PERU – LIMA

PERU – CENTRAL COAST (Lima, Callao)

Day 11 Sun Mar 10
I arrived at the Huancayo bus station at 20:30.
ON Camelitas Express Bus Huancayo to Lima @ 21:30-06:00 +1. Sleeper seat. 70PEN.
Supposedly a 10-hour trip, it turned into 18. At about 3:30 am, on the 4848 m high pass at Ticlio, we were stopped by about 4″ of snow. No one moved until it all melted. It was -4°C. We were first in a line that stretched back for hundreds of cars and buses. A backhoe arrived that I assumed plowed the snow. We finally started moving at 9 am and arrived in Lima at 14: 30. 

Day 12 Monday Mar 10
LIMA
ON Quinoa Backpackers. With great ratings, this family-run hostel was fairly close to the old city.

Day 13 Tue Mar 11
A big walkabout day in the central district of Lima.
Casa Museo José Carlos Mariátegui (1894-1930) was a writer, journalist, politician and Marxist philosopher. A prolific author despite his early death, “master”, a name by which he is also known in his country) He is considered one of the greatest scholars of Latin American reality. His synthesis is 7 essays on the interpretation of Peruvian reality (1928), a reference work for the continent’s intellectuals.
He was the founder in 1928 of the Peruvian Socialist Party (which, after his death, would split into the Socialist Party of Peru and the Peruvian Communist Party ), and in 1929 of the General Confederation of Workers of Peru. Mariátegui is “undoubtedly the most vigorous and original Marxist thinker that Latin America has ever known.
There are a few of his personal artifacts (some desks), but everything was in Spanish. A small side gallery had the work of Jaime Colaen, which were quite nice. Free
Lima Metropolitan Museum. All that is offered here is an hour-long video showing the history of Lima, but only in Spanish. 10PEN
Monumento Quiñones (Monumento al Heroe Nacional (FAP) Jose Abelardo Quinones Gonzalez). Monument, built and inaugurated in July 1991 in honor of the Peruvian National Hero and Grand General of the Peruvian Air Force, Captain FAP José Abelardo Quiñones Gonzáles.

Lima Art Museum. A large museum with the best parts showing Pre-Colombian art, a good video on the Nasca Lines. I didn’t enjoy the large section on religious art. 40PEN, reduced free.
Palace of Justice. Another grand building with columns. Can’t be visited.
Museum of Italian Art. Has two great mosaics on the facade. The collections are modern sculpture and paintings. 3PEN reduced
Pinacoteca Municipal Ignacio Merino. I only saw the bottom floor as it was lunch and the ticket woman was at lunch. Mostly religious art, an exhibit by Adolfo Winteretz. Free
Andrés Del Castillo Museum. A museum of minerals, it has a huge collection of crystals. My favourite is pyrite, often combined with quartz. The building (La Casa Belen) is gorgeous. Also exhibits on textiles, and some modern art. 15PEN reduced. 
Jose de San Martin Monument. The founder of Peru at independence in 1821. This is a large equestrian sculpture on a large stone/marble plinth in the middle of a park.
Grand Hotel Bolivar. Founded in 1924, it has a grand stained glass dome in the lobby. Visited by many famous people, including Mick Jaggar and Keith Richards in 1969. Hospitality Legends
Bar Zela. A small restaurant (two floors with not many tables) founded in 1852. Hospitality Legends
On my walk to the culture museum, I walked through the red-light district busy on a Tuesday afternoon. A pedestrian was hit by a car, and it was interesting how poorly they protected his neck when transferring him onto a stretcher. 
National Museum of Peruvian Culture. It has an eclectic collection of pre-Colombian pottery, the Last Supper, textiles, polychromes, silver, gourd art (mostly from Ayacucho), an Altay retablo, and pop art. The facade is a replica of Inca stonework. 3PEN reduced.

HISTORIC CENTRE OF LIMA WHS
Plaza de Armas and the San Francisco Convent are the main attractions, and the library at Santo Domingo is impressive, as well as Palacio de Torre Tagle or Casa de Aliaga, which are not without interest. Plaza San Martin, centered around a statue of its eponymous hero on horseback, and the Iglesia de La Merced, with its neat baroque facade. The balconies (often large enclosed wood structures) throughout the historic center are the main visual highlights. The Mestizo Baroque church portal at La Merced rivals that of San Francisco. Plus, there is a Modernist façade or two and plenty of splashes of color everywhere, as is common in colonial architecture.

Las Nazarenas Church. A single nave church with grand wood doors, side chapels and an altar with blue columns. and the best Ways of the Cross in the world (a 10-meter-long diorama).
Santa Rosa Basilica. It was demolished in 1718 after an earthquake and again in the 1960s to widen Tacna Avenue. There is a huge rose garden out front. The church could not be entered except a small side chapel with a wood besn ceiling that may have been from the original church but the museum (2PEN) was interesting. It detailed the life of Saint Rose (carried her own cross when visiting the Ways of the Cross, wore a celice on her head to replicate the pain of the Crown of Thorns, and tied her hair to a nail so she wouldn’t fall asleep when praying. 
Santo Domingo Church and Convent. A three-nave church with statues in the dome and an elaborate vaulted arch ceiling. A channel and well from the original drinking water system of Lima were interesting. Museum 15PEN 7 reduced
House of Peruvian Gastronomy is a small museum, tracing the history of Peruvian cuisine from pre-Incan days to the modern. 5PEN
Government Palace. Occupying an entire block, this is the same as the Presidential Palace. It can’t be entered.
Presidential Palace. the residence of Peru’s president, features daily Changing of the Guard ceremonies. At least 6 guards stand at attention for hours – dressed in OTT uniforms of black boots, blue pants, red top with blue epaulets and a red hat.
Casa de Aliaga is a colonial-style building located on the river. The building was allegedly built on a huaca (ancient ruin ). The building dates back to May 1536, at the beginning of the city’s founding. and destroyed by the 1746 Lima earthquake. It was rebuilt and then renovated in the  19th century. The original construction was made of thatched roofs and adobe. The architecture is eclectic in style due to several changes made since its construction. The styles present are Renaissance, Mannerist, Baroque, and Neoclassical . ^2 ​It has 18 rooms and furnishings from the period. There are many shops on the bottom floor and couldn’t be visited.

Puente de Piedra (Puente de Trujillo). A pedestrian bridge (with 2 lanes of pavement in the middle) over the Rimac River, a raging torrent when I was there. It has a wrought iron railing and lamp posts.
Plaza de Armas (Lima Main Square). The main square in downtown Lima is a large area of grass and hedges surrounded by palm trees. The cathedral is on the square.
Our Lady of Mercy. A huge triple nave church dating to 1535. Baroque adobe & brick facade.

Archbishop Palace. Attached to the cathedral, it has lovely enclosed wood balconies. It can’t be entered.
Lima Cathedral. A triple nave church with many side chapels, many with elaborate wood columns. 30PEN
Bar Cordano. Established in 1905, the main area has 13 small tables and two side rooms. It is known for its delicious butefarras. Hospitality Legends,
House of Peruvian Literature. In the old train station, it has a timeline of Peruvian literature from 1250 BC to 2010. Lovely tile floors. Only in Spanish. Free 
San Francisco Church. Originally built in 1673 and damaged in the earthquakes of 1656 and 1746, the most spectacular chapel is completely silver. It was completely rebuilt in 1871 to its present shape with two large square bell towers. When I was there, a choir composed of monks was singing. 
Legislative Palace. A two-story limestone building with the label Congreso. It can’t be visited.
Museum of the Inquisition. Temporary closed. (Religious and Sacred Art Museum)
Palacio de Torre Tagle is a building built during the viceregal era of Peru (completed in 1735) that currently serves as the offices of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Peru and can’t be visited. The materials used in the construction of the Torre Tagle Palace were brought from Spain, Panama, and other Central American countries. The façade is in the Andalusian Baroque style and features carved stone porticos and arches, as well as two artistic Moorish balconies made of cedar and mahogany.
Central Reserve Bank of Peru Museum. All things currency from Pre-Columbia to the present day. Free
ON Quinoa Backpackers for the second night. 

Day 14 Wed Mar 12
Another day to see sites near Liima, some walking, Ubers and many buses.
Museo Olímpico del Deporte Peruano. It is uncertain if this exists as there are no signs outside. It is across the street from my hostel and part of the national stadium. 
Jardín Botánico de Plantas Medicinales. Part of a hospital complex, it is a disappointing collection of single plants in an area of grass and trees. Free
Museum of Natural History. Hundreds of stuffed animals, fish, reptiles, amphibians, and birds, all of Peruvian origin. The signs are only in Spanish. Has some great fossils. 10PEN free reduced.
Museo Aeronáutico del Perú. An eclectic collection of model planes, uniforms, biographies of famous Peruvian pilots, medals. The stained glass was more interesting. Guided by a woman in the military. 10PEN
I then took an Uber to the theatre.
Gran Teatro Nacional. A modern brutalist building of grey concrete and black windows. It couldn’t be entered. Architectural Delights
Trying to figure out the buses to the gold museum was impossible, so I took another Uber.
Gold Museum of Peru and Weapons of the World. A completely OTT weapons collection with hundreds of revolvers in the original cases, stirrups, spurs, saddles, canes, on and on. The guy was an obsessive collector.
The gold portion in the basement was likewise OTT but with some impressive pins, axes, pots, crosses, and jewelry. Most were from the Lambayaque culture (700-1350). 30PEN
I then took several buses (1-2PEN) to Miraflores. 

MIRAFLORES
Miraflores is a very upscale part of Lima. It is easy to navigate everywhere by bus. 
Miraflores Indian Market. There were several artisanal markets here – Purusian market and others with much the same stuff, of little interest to me. There ware few visitors and vendors constantly invited me into their stores.
Inca Market. Mush smaller but with the same artisanal products.
Casa Museo Ricardo Palma. Small house museum featuring photos, documents & objects related to famed writer Ricardo Palma (1833-1919) was a Peruvian romantic, costumbrista, traditionalist writer, journalist and politician, famous mainly for his short stories of historical fiction collected in the book Peruvian Traditions. He cultivated practically all genres: poetry, novels, drama, satire, criticism, chronicles and essays. In 1883, he was appointed director of the National Library. His selfless work in rebuilding the institution (he requested books from different countries) earned him the nickname “the Beggar Librarian”. In 1892, he represented Peru at the fourth centenary of the Discovery of America in Europe. 5PEN
Universidad de Ingeniería y Tecnología (UTEC). A modern brutalist building of reinforced concrete with several balconies with plants and trees. Architectural Delights
Contemporary Art Museum of Lima. I usually don’t like Westerh contemporary art museums, but this was lovely – great art, photography and a wall of newspaper articles from WWII. Some interesting large installations (a hammock made from rubber tires with the tires on the ground). 20PEN
Jade Rivera Museum. A one-man museum showcasing his colourful murals, oil paintings, sculpture and a huge range of art. 15PEN, 10 reduced
Christ of the Pacific (Cristo Del Pacífico) is a 37-metre-high (121 ft) statue of Jesus erected as a gift from a consortium of Brazilian companies. At 37 metres (121 feet), including its pedestal, and 22 m (72 ft) without, the statue is smaller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, which measures 39.6 m (130 ft), 30 m (98 ft) without its pedestal.
Pedro de Osma Museum. In a great white mansion, the art was all religious and not of much interest. The mansion with its inlaid hardwood floors and stained glass was of more interest. A back sunhouse had family portraits. The father (1868-1936), a mayor of Barranco and Lima, a member of Congress) and Pedro (1901-1967) were in the mining industry and were great collectors. The Silver Hall had a large numistic collection of gold coins and rich silver household goods. 30PEN

BARRANCO
The town is next to the ocean side of Miraflores.
La Ermita de Barranco. This church’s roof is completely deteriorated. The church is in the process of renovation and can’t be visited inside. 
Miraflores Beaches (Lima Lima and Lima Barranca). This huge beach is deep with golden sand and a light surf on the day I was there. There are many breakwaters and one large boardwalk. It is a long walk down and back as it is well below the town. Many surfers. It is very popular at sunset.
I took the Express bus all the way home (3.2PEN).
ON Quinoa Backpackers for the third night.

Day 15 Thur Mar 13
I took the express bus again to Barranco and then several local buses and a few collectivas to see more of Miraflores along the ocean, ending in Callao.
I walked along the sidewalk for several kilometres – great views down to the ocean and lined with expensive hotels and highrise apartment buildings.
Miraflores Boardwalk. This is the malecon that runs along the top of the cliffs with views down to the beach. Urban Legends.
Larcomar Shopping Mall. This 3-story mall is built on the side of the cliff below the malecon. The several restaurants have a great view down to the beach and ocean.
El Baso. A man and a woman kissing. She is lying down, and he is sitting. Painted light orange. The walls around the main sculpture have lovely mosaics reminiscent of Parque Gulle in Barcelona
Faro La Marina. Sitting on top of the cliff above the beach, it has a stone base and a round tower painted black/white. It is surrounded by busts of many Peruvian naval heroes. Amano Pre-Colombian Textile Museum. A well curated and sophisticated museum with a history of textile production and many good examples. Also a large selection of pottery. 40PEN, 30 reduced

CALLAO
Fortaleza del Real Felipe. A huge stone fort with several modern army buildings inside. Walk the perimeter of the fort. Several canons. 2PEN
Abtao Submarine. Museo Abtao del Callao. Originally built in the 1950s, this docked Sierra-class submarine now serves as a museum. 20PEN
Naval Museum of Peru. The usual ship models, a large collection of iron balls and other shells, uniforms, history of wars (War of the Pacific). Free (I arrived just before closing and wasn’t charged.
I was able to get back to the express bus using only one collectivo and one bus all costing only 3PEN. 
ON Quinoa Backpackers for the fourth night.

Day 16 Fri Mar 14
I left the hostel at 5 am and walked about 20 minutes to the Instabus terminal. 

SACRED CITY of CARAL-SUPE WHS. 5000-year-old 626-hectare archaeological site on a dry desert terrace overlooking the green valley of the Supe River. It is the oldest centre of civilization in the Americas. Exceptionally well-preserved – monumental stone and earthen platform mounts and sunken circular courts. One of 18 urban settlements situated in the same area, six large pyramidal structures. A quipu (the knot system used in Andean civilizations to record information) found on the site testifies to the development and complexity of Caral society.
The Amphitheater had remains of musical instruments (flutes). The site could be visited independently with bilingual interpretation panels but the guide is mandatory.. Only beige stone pyramids remain.
The Amphitheater Temple is the most remarkable building, with a large, sunken circular plaza. The Huanca Pyramid and Gallery Pyramid are beautiful square-shaped stepped pyramids. The Greater Pyramid is the largest, 170 x 150 metres, the low profile makes it look not that impressive. In front of the stepped pyramid is a sunken circular plaza with a diameter of 37 metres. All the bottoms of the pyramids have been reconstructed.
After visiting Caral, Vichama became the center of the Caral culture around 1800 BC, when Caral itself declined. On the way back to Lima along the coast, it has relief figures of humans on an interior layer of one of the temples. Google Maps goes to the backside of the site- a large sandy hill. Search for “Centro de Visitantes Vichama”.
My Experience.
Bus: Lima to Supe. Instabus @06:15-10:05. 30PEN. One block down from the Instabus office in Supe, get a collectivo 10PEN to Caral, 23 km each way. The Supe River valley is an agricultural breadbasket – sugar cane, potatoes, corn, avocado and more – all made possible by irrigation.
He dropped me off at the bridge that is the normal entry. Walk across the bridge (Supe River) and either walk the 2 km on the rough road or get a small “taxi” (5PEN each way) to the actual site.
At the site are several good storyboards. Pay the entry of 11PEN. It is mandatory to have the free guide. He followed the shorter “wheelchair” route, seeing the above. I don’t speak Spanish, but I can understand some. Caral never had pottery or any metals. The story boards at each main attraction are in English and have good information. Flutes were found to be made of pelican bones (a short piece of bone with one hole in the middle) that produced a surprisingly loud, bright sound.
Back at the bridge, a man who controls the parking lot phoned, and the collectivo arrived quickly to take me back to Supe. Bus back to Lima: Instabus @16:10-21:00 with terrible traffic in north Lima. 
I walked the 20 minutes back to my hostel.
ON Quinoa Backpackers for the 4th night.

Day 17 Sat Mar 15
Another walkabout day in Lima. I started at 09:30, and it took me 50 minutes to walk to the first museum. 
Marina Núñez Del Prado Museum. Del Prado (1910-1995) is one of Peru’s most well-known sculptors. Her style is abstract figures (women, bulls, faces) using a wide variety of materials – bronze, wood, granite, basalt and the most spectacular, onyx. Free
Huaca Pucllana. A huge reconstructed pyramid (covered with adobe blocks), that must be seen with a guided tour. See the making of the adobe bricks, plants, and animals, and work your way to the top to see the ceremonial sites of the original people and burial crypts of the Wari people. A small museum can be visited. 10PEN, 7.5 reduced
I took the correct bus to get to the shopping mall. 
Real Plaza Salaverry. A huge modern shopping centre with 9 levels. I had a Starbucks frappuccino. 
National Museum of Archaeology. A lovely museum with good pre-Colombian pots and a history of the start of the nation profiling San Martin and Bolivar (many portraits). Free
Complejo Arqueologico Mateo Salado. Another huge pyramid that can be climbed to the top. 10PEN, 5 reduced
Larco Museum. A big, sophisticated private museum showcasing 5,000 years of Peruvian pre-Columbian history. It is well known for its gallery of pre-Columbian erotic pottery. The buildings, garden and restaurant are covered in flowering vines and a succulent garden. 40PEN, 30 reduced
Plaza San Miguel. Another large shopping mall. I went to a Triathlon store to find some new hiking pants, but they had none, mostly runners and other athletic stuff.
I needed a Waterpik powered by 220 volts so I took several buses and walked to the central historical district and bought one. I then had a lomo saltado and chips and walked about 2.4 km home. 

Day 18 Sun Mar 16
I showered and packed my bags for the 11:00 checkout. I walked about 1.5 km to Bario Chino, my last site easily seen in Lima.
Barrio Chino is a neighborhood in Lima, Peru, that is centered on two blocks – 7 and 8 – of Jirón Ucayali in downtown. The neighborhood was founded in the mid-19th century by Chinese immigrants, but it was heavily damaged in the late 19th century by the War of the Pacific and further declined in the following decades.
I hung around the hostel till the evening and took an Uber to the airport. 
Flight. Lima to Santa Cruz, Bolivia. Air Boliviano @01:00-06:50.

GO TO BOLIVIA, SANTA CRUZ

Tentative WHS
Guano Islands, Islets, and Capes National Reserve System form Peru (RNSIIPG)
Peruvian Central Railway
The Coastal Lomas System of Peru
Wineries and Vineyards for traditional Pisco Production