with 75 of European origin and 31 considered invasive. The park contains four vegetation zones: Patagonian steppe, Pre-Andean shrubland, Magellanic subpolar forests and Andean Desert above the tree line. All are resistant to harsh winds and weather typical of the Patagonian region.
Fauna. Guanacos, fox and pumasare are common. Birds include the Andean Condor, Buzzard-eagle, Rufous-tailed Hawk, Cinereous Harrier, Chimango Caracara, Magellanic Horned Owl, Austral Pygmy-owl, Chilean Flamingo, Rhea, swans, Magellanic Woodpecker, goose and ibis.
Accommodation. Refugios provide shelter and basic services. Reservations are necessary for the peak hiking season. Dinner, hot showers, optional breakfasts and picnic lunches are provided. Camping is only at specified campsites and wood fires are prohibited throughout the park. Rent a tent and sleeping bag to sleep on the grounds outside the refugio with cold showers, or pitch your tent and cook on a camp stove.
Climate. Visiting the park is recommended between late December and late February, the southern summer. The weather is more hospitable, and daylight hours are long at the extreme southern latitude. Outside of this, the weather becomes too extreme for most, and daylight dwindles.
Hiking. Most everyone comes here to hike. The trails are good and route finding is easy. The entrance fee was 18,000 pesos (US$40) and the bus expensive.
Catch the 2-hour bus from Puerto Natales leaving at 7.30 am or 2.30 pm (JBA has the cheapest rates) to the Visitors Centre/Administration at Laguna Amarga.
W Trek: Think of this trip not as a true W but as three valleys running north/south into the mountain massif. Two horizontal sections connect the three. Arrive the day before and stay at Las Torres for two nights (Refugio Las Torres Norte, Refugio Las Torres Central, Las Torres Servicio Camp Site, Eco Camp or Hosteria Las Torres).
Day 1. Get an early start for the best light.
Las Torres to Campamento Torres (9 kilometres, 3.5 hours): The first 2.5 km is steep.
Campamento Torres to Mirador Torres (45 minutes – 1 hour) is a steep rocky ascent. The Mirador is at the base of a beautiful milky green tarn with views of the three towers. The highest mountain of the group is Paine Grande at 2,884 m (9,462 ft). Return to Las Torres for the night.
Day 2. Hike west along the north side of Lago Nordenskjold to Los Cuernos (11 km, 4.5-5 hours) to sleep at one of Refugio Cuernos, Cabanas Cuernos or Campsite Cuernos.
If camping, one could continue to Campsite Italiano at the base of the French Valley.
Day 3. From Los Cuernos, hike to Campsite Italiano (5.5 km, 2.5 hours) and ascend to Mirador Britanico (7.5 km one way) at the end of the trail (Campsite Britanico). The French Valley has at its head a cirque formed by impressive cliffs. The colossal walls of Cerro Cota (2000m) and Cerro Catedral punctuate the western side of the Valley. To the north stands the granite arête called the Shark’s Fin. To the east, from north to south, are the Fortress, The Sword, The Blade, the Mummer, the North Horn, and the Main Horn. Descend to Campsite Italiano for the night.
Day 4. Hike west to Paine Grande on the NW corner of Lago Pehoe (7.5 km, 2.5 hours) to stay at Refugio Paine Grande, Paine Grand Domes, or Paine Grande Servicio Camp Site. Continue north along the east side of Lago Grey to the viewpoint for the Grey Glacier (11 km, 3.5 hours). Refugio Grey, Grey Servicio Camp Site or Campamento las Guardass are one-half hour before the viewpoint. The 15 km long Grey Glacier is the largest in the park and is divided into two arms by an island of rock called a Nunatak. The eastern arm is 1.2 km wide and the western arm is about 3.6 km wide.
Day 5. Return on the same trail to Paine Grande, take the Catamaran across Lago Pehoe to Pudeto (Refugio Pudeto) and catch the bus back to Puerto Natales.
2. Circuit. Doing the Circuit gives you bragging rights, solitude and some stellar views not on the W. The Circuit is composed of the ‘W,’ plus the backside between Refugio Lago Grey and Refugio Los Torres. There are no refugios along this stretch and camping is basic. You’ll need foul-weather camping and trekking gear, as mud (sometimes knee-deep), snow and wind are inevitable. Trekking alone is inadvisable (and restricted by Conaf). The Circuit is closed during winter.
Day 1. Refugio Lago Grey to Campamento Paso takes four hours from Campamento Guardas to Paso, about two hours going the opposite way. Hiking west to east means ascending the pass rather than slipping downhill.
Day 2. From Campamento Paso to Camping Los Perros – four hours. This route has plenty of mud and sometimes snow. Camping Los Perros to Dickson – 4½ hours, and relatively easy but windy.
Day 3. Camping Dickson to Seron – six hours. As the trail wraps around Lago Paine, winds can be fierce and the trails vague. It’s possible to break trek at Campamento Coirón.
Day 4. Camping Seron to Laguna Amarga – four to five hours.
3. Descending the Serrano River. Once you have finished Torres del Paine National Park, it is possible to return to Puerto Natales by an uncommon route – descend the Serrano River in a sea kayak or raft over 2 days/1 night. The start has views of Chacabuco Cordillera and Balmaceda Mountain. At Serrano Waterfall is a 200-meter portage around the waterfall. Camp at Pekin Guerrero’s Estancia with views of the Tyndal Glacier. From the ranch, walk to the Geike Glacier, a spectacular high-altitude lake full of ice. Back in the kayaks, continue to Puerto Toro where two national parks abut each other. A little trek gives views of the Serrano Glacier. Board the ferry to cross the Última Esperanza Fjord. If the weather allows, there are spectacular views of the Paine massif.
TIERRA DEL FUEGO
Tierra del Fuego, the Land of Fire, is an island divided between Chile and Argentina at the southern tip of South America. Ushuaia, on the south coast overlooks the Beagle Channel, and is the base for all the best hiking. It bills itself as la Ciudad del Fin del Mundo – the City at the End of the World. There is nothing below this windswept place but 650 miles of treacherous southern seas and the icy continent of Antarctica.
Parque Nacional de Tierra del Fuego, 12 km west of Ushuaia, is the southernmost tip of South America. Rich in forests, lakes and jagged mountains, it is a beautiful but tough landscape, tormented by unpredictable weather.
Laguna Esmeralda. This full-day hike starts at the Altos del Valle ski resort and ascends to the beautiful Laguna Esmeralda. If you are up for a true trekking challenge, continue past the lake, to where the vegetation ends, and the Glacier Albino begins.
Sendero de Lucas Bridges. An excellent trek between the two great estancias in Tierra del Fuego, The Haverton and the Via Monte Estancias. You can stay at the estancias at the start and end, while you camp during the hike.
Andorra Valley and Laguna del Caminante. This three-day trek shows you the highlights of the Tierra del Fuego mountain range and is packed with awesome views of Beagle Channel and the famous Darwin Range. Easy to moderate hiking takes you to beautiful places on this overview hike. Camp.
Bahia Lapataia. A 3-hour, 9.6 km coastal walk between two beautiful bays on the southern shore of the Land of Fire. This hike has no elevation change to follow the Senda Costera – Coastal Path – from Bahia Ensenada to Bahia Lapataia, with beautiful views over the Beagle Channel. An entrance fee is charged from November through March. The main road, Ruta 3, runs through the National Park. Minibuses or tour company transports run regularly between the Park and Ushuaia in the summer. You won’t have to worry
Trail. From the Park entrance gate, continue on the main road for about 2.5 km to the crossroads, just past the terminus of the tourist railway, Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino. From the crossroads on Park Road, head down the unpaved road for about 1 mile/1.6 km. This will take you to the shore of Bahia Ensenada, and a view of rocky Isla Redonda. The trail hugs the shoreline, alternating between forest and beach. The trail is defined and marked with red blazes, there are no signs and it can be hard to follow. After about 2 miles/3.2 km, you emerge at a beach directly opposite the end of Lapataia peninsula, with excellent views across the channel to Isla Navarino. A smaller cove, then a short climb, is followed by a longer stretch through the forest – total 2.7 km. The trail emerges at a pebble beach. Walk along the beach for 5 minutes and look for a path heading back into the forest. Come to another beach, where you cross a hillside to the final beach on the Coastal Path. Veer right (north) and climb through the forest to reach the Park road, and the end of the hike, in about 1 km. Flag down a minibus back to Ushuaia.
For more exploring turn left (west) along the road for about 1.6 km, where it divides. Right takes you north to Lago Roca and a trail along the lakeshore; left to Laguna Verde and the head of the bay, where there are short trails. Recommended is the Paseo de Mirador, a short walk to a beautiful lookout over Bahia Lapataia.
FITZROY Argentina
To complement any trip on the Chilean side of Patagonia there is “Los Glaciares National Park” in Argentina. Los Glaciares is one of the most scenically impressive national parks in South America. This vast reserve protects 2300 square miles of the Patagonian Andes, including over 40 major glaciers. The northern section of the park is dominated by the incredible, world-famous Fitzroy Massif, with its sheer, 6000-foot rise from the glaciers at its base.
Numerous spectacular mountains rise above the immense Lago Viedma, including Fitzroy 3405m (11,072 ), and Cerro Torre 3128m (10,280 ). The latter is such a steep and difficult granite needle that its summit was not climbed until 1974. The southern section is one of the world’s glacier wonderlands (40 percent of the park is covered by glaciers). About a dozen glaciers flow east to feed two huge lakes, Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino, and there are another 190 glaciers not connected to the park’s giant South Patagonia Icefield.
Fitz Roy is at the northern tip of gorgeous Parque Nacional Los Glaciers, itself part of Hielo Sur, the largest icecap not in a polar region. The history of these impossible spires adds a special flavour. It’s named after Cpt Fitzroy, skipper of Charles Darwin’s Beagle. Fitz Roy is one of the most famously difficult mountaineering destinations in the world.
The jagged mountains of Paine are surreal — but Fitzroy is even more stunning. Hikes here are slightly easier than Paine and more suitable to all levels of ability and experience. It’s easier to hike independently in Fitz Roy, there is no need to filter water, and no risk of altitude sickness, Argentina is less expensive than Chile, and most hikers like El Calafate better than Puerto Natales.
The biggest concern for hikers is wind. It can blow steady from November to April. Fitz Roy is colder than Paine as the huge Hielo Sur ice sheet diminishes the maritime influence. At El Chalten the February low maximum 5°C plus wind chill and a high maximum of 22C (72F). If you are not there in February, it will be colder again. Plan for horrible weather: rain, sleet, hail and snow. Hypothermia is a risk. You need a strong tent & good tie-downs to survive the wind & weather plus a stove as fires are prohibited. Most hike independently and few are guided. November to April are the best months. January & early February first-come, first-served campsites are crowded, but not as much as Paine. The days are long in Patagonia during the summer — it is light until at least 10 pm. The only hiking allowed in Parque Nacional Los Glaciers is around Fitzroy.
Head for the bustling tourist town of El Calafate, Argentina. Many hikers fly or bus there from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Some hikers fly to Chile first to hike Paine, then bus to El Calafate. It is normally easy to cross the Chile – Argentina border. From El Calafate, you need to schedule a full extra day to visit the must-see Moreno Glacier. From El Calafate you can bus 4.5 hours to the Fitzroy trailhead town of El Chaltén, entering the national park (free entrance) en route. No reservation, trekking fee or permit is required. It is easy to day hike out of a hostel or hotel in El Calafate. Accommodation & restaurants are surprisingly good in tiny El Chalten. It is no hardship to relax there, waiting for the winds to drop. There is even a free campground on the edge of town.
Argentina has good value if you are holding foreign currency. It is far cheaper than Chile.
The welcome and information provided at the National Park visitor centre (Parque Nacional Los Glaciers) in El Chaltén is terrific. It’s the best park office in South America.
Around Fitzroy trek is 38km plus side trips. Recommend 4-5 days, 3-4 nights minimum. Instead of hiking directly into the park, start by hiring a ride up Route 23 and get dropped off at the trailhead and hike to Refugio Troncos (NW of Laguna Piedras Blancas) to camp, where you can day hike to the Cerro Electrico Lookout. From Refugio Troncos, start the trail and take the short side trip to Laguna Piedras Blancas, before camping at Campamento Poincenot and take in a front stage view of Mount Fitzroy.
It’s worth getting up before dawn to climb to Lagos de los Tres for sunrise. Come back for breakfast/lunch and head down the trail to Laguna Sucia. The private walk along the riverbank is a more heavily travelled path to Lagos de los Tres. Few venture down it and its wonderful view from Laguna Sucia.
Hike to Campamento De Agostini along Laguna Madre and Laguna Hija. These lakes make a great backdrop for your last close-up views of Mount Fitzroy and can make for a refreshing swim. Once past the lakes, you’ll snake through a yellow wildflower-laden forest before getting views of Cerro Torre. Once again get up for the sunrise, as it’s the best view of Cerro Torre and then head back to El Chalten.
The standard route has tents at Agostini, Poincenot & Refugio Los Troncos (which sells snacks & meals). An extra day is helpful in case of weather or to add some side trips. Extreme hikers could (carefully) consider the Ice-cap Circuit variation described in “The Andes, A Trekking Guide.”
Laguna de los Tres. An easy 8-hour round trip from the town. There are outstanding views of the Fitz Roy range along the way. The trail ends at the cobalt-blue Laguna de los Tres, at the base of Cerro Fitz Roy. The last 1.5 kilometres of this hike are very steep and exposed, and some hikers choose to overnight at the nearby Campamento Poincenot before the last difficult stretch. A 500-meter, well-marked additional trail winds around to the left of Laguna de los Tres and leads to a spectacular, cliffside overview of Laguna Sucia, some 200 meters below Laguna de los Tres. A good alternative route is to start at Hosteria El Pilar and hike back to El Cheltan, stopping at Laguna de los Tres mid-way.
Laguna Torre. 6 hours easy round trip that leads to a lake at the base of the dramatic Cerro Torre, which, although only 3100 meters tall, was not summited until 1975, a generation after all the 8000-meter+ Himalayan peaks had been conquered. Cerro Torre’s near vertical walls and a permanent, unstable ice veneer at its summit defeated all earlier attempts. Backpackers can combine the Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre treks using connecting side trails that create a loop. An optional side continuation to Dagostini leads closer to the glacier near Laguna Torre.
The Condor Mirador and Eagle Miradors are easy climbs (two hours at most combined) behind the National Park office. Great views of the town, and the Fitzroy range and of course Condors.
A boat trip can be combined with a glacier trek on the Lago Viedma and the adjacent Glacier Viedma.
Horse riding with a gaucho guide along some of the major walking trails is possible.
VENEZUELA
ANGEL FALLS
I flew 1 hour to Puerto Ordaz on the border of Guyana and then bussed 1 ½ hours to Ciudad Bolivar staying at Gekko Tours who organized both my trips. Then fly in a slow tiny Cessna 172, 1 ½ hours south to air access Canaima (pop 1,200). It is a cute town with dirt streets on the edge of a big lagoon with big waterfalls.
A boat on the lagoon gives close-ups of the 6 waterfalls, a mini version of Iguazu. Walk on top over some dry riverbeds, swim in beautiful pools, and then come down to walk behind the biggest waterfall – 80 m on a rock walkway under a large overhang. This was an amazing experience as the falls were huge with lots of spray.
The next day we drove to above the falls and boarded a long narrow dugout canoe for the 5-hour river trip to a camp near Angel Falls, the highest waterfall in the world at 979 metres. As it was still dry season, the coca-cola coloured water in the river was low and the skill of the boat driver negotiating all the rapids was very special. Through the jungle, the riverbank was full of cobble beaches.
The landscape must be one of the most spectacular on earth as we travelled around huge mesa-like tablelands called tepui with 600-900 m high vertical cliffs and a few waterfalls. The yellow/pink sandstone is 2 billion years old and through water erosion forms these huge individual mesas with their massive cliffs. There are 100 tepuis across Venezuela and most are in the east.
Taking a smaller tributary, the river became progressively narrower, and the rapids more frequent. One area had huge boulders in the river. After arriving at the jungle camp, we immediately hiked 45 minutes up to the base of the falls. Falling from the edge of the tepui, the water hits terminal velocity ⅓ of the way down and is mist the rest of the way.
We swam in a pool under a lower waterfall. Sleeping in hammocks, it rained all night and the falls were invisible in the cloud the next morning. The river was now at least a metre deeper and the trip was a high-speed ride taking only 3 hours back (including an hour hike around rapids on the way up). I then flew back to Ciudad Bolivar in a Cessna 184 and then took a 12-hour bus south to Santa Elena to access Roraima.
RORAIMA
After a day off in Santa Elena (pop 18,500), we drove 2 hours NE via San Francisco to Paraitepui to start the 6-day trek up Roraima, the only tepui easily climbed.
We had a great group of strong walkers.
Day 1 and 2. After hiking for 3 ½ to 4 hours per day for 2 days we arrived at the base camp under the huge 600 m sandstone cliff. It rains daily, and the cheap umbrella I bought in Santa Elena was a godsend.
Day 3. Climb about 900 m up the steep trail, walking through 2 waterfalls, to reach the top of the tepui.
It is a surreal moonscape – the normally pink to yellow sandstone was deep black from a coating of cyanobacteria. Rudimentary walking routes wear off the black coating exposing the pink of the ancient heavily eroded sandstone. It is an amazing landscape with few distinctive landmarks, easy to get lost and the guides were indispensable. There are buttes, creeks, marshes, small lakes, pink ‘beaches’ and low plants (some endemic to the top of Roraima and some carnivorous). Beds of crystals are everywhere but packs are checked on the way out to make sure none are taken.
The only animals besides a few birds are tiny black frogs with orange bellies (similar to ones in Africa and presumed related dating 150 million years to Gondwana when all the continents were joined). The weather changes fast to clouds, mist, heavy rain, wind, cold, and bright sunshine in an hour.
We camped for 2 nights in one of the ‘hotels’, areas under big overhangs that offer protection from the frequent rain.
Day 4 Hike to the eastern top to have spectacular, though brief views for hundreds of miles into the jungle of western Guyana. The Window is a huge sandstone boulder tipped to give views straight down the cliff, the Jacuzzi (pretty pools lined with quartz crystals where many swim) and sitting on the edge of the 600 m vertiginous cliff. On the second day on top, trips normally go 9 km out to Triple Point, where Guyana, Brazil and Venezuela meet. On the way are Crystal Valley and the Pit, a large sinkhole. The guides are not keen to do it if the weather is not good and we are in the clouds and rain. Instead, we went to a great sandstone cave with a running stream. Down several hundred metres, with headlights off and the rushing water, it was a very meditative experience in the pitch black.
Day 5 was the steep descent of about 6000 vertical feet down the cliff, past base camp to our campsite on the first night.
Day 6 was a long 3 ½ hour trek in the rain through a hilly country with many creek crossings. The clay-based soil was slick and most everybody fell once. A few pounds of clay weighed down each shoe. This trail was best described as “sticks like glue, slides like snot.”
After 2 days in Santa Elena to allow my quads to recover from the big descent, I caught a night bus back to Puerto Ordaz, a 10 am flight to Caracas and then the afternoon flight to Miami for an overnight. Then Dallas and Vancouver.